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Found 536 results

  1. The Cutlass Supreme convertible top is a standard two-piece design. According to convertibletopguys.com: “Almost all Ford, GM and Chrysler convertible tops install as two separate units. They are the main top and the rear window section. This is the original design since the thirties and the design is fundamentally unchanged until much later…The rear window section is often called the ‘curtain.’†The original top on Cutlass Supreme convertibles was double texture pinpoint vinyl. When replacing the top, though, you have several options when it comes to materials (the following material explanations are excerpted in large part from 1aauto.com with some notes added and irrelevant material removed): Single Texture Pinpoint vinyl: This is the most common replacement material used for Cutlass Supreme convertibles. This is a good, durable vinyl that matches the grain of many original tops from the 40's to the 80's. This material weighs 36 ounces per square yard. The outside is a pinpoint vinyl while the inside is lined with cloth. Less expensive convertibles have been known to use this material. MOST aftermarket top seller's tout single texture vinyl as "the material the original OEM manufacturer used," when in fact most used double texture. To the untrained eye and hand it looks and may feel the same, but most cars that had a pinpoint vinyl top, built from the 40's to the 90's, used the double texture vinyl (Listed next). Although not the same, Single Texture Vinyl is still a good and commonly used replacement. It looks and feels nearly identical, will last almost as long, and for many restored vehicles that are garaged and covered, a single texture top could last 20 years or more if cared for properly. Double Texture Pinpoint vinyl (sometimes called Euro vinyl): 80% of Muscle cars and 40's - early 90's convertibles used double texture vinyl as the OEM material. The outside is a pinpoint vinyl while the inside is lined with cloth. Double texture vinyl weighs 38 ounces per square yard. The texture is a pinpoint texture nearly identical to single texture pinpoint vinyl. Double texture pinpoint costs a little more than the single texture pinpoint, however it is a more durable top and will last a few years longer. Single Texture Sailcloth vinyl: Many 90's convertibles such as Sebrings and Mustangs started using Sailcloth vinyl in place of pinpoint vinyl due to the fantastic texture. Standard interior color is black, gray interior cloth is available with some colors at an extra cost. The weight of Sailcloth vinyl is 36 ounces per square yard. Sailcloth vinyl material has a woven texture that resembles a "richer" cloth top. Color choices in Sailcloth vinyl are more limited than those in pinpoint vinyl. Stayfast Cloth: Stayfast is a tightly woven cloth canvas. The yarn is solution dyed BEFORE it is woven, creating a uniform color throughout. Domestic made or converted vehicles that came with a cloth top most likely used Stayfast cloth. Stayfast holds strong in both extremely hot and cold climates. Due to its richer look, Stayfast tops are more expensive. Stayfast color choices are limited and white is unavailable. Cutlass owners who want to give their car a more upscale appearance (and do not need or want a white top) have upgraded to a Stayfast top, and are almost universally pleased with its improved appearance/texture as compared to the original-style vinyl tops. When replacing the top, the window is almost always replaced as well. It is generally not recommended that you attempt to detach your existing glass window and try to re-use it. According to 1aauto.com: “Glass windows are bonded or heat sealed in to the vinyl or cloth surrounding them. It is very difficult to install just the glass in to a vinyl curtain and it will cost you about as much to have this done as it is for a brand new window and curtain. If your window and the attached fabric are in good condition, you can re-use them, but the vinyl may not match the new top.†It is possible to replace the top with one containing a plastic window, but this is not recommended, as plastic windows looks cheap, are very flimsy, and scratch easily. Please allow the Cutlass ‘vert to retain its dignity by using a glass-windowed top, and leave the plastic windows to the Geo and Cavalier ‘verts. When selecting a glass window with your new top, you will have the option of choosing one with or without a defroster. The headliner is usually re-used if still in acceptable condition. Same with the top pads and cables, though there is some difference of advice here. Some websites recommend new pads and side cables with every new top, and new rear cables with every other top, while other sites and installers say that the side cables and pads only need to be replaced when their condition warrants it. It’s up to you. Most convertible manuals indicate that the complete top install takes about 10 hours, 7 for the main top piece, and 3 for the “curtain†(the secondary piece that holds the window). Labor costs can range from $400 to $1000, depending on the installer’s hourly rate. Some shops may allow you to buy the top and bring it to them, but be aware that some will inflate their labor a bit to compensate for the lost profit from selling you the top through them, and also may not warranty the installation, since they can’t verify the quality of a top brought to them by a customer. This means that you would have to make sure it looked right before leaving the shop. Convertibletopguys.com give some excellent advice: “If you decide to "hire out" the job: * Go to your yellow pages. Look under "automobile seat covers, upholstery and tops." Select a couple of shops and visit or call them. You want to determine that is their policy to provide installation service on tops that are not purchased from the shop. * Many shops are dealers themselves and represent a top manufacturer and will not want to sacrifice this re-sale aspect of their profit. Be wary of any shop that disparages a product that it does not carry. Although it is true that quality can vary, no company should use "scare tactics" to get your business.