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Found 461 results

  1. Okay the engine starts fine when cold. The engine starts fine when up to temp and restarting within 5 minutes of shutting it off. If the car sits for 15 minutes to 45 minutes, the engine will fire and then drop down in rpms almost stalling or it will just stall. If I give it a bit of gas when the engine fires and keep the rpms up for 30 seconds the engine will stay running. The car has had a complete tune up, new fuel pump, gas tank, fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure is good and steady. The intake gaskets and plenium have been replaced. TPS , MAP, MAF, Crank and Cam sensors have all been replaced. All vacuum lines have been replaced. No codes are being thrown. Anyone have any ideas?
  2. Need a new coolant tank, or a way to clean the one I have. Can find new tanks for older model Cutlass and later model Cutlass, but I can not find a new one for a 92 Cutlass Supreme. All I can find is tank caps. It's so dirty and stained, that I can only see the coolant level on the full hot mark. Is it worth even trying to clean it, and what is the best way to do it? If it can be cleaned, I will for dang sure put work into it to save a dollar. Edit: Should have put this topic in General I think.
  3. I needed a new battery for a 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass with the 3.4 L engine. the "book" called for a group size 78 battery. The battery is 10 3/16" long, and fits in the tray, but there doesn't seem to be enough room for the windshield washer fluid container, which fits over the battery. I cannot seem to wedge the washer fluid container into position. The previous owner had a smaller battery in the car, probably a group 75, which is 9 1/16" long, and I was able to get the washer fluid container in the car with no problems using that battery. Was I spoiled by the smaller battery, and gave up to easily when the washer fluid tank wouldn't go back in place with the bigger battery? Are you supposed to "work the washer container" a bit to get it in place, or is a group size 78 battery too big for this space?
  4. I parked a 1995 Cutlass with the 3.4 dohc in November 2012 with a full tank of gas, and also added Stabil to the tank. It's a convertible that I park (unheated garage) to keep out of the winter salt. It ended up sitting longer than I had planned. In a couple of months it's going to come out of storage. I'm hoping the Stablil bought me some time as far as the gas going stale, and that I can just start driving the car, burn down some of the old gas in the tank, and dilute the remaining old gas with fresh gas. Does anyone have any experience they can share about putting a vehicle that has not been driven for a couple of years back in service?
  5. Basics- 96 Lumina 109k, 3100. Car has all new fuel lines, AC Delco fuel pump, fuel pump relay, new gas tank and new filler neck. I intermittently get this P1441 code when the car is cold and driven past 20 mph. It comes and goes as it pleases. I've done some research online but I'm not sure where to go in terms of diagnosis. Also- unsure if this is related. I am having a hard start issue once the car is up to operating temperature. When the car is cold, I have no issue at all. Would like to straighten this out if possible. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
  6. I got a 99 lumina 3.1 with a evap leak code.I have replaced purge solenoid,gas cap,filler neck, canister purge vent in that order and code keeps triggering. Code is getting triggered after I burn past 1/4 tank from stenting drive cycle but will not complete room I get the error. Have check over all hoses and not seeing any cracks. Any help would be helpful.
  7. Hi, I am helping a friend fix her 1991 Cutlass Supreme. The supply and return fuel lines that go from the fuel tank to the filter and to the return line need to be replaced. The GM part numbers for these lines are 10062888 and 10062887. These parts are discontinued from GM. I am sure someone else has replaced these lines. How did you approach it? Dorman does have a repair line (dorman part #55180) but that will only help with the supply side. The return side has a female fitting. The part for later years is available, and have a similar shape, but they have different connectors. The junkyard parts available are rusted as badly as the parts on this car. Thanks for any help you can offer.
  8. So late last year (2014), I had to several fixes all at once on my '95 GP SE. New hoses new radiator new alternator and a couple of small things here and there. I got all the parts and completed everything in a weekend. Afterwards, she was running just like she was before only with no leaking and more power <grunt, grunt, grunt>. Then I noticed my gas mileage dropping like a rock. I went from an avg of 22mpg to around 18mpg. At first I was baffled how anything I replaced could affect mileage so I did some research and couldn't really find anything. I even went and had the plugs and wires replaced. It was dead of winter in Michigan and I don't have access to a garage. I decided to tackle the simplest thing first. I had replaced my gad cap with a locking unit. So I decided to put the old one(original) back on, wait and see what happened. First tank of gas, my mileage jumped back up to about 19 mpg. After a while it has continuously climbed and is now around 21.59 mpg. Of course it all depends on my driving habits and stop and go traffic vs highway. So it just goes to show you, check the simple things first. Or Keep It Simple Stupid. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.
