Intlcutlass Posted July 12, 2006 Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 I am taking next week off of work to paint.....I have read till my eyes popped out of my head, I have prepped as much as I can, and purchased good- to great quality products.... Here's my list: Evercoat Rage Gold Kirker Epoxy sealer Marhyde Ultimate 2k Urethane high build primer Dupont G9900s “Super Jet Black†SPI universal clear 3M rubbing Compund & pollishing compound (Perfect It II) For those who are interested in the steps that will be taken.... Tape off panels I will be working on. Remove any molding, lights or anything that shouldn’t be painted. Green tape and plastic sheeting. Take off inner door panels, tailights, headlights, and moldings. Disconnect battery. Sand down the entire panel using 40 grit, Down to the metal. Palm sander is fine. This can be done in the driveway. Wipe down that panel with wax/grease remover. Bondo/Bodywork. Fill in low areas/dents with “Evercoat Rage Gold†Anything deeper than ¼†should be pulled out. Blocksand to shape- (Dry) 80 grit in an X pattern – enough to get the shape correct. Use Durablocks sanding blocks. Repeat as necessary. If shape has been attained with the 80 grit, move to 150(ish) grit,using first guidecoat, and using Durablock in an “X†pattern. Note: When spraying ANYTHING, start at the roof, tape everything off so overspray does NOT hit lower panels. Spray Epoxy primer/sealer. Use “Kirker Epoxy Primer†–2 wet coats, then wait for 3 hours before applying High-build primer. Prime with a high build primer/filler.Use“Marhyde 2k Highbuild Primer†1.7 tip on the primer gun. 2 wet coats… Wait 2 days to do any more work. The fillers and primers may shrink some in this timeframe, and waiting this period will avoid “Picturingâ€Â- Keep it in the garage and out of the rain. Apply a Guidecoat Blocksand- 320-400 (wet) Sand with Durablocks in an in an X pattern Apply a Guidecoat Blocksand- 400-600 (wet) in an “X†pattern with sanding blocks, and wash it to remove all the dust and pariculates. – Let the car dry, wait overnight before proceeding. Put the car in the garage. Clean everything! Wet the garage floor, Set up a plastic tent in the garage with filtered ventilation. A box fan with a furnace filter on it will work well. Basecoat time-2 coats of Dupont G9900S Super jet black with a 1.3 tip on the Astro gun Clearcoat- 3 coats of SPI universal clear # 4000-1. Leave the car in the garage for a day before removing. Let that cure for about a week before wetsanding. Wetsand- Start with 1500, then 2000. Tape off all edges to avoid burning through the clear. Rubbing compound- 3M rubbing compound “Perfect It II†on their white waffle pad. Make sure to use water when buffing. Wash the car Polish the car using 3M Polishing compound “Perfect It II†on their black waffle pad. Make sure to use water when buffing. Wait 2 weeks before waxing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 12, 2006 Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 So.... you ever gonna post pictures of your car? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted July 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 After paint... The suspension ... I wanted to , but everytime I have a few free moments with the camera... it starts downpouring. Don't forget too.... Full time job , asst coach my boys baseball team, wifes honeydoo list.... Time is limited.... thats why I am taking next week off... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 12, 2006 Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 Ahh.... well, looks like you have a plan set. Hopefully a week will give you enough time to have everything prepped, and give you enough time to spray. If I were you, I would spray and sand as soon as the last coat you did is dry. Whether it be 3 in the afternoon or 4 in the morning, that way you have enough time to get everything done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted July 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 Ahh.... well, looks like you have a plan set. Hopefully a week will give you enough time to have everything prepped, and give you enough time to spray. If I were you, I would spray and sand as soon as the last coat you did is dry. Whether it be 3 in the afternoon or 4 in the morning, that way you have enough time to get everything done. I'm gunna start Friday after I get outta work, and if I stick to my schedule... I should throw the last coat of clear down Friday, exactly 1 week later. Rubbing and buffing 2 weeks after that (on a weekend). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted July 12, 2006 Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 You better damn well post pictures like you said! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 12, 2006 Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 Sounds like you are giving yourself plenty of time. Have you painted before by any chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted July 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 Sounds like you are giving yourself plenty of time. Have you painted before by any chance? Nope.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 12, 2006 Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 Sounds like you are giving yourself plenty of time. Have you painted before by any chance? Nope.... Shouldn't be too bad for ya. I'm sure you've practiced with your gun a few times to get a technique down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 Ok here's two things ive noticed in your write up that arent quite right. 1) You should clean the area with wax/grease remover before you sand. this way you dont drive the gunk into your surface. 2) do not wet your floor while laying the paint. dry dry dry, always a dry room. other than that everything looks kosher to me. read here, and try to ignore the dumb ad. lots of information here. http://www.neilslade.com/Papers/Painting.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 You want a wet floor to keep the dust down. Hell, professional painters(high end jobs) actually have water misters in there paint booths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 Is the water to trap silicone or other wax/oils to prevent fisheyes in the paint? Keep any tire shine, Armorall or any wax products away from your work area. The 3M PF-II stuff should be good, but the new Perfect-It 3000 stuff you don't need to use any water. See the 06050 kit, that's what I bought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95oldsVan Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 Hang any loose/removed panels and spray them as IF they were on the car..if you dont you may see possible color differences in certain lights. I learned that from a shop I worked at...if they removed a door or fender,they would stand it up as if it was on the car and paint it that way.Keeps the paint looking even all around.Laying said parts flat on stands or etc makes the color look off somewhat when the parts are final assembled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted July 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 Ok here's two things ive noticed in your write up that arent quite right. 