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Crazy K

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About Crazy K

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  • Birthday 08/11/1979

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  1. The sensor that controls spark is on the rear of block. Most likely ICM, but I have found the crank sensor and two color twisted purple/yellow wire between the sensor and the block to be at fault on other cars.
  2. I'm interested in building similar cars myself, but life has gotten in the way. Hasn't it for all of us? I'm have retired my l67 swap car for now actually. PCM does not run things right. It will emerge like a phoenix from the ashes someday. I almost started chasing the suspension on this car but everything is rusted together.... and I don't want a harsh ride either. Forgot to mention I got the rear STB plates, someone took the bar? whatthequack?
  3. the complete drivetrain was replaced at 217,000 miles, and was gone over with alot of allegedly good work. I don't think the person who did the work did his work well.
  4. I was shocked to see this car. it was barely started being stripped when i saw it, I only took the pcm and a souvenir emblem and star from inner truck lid for andrei. Actually I also took the remote start/alarm viper system with the remote as well especially since it was complete and with ignition switch I can basically plug it into one of my cars. (hence dropped column) Those are vert seats on the roof that came from me, and those front buckets i think came from the vert that you know who took from me. I got to drive this car twice. Once just before the l67 swap, and once when i met Andrei in Indy, and it was hella fun to drive! very sad find Allegedly trans was whining horrible, and engine needed rebuild plus radiator (which seems to be new now) was leaking. This according to you know who who traded this car in, and while doing so defaulted on his deal he made to pay his debt to me.
  5. serpentine belt tensioner? sometimes they are broken, even on car. You need to take a 18mm wrench to the bolt that goes through the movable pulley and turn the bolt to make the pulley drop (iirc counteclockwise, reveerse threaded bolt) On my parents regal the bolt stripped and turned freely, requiring replacing the tensioner assembly. If you are pulling the tensioner, you may consider an upgrade; if you car has only one elbow coolant elbow you should upgrade to the type that has two. Often the one elbow (earlier type) has a built in metal fitting that slips into the engine and it cracks during removal. I spent alot of time with a crowbar slowly wiggling the original elbow loose, later to find the bolt stripped during reassembly. Later types were used on 3800 camaros and mybe 99-2000 fwd cars? Use newer metal elbows for your repair as well. some reading:
  6. possibly yes. but... Coupe and sedan seats are the same seat, except for the tilt mechanism, meaning you should likely only have to change that. It is a L shaped hinge assembly on the outer side of the seat included the tilt mechanism and hooks on with 4 bolts. However, because you are looking at AQ9 seats, you may have the trim parts around the lever that need changed... the lever stick through the upholstery on non-AQ9 seats. good luck!
  7. Crazy K

    freaking dents!

    I would try any of the harry u pull its in eastern PA for body parts if they are still there.... but.... I would not invest a penny into body work if you still have issues with the car. Also, buying sub-par parts... and i have no kind way of describing it... is writing your name on a bullet. install problem solver gasket when you do you engines intakes. use metal coolant elbows if have a 3800 buy only premium wheel bearings if you need wheel bearings I've bought a few hoods. every hood I have bought either was taken in a truck or van to the car, or was swapped out in a junkyard parking lot.
  8. you need to get a vernier caliper and measure your own vehicle, as without further info we can't tell you what your vehicle has as options vary/ let me state though that you should upgrade to the heaviest components you can before you buy bushings. best front bar is 34mm. if you don;t have that bar it is found on all gp b4u coupes and anything gen 1 or 1.5 with a 3.4 dohc. add the frame plates reinforcement plates from a donor if you car does not have them. Personally I add the front 34mm bar to every car along with the frame plates, and use the following to very high success (250,000 miles on one set and still going): best rear is from a 95 only 3.4 lumina or MC.
  9. Kind of interesting. suspension changes? not much, mid 95 cars got an increase in front rotor size. I have also observed that rear swaybars seem to be standard in cutlasses in 95, but not in 94... often if the car has a swaybar it does not get the aux springs, but sometimes they could get both, though I believe no W car ever got neither. No other change in suspension occurred in gen 1 cars
  10. buy a broken car of a type you like more and a swap on that, whether it is a clean century, regal, or whatever.
  11. Differential Lube Tube Retainer Kit:sonnax 84532-01K 4t60e/4t65e add this to prevent the differential lube line from seperating from the accumulator, which results in transmission failure. It locks the lube line and the line adjacent to together.
  12. Crazy K

    4T60e Shift Kit

    research, buy and install this part: sonnax 84532-01K
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