UA-65274002-1 Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'sensors'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Site Related
    • Announcements and News
    • New Member Introductions
  • General W-Body Discussion
    • FAQs and Technical Information
    • General
    • Powertrain
    • PCM Tuning
    • Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
    • Car Audio
    • Appearance/Car Care
    • Member's Rides
    • Events
  • Specialty Forums
    • Turbo Grand Prix
    • Cutlass Supreme Convertible
  • Classifieds
    • W-body For Sale/Trade
    • W-body Wanted
    • Links and deals
    • W-body Auction Watch
    • Other For Sale or Trade / Wanted

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL











Found 246 results

  1. Okay the engine starts fine when cold. The engine starts fine when up to temp and restarting within 5 minutes of shutting it off. If the car sits for 15 minutes to 45 minutes, the engine will fire and then drop down in rpms almost stalling or it will just stall. If I give it a bit of gas when the engine fires and keep the rpms up for 30 seconds the engine will stay running. The car has had a complete tune up, new fuel pump, gas tank, fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure is good and steady. The intake gaskets and plenium have been replaced. TPS , MAP, MAF, Crank and Cam sensors have all been replaced. All vacuum lines have been replaced. No codes are being thrown. Anyone have any ideas?
  2. FAQ section maybe????? can put up instaalling instruttions too, but real easy one youve gotten it out 1st off... i most likely missed alot of steps, and ill will add as questions are answered, ect ect ect...... and check my spelling later too IT IS possible to remove your transmission without removing the subframe Alright, since i recently replaced took the Transmission out of my car, ill explain what i did. (getrag 284 transmission) NOTE this was with a 5-speed transmission, and i DID NOT have to drop the whole Subframe 1. I started off by Removing the battery from the car/ and removed the drive side brace (felt it was easiest that way) and i removed the hood off the car for more room 2. I took all the lines off the turbo, and then used a 13mm (or 1/2") rachet wrench to remove the bolts from the downpipe (5 of them) and then the 4 on the x-over pipe. the turbo has to be removed to acess the transmission bolts. 3. i then took off my x-over because i decided to header wrap it up real nice to keep the engine cool everything else is already done so it was planned 4. jacked up the front of the car on the subframe and used an impact to remove the front tires 5. put jackstands (3) on the frame of the car (not the subframe on the driver side) 6. removed the brake calipier from the driver side front rotor. and tied it to the hood hinge 7. (driver side) removed/ seperated the ball joint from the control arm, and then remove the strut from the car by taking the 3 strut bolts off (1/2") from the strut tower 8. Drained the transmission fluid 9. unpluged all sensors ect on the transmission, and removed the shifter cables from the bracket. 10. put a jack stand under the tranny, left 1 bolt in the tranny slightly loosened and removed all the rest (18mm) 11. removed dogbones from the top of the engine, leaving them on the dogbone mounts 12. went back underneath and removed the bushings from the driver side., had it jacked right the control arm on the subframe 13. slowly lowered the jack and the engine and tranny went on a nice angle. 14. removed 4 bolts off the tranny mount 15. removed that last bolt on the tranny 16. pulled and pulled until the tranny finally break loose from the engine 17. slid the tranny out the wheelwell.
  3. Hi all! I was just wondering, I have a ram air intake on my 3100 ls Monte and I had it fall down a few times now over bumps because it is freely hanging there, and its clamped fairly tight on there now but, and I was just wondering if I can just put a cone right on the TB? I know older muscle cars do it like Novas and there carbd but I was wondering if I can do that also? I have a O2 sensor and a mass air flow sensor and IDK if I can do this or not. I see when ppl install FWIs that they do not do these sensors? So can I just clamp a cone on my TB or no? Thanks in advance!
  4. The previous owner of my car changed the motor in my car, these are all parts from the donor engine, as far as I know, they are all good. There is a EGR valve, a map sensor and a whole host of other sensors, a fuel rail with 4 injectors, a ignition control module with 2 coils on it, a throttle body with the IAC and TPS attached, and some other goodies. I subtotalled all these parts and new they would be over $350. I'm tired of looking at this lot and doubt I would get much as eBay because no one seems to have any love for old w-body parts. These are all from a 90's 3100 and may fit other cars besides the w-body with the 3.1 engine. I will let the whole lot go for $45.00 plus whatever shipping will be to your zip code. Heck, a new EGR is that much!
  5. pshojo

    3100 Help

    I know this has been discussed before, and i really didn't pay much attention because i've not been in the situation. I have 1995 cutlass supreme 3.1 and giving my engine to a friend of mine that has 1998 buick century 3.1 that is knocking. I pulled both motors and the intakes look distinctly different and some of the sensors are different. Please help me as i'm trying not to miss anything. The EGR, Intake temp sensor, Knock sensor, exhaust manifolds, and fuel Injector harness under the intake looks like the connectors are different and will need swapped. Can i just swap the upper intakes? What else am i Missing? any other sensors, ?? Please help while the engines are out?
