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Found 1,372 results

  1. Okay the engine starts fine when cold. The engine starts fine when up to temp and restarting within 5 minutes of shutting it off. If the car sits for 15 minutes to 45 minutes, the engine will fire and then drop down in rpms almost stalling or it will just stall. If I give it a bit of gas when the engine fires and keep the rpms up for 30 seconds the engine will stay running. The car has had a complete tune up, new fuel pump, gas tank, fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure is good and steady. The intake gaskets and plenium have been replaced. TPS , MAP, MAF, Crank and Cam sensors have all been replaced. All vacuum lines have been replaced. No codes are being thrown. Anyone have any ideas?
  2. It happens a couple minutes after starting, if I go in reverse or drive sometimes it'll stall out with out my foot on the gas. I changed plugs, wires, map sensor egr valve gasket, cleaned throttle body iac and egr, fuel pressure was normal, cant find vacuum leaks. Does anybody have an idea or have had this problem before? map sensor reads bad but I replaced it and tested the new one, code 33 is coming up, I used a multi meter at the plug and its getting 5 volts. Here's a video.
  3. Hey guys new to the forum. I have a 92 four door 3.1 lumina cream puff lol....it's pretty solid but the trans seems to not step down when slowing down. Hard for me to explain but let say I'm driving 40 mph then come up to a stop sign ect. After I stop its like in neutral...if I press the gas hard enough it will kinda slam into gear. Or if I'm driving and come up to a stop sign ect stop manually put it into netural then to drive works every time. Just extremely annoying.
  4. I parked a 1995 Cutlass with the 3.4 dohc in November 2012 with a full tank of gas, and also added Stabil to the tank. It's a convertible that I park (unheated garage) to keep out of the winter salt. It ended up sitting longer than I had planned. In a couple of months it's going to come out of storage. I'm hoping the Stablil bought me some time as far as the gas going stale, and that I can just start driving the car, burn down some of the old gas in the tank, and dilute the remaining old gas with fresh gas. Does anyone have any experience they can share about putting a vehicle that has not been driven for a couple of years back in service?
  5. Basics- 96 Lumina 109k, 3100. Car has all new fuel lines, AC Delco fuel pump, fuel pump relay, new gas tank and new filler neck. I intermittently get this P1441 code when the car is cold and driven past 20 mph. It comes and goes as it pleases. I've done some research online but I'm not sure where to go in terms of diagnosis. Also- unsure if this is related. I am having a hard start issue once the car is up to operating temperature. When the car is cold, I have no issue at all. Would like to straighten this out if possible. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
  6. MY 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass is f or sale, i am asking $4000 OBO. This vehicle has 58,519 miles. it has only had 3 owners and has been garage kept for the majority of its life time. There is 0 rust to be found on this vehicle. It is a 5 speed manual (very odd ball for this type of car) There is minor work to be done no immediate fixes: minor dent on side of passenger door, middle arm rest leather cracked, hood is rock chipped. other than that the vehicle gets great gas mileage on the high way and is a smooth riding car. I live in Piqua, Ohio and with the purchase of this car i will have it buffed, waxed, and detailed.
  7. I got a 99 lumina 3.1 with a evap leak code.I have replaced purge solenoid,gas cap,filler neck, canister purge vent in that order and code keeps triggering. Code is getting triggered after I burn past 1/4 tank from stenting drive cycle but will not complete room I get the error. Have check over all hoses and not seeing any cracks. Any help would be helpful.
  8. I picked this car up few months ago and got a evap leak malfunctioning code. I have already replaced gas cap and purge vent solenoid.I got the p0440 again.I noticed the rubber boots on the purge valve was letting air out. I changed then so there is no more gaping with smaller gauge rubber hose. Still waiting for my drivev cycle to complete. Any thoughts on what else could be the problem. And what is the drive cycle for evap system monitor contain me to do?