  9. ok,seems like I am never going to stop working on this 92 the gas guage isn't reading right. It says a quarter of a tank of gas but it is empty...any ideas? I know that it's either the guage or the sending unit...I replaced the fuel pump last year and everything looked fine on that end...When I fill it up it goes way past the full .mark...thqks in advance...
  10. So guys I have had a minor coolant leak but today it got really bad I filled up the radiator and overfill tank then drove around for about 30 minutes all that time there was coolant dripping leaving huge puddles in the places where I stopped I parked it and turned it off and there was a hiss near the thermostat and coolant leaking off the bottom of the car seeming like it was comming from the back of the engine there is also NO indication of oil and coolant mixing. Do you Guys have any ideas? GM 3.1 V-6 58,000 miles
  11. 1. The biggest issue is that occasionally it just won't start. It will act like it's going to turn over, then it won't, or it will start, runs the rpm's really low and die. If I sit for about 45 minutes, it will just start out of the blue. The mechanic says he thinks it's the fuel pump, but he can't get it to repeat the issue anytime he has it in the shop. I have found if I keep the gas tank over 1/2 full it doesn't do it. 2. Today I had a 2nd key made for the car. I went to make sure it worked, it wouldn't start the car. (I've never had this problem with a store made key.} I started the car with my factory key, it started right up. I shut it off, used the store made key & it started right up but the Security Light came on & stayed on the entire way home. About 2 miles. When I got home I shut it off, turned it right back on with the store made key, Security Light still on. Not even 10 minutes later my daughter went to leave with the store bought key & it wouldn't work. Has anyone ever had this happen? I have never seen the Security Light come on, let alone stay on, nor had a store made key not work. Thank you in advance for any advice you can give me. Anyone know the best way to clean your headlight covers? Mine are getting pretty nasty & making it hard to see at night. Thanks again, Jennie.
  12. Ok got this 3400 back together and found it leaks fuel just about the large circular thing built into the line just under the throttle body. Would anyone know how I can fix this? I can find no replacement part and better still I cannot see how the lines disconnect out of the car heading towards the gas tank. Even better that's probably not the only thing wrong after I put it back together just the most obvious. This will probably be the last time I do something like this, its always something even if following the manual to the letter.
  13. I am not a fan of that fuel system service GM dealers try to sell - from $75 to $99, where they put some cleaning compound through the fuel and induction system. Right now, on a 2008 LaCrosse with a 3800 V6, I use branded fuel (Chevron, Shell, Texaco) some 90% of the time, don't let the tank go below 1/4 (because the fuel filter is in the tank),* and put in a bottle of Chevron Techron f.i. cleaner or STP concentrated f.i. cleaner every 5,000. So far, at under 50,000 miles, I'm still getting the EPA 30 mpg on the open road. Therefore, I told them I don't want this service. The last service adviser cleared all the recommended service items off my roster because I told him to do that and he knows I keep the car well maintained. I wasn't even this diligent with my last Buick 3800 and the injectors went for as long as I owned it - about 275,000 miles. Questions: - Am I doing this right, as far as fuel and fuel injector cleaner? - Can I put in the fuel injector cleaner more often - say every 3,000 miles, or is that excessive? - What's up with those fuel system service packages? I'm worried they might send too much cleaner through the system and mess with the injectors. Has anyone had that service done? Thanks.
  14. Here is an interesting one... I live in Buffalo and we got a foot of snow last night. I come back home and notice green water on the driveway. I was completely confused as I don't have any green fluids in my car. After further inspection, the water is dripping down off the exhaust pipe before the gas tank. There are no brake or gas lines near that spot and the colors don't match those fluids anyways. The only thing I could dig up is Cr2O3 which is chromium oxide which can form on stainless steels in furnaces that have poor intake sealing. Its the only thing plausible I can come up with. Apparently I'm the first person on the internet to experience this as google comes up empty. Anyone else have green water coming off their exhaust pipes?
