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Found 1,891 results

  1. I am turning this over to Jake - 94CutlassVert. Okay, here's the deal. Crazy K and I are researching and building a private database of convertibles. This database will consist of VINs, exterior, interior and top colors, options, original wheels, ect. So what we need from our convertible owners is your VIN (you are welcome to leave off the last 3 or 6 digits if you are uncomfortable with giving us the entire VIN, no one will be using this info except for us to find out what options your car originally came with via a GM parts department. I, or we, will be more than happy to send you this printout if you like!) Your car's info will not be given to ANYONE else. It will simply go on a spreadsheet format that I have created and the printouts will be kept in my files. Many classifieds websites encourage sellers to add the VIN so people may run a BatFax! type report so there's something to think about as well. Even better will be a clear photo of the door jamb sticker (located on driver's door) and SPID label (located in trunk on the spare tire cover.) Also, convertibles you see in the junkyard, on dealer lots, for sale, ect...If you are able to, take down the VIN for us, we can obtain the RPOs and build date from there. Please send a private message (it will be deleted after obtaining the info) to 94CutlassVert with your VIN, build date (both of which are located inside the door jamb, check you VIN to make sure the car's door hasn't been replaced some time in it's life, send both VINs if so), colors & photos. I'd like to keep this post unclutterd, so just a PM will do. Thank you!!
  2. WTB - all 4 pieces of the carpeted material that lines the trunk of a 1996 Cutlass (2 molded wheel-well pieces, piece between the tail lights, carpet that goes on top of the spare tire). I have tried to salvage mine but a prior owner got something on them so nasty, so foul and of course (it had to be) so permanent that I've given up on trying to save them. The bottom carpet has already been tossed, the rest are soon to follow. Would rather put up with road noise than that horrible smell of whatever it was that caused it. Would like these pieces to be unstained & undamaged, thanks.
  3. Does any one know where I can find convertible top seals and weather stripping for a 1992 olds cutty drop? All of mine are completely worn out and cracked. These are the only parts I am having a hard time locating even on the web. Thanks in advance.
  4. Apparently sunroof optioned Monte Carlos and Lumina are quite rare, and I am having a hell of a time finding a replacement motor for mine. Are there any other models with sunroof motors that will work? Or even a hand crank? Not to mention finding another Monte Carlo with a good sunroof headliner is going to be nearly impossible, but I doubt headliners will be interchangeable.
  5. My dad made the comment that i should grab a second car so im not feeling rushed when wrenching on the monte. I agreed. Been poking around and actually found two nice cars i actually like. 2001 regal gs Pros-clean as hell, most parts interchange with my monte, ive actually wanted a regal for a while, will make a good candidate for a regal 2-door conversion idea i had(hehehe) Cons-they have a price a lil high on it, previous body repair. 2008 impala ss Pros-5.3 , good color scheme(red/black), eeven cleaner than hell, decent price, would b an eventual ls4 donor for monte after car is beat up and the trans dies Cons-little interchange with monte, before mentioned trans weakness, more expensive parts Kinda leaning towards regal even tho the impala is a better deal
  6. I have a 93 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible that has the type of steering wheel that contains the radio and climate controll functions. The horn pads on these types of steering wheels alre well known to wear out and the horn will start beeping even when your not hitting the horn button. Most people just pull the fuse and that's it. Well, I have found a solution to this problem. The problem is that in between the horn contacts on both the left and right side of the steering wheel have this piece of material which is like a cardboard like material which compresses and literally crumbles away. When this happens, the horn contacts come in contact with one another and as a result, the horn starts beeping on its own. Well here is the fix... 1) Remove the horn pad 2) Pull back the left and right side of steering cover 3) Bend the contact pins straight and remove contacts 4) Go to your parts store and by a cork gasket making material. The type you would make your own gaskets out of 5) Trace your old pad onto the cork material and cut out 6) Reinstall the contact, contact cover, and horn pad Its a perfect fix. If you have any more questions let me know. I can also email pictures as well
  7. 127k. Originally a Texas car, no rust. Starts right up, runs and drives but has been sitting for almost a year. Interior is very clean and in good shape other than some rips on the leather driver's seat and a sagging headliner. Body damage on the right side. The sunroof, cassette player, a/c do not work at this time. I've had the car since 2009 and before that it was owned by an older woman. I have many extra parts from a '92 including 2 doors, hood, trunk, 4 extra alloy wheels and tires, bumper, lighting assembly, etc can be included depending on what you need. All parts are totally rust free. I also have a brand new OEM driver's door handle, fog lights and grille included. $900 Unique reliable car that needs a little work. Very close to road-ready condition. It will need to be towed and is located in Westchester County, NY
  8. So I have been trying to trace a front end clunk ever since I've had my 99 Regal and have yet to be successful at all. I realize that this is a common problem with a lot of 2nd gens so I'm starting a poll to see what the most common cause of clunking was. It seems like it does it whenever the car is cornering and it hits a bump or something. It's more noticeable when the car has more than just one person in it. It is driving me insane!!! So far I have replaced: -outer tie rod ends -all 4 struts, springs, and mounts -all 4 motor mounts -both front control arms with new ball joints and bushings. Did this twice, first with Moog, then with ACDelco parts thinking this was the culprit. -front sway bar with 34mm bar and polyurethane bushings. I have also greased the Intermediate Steering Shaft(ISS) multiple times because it seemed to help the first time. I cheaped out on the tie rods last time so now the next thing I'm gonna do is replace all 4 tie rods with Moog problem solvers and hopefully they'll last the rest of the life of the car. I'm contemplating replacing the subframe with an aluminum subframe and new subframe bushings. I'm also considering replacing the steering rack while I'm at it and switching out the ISS for a junkyard shaft. Any ideas? If you had this problem on your car and fixed it, please vote what the cause was.
