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  1. The BLUE connector is C1. Wire A = a RED wire. Connect it to an ORANGE wire that is HOT ALL OF THE TIME. (I connected mine to the ORANGE wire that gives power to the cigarette lighter, but it is recommended that you connect it to the ELEC. Fuse #2 constant +12V (top row, middle fuse).) Wire B = PINK/BLACK. Connect it to a wire that is HOT IN RUN. (I connected mine to one of the PINK/BLACK wire in my dash, but it is recommended that you connect it to CLUST. Fuse #9 switched +12V (3rd row, far right).) Wire C = BROWN. Connect it to the light on input. In my car I have a YELLOW wire in slot C10 but I think that that is exclusive to the digi-dash. I want to soy that there should be a YELLOW wire coming out of the headlight switch that should work. I know that on my dash, when the lights are on, and the display is at MAX, then it has no power in the wire, but when I adjust the lever down, the wire becomes hot, and dims steadily. I use a tester that is just a screwdriver looking thing that has a point at one end, and an alligator clip that you hook up to ground. Wire D = GREY. Connect this to one of the grey wire for illumination. I hooked mine up to the GREY wire that lights up the bulb for the cigarette lighter light. Wire E = BLACK/WHITE. This is a ground. Wire F = BLACK/GREY. This wire is not used. Wire G = YELLOW. Connect this wire to the LITE BLUE wire in the dash (You may not have this wire). This is your English/metric wire. In my car, I push a button on the dash to change it from English (MPH) to metric (KPH). When this wire is hooked up, it automatically changes the DIC display from one to the other when the E/M button is pushed on the dash. This is a wire that is not necessary for the DIC to function, so if you do not have the wire, then just leave it unconnected. Wire H = BLACK. This is a ground. I hooked this up to the BLACK wire connected to the cigarette lighter light. The BLACK connector is C2. Wire A is ORANGE. Connect this to the ORANGE wire coming out of the ALDL connector under your dash. This is your SERIAL DATA INPUT where the DIC will get the info for your gauges button. Wire B = DARK GREEN. Connect this to the DARK GREEN wire in the dash. This is your Vehicle Speed Input. In my car it is wire number D15. Wire C = PINK. Connect this one to the PURPLE wire in the dash. This is your vehicle Fuel sender wire. In my car it is wire number D13. Wire D = BLACK/GREEN. This is another GROUND. It is not used in the 91 model. Driver Info System was not available 92+. You will not find a new cutlass with one. If you put one in your car, then it will go where the storage cubbyhole is under the ashtray. The screw-holes for the 98 Regency’s DIC is identical the Cutlasses, so it will go there with no problem. If you get the DIC out of a Cutlass, then be sure to get the storage pocket as well. IF (OR WHEN) you get the HUD, then the control switch will go where the storage is. 89-90 cars got a little pocket in the empty space. HUD control panel was mounted above the headlight switch (below the dash pad). 91 cars got a little pocket if they didn't have HUD. Cars with HUD got the control panel instead of the pocket. Is your headlight switch up high next to the speedometer with the foglight switch next to the air vent? If so, then the HUD switch goes in the pocket. My car headlight switch is located next to the vent, with the foglight switch next to the speedo. (INT'L models also had the BASS BOOST switch as well as the foglight switch) But I will still put the HUD switch next to the DIC.
  2. Would anyone happen to have a set of 2nd gen Grand Prix tail lights they are willing to part with? I haven't found any decent ones at the junkyards. After market or factory does not matter so long as they don't have any cracks.
  3. Got a 92 olds cutlass supreme convertible and a few years back the fog lights just stopped working. I notice a lot of the same cars on the road have their fog lights off so not sure if this is a normal problem or not. And yeah i know its not the sealed beams themselves because Ive changed them. Anybody got any pointers?? thank ya:thumbsup:
  4. Am I going to have to actually go into a store and talk to people face to face? Please say no...I just want to order them online like a good introvert.
  5. I have an oldsmobile cutlass supreme 94 3.4L v6. The problem is that when I turn on the low beam headlight the voltage meter goes down almost to 8 volts but the thing is that when I switch to the hig beam the voltage goes up and turning other things also makes voltage change but sometimes it goes down. So I think that the alternator was bad and I made this test. With the car turn off I switch the lights on and nothing happend the voltage was good about 10 volts but suddenly when I change to low beam voltage drops and lights and everything almost went of. So I turn off the lights and the voltage went up again. I ve tried this several times and sometimes it happens and sometimes not. I think theres something wrong when I switch the headlamps because when they are off the voltage is good over 13 volts with the car on. I don t know what could cause such drain in the battery without blowing a fuse or something. What can I do? Thanks
  6. It's been awhile since I've been here. Family, work, etc = no time. Question on my 99 Regal. How do I disable the automatic lights? I'm OK with the DRL's being on but if they vanish with disabling the auto lights then that's fine too. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
  7. My mother's 98 Lumina LS, all the lights turn on, but the Lights for the Guages, Fuel, RPM, Speedometer, And Temp arnt comming on, went ahead and serviced the 3 fuse boxes and replaced all the fuses and cleaned all the terminals, replaced all the bulbs in all the sockets, in the cluster, A/C controller, and door switches. Can't figured out what's making the lights not come on. What's left to check? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. So these came on my car when I bought it and as luck might have it, my Dad decided to buy some new ones for my mom's GP, so I am getting her stock set. The tail lights are on the car and are in great shape, I am asking $90 plus shipping and paypal fees, I will have mine off this week, or this weekend. I am firm on the price as they are in great shape. They are these ones. I will get pictures up by tonight.