  15. I'll try to keep it short 'n sweet. 06 Grand Prix, Leaking Gas . Location: left, passenger side, under the car . Where the Steel fuel line joins (via a black connected), it seems to be dripping from the the black connector. The black connector seems to come down from the gas tank area. Question: Can another connector be purchased or can I somehow bridge it together. It's my work car, dosent have to be O.E.M., just needs to run w/o blowing up. Any help appreciated. Thanks. 😕
  16. I am just replacing this part on my Cutlass, I am just wondering what the part is responsible for? What does it do?
  17. I have a 1993 Cutlass Supreme convertible with the 3.4 DOHC engine. I change oil religiously every 3,000 miles. Upon a cold start, the oil pressure needle is about a 1/4 inch above the second hash mark. When I say second hash mark. If you could pretend that the oil gauge was the fuel gauge it would show a quarter inch more than a quarter tank left upon startup and stays on the quarter mark when idling hot. I know its acceptable for these engines to have 15psi when idling hot. Well, my question is, the gauge is not numbered so you really don't know the true oil pressure unless you put a mechanical gauge on it. Does anyone have an idea of how much oil pressure is when its at the quarter mark?
  18. I've checked with local yards, but they don't have cars like mine, except if I were to drive over 50 miles from here. If anyone lives near a junkyard, I would appreciate the following. 1. All the bolts that hold the cross brackets from the fenders to the radiator core support. 2. All the fasteners that hold the washer tank in. 3. The two nuts that hold the non-power antenna in. I will pay $5 labor plus whatever the hardware costs plus $6 to ship them in a flat rate box. I've checked the hardware stores here too and they don't have anything close.
  19. Engine Diagonal Brace: one of the two metal bars that are attached to the strut tower with one longer bolt (actually just outside it) and to the front of the engine compartment with two smaller bolts. These are the braces that must be removed to access the coolant overflow tank on one side and the washer fluid reservoir and battery on the other side. So I guess I removed and reinstalled the engine diagonal brace one two many times because one of the smaller bolts on the front of the engine compartment just keeps spinning and never gets snug. The threads on the bolt are fine, but most of the threads in the hole came out with the bolt. The damaged threads are M9x1.25. So what to do? (1)I have a tap and die set, but I've never done this sort of work before. Will I get good threads if I jump up to the next largest size (M10x1.25)? (2)Can I use a helicoil? I am hesitant because the bolt only threads through metal that is about 3/8" thick, but the bolt is at least an inch long. I thought helicoils need to bottom out in the hole. Thanks for any help.
  20. Just an FYI post. I recently had to replace the gas tank on my 1996 Gran Sport. The chick that had the car before ran something over and put a hole in it. It was patched but still weeped from the patch. I installed a new Spectra gas tank and the fit is okay. It does need a few tweeks with a hammer here and there to get it to fit properly. The tank comes with a new gasket. Throw it away and buy the AC Delco gasket. I installed the Spectra gasket and found that it would leak when the tank was full. When I pulled it, I compaired it to the AC Delco one. The Delco gasket is slight larger in diameter and of a harder rubber. The Spectra gasket is too flexable and will distort when installing the sender, causing it to leak. The Delco part number is 10152293 and costs $6 and change at Rockauto.
  21. replaced all the relays under the hood have new cooling fan it works when hardwired to battery, but it does not kick on when my car is running and the coolant will boil over and spray out the radiator cap and overflow the coolant tank bad coolant switch or something else?
  22. So i'm about to change the fuel tank with the sending unit as well. What kind of paint/coating can i use to prevent any rust/corrosion in the future? Thanks guys!
  23. I have a 95 regal coupe with a weak battery.I'm sort of hurting for $ at the moment and have a new optima red top with top and side terminals. It looks like I can fit it in the bracket but I am worried about the washer tank and that the terminals on the optima seem 2 close together. Any suggestions? Thanks Dave Sent from my SPH-M820-BST using Tapatalk 2
  24. Changed the fuel pump, now the passenger side parking brake is permanently bound on. Presumably the tank is causing this. Anyone else had this problem when changing the fuel pump? I'm going to loosen the straps up again and take a pry bar and try to pry the tank forward a bit.
  25. Local parts shop has a couple cans of white engine paint on for $1 each on close-out. Fuel tank has to come out to replace the pump (weak check valve/excessive pressure bleed-off), and has a little bit of surface rust on it. Any harm in painting it?
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