  6. Does anyone near me have a scan tool capable of getting 95 Buick ECM codes? I have been struggling with a check engine light for a while now, and now that spring is upon us, I would like it fixed for summer driving. The car is a 95 Buick Regal with a 3800. A few hundred miles ago, I started getting a SES light that comes and goes. At the time, it seemed random. At one point, I replaced a cracked EGR connector and thought that fixed it, only to get it again a couple weeks later. I have no idea what difference that made, but it did make it stop for around 10 days - maybe just a coincidence. It has started happening more and more often since then. Now it lights up every time the engine reaches operating temperatures without fail. Here is how it goes: At start-up, the light is on if it was on the last time the car ran. The light turns off during warm-up. The light comes back up a few miles away, right around the time the engine warms up. I imagine it is around the time it tries to go into closed loop. I am wondering if I am running in open loop full time because of this. I have replaced the oxygen sensor not too long ago (with a new bosch one). I have also replaced the EGR valve and connector (not new, but made no difference). I just replaced the TPS this morning and its connector because a couple of times I have gotten a sudden high idle in the past. Had no effect on the SES light. I would prefer not just switching out sensors till it is fixed, although with the fun OBD 1.5, that is a real possibility for me. I did try to use tunerpro to get some data from the computer, but this is the first time I have ever used it and so far I get some data, but it is erratic enough to call random. For the connection, I used RobertISaar's suggestion from another form for the USB cable. Like I said, not really an expert in tunerpro and have never tuned an EFI system before so I am not looking to do that, I just thought it would be an inexpensive alternative to getting raped by the local shops just to pull codes. I used the A and M pins for the connection. Only one other pin is used and I do not believe it has anything to do with the ECM. Now that your eyes hurt from reading my long post, does anyone around here have a tool capable of pulling codes from these cars? Comments and suggestions are also welcome. Thank you, Miller
  7. After some help, I am finally going with a burner/emulator from I have also read about using a wideband o2 sensor for increased reliability and feedback, etc. Better resolution. Has anyone here done this before? Which wideband o2 do you recommend? Is it computable with the stock ECM single wire input as long as it is tuned? I am planning on buying a 2 pod pillar and instating a turbo gauge and a air/fuel gauge. I have found many different wideband sensors and controllers from different suppliers, and Everything seems very similar to me, I'm just not sure if there is a specific one or something unique I would need. I'm just not sure if it is worth it to go wideband with a stock ECM, because the ECM still has to read the single wire input, from an adapter controller.
  8. Hey guys. Seeking some help. Got a 92 cutlass supreme with the 3.1. So im guessing its the first gen 3.1. Today i start it. Starts fine. Runs for about 30 seconds then shuts off as if i turned the key off. No sputter. No hesitation. I think hm thats odd. Go to start it and now all it does it crank and crank. No fire. Fuel pump is 3 years old. I can hear the fuel pump running so im thinking it cant be that. Also the fact of how it died. Seems to me like an ignition problem. Now how do i know if its an ignition module or one of those crank and/or cam sensors? Thanks guys.
  9. DTC C1221 LF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 DTC C1225 LF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation DTC C1232 LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted DTC C1245 Right Front ABS Channel Does Not Move I'm assuming there's an issue with the front left wheel speed sensor. Since they're non-serviceable (yay, GM!), I've got a new wheel hub ready to go. Can someone confirm which side is the left and right? I figured the driver's side is the left side but I can't be too sure. I previously checked and the speed sensor is plugged in with no noticeable break in the wiring; however, I didn't check the resistance at the speed sensors. I'm going to do that before replacing the hub. C1245 has me a bit confused. I'm hoping this problem is in conjunction with the wheel speed sensor issue. Does anyone have more information?
  10. There is a sensor mounted on the firewall with a hose going to the inner fender. It looks like a map sensor, but there is already one on the engine. What is it? Also there are two unconnected wires, one near the harness which hooks to the sensor in the intake duct, and one going to the harness going to the firewall.