  9. So late last year (2014), I had to several fixes all at once on my '95 GP SE. New hoses new radiator new alternator and a couple of small things here and there. I got all the parts and completed everything in a weekend. Afterwards, she was running just like she was before only with no leaking and more power <grunt, grunt, grunt>. Then I noticed my gas mileage dropping like a rock. I went from an avg of 22mpg to around 18mpg. At first I was baffled how anything I replaced could affect mileage so I did some research and couldn't really find anything. I even went and had the plugs and wires replaced. It was dead of winter in Michigan and I don't have access to a garage. I decided to tackle the simplest thing first. I had replaced my gad cap with a locking unit. So I decided to put the old one(original) back on, wait and see what happened. First tank of gas, my mileage jumped back up to about 19 mpg. After a while it has continuously climbed and is now around 21.59 mpg. Of course it all depends on my driving habits and stop and go traffic vs highway. So it just goes to show you, check the simple things first. Or Keep It Simple Stupid. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.
  10. Hi everyone. I want to say thank you to all of you who have helped me directly and indirectly over the years with keeping my vehicles on the road. The reason for this thread is that I almost lost my family in an accident yesterday. Someone decided to blow through a stop sign and T-bone my car with 4 passengers and myself in it. We were all shaken up but my sister-in-law got the full brunt of the pickup. I tried to pound the gas to avoid him (Red Explorer) but it was too late. She was released from the hospital last night with no broken bones or internal injuries other than taking a 4000lb-plus-line-backer to the side. My girlfriend was in the front passenger seat is a bit beat up and her daughter was in the rear sitting on the hump with my cousin sitting behind me. I was doing 45kph down an incline and he was doing 20-30kph accelerating into me and the impact spun me 180* through the intersection. I may shit on GM products but I have to say that if it wasn't for the stance, fat arse and beefy build of this car (apparently there was a rollover last year with the same intersection in the same fashion). Things would be much worse. Take care everyone and thanks for everything. I am happy that I have family alive and well on both sides of the monitor. =) Cheers -Steve
  11. Hey guys, 95 vert 3.4, 172,000 miles usually runs pretty good. The other day I started it and it shut right off. Started it again and it revved up to 4000 rpm and slowly died out. Started it again and kept my foot on the gas and it wouldn't rev higher than 4000 rpms and started to sputter if I tried to go higher. Kept foot on gas steady for about 3 minutes, then slowly let off and it was fine. It seems to only do this in the morning or after sitting for a few hours. It runs fine after it stays started. Btw..where is the fuel filter on this car. Thanks in advance for any ideas.
  12. Welp,I tried moving the needle on the dashbord guage,that didn't work...Anyone tell me what or where to go from here? Seems like my sending unit is bad...are there tests that I can do to the guage? how about the sending unit? resistances? thanks in advance....
  13. ok,seems like I am never going to stop working on this 92 z34...now the gas guage isn't reading right. It says a quarter of a tank of gas but it is empty...any ideas? I know that it's either the guage or the sending unit...I replaced the fuel pump last year and everything looked fine on that end...When I fill it up it goes way past the full .mark...thqks in advance...
  14. Hey guys im having a issue with the car, car just died taking off from the gas station and i got no spark. I got a crankshaft Sensor and im trying to figure out where it is but we checked fuses and i noticed a fuse in spot 10 which is 15 AMP IGN ( Under hood fuse box) keeps blowing everytime i go to crank after i replaced it. Any ideas on what it could be besides possible bad wiring? I got no idea what the fuse is tied to.
  15. 1. The biggest issue is that occasionally it just won't start. It will act like it's going to turn over, then it won't, or it will start, runs the rpm's really low and die. If I sit for about 45 minutes, it will just start out of the blue. The mechanic says he thinks it's the fuel pump, but he can't get it to repeat the issue anytime he has it in the shop. I have found if I keep the gas tank over 1/2 full it doesn't do it. 2. Today I had a 2nd key made for the car. I went to make sure it worked, it wouldn't start the car. (I've never had this problem with a store made key.} I started the car with my factory key, it started right up. I shut it off, used the store made key & it started right up but the Security Light came on & stayed on the entire way home. About 2 miles. When I got home I shut it off, turned it right back on with the store made key, Security Light still on. Not even 10 minutes later my daughter went to leave with the store bought key & it wouldn't work. Has anyone ever had this happen? I have never seen the Security Light come on, let alone stay on, nor had a store made key not work. Thank you in advance for any advice you can give me. Anyone know the best way to clean your headlight covers? Mine are getting pretty nasty & making it hard to see at night. Thanks again, Jennie.