†While it is highly recommended that you have the top installed by a professional, it is possible, with patience and the correct tools, to install the top yourself. Be aware that it will likely take an inexperienced installer several times longer than a professional. Convertibletopguys.com sells a universal two-piece top manual, and it is also possible to acquire an original GM instructional video for the Cutlass ‘Vert top that several have said was a real help when installing the top themselves. If you will be buying a top to take to an installer, or will be attempting the install yourself, you will need to decide where to get a top from. Here are just a few sources (that also represent a range of the brands available) that sell Cutlass ‘vert tops: Topsonline.com—They have the best prices found to this point, though their selection is a bit limited (for example, they don't offer sailcloth texture option). The tops they sell for the Cutlass 'Verts are EZ-on, the most widely sold brand. Their quality is considered to be good. Convertibletopguys.com—They sell tops as part of a kit that includes side cables and pads. Their tops are Kee Tops, supposedly a pretty premium brand (though one installer I contacted said that “they think a lot of their tops [because of the higher price] but I’ve never noticed that they were any better than EZ-onâ€). This site is well-known for their knowledge and customer service. Several have commented that they were pleased with their transaction. Kee tops are also sold on sears.com’s website here: http://auto.sears.com/Oldsmobile-Cutlass-Convertible-Tops/600025340-200743174-1994-10623.htm. 1aauto.com—Their tops are made by Acme Headliner, and are supposed to be pretty good quality. These tops, at present (3/09) are the ones most commonly seen on Ebay. EZsofttops.com—They also carry EZ-on tops. Their prices are higher than topsonline.com, but they have a wider selection, offering sailcloth tops in various colors, including the “Brite White†that is the correct color white color for Cutlass ‘verts. JC Whitney—They have historically carried Electron tops. Some sources say that this is the economy brand of convertible tops, though one installer I contacted did actually say they were is favorite because of how easy they are to install. Electron tops are also available through Electrontop.com and topsdown.com. Robbins Tops—arguably the highest end brand, they only sell the main top piece, not the curtain. Their tops are sold through regional distributors. Wherever you buy your top from, make sure it comes with a 5-year warranty. This is pretty much standard. If they don’t offer this, their tops are probably of lesser quality than average. Cylinders and pumps are still available from a few sources. One is http://www.hydroe.com/Oldsmobile_Cutlass.html. If anyone can think of anything else that is needed, let me know and I’ll modify this thread.
  2. ive read that they started installing heads with better ports and larger valves in 03+ 3.8s (that were still series 2) yet they still have the same 200hp rating. did the head swap affect the power curve w/o raising power peak? curious as im getting an l36 from an 04 impala thanks
  3. Okay the engine starts fine when cold. The engine starts fine when up to temp and restarting within 5 minutes of shutting it off. If the car sits for 15 minutes to 45 minutes, the engine will fire and then drop down in rpms almost stalling or it will just stall. If I give it a bit of gas when the engine fires and keep the rpms up for 30 seconds the engine will stay running. The car has had a complete tune up, new fuel pump, gas tank, fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure is good and steady. The intake gaskets and plenium have been replaced. TPS , MAP, MAF, Crank and Cam sensors have all been replaced. All vacuum lines have been replaced. No codes are being thrown. Anyone have any ideas?
  4. Ok folks, Got a toughie for you... backstory first, biught this 97 lumina with 78k on the clock(94k now), in august 2013... NEVER a problem till last month. reliable quiet chevy, like i like. 3100v6 4t60e on to the problem... start up the car and totally random it stalls... but it will fire right back up. and them die again... then it starts and the problem goes away for a few weeks, the BAM_O!!! does it again.. yesterday it did it to me and i mashed the gas and it stayed running. i proceded to drive it 25 miles with no problem. it only does this crap AFTER its warm. never cold.. up to normal temps. totally random.. not check engine light, i scanned it and no codes, the only this ive done to the car recently is july 2015 engine bottom mount oct 2015 trans mount nov 2015 alternator changed (old delco reman stopped charging)., and spark plugs. i went with the EXACT factory plugs and gap setting. december 2015 oil/filter. thats it! the car runs normal, same mpg's, same power the only, only! things different the stock are 2005 3400 throttlebody descreened maf (did this 2 1/2 years ago never a problem) and the duel outlet catback off a 98 3800 monte. thanks folks.