  11. So quick question. I have a 97 3.4 Dohc with a getrag in my 87 Fiero. I found a guy who is selling a wiring harness from a 95 3.4 Dohc with a getrag out of his Fiero. My question is what differences connector wise and sensors are there between the two harnesses. He did add a map sensor to his harness already. Thanks
  12. 1999 Lumina 3.1 130k Code P0420 which has been cleared and a few times and just came back. It hasn't been an issue until now. I've already replaced the O2 sensor after the cat and cleared the code but it came back. I noticed too that after the first couple minutes after startup the RPMs would fluctuate up and down around 1k and then finally settle. Now the rpms at startup are fine but its not until about 10 mins later of it idling the engine starts to stumble and then finally fall on its face. It starts right back up like nothing happened and drives fine (feels underpowered when stomping on it though). On my Torque App for Android I was monitoring my O2 sensors voltages while this was occurring. The graph was showing its normal oscillating thing and then as soon as the engine starts to stumble the O2 sensor reading flatlines. What else should I look for on the Torque App and does this sound like its the cat? Thanks I should also mention I was having a problem with a vacuum leak (I'm pretty sure I threw a code for it) and replaced the PCV tube from the intake to the valve cover.
  13. Alright guys I've been working on a direct swap for the Higher Flow 3400 Throttle Body. You need the 3100 Throttle Body and 3400 Throttle Body to make it bolt up without the throttle cable swap. This is what I'm starting with. I'll post more pictures as we go. First off clean it up good. I used B-12 Chemtool and the grease just ran off. Then take all the sensors off and remove the plate. Take a hammer and ping the top rod where the TPS Sensor sits on. The rod has a pressed on washer so you have to tap it out. Do the same to your 3100 Throttle Body. Install the 3100 Rod back into your 3400 Throttle Body and put the 3400 Plate back in. The Throttle Cable Bracket needs a hole drilled for the 3400 Throttle Body that was repositioned and just drill the hole and bolt it on and hook it up. I will post more pictures before and after the port and polish tomorrow if I have time to do it. So far with the lack of a full guide online, I figured I would post it on here to help others. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. This is a 95 EGR with a GM stamped on the bottom 96-99 adapter for the 96-99 styled intake. Don't ask what specific car it came off of because I was in a Junk Yard in Mississippi with about 3000 cars in the woods lol top was ripped off from a wreck and all that was left was the engine transmission and frame with some Pontiac emblems and rims inside it they spray painted 1997 Pontiac on the frame with they're stocking number for part pricing. It was OBD2 because of the socket under the steering column and the MAF sensor. Now any idea what car this was? I'm planning on going back and getting this for a ObD2 conversion so I won't have to change as many sensors.
  15. Ok i just did plugs and wires on my 00 regal and it needed it very much one plug was missing the pieces one plug wire was broke and whoever did it befor me switched two cylinders so it had 4 out of the 6 cylinders not working right plus a clogged cat but i got it all fixed put new tires on it and went out this moring to see what it could do went to try buring the tires off and it kind of chocked out for a sec or two then it came out of it then took it to a straight away and got on it and again like chocked out into the end of 1st beggining of 2nd and proceded to stall out got it started again came back towards were i live and had to stop and rev it up some to get it to run right again stalled twice and is jerky off of a dead stop into kind of hard acceleration i need help please. Had codes ran low volt on maf sensor bad o2 sensors and had the misfires but i fixed the misfires as stated in the start of this thread. A friend suggested that it might be cecause it is wet today plus i had myy trac control on.
  16. Hey guys, Thinking of swapping a 3400 into my 89 cutlass. Car is currently a 5 speed and will retain it. I am uncertain what needs to be done. I've searched and haven't found very much. So either I suck at searching(possible) or it's not well documented. Here is what I know. clutch and flywheel from my 2.8 will bolt up to the 3400 Injectors: I'll either need to use my old ones, or re-wire for the ones from a 3400. ECU: if I run 2.8 injectors, I can get away with the stock 2.8 ECU/chip. If I swap to 3400 injectors I will need to be tuned for 3400 injector(was going to talk with ben WOT-Tech) Here is what I am wondering: What engine mounts and brackets will I need? Will I need to grab them all from a 3100 95-99 monte carlo? Alternator: I believe they use different plugs, and I will need to re-wire this? or can I bolt up my 2.8 alternator? Are there any other sensors that I will need to re-wire or change position? I am currently looking at a 3400 from a 2003 Impala. Is there a better year range to try and choose? Thanks in advance!
  17. I got to looking at some motors today. Could you put 3500 heads-non VVT matched to 3900 gaskets on a 3900 Block. Then match 3100/3400 lower manifold to the 3500 heads/gaskets. Bolt it all together and have a 3100 sleeper engine using the 3100/3400 sensors. Virtually having a Non-VVT 3900 running as a 3100/3400? Using the 3100/3400/3500 headers. Anyone ever attempted this? The parts should all interchange with some gasket matching with a dremel. I figured if you could do that, you could have the best parts of all those engines with a stock seeming setup. I don't want to hear about a complete swap, I want to know if there's any way you could do this Hybrid type setup with all these engines, since there setups are generally the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Hello everybody im new to the community but not the w body. I had a euro 3.1 half a dozen or so years ago. Man, I loved that car. It ran good for 300, 000 miles. Sensors craped out n I scraped it cause I didnt know any better. Now I got two cutlass Supremes. One a 93 3.1 4 door 230,000mi the other a 94 3.4 DOHC 2 door195,000mi. Just bought suspension parts for both. Bought sum of the tools for job. Lookin to put them to work so if u in area im pretty good with a wrench and cheaper then a shop. I like 90s era cars. The two door runs the four door needs timed after a head gasket change. Lookin forward to gettin to know everyone and the cars better. Also my name is steven my friends call me hippie.