  16. I am junking out my rusting black sedan and moving my 3800 to a rust free body and taking best of both cutlass into one. I'm not using my 3:43 trans anymore, delays going into gear and only get 18/19 mpg in town and 24-27 mpg highway. Reason #1- have a baby coming in sept and want dependable vehicle and Bonus- if I can optimize gas mileage as driver and vehicle we'd take on trips... option of trans. 1. 1996 3:05 FDR trans with 65k miles, 4t60e 2. 1988, 282 with all needed parts, except clutch How dependable are the 282 trans? What upgrades should I do to trans? Anyone use these with 3.5/3.8 engines that can tell me experience. Or If I use the 3:05 trans (already spare n selected for gas mileage), what would you recommend me doing before I install? Of course #1 goal is dependability, then Improved gas mileage. suggestions on which? Thoughts?
  17. As many of you, whom have already meet me know I’m from Angola, NY. I’ve been hesitant to attempt hosting a meet, but after some positive feedback in Erie, I’m going to at least try in 2015. For those whom aren’t familiar with Angola it’s uniquely situated like an island in the middle of the E/B and W/B lanes of I-90. Aside from service vehicles it’s virtually inaccessible by road, you have to park on either side of the highway and then there’s a long pedestrian bridge on either side that’s full enclosed that you have to walk through to get to the Travel Center (the heart of Angola). Ideally we’re looking at the weekend of May 8th-10th for the meet. For simplicity and pictures. We should all meet in the Westbound parking lot. You need to go past the Travel Center, and get off at the next exit (57A Angola/Eden) and immediately get back onto the NY Thru way going in the opposite direction. Yes, this involves surrendering and then obtaining a toll card, if you do a U-Turn and do not have the appropriate card you will get charged even more tolls than you would otherwise and you will also be delayed. Everyone going through Erie (for example Pittsburgh, Cleveland, Toledo, etc) will need to go to the meet in this manner, it may sound confusing, but you’ll get home quicker if you do things this way. http://www.thruway.ny.gov/travelers/...tp-angola.html There’s a Sunoco gas station on site (both sides) and once you walk across the bridges to Angola, there’s McDonalds, LavAzza, Moe’s Southwest Grill, Auntie Anne’s, Cinnabon and McDonald’s is open 24 hours a day!! Loads of sitting room. Wifi access is limited to 30 minutes or so, and plenty of bathrooms. Entertainment: I’m used to it since I live there, but this place (I’m told) is 100% non-stop excitement if you haven’t been there before. You can visit the Eastbound parking lot and twin Sunoco, the trucks look as if they are going to crash into you on the bridges, and I’m hoping that we could have a few photographers like maybe Eric, Rich and Lizzie take some neat passing shots from the bridges with us all parading under. We’re a ways out, but I’d consider a group trip to “Gay Road†if there’s interest. Accomodations: My place is obviously a little too small for this kind of thing, and I can’t really get close to accommodating everyone. I’ve been in contact with Galen and he can rent & fuel a climate controlled trailer for about $700 a day. (Climate controlled is heated only) which is why we’d have to have the meet so early because otherwise it could get pretty hot in those things! So if there was 10 people at the meet it would be $140, there would be some outlets in the trailer, but most of the time we’d be outside partying at the picnic area or inside Angola. You’d have to bring your own air mattress and/or sleeping bag. Questions?? Everyone asks me if I can get discounts at any of the restaurants inside the travel plaza. No, I cannot, you have to actually work for those places to get the discounts, and even then, they only apply to you. Just because I live in the Travel plaza, doesn’t mean that I somehow automatically work there, I have another job that’s not fast food. Do you have to walk all of the way to the Travel Plaza on the highway median to get food?? Not really, there’s rotundas out by the parking lot and there’s vending machines there with snacks & drinks. The real advantage to getting drinks inside and walking the walk is that you can buy one cup from McDonald’s put your name on it and go back for free refills all weekend long. I guess that I’m putting this thread out there to generate ideas and for those are considering going to ask questions.