  5. It happens a couple minutes after starting, if I go in reverse or drive sometimes it'll stall out with out my foot on the gas. I changed plugs, wires, map sensor egr valve gasket, cleaned throttle body iac and egr, fuel pressure was normal, cant find vacuum leaks. Does anybody have an idea or have had this problem before? map sensor reads bad but I replaced it and tested the new one, code 33 is coming up, I used a multi meter at the plug and its getting 5 volts. Here's a video.
  6. Hey, W family. 1st & foremost...can't wait for the W-Body Nationals this year! 2ndly, my 92 3.1 is sputtering, sometimes to the point of stalling abruptly and spontaneously when hot. Some days it's perfect. Some days, it'll want to leave you stranded. My 1st thought was the new pos Airtex fuel pump is failing, because it has been whining loudly like a vacuum cleaner when hot. Now, I'm thinking FPR. It's showing 43 PSI w/key on, 37 at idle. When I pull the vacuum line to the FPR, 43 PSI again. Am I on the right track here to replace the FPR? Thanks!
  7. Hi. Today I started bleeding the brakes with my brother-in-law, after installing these days a new precharged accumulator. Started like its described in the haynes repair manual at the right front brake - all good. Then started bleeding on the right front brake. ( regularly checked the fluid level) But after approximately 15 minutes of bleeding, there is still air in the hose ? What could that be !? Currently Im pretty frusted with the brake problem.
  8. Has anyone on the forum installed accessory gauges? I have a Sunpro triple gauge kit that I want to put in my 1990 Lumina. It has water temp, volts and oil pressure gauges. If anyone has installed these before let me know. It looks like a pain !
  9. Hello all, I am considering of replacing my daily drive with possibly a nicely equipped 2002 Intrigue GL. I recently found out that the GLS models actually came with a kick ass rear view mirror and I am funding if it would be a plug in and play installation. I know there is a lot of info on this mirror but I am curious if it can be installed with out the use of extra wires. [h=2]GNTX-221[/h]
  10. I've searched the forum for an answer to my specific question, but couldn't find an answer, so here's my situation/question: I'm reassembling the top end on my 97' Olds GM 3100 V6, after being determined to replace ALL gaskets (timing cover, LIM, UIM, oil drive, etc) to prevent oil/coolant leaks. The quick disconnect pipe fitting that threads into the back side of the thermostat housing had a plastic fitting inside of it, and like others here on the list, when I removed the metal pipe from it at disassembly, the internal plastic parts came out in pieces. I pulled the pipe out, cleaned off the end of it, and set it aside for reassembly. I purchased a new pipe fitting that has all the new plastic internals, but here lies my question: How do I go about installing the pipe back into the fitting? Do I need to remove the quick disconnect plastic piece from the new fitting, slide it onto the end of my pipe, and then try to insert the pipe and plastic piece back into the metal fitting...OR....is it as simple as leaving the plastic quick disconnect sleeve in the metal pipe fitting and pushing the heater pipe into it until it clicks or something? I can't find anything that says how to specifically reassemble this. A second question is....do I need to put some sort of RTV on the end of the pipe before I try to reinstall it, or is there an internal o'ring (like mentioned in other posts) that will automatically seal once the pipe is installed? I want to do this right and only once! Thanks in advance!
  11. Hey guys, I've got a 2004 L67 out of 2004 Monte Carlo Supercharged SS, and I am considering installing a smaller diameter pulley on it. However, it does not have the studded nut which screws into the end of the supercharger shaft like my 2000 model L67 had. The supercharger shaft on the 2004 model is smooth on the end with no visible threaded hole. Is this just a plug which protects the threads in the end of the shaft, or is it made that way? Seems like it would be awfully hard to install the pulley without threads in the shaft.. Andy
  12. For those of us that don't have the option of installing a CS 144 without an engine swap this may be the next best thing. i just got of the phone with Brady, a tech with Powermaster Performance. He said they don't make a factory replacement, but offer two upgrades. The all new alternators are a direct replacement that use 1 internal and 1 external metal cooling fan (not a plastic fan like the factory CS 130). Option #1 p/n 7860 80amps @ 800rpm with factory pulleys, 105 amps Max - $149.97 at Summit Racing. Option #2 p/n 47460 95amps @ 800rpm w/ factory pulleys, 140 amps Max - $ 185.97 at Summit Racing. These may be cheaper elsewhere, I haven't checked yet, but wanted to post what I found. i will be replacing my alt. soon, hopefully before it fails, more than likely with option #2.
