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Addicted To Boost

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About Addicted To Boost

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  • Birthday 07/02/1990

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  1. Jiggity, 3.1 cars also have these plastic wire holders on the spark plug wires going to the rear cylinders.
  2. I need the crankcase breather hose that goes from the front valve cover to the airbox on my TGP. Any interest in parting with that piece?
  3. Jay, where are these? A lot of them look to be southern cars... I'm on the lookout for parts for mine, but there are never any 88-93 GPs local to me.
  4. There is no replacement for snow tires in that climate. All seasons suck at everything. <-----------Lived in MN for 23 years.
  5. I'm not exactly sure. They gave us a price as shipped. I would guess somewhere in the $100-150 range.
  6. I live completely on the opposite side of the continent. This car is in New York. We had them removed and shipped.
  7. Matts Used Auto Parts USA-NY(Hyde-Park) Request_Quote 845-471-2377 / 845-471-2383 The front seats from this car now reside with me. Spencer took the driver seat and I have the passenger seat.
  8. All B4U cars came with 16x8" crosslace wheels. That said, cars with the GTP package got 245/50/16s, SE cars got 225/60/16s. The tire placard in the drivers side door jamb will reflect this. To answer your question, the 245s offer a bit more traction and the shorter sidewall helps with handling for the more sporty GTP package cars.
  9. I used that method. Not ideal, but it worked well. You need to strip all the clear off the lips first. Make sure to tape off the lace portion well so the aircraft remover doesn't seep into the laces and eat the paint off.
  10. 1990-1991 STE models could have the PMIII as an option. It was not standard equipment on those cars. If you happen to run across a 1990 STE Turbo, the system did come standard on those. If the PMIII has been maintained, they are a lot easier to deal with. (Regular brake fluid flushes and accumulator replacements as needed.) That said, most people neglect them and there are a few things to look for on a PMIII car. First off, when you turn the key on, you should hear the pump motor running to pressurize the system. It should run immediately after turning the key on and continue running for up to 60 seconds. If it runs longer than that, doesn't shut off, or doesn't run at all, there are bigger problems. Next, check how many presses of the brake pedal it takes before the pump has to run to pressurize the system again. If the accumulator is in good shape, it should take 3 presses before the pump has to cycle again. If the motor cycles every time the pedal is pressed, the accumulator is likely bad. Look at the dash- are there ANTILOCK or BRAKE lights on? The system will set codes for low accumulator charge, long pump run time, bad wheel speed sensors, etc. Take a look at the fluid level and condition in the reservoir, also for fluid leaks on the rear pump housing of the PMIII. They can develop cracks over time and leak here. Also look at the rear proportioning valve near the fuel filter, these will leak sometimes as well. I think I've pretty well covered the common bases. More often than not, a full system flush and a new accumulator will make the PMIII work properly again. The downside of the system is that there isn't a failsafe for it, if it does fail. They are 100% electronic. Others have vacuum brake-swapped their PMIII cars, but it is a very tedious and time consuming task.
  11. Check to make sure your remote positive terminal is tight. I've had that come loose before and cause all kinds of crazy issues.
  12. I'm not on the forums nearly as much as I used to be, but I visit here and TGPforums at least once a month. Seems like most people have migrated to the Facebook groups.
  13. If you decide to part it before scrapping it, let us know. I could use a few interior parts.
  14. The VIN I listed is for my car, not the copart car. lol
  15. 1G5WP14V0KF334344 Red exterior, tan leather, factory sunroof.
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