  19. hi it's me again, probably don't know who...but..First time I drove alone on a long trip (I did trips that were longer with my dad, including driving the whole distance with a stick shift), but anyway, I drove to KY to visit my boyfriend, and I've taken a liking for this car. Got the car inspected and the wheels balanced, alternator tested- all that for my trip because my parents didn't want me to go with a bad car- like the Grand marq, it has bad o2 sensors. So last minute trying to fix the car, my parents are like "no, you need to take the tanturd, the merc has old tires", so it's dark and cold and I'm trying to get the buickready and I'm cursing at it cause I hated it..haha So a week later I'm taking a liking to this turd and having fun, sure it has half the horses, but it also has 100k+ less miles. So I'm going to try and buy it off my parents instead of the grand-yacht PICS Some random airplane park we stumbled across in bowling green Coolest thing I've ever seen in my life also, this was in Nashville, thing is massive and will turn my turd into a pancake. It was pushed Florida to Nashville TN by a little itty bitty tugboat!! Navigated through 3 lane streets, took about 21 days, it's about 3 semi trucks wide. 10 mother screwing gallons per mile. Shame I left my DSLR at home, I could have had fun shooting. Lol IMPORTED FROM CANADA! woo!! Got a little something for my keys...heh heh heh, yeah, it's dubbin hard now. LOL my bf rolled his eyes. He doesn't mind driving it though, I've been letting him all week use it to get to work since I blocked in his car, he says for transportation it's a great car..told him I wanted a glasspack, tinted windows/tails/smoked headlights, different wheels definitely..."If you want to drive a loud car, you have a key to the loudest car in the world.." Well you're no fun haha! Well, I've had so much fun but I have to head home tomorrow because my parents are making BS excuses about me needing to be home...
  20. Hello, I have a dead car. 1997 Grand Prix 3.8 L36. The car will crank but not start. I have spark, fuel pressure at the regulator(it is actually a little high) and the injectors are firing because the plugs are wet. I have a couple bullshit MIL codes (EGR and O2 sensors) but nothing that would prevent the car from starting. No live data is available because as soon as the key is turned to the on position connection is lost due to the key in the start position, at least on a Techstream tool. I am not sure if this car has VATS or Passkey, the key looks like a normal key and there is no security light. This is a strange issue. Anything that may have been overlooked?
  21. I have checked my vacuum lines for leaks, changed my MAP, TPS, and IAC sensors. It runs and idles at 1K. But when I put it in ANY gear it stalls out. I am at a loss on what it could be. Please help. Sent from my SCH-I415 using Tapatalk
  22. i was wondering is it possible to swap the rear drum setup on a 95 monte carlo to rear discs from a 95 regal? would I have to replace brake lines along with abs sensors? or would it be a more of a bolt on project.
  23. I attempted to replace the front ABS wheel sensors today. While I was able to unbolt the sensor, I could not figure out a way to wiggle it out of the space. Does this project require undoing the wheel bearing or is there a trick someone has found to squeeze it out?
  24. We've got the good ol' base model LE 92 Grand Prix and there's one in the local boneyard with the optional tach/voltage/oil gauge cluster. Our odometer is dead anyways and our shift indicator doesn't work so I have good reason to swap it for a replacement. Wonder if (as with other cars I've had) the cluster just swaps out and works (as it's prewired) or would I have to wire all sorts of stuff and add sensors?
  25. So recently, my 94 Cutlass 3.4 DOHC has been having this weird idle issue whenever I start the car. Once the engine is warm, it's all good but I have this weird feeling that the car is running rich at startup since there's a noticeable smell of gas whenever the car is started in the morning. It doesn't do this once the car is at normal operating temp (200F). I'm not sure if the car needs a new TPS or a MAF but I'm getting ready to change both. Now I've noticed that the MAF sensor on the 3400, the 3100, and I think the 3800 are the same style as the one in my 3.4 DOHC. So I must ask.... did GM use the same MAF on all of its engines? Would there be no issue if I went to the yard and got a MAF out of an Impala or a Grand Prix or are the MAF sensors different? All help is appreciated.
  • Create New...