  18. just got a decent condition 1988 regal custom. 90k miles no rot minor rust when it's cold or first started it stalls when you hit the gas at idle. it will idle smooth and no CEL. when you go to accelerate it bogs and stalls or almost stalls then grabs. tried disconnecting MAF but it got worse and bucked during the driving range too. once it's warmed up after 5-10 minutes driving off idle is a very small hesitation but drives nice. oddly if I shut it off hot and restart it seems to reset the stall timer and you have to drive it a few minutes before it's ok again I got it for $400 and don't want to have a money pit.I have 4 other cars but i wanted a comfortable automatic American car
  19. It's time to ask a fuel injector question of my own. This is the situation with my '94 Cutlass LQ1. At 150K an injector or many started leaking, dumping fuel in the intake while car was off. I either had to crank a long time or floor the gas pedal to lean it out enough to get it started Not having a way to figure out which were leaking I replaced all of them with remanned by Autoline (bad decision). It ran perfect for a month then started cranking longer sometimes. Within a 6 months 1 failed resulting in an intermittent violent surge at idle (400- 1500 a few seconds then die. Thought it was a vacuum leak. I did find a couple of small ones with no resolution. I finally took it to the dealership, they found the faulty injector. They said anything less than 12 ohms was considered faulty. One measured 11 ohms. Then again this was for a '94 lQ1. the injector was replace under warranty, but labor was a lot. I wish I would have bought NEW ones, I still might just to be done with it. It still cranks a while sometimes. This is happening again. I talked them in in to replacement under warranty or money back. Anybody have experience with: GB manufacturing (reman) Standard automotive (new) Accel (new) 23lb/hr. Thanks for your input.
  20. The starter in my wife's 94 coupe with the 3.1 died this morning, ended up going out and getting a new one along with a new battery. Tossed both in, went to start the car and it won't fire. I only unhooked the 3 cables going to the starter, along with the battery cables, and made sure they all got hooked back up properly. The car ran fine before the starter went out, and now it sounds like the fuel pump isn't kicking on. Is there something I am overlooking that I may have knocked loose, or do I need to reset something? Tried some starting fluid, in gas the pump wasn't pushing gas, but it didn't even attempt to fire. Could I have knocked something loose dealing with the ignition?
  21. Hey everybody, 94 cutlass supreme 3.4. When I get on the gas it accelerates fine up until about 5500 RPMs. At this point regardless of what gear it's in the car stops gaining power, engine gets noticeably louder, and the check engine light comes on. Nothing else seems to be affected and the car still drives fine besides this issue. After I have turned the car off and back on the check engine light goes away. Any ideas where my top end power is going?
  22. i was trying to find good curb weight info for different years of Oldsmobiles. Seems i'm finding conflicting information. Where have you gone that has good data? I read that the 1997 CS has better Side impact safety rating, so i was wondering if there was weight increase? Also wondering what weight differences are between CS Sedan and Intrique and Olds 88.... for personal reasons. Trying to find contributing factors on difference of gas mileage and how quick some of these have seemed in compariison, beside the FDR.
  23. Ok need some help and Ill try to be as detailed as i can. 3.1 with 113k miles, having idle misfires and misfires at any rpm. Give it more gas trys to cover it up but its there. Checked spark plugs they all looked perfect, i replaced them anyway. I also replaced the spark plug wires. when you let off the gas it bucks and surges hard. in drive at a stop it feels like it will die but doesnt just idles missing . Theres no water or antifreeze in the oil. Theres good fuel pressure. No signs of vacuum leaks. New fuel filter . New air cleaner. Heres the snag I have run down on my budget for this car and I have enough to get a new ignition module or coil packs but not both. I really dont want to just keep throwing parts at the car. I know check for codes , plugged the code reader in and its not throwing any codes at all. Which boggles the mind with such pronounced misfiring. No codes. So which direction should i go or am i missing something? please help this is our only vehicle and I hate driving it in such condition. Thanks in advance.
  24. Ok got this 3400 back together and found it leaks fuel just about the large circular thing built into the line just under the throttle body. Would anyone know how I can fix this? I can find no replacement part and better still I cannot see how the lines disconnect out of the car heading towards the gas tank. Even better that's probably not the only thing wrong after I put it back together just the most obvious. This will probably be the last time I do something like this, its always something even if following the manual to the letter.
  25. Hello all im new just found this forum on google i just got 1994 buick regal for free i rebuilt the 3.1L V6 that was in and now im starting on other stuff like the rear suspension now i know that its like crazy hard to find a new rear spring of any kind i cant even find a good used one anywhere lol the one that is on the car right now is starting to sag and i have put gas struts on didnt really help much at all i found this kit http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3476 and it says it will fit a 1992 to 1996 chevy lumina and i was wondering if anybody could tell me if it would fit on my regal too any help would be great! Thanks all
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