Addicted To Boost Posted May 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 Alright does the video work now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 Your injectors are fine... I still think your crank sensor is fookered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted May 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 Why would my injectors all fire when I just turn the key on? I didn't try to start the car in the vid, this is just what happens when I turn the key and the fuel pump primes. Would the crank sensor cause the injectors to all fire simultaneously for no reason? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 Someone correct me if I am wrong here, but aren't they supposed to to start a cold engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderw31 Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 Someone correct me if I am wrong here, but aren't they supposed to to start a cold engine? Don't know for sure, but that would make sense since they did away with the cold start injector on the Gen2 60* V6. If that is the case though, they should fire, and then stop with pressure still on the rail. If you could position the injectors over something to catch the spray, you could leave the key in the on position and see if the spray stops at any point with while the rail is still pressurized. If the spray stops on some injectors, then the other injectors have issues. If it never stops, then I'd say CKP, ICM, or ECM. Check for spark too, and if you get no spark it is likely the CKP or ICM. If you get proper spark, I'd suspect the ECM. Of course with all of this, it is possible that there's a wiring issue... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 STOP!!!! do NOT turn the key on... prime and operate the pump ONLY with the test lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted May 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 I fought with the CKP for a couple hours last night.. stupid thing crumbled in my hand! I'm going to spray some penetrating lubricant in there, hopefully I can get it to pop out then. The upper intake and injectors are all reassembled now.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderw31 Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 do NOT turn the key on... prime and operate the pump ONLY with the test lead. Good point... hadn't thought of that. They shouldn't spray at all doing that, huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 do NOT turn the key on... prime and operate the pump ONLY with the test lead. Good point... hadn't thought of that. They shouldn't spray at all doing that, huh? sorry... yeah. It sounds really bizarre to have it spraying out all out with the engine not running.... I know it is a nuisance... but you probably need to pull em out and try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted May 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 I'm replacing the CKP today, if it runs after that is replaced, cool. Otherwise, I'm done working on it for a while. I'm fed up with this car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 Give it to me. you'll never have to worry about it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 thats why my original black/grey TGP is off the road now and I have pretty much given up on it. The CKP crumbled off and I would have to pull the motor to get it out. I didn't know what else to do because after I had problems with the engine not running right, I had the laptop hooked up to it and trying to see if there was anything unusual. there was nothing wrong with it as far as I could tell, then all the sudden the car died and when I tried to restart it, it wouldn't turn over and the lights went dim in the interior for a few seconds and then went back to normal. so it went from running like crap to not even cranking the engine. that car has chronic problems that just won't go away with the engine and transmission. sad because I hoped it would make it past 200k but now it is doomed because other cars have priority that are much younger... well older, but less miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted May 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 I sprayed it with some WD-40 on Saturday, hoping it would loosen up the sensor.. so I went back today and I grabbed ahold of what was left of the sensor and wiggled it for a bit, then it started to come out.. I started to get all excited and happy that the sensor was coming out.. then only HALF of the sensor came out It looks like the sensor broke in half right where the o-ring sits. It also broke off completely flat, so there is nothing I can grab onto to get the rest of the sensor out of the block.. To anyone that has dealt with this problem before, how can I get it out now? I was thinking of heating up a sheetmetal screw and sticking it into the sensor, let it cool and pull it out.. any other ideas? I really don't want to remove the engine from this car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 yes, get screw RED HOT and see ifyou can melt it into the plastic....otherwise, a strong magnet might work....??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 I highly highly doubt a strong magnet will work...ever....they are in there super tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 I sprayed it with some WD-40 on Saturday, hoping it would loosen up the sensor.. so I went back today and I grabbed ahold of what was left of the sensor and wiggled it for a bit, then it started to come out.. I started to get all excited and happy that the sensor was coming out.. then only HALF of the sensor came out It looks like the sensor broke in half right where the o-ring sits. It also broke off completely flat, so there is nothing I can grab onto to get the rest of the sensor out of the block.. To anyone that has dealt with this problem before, how can I get it out now? I was thinking of heating up a sheetmetal screw and sticking it into the sensor, let it cool and pull it out.. any other ideas? I really don't want to remove the engine from this car... I mothballed my 91 international for that reason. but I also tried to drill it and broke a bit in it. I have decided the only way to fix it is the next time I can. I will take my engine lift out there in my roommates pick-up, yank the motor, and then drill the sensor out, and put the motor back in. try the hot screw method... though it failed for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 If you lift the motor up just enough, could you unbolt the oil pan and tap it out that way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 needle nose pliers, or needle visegrips are your friend. I decided to change the CPS in my Cutty last year when doing the alternator (automatic LQ1 = CPS way harder to get at than a 3.1) and broke it off, managed to pull it out with bent nose needlenose pliers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 get a dremel with a flexible wand attachment, and drill two holes in the sensor for your plier tips to grab onto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 That car only had like 40k on it at the time though right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 yeah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 But you cant get at the CPS any other time other than when the trans is out, the top end is off the block, or the cradle is dropped and alt removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 Oh no, I don't blame you for replacing it. Granted I've never had an issue with one. I'm skeptical that pliers will work in this situation. I think it worked for you since you have low miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 worth a shot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 worth a shot I agree with that, you really got nothing to loose trying it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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