  13. I had my garnish moldings powder coated and will be re-installing. Does anyone have pics from when they removed theirs? I did it with my brother and he said he deleted the pics he took from the removal. That's what family is for!!
  14. So my GP never came with a rear license plate socket and I finally got pulled over for "having a bulb out." I gotta take care of this quick since its a local cop who patrols my neighborhood all the time. Where can I find the two wires to connect the new socket to? I've read multiple different answers on google and I just need to know where they are on a 95 GP. Actually has anyone done this before? A step by step would be awesome hahah.
  15. Just an FYI post. I recently had to replace the gas tank on my 1996 Gran Sport. The chick that had the car before ran something over and put a hole in it. It was patched but still weeped from the patch. I installed a new Spectra gas tank and the fit is okay. It does need a few tweeks with a hammer here and there to get it to fit properly. The tank comes with a new gasket. Throw it away and buy the AC Delco gasket. I installed the Spectra gasket and found that it would leak when the tank was full. When I pulled it, I compaired it to the AC Delco one. The Delco gasket is slight larger in diameter and of a harder rubber. The Spectra gasket is too flexable and will distort when installing the sender, causing it to leak. The Delco part number is 10152293 and costs $6 and change at Rockauto.
  16. After a failed attempt at the Moog K6544's (the white hockey pucks!), which made my camber too positive, I think I am going to try a pair of Dorman 31066's (http://www.amazon.ca/Dorman-HELP-31066-Spring-Insulator/dp/B000COCRB4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1402606961&sr=1-1&keywords=31066). My question is, how would I go about installing these on-vehicle? Is such even possible? Or does the whole spring have to come out?
  17. Awhile ago I fixed the wiring harness from rodent damage and installed a new intake manifold. in the midst of installing the intake I left one important part out of the equation...The PCV valve. Car smoked like a MF-er and the exhaust might as well been the equivalent of a fog machine on steroids. Ended up clogging the cateletic converter (BLAH ). Now it's totally shot and I'm wondering if I should just delete it. Lets be honest...Cats are damaged by crap that happens upstream in the engine. This is the second one that the car is on and I wanna not have to fool with putting another one in when it would be cheaper just to get a piece of pipe to delete it with. Thing is that if I delete the cat then thanks to the computer the engine will be running in this weird thing called "open loop" all the time causing it to run rich. Is there any way I can fool the computer into thinking that the cat still exists? I'd rather not fool with excessive aftermarket stuff. My car is OEM spec and I don't really want to tamper with it too much. I'd prefer to keep it as close as it was when it came off the assembly line. If there is a reliable way to delete the cat without any extreme aftermarket stuff then that would be easier for me to do. If I ever mod a W then I'll get another and do that pipe dream RWD conversion I've always wanted to do. With that in consideration I'm open to any and all advise and suggestions.
  18. Idk if this should be in car audio or powertrain but its for my stereo so im putting it here....Im looking at installing a second alternator in the location where my a/c pump was has anyone done this before if so pics please and if not any info on how to do it would be nice
  19. My 91 Regal 3.8 has a random issue with stalling while coming to a stop once and while. It very well maintained and I work as a assistant manager at Advance Auto Parts. So far in the past 2 years with a total of 5 years of ownership. AC Delco plugs, wires, coils, MAF, and fuel filter BWD TPS and IAC and cam sensor, New ICM harness, oil and filter changed at at 3000 everytime. PCV valve and air filter changed at every 12k. There are no vacuum leaks or wires unhooked. The only thing I can think off is the fuel pump is getting weak. I did an electrical test and found that the alternator has .54 ripple in it, and it will stall out if the everything is on and the engine is slightly reved.
