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Nick's Rolling TGP Thread


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they dont cost that much, like $60 each from the dealer. I prefer to have new ones when it comes to coils, the coils are suspended in oil and thats how they keep cool. when you buy new they should last a while after that. the ICM however can be tested at autozone. also you should chase the threads or brush them real good on those skinny little coil bolts and antiseize them because they strip out that thin plate easy as hell. that happened to me and luckily I had a spare. thats another reason to go with new coils, so you dont have to mess with it for awhile and have good piece of mind.

 

thats just my opinion however.

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The coils were free. I got them from my neighbor, who had them on his 96 Cutlass and were known to be working. So the coils I have in the car now are known to be working. The ICM in the car is brand new. I replaced all the bolts that hold the coils with new ones when I had all that off.

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check the ignition wiring and grounds near and around the steering rack. my buddies old car had this exact same thing happen, turned out to be a wire that had torn off or just popped off.

just a thought, probably not the reason though. did you check the gas tank for fuel? lol dumb question...

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The problem I am trying to solve right now is that I have no spark.

 

hmmmm, did you check these? :

 

-ICM

-wiring to the battery? they could've shorted out

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I have replaced the ICM with a new unit and I replaced the coils with known working units, still with no spark at the coils.

 

I also replaced both of my battery cables, grounds, and added a bigger alt cable with no change.

 

I do have power going to my ICM, verified with a test light.

 

I am thinking maybe a dead ECM is to blame, or there is a wire shorted out somewhere... I know very little about electronics, just trying to learn a bit.

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I have replaced the ICM with a new unit and I replaced the coils with known working units, still with no spark at the coils.

 

I also replaced both of my battery cables, grounds, and added a bigger alt cable with no change.

 

I do have power going to my ICM, verified with a test light.

 

I am thinking maybe a dead ECM is to blame, or there is a wire shorted out somewhere... I know very little about electronics, just trying to learn a bit.

 

my personal belief is a shorted out wire, but a dead ECM??? can you read codes with the paper clip technique? if not then I'd say Blown ECM.

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It doesn't read off any codes, so everything else must be working correctly. The car did run perfectly for 5 minutes, then just shut off, like someone flipped a switch. No spark.

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Tell me EXACTLY how you checked for power going to the ICM. Which wire on which harness going where.

 

Do you have a service manual?

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Tell me EXACTLY how you checked for power going to the ICM. Which wire on which harness going where.

 

Do you have a service manual?

Yes, I do have a service manual. I took a test light, grounded it, and took the wires that plug into the drivers side of the ICM and put the test light in that socket. So there is power to the ICM.

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There is only a Crank Position Sensor on this engine. I have replaced the CPS TWICE, both with new units, no change.

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Tell me EXACTLY how you checked for power going to the ICM. Which wire on which harness going where.

 

Do you have a service manual?

Yes, I do have a service manual. I took a test light, grounded it, and took the wires that plug into the drivers side of the ICM and put the test light in that socket. So there is power to the ICM.

 

yes that's fine, but WHICH wires?

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Nick, check the CPS wires, if it's not making a connecting where it should, or just isn't reading right, you wont get any spark!

What exactly do I check here? Its plugged in and seems to be a good tight connection. I don't think the CPS sends any signal unless the motor is running or being cranked over, so the test light isn't any help there.

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Nick, check the CPS wires, if it's not making a connecting where it should, or just isn't reading right, you wont get any spark!

What exactly do I check here? Its plugged in and seems to be a good tight connection. I don't think the CPS sends any signal unless the motor is running or being cranked over, so the test light isn't any help there.

 

it could be one of the 2 wires coming from the sensor, if you have no spark that's the number one thing to check. if it's even installed at a slighly bad angle or isn't able to read the crank movement,m that would make it so you had no spark.

it's happened several times with cars I've worked on, like Taurus SHo's, honda civics, and TGP's.

I know this is a stupid question but is the sensor the correct TGP specific one from advanced auto?

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The wires that go to the plug on the DRIVERS side of the ICM. Do you need more specific than that?

 

I meant which individual wires.. which color, what was their pin position on the connector, etc... but nevermind.

 

it could be one of the 2 wires coming from the sensor, if you have no spark that's the number one thing to check. if it's even installed at a slighly bad angle or isn't able to read the crank movement,m that would make it so you had no spark.

it's happened several times with cars I've worked on, like Taurus SHo's, honda civics, and TGP's.

I know this is a stupid question but is the sensor the correct TGP specific one from advanced auto?

 

I've read that if the shielding breaks up too much on that stretch of wire than it can cause no start.

However, I've never heard of a TGP specific CPS.

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Nick, check the CPS wires, if it's not making a connecting where it should, or just isn't reading right, you wont get any spark!

What exactly do I check here? Its plugged in and seems to be a good tight connection. I don't think the CPS sends any signal unless the motor is running or being cranked over, so the test light isn't any help there.

 

it could be one of the 2 wires coming from the sensor, if you have no spark that's the number one thing to check. if it's even installed at a slighly bad angle or isn't able to read the crank movement,m that would make it so you had no spark.

it's happened several times with cars I've worked on, like Taurus SHo's, honda civics, and TGP's.

I know this is a stupid question but is the sensor the correct TGP specific one from advanced auto?

The sensor isn't TGP specific. The one I have in there now is a brand new AC Delco sensor. I tried replacing that sensor with a new off-brand sensor from O'Reilly's and that didn't help me out. The AC Delco one is back in there now.

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I have never needed to replace the cps yet.... prob. not a bad thing to do though.

 

and I have a brand new one just in case.

 

 

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I didn't think there was a difference either :neutral:

if the sheilding is melted or cracked, or if there's any bare wire showing through. the signal will be interupted and the car will have zero spark.

check the wires and follow them till they reach the ECM. it'll probably be a bit of a pain to do, but trust me, it's worth it.

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What can be used to replacement wiring for the CPS? The wiring there on both my TGP and TSTE was/is in really shitty condition, that shielding looks like it takes a beating.

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What can be used to replacement wiring for the CPS? The wiring there on both my TGP and TSTE was/is in really shitty condition, that shielding looks like it takes a beating.

x2.. If this ECM I'm getting doesn't fix my problem, replacing the CPS wiring is next on the list of things to do. Does the CPS wiring go into the main wiring harness?

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What can be used to replacement wiring for the CPS? The wiring there on both my TGP and TSTE was/is in really shitty condition, that shielding looks like it takes a beating.

x2.. If this ECM I'm getting doesn't fix my problem, replacing the CPS wiring is next on the list of things to do. Does the CPS wiring go into the main wiring harness?

 

Yes, it goes to the main harness.

if worse comes to worse Nick, I'd make you a brand new wiring harness if you shipped me your old one.

I'm really good with electical. I did it to my 99 GTP and my wife's old 95 escort, among other ones.

let me know if you're interested.

or if you want to do it the easy way (which will cost less), just replace the wires in between the CPS and in the harness that go to the ECM.

there are only two wires, so it's pretty simple if you can follow them and see where they go.

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I might take you up on that if I can't make it work now.

 

I'm still waiting on the ECM, so that is the next thing I need to test on the car.

 

If that doesn't work, I know of a Turbo STE in a local junkyard, so I might try to get the wiring harness off of that.

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