  9. Well, since the TGP had KYBs and the sleeves I have wont fit the Gabriels I have had on the CS, I had some time to play with the coilovers. Sure enough, the sleeves fit the KYBs no problem.. The mount has been the other thing that has kinda plagued me, so I was working on a custom mount when I discovered the mounts on the KYBs will WORK!! And they are prolly the best route to go with no modifications needed. So, I have the coilovers assembled and ready for the car. I have pics on my camera and will update in a couple hours with the simple step by step, the exact parts I used and links to buy them, and the cost of everything. Needless to say, the price will smoke Helds price anyday And quality over Helds, no difference, but the mount is better because its not so solid like Helds. The mount NEEDS to take some force instead of the strut rod directly tranferring it to the body. Using the stock mount justs adds a bit more needed cusion without sacrificing handling. I know Held uses a strut rod bushing in the upper mount. They are HARD as hell. -Bob
  10. For anyone not aware, I had bought a TGP in October, 2013 which had a few minor needs. I was chipping away at small projects. I bought a parts car a couple months ago. On July 21, 2014, my TGP burned out due to a PMIII accumulator failure. So now the parts car has become the fixer-upper. So I will update this tread as I finish little projects. It's not in horrible condition. I may sell it soon, as I found one with lower mileage that I might pick up. Here are some pics from when I brought it home : The closer one is the one that burned, the one towards the left is the one I have still.
  11. Ken had told me that there was a place manufacturing these. Im looking for the eyebolt that sits on top of the cylinder for the top. It screws onto the end of the cylinder. Yes, I know you can purchase the whole thing, but im not going to replace the cylinder, if it still works. I had gotten some from the yard this weekend from a cavalier z24, however the inside diameter of the machined bolt part is too small. If anyone can point me in the right direction i would be greatly happy.
  13. So the title pretty much says it, the fluid is coming from the brake piston and is all over the pad and the disc. I always seem to have leaky rear brakes regardless of the brand of re-manufactured or new (when they where available) parts. is there something better i am just missing? and can the tool that is used for re setting the ebrake be rented at a parts store? thanks
  14. Ok, I am cleaning out the garage and basement, and just want these parts gone. I am open to all offers. If you make an offer, shipping will be calculated after. OEM GM 3.4L intake manifold gaskets Convertible top switch Oldsmobile alero/intrigue key cyl L67 supercharger coupler GM 6 disc ch changer magazines 2001 Grand Prix Dealer brochure LTZ/Z34 center cap 1st Gen Seat Belt Extender Headlight/HUD Switch OEM GM Z34 badges GM 10 disc changers. 1 - 97, 1 - 94. 2 door door handles inner parts PN found on them Gentex Mirror 267 Donnelly with map lights G6 mirror And for a really rare one, an Add-on On-Star attachment on a GNTX-177
  15. What does GM call this part? Yes, where all the rust is right by the wheel, but not the rocker panel. Body shop 'slang' seems to call it a 'dog leg', but I haven't been able to find reference to such in the sheet metal parts lists. For some reason, Chapter 11 in my 1992 Cutlass Supreme manual only has sheet metal diagrams for the Convertible.
  16. I have an LQ1 out of a 92 Z34 5 speed which I will be taking to the scrap yard sometime this week. If anybody wants anything off of it let me know. Selling stuff cheap.
  17. Hello all, I still have my 1990 TGP, been driving it off and on but it mostly sits because PMIII has been acting up. I was wondering if there is still a place you can purchase any of these parts new? I would like to get a new pressure switch for it. If any of you have a good used one laying around I would take that off your hands as well though. I plan on also replacing all the relays on it. Motor is still good and so is accumulator. With my second Gen GTP blowing up the other day I am parting it out and might as well put all my efforts into this car. Thanks for any and all input!