  20. Hello, I need to replace my turn signal multifunction switch due to malfunctioning brake lights. I found a Cutlass in the junk yard that has steering wheel controls and I am wondering what I need and what I need to do to install it since the switch is compatible of the use of the controls. My cutlass came with just the most basic radio with the cassette player and I replaced it with the radio from the Cutlass in the junk yard. Any ideas?
  21. jc71corvette2

    Trans!!

    98. Gtp no mods 122k miles. Few weeks back my 1st gear sucked it shifted late but after first its gold. Now i think i have 2 probkems here. 1. Sometimes at a stop it stalls. I stop then when i let off brake it stalls. All the gears. Put in 1 and drives not stalling. I then shift up to d and all is fine. Sounds like tourqe converter prob? Also when car idles i have a nasty grinding sound. Can hear when it in 1-2 gear untill get at cruise speed. Those times wherr i have to start at 1 gear that noise is loud. Pretty sure these are related. I have a video of sound need to upload. View My Video 2. When driving afteer few minutes it sounds and feels like its in neatural. So i put in 3 and gets most the power back around 3000 rpm. No idea what this is. View My Video Fluid smells good. Up to level. Few weeks ago when i had that 1 gear problem i thought tps. I have codes but can't get reader untill later in week. Does this sound like tourqe conv circuit? I bet that's one of the codes. Sorry for bad typin. Doing thus on small keypad Car runs n drives fine after restart then acts up Sent from my LG-L38C using Tapatalk 2
  22. Hey guys, I've been taking leaps and bounds ahead with my car, so I'm starting to plan a pulley drop now. I'm kind of up in the air with which size though. I have Gen V supercharger, so from what I've ready the upgrade of going from a Gen III to a Gen V is like a 0.2 inch pulley drop in itself. For example: Gen III w\3.6 inch pulley=Gen V w\3.8 inch pulley, Gen III w\3.2-Gen V w\3.2, etc. When I ran an HAI, stock exhaust, and stock tune, I very rarely had 1 degree of knock retard. I now have SD headers, the same HAI, and still have a stock tune and since installing the header I haven't seen any Kr at all. I will be getting a tune before the pulley drop, I'm not too sure who to go with and there is NO ONE even remotely local to tune it in the car. So, I'll have to with a canned tune of some sorts...Anyone recommend a box tune? Also, I'm up in the air on which pulley I should go with, a 3.4, 3.5, or 3.6? I'm wondering if I could get away with a 3.4 without any intercooler. Thanks guys!
  23. Hi guys. On my 98 Regal GS, I installed a CAI. Well I helped to install it. Doing so required me to remove my Coolant bottle. I read that for the 1999 model year, the bottle was relocated to the passenger side strut brace. I considered purchasing a 99 Coolant bottle but unfortunately that is where the ABS unit is mounted on my 98. I also got a different type of rad cap that was required when installing the CAI. I know there's 2 main types of caps. It's not the OEM type but that 'other' one. I can't remember the name but it has a spring in its assembly. Anyway, as it stands, I have no recovery bottle. Just a hose that leads to the ground. I bought the CAI from another GS owner who's car had been KO'd and was parting it out. He knows these cars very very well and is a certified mechanic. He told me that with the cap and no bottle, he didn't lose any coolant in the 2 months he had it installed (new part) but recommended to check the levels every 3 months (I don't drive the car much anyway). My question is: Would you run a bottle anyway? What are my options? Neither a 98 or 99 + bottle will work. I would basically need a smaller bottle to mount somewhere out of the way but wonder if I need one at all? Where to buy one? Or do you think the cooling system will be ok without the bottle? Thanks
  24. Has anyone been successful in removing and re-installing a (re-covered) headliner without removing front or rear glass? I'm looking for direction... for when I finally gear-up to do the job on my 90 Lumina. Thanks!!!!!
  25. So I bought a shift knob from a GTP that has the High Performance shift button on it. I'll be installing the HD version of the 4t65e when I install the engine that is now in process. The PCM has the correct tables in it. I'm wondering how to wire it up. I would assume that it is an on off in the PCM harness. Anybody have experience with this? I would think it would not be that difficult but need some information on the task. I was told that there was an actual "kit" at one time but have not found the source. Thanks in advance for your input. Update: So I tried to post this to the original as an answer but it's not letting me do that for some reason. Anyway. I found what is apparently an answer here http://www.midwest3800.com/forum/kb.php?mode=article&k=241&sid=f2d6ed663762ca199a2742e77a443a9c I have not tested this so I will not personally say it works, but it sure looks like a good answer.
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