1) You should clean the area with wax/grease remover before you sand. this way you dont drive the gunk into your surface. 2) do not wet your floor while laying the paint. dry dry dry, always a dry room. other than that everything looks kosher to me. read here, and try to ignore the dumb ad. lots of information here. http://www.neilslade.com/Papers/Painting.html You HAVE to mean wax and grease remover after I sand. The whole point is to remove contaminates prior to laying paint/primer/filler.... Also, I would wet the floor first, then pull the car in, then shoot. If you spray while your painting, you/I could get dropplets on the car...as noted before... it's just to prevent dust kick up. Hope I understood your questions right....I have been on that website before (your link), but the problem is "some" of the information is old. When he says not to wet your floor, thats because he is not refering to a 2 part product. He is refering to air dry urethane. There are some good suggetions on there, but there is much more and better info here: http://www.autobody101.com/forums/ To 95oldsvan.... I think that when people run into that problem, it's when they are spraying metallics...If they spray that while parts are laying flat, then they mount them on the car, it will never look right because the metal flecs in the paint will not be sitting the same way they would if you were to shoot with the panels on the car. I am shooting solid black.....BUT EVEN SO.. I am NOT taking any panels off the car to shoot. Just the lower silver cladding the Cutlass Intl's have cause those are silver... C-bad---It's just to prvent dust kick up while spraying... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebojsa_o Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 Sounds like quite the project... Good luck with it all, and take your time, it will look sweet!! Also, make sure you take a buttload of pictures as you go, and then when it's all done, post pictures of the car before, car during, and car after. Can't wait to see this!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 Well im not a professional painter so im not going to say that im right and ur wrong, but everywhere that I read people say that they switched from wet to dry and noticed an improvement. also seems that weather plays a big part in this too. here's a link to a good discussion about this topic. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/do-you-wet-floor-before-painting-79606.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted July 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 I have read the arguments.... Actually... Barry K from that link you posted is the owner of the place where I purchased my clear coat!!!LOL!!! I think the humidity problems they are refering to is from using too mush water.You don't want to wade through 1" of water to shoot... It's just a quick shot, Then roll the car in the garage... From the amount of people on that thread wo all stated they had been doing it for 40 years and never had a problem, I think I will do it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Posted July 17, 2006 Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 update? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 17, 2006 Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 I think it was this week he was going to do it, so I don't think there may be any updates for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Posted July 24, 2006 Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 update? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebojsa_o Posted July 24, 2006 Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 I think it was last week he was going to do it, so I don't think there may be any updates for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted July 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 Pics to come... I have to yank em off the camera I will stick em on a CD and upload them tomarrow...( I do it from work-vs-dialup at home) There were 3 nights last week I didn't go to sleep at all. Tues, Thurs and Fri.... I stripped it down to bare metal. That took a while.... Primed it (epoxy primer) , then did my bodywork, more high build primer, more blocksanding, then more epoxy primer, I blocksanded the fuck out of it to make sure my panels were all strait. everything on the bottom half of the car, and been POR-15'ed. I did everyplace UNDER the Intl ground FX. Well, then when I went to shoot my base coat , I had runs and sags in just about every panel... so now I have to wetsand and shoot them again...I didn't even bother to shoot the clear, so right now it kinda looks like a flat finish. When that happened, I was pissed off, disappointed in myself,embarrased, and nearing a a complete breakdown (probably do to a lack of sleep). I am thinking this time to tape it off so that I can just shoot 1 or 2 panels at a time... I think that would make it easier to manage....That will eliminate overspray problems, and issues with dust. Also , I did take pics of the suspension like I said I would... Who can host them for me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloChick Posted July 24, 2006 Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 http://www.photobucket.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 24, 2006 Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 Hey, as they say, practice makes perfect. Don't worry about the runs and such, it's all repairable with a little wetsanding. Glad to hear that most everything else went good for you, and sounds like you did a good amount of prep work, which does make or break a car. I bet with a little bit of touchup, it will look great. Just keep at it, and you'll do fine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted July 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 http://www.photobucket.com My work has blocked that one.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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