  18. I literally just need a few small parts to have 100% everything I need to do August's 5 speed swap. I need: clutch fluid reservoir, preferable with hose, but I can take care of that. Rubber grommets to go on the firewall plus the metal retaining ring, this is for 282. the grommets for a 284 are probably not compatible due to the larger shift and select cable sizes. I'll have to 100% verify that. 284 retaining ring is the same part. let me know how much shipped to 16001 Thanks -Chris
  19. 92 Cutlass Supreme needs some rear struts, and I know KYB's are favorites around here, but they are very expensive. Can pick up two Monroe OE Spectrum(Sensatrac) struts for 28.99 each shipped. The Monroe strut mate mounting kit 902941 Napa branded for $17.00 each shipped. Two complete rear struts with all new parts for $92 to my door sounds like a good deal to me. Just have to assemble the strut mate kit, and it will be a fully assembled ready to mount strut. What you guys think? I know KYB has a good reputation, but money is talking.
  20. COMPLETE FOR PARTS - 1993 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible $800.00 Complete Must be towed from Lancaster, PA I've owned the car since 2012, and have since put over $6,000 in parts and repairs: New Convertible Top in 2012 New Kenwood Stereo & Speakers in 2012 Trailer Hitch & Wiring in 2012 New Plugs & Wires in 2013 New Radiator, Thermostat & Hoses in 2013 New Control Module in 2014 New Michelin Tires in 2014 (30% current wear) New Battery in 2014 New Air Conditioning Compressor in 2014 New Ignition Switch & Cruise/Wiper Controls in 2014 New R/H Power Mirror in 2015 3.1 Liter V-6 runs strong and burns no oil. Transmission shifts smoothly. Car has 129k miles. A few minor dents. No rust. The car passed PA Inspection in May, 2015. An electrical short in the wiring harness initiated a contained fire at the inside fuse box, which is beyond my ability to repair. Otherwise, everything was working fine. I will provide a salvage title.
  21. Heartbeat1991


    I am in the process of rebuilding Galen's TGP transmission. He had no 4th gear. After taking it apart, it's obvious why. The 4th gear clutch was all tore up. I never seen one like that before. But I don't have a lot of 4T60 experience either. The clutch material was gone. It was all metal to metal. The confusing part is that the clutch teeth were bent up pretty bad and the whole things seems to have been spinning in the outside of it's carrier. ( See pics ). I have yet to do much digging for parts. . .But, does anyone know if that clutch career is going to be ok to re-use? And what caused this? What else should I be looking for? It seems to me that something had to have been bound up to cause this. But I have no idea how.
  22. 282 intermediate shaft bracket - $15+ shipping OBO ( This does have a crack, but relif hole has been drilled ) 5spd pedal bracket - $40 shipped - OBO (1994) ABS VI - $50 shipped- OBO 1994 Brake booster - $20 shipped OBO 5spd firewall plate $100shipped OBO 10mm fulcrum roller rockers, full set, $50shipped OBO 2.5" Vibrant exhaust resonator ( details in the link ) used for about 1,000 miles, still in great shape, can provide pics, $30shipped OBO Can provide pictures upon request. I know Ive got more stuff to get rid off, but Ill have to check and see what I have.
  23. The previous owner of my car changed the motor in my car, these are all parts from the donor engine, as far as I know, they are all good. There is a EGR valve, a map sensor and a whole host of other sensors, a fuel rail with 4 injectors, a ignition control module with 2 coils on it, a throttle body with the IAC and TPS attached, and some other goodies. I subtotalled all these parts and new they would be over $350. I'm tired of looking at this lot and doubt I would get much as eBay because no one seems to have any love for old w-body parts. These are all from a 90's 3100 and may fit other cars besides the w-body with the 3.1 engine. I will let the whole lot go for $45.00 plus whatever shipping will be to your zip code. Heck, a new EGR is that much!
  24. I'm taking parts off my '95 GPSE donor car to put on my less well equipped '95 GPSE. What must I be sure to take to make the cruise control works beyond the control stem and actuater box under the hood? And will I find a plug in place for the extra controls on the stem? Also, is there an easy way to get the trunk remote control button out?
  25. Hey guys I'm new here, just trying to sell an engine. I picked this motor up a few years ago as a backup but I've got no use for it now as I sold the Monte Carlo I had. The motor is a complete 1991-1993 long block, from cylinder heads to oil pan. It includes every engine sensor, water pump, and alternator all brand new. There is not a used part on this engine, not even a bolt. I will include a box of used parts with the motor, along with the factory service manuals for the engine. There is a 91-93 lower intake manifold, fuel rail, 2 sets of fuel injectors, upper intake manifold, engine cover, and several (Maybe 4-5?) valve covers. Shipping is on you. I can build a crate for the engine and have it sent via freight, or you can drive out to Denver, Colorado and pick it up. Price is firm at $1,200. Thanks!
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