  9. I"ve got a 97 GTP that I took to Vermont with me to go snowboarding yesterday, and the interior lights started coming on when I would hit a bump and turn off again when I would hit another bump. I eventually figured out that if I jerked the car to the right they would turn off (I'm not joking haha). Does anybody know what could be causing this? Earlier in the day I had been sitting in traffic for a good 30 minutes and the car overheated and the problem started occurring maybe 20 minutes after that, so I'm not sure if there'd be any relation there. Any help would be appreciated.
  10. Just replaced the Steering Wheel accessory switch 6 months ago, yesterday the Brake lights stopped working, Turn signals, and indicators on the cluster for them, brake light in back glass still works, fuses are all fine. before I switch it out again just wanting to verify more than likely it's a faulty switch, thanks ahead of time! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Does anyone near me have a scan tool capable of getting 95 Buick ECM codes? I have been struggling with a check engine light for a while now, and now that spring is upon us, I would like it fixed for summer driving. The car is a 95 Buick Regal with a 3800. A few hundred miles ago, I started getting a SES light that comes and goes. At the time, it seemed random. At one point, I replaced a cracked EGR connector and thought that fixed it, only to get it again a couple weeks later. I have no idea what difference that made, but it did make it stop for around 10 days - maybe just a coincidence. It has started happening more and more often since then. Now it lights up every time the engine reaches operating temperatures without fail. Here is how it goes: At start-up, the light is on if it was on the last time the car ran. The light turns off during warm-up. The light comes back up a few miles away, right around the time the engine warms up. I imagine it is around the time it tries to go into closed loop. I am wondering if I am running in open loop full time because of this. I have replaced the oxygen sensor not too long ago (with a new bosch one). I have also replaced the EGR valve and connector (not new, but made no difference). I just replaced the TPS this morning and its connector because a couple of times I have gotten a sudden high idle in the past. Had no effect on the SES light. I would prefer not just switching out sensors till it is fixed, although with the fun OBD 1.5, that is a real possibility for me. I did try to use tunerpro to get some data from the computer, but this is the first time I have ever used it and so far I get some data, but it is erratic enough to call random. For the connection, I used RobertISaar's suggestion from another form for the USB cable. Like I said, not really an expert in tunerpro and have never tuned an EFI system before so I am not looking to do that, I just thought it would be an inexpensive alternative to getting raped by the local shops just to pull codes. I used the A and M pins for the connection. Only one other pin is used and I do not believe it has anything to do with the ECM. Now that your eyes hurt from reading my long post, does anyone around here have a tool capable of pulling codes from these cars? Comments and suggestions are also welcome. Thank you, Miller
  12. I want to wire my fog lights so that they not only come on with my headlights but can also be turned on when the headlights are off and off when the headlights are on. I'm assuming it'll require at least two relays but I'd like to only use one switch. A wiring diagram would be awesome but any help is appreciated.
  13. Hi everyone. I have a '92 Cutlass Convertible. Late last year the battery began getting weak. After recharging a couple times, the battery finally wouldn't even hold a charge - that was late-January. The battery was almost five years old and had a useful life, so I bought a new one. No problems...until just a few days ago. I don't drive the Cutlass everyday as we have two other vehicles, so after a couple days of sitting, the car cranked slowly for a second before starting. Obviously, the new battery was getting weak! There are no obvious signs of a parasitic leak (no hood or truck light stuck on, no interior lights, etc.). I did a parasitic drain test today with my multimeter. At first, I was running around 1.50 amps. I disconnected the cables to the driver's side keyhole light and the seat belt connectors and it dropped to around .77 amps. Here's what's strange: opening and closing the door would give me different readings. Sometimes it was around .77 amps, then other times it was around .01 amps. I figured the switch in the door jamb might be bad, so I cleaned it up real good. Still, I'm getting around .75 amps most of the time, but sometimes .01 amps, changing as I open and close the door. Do you think the door jamb switch is bad? There doesn't seem to be much that can go wrong if it's clean - it's a simple switch. Any other ideas on what's causing the intermittent drain? If I pull the ELEC and CTSY fuses, I get .01 amps all the time. Thanks.
  14. Years ago, I put a Donnelly autodim+compass+map lights mirror in the 94 Cutlass. It had a 7-pin inline connector. The autodim fluid has leaked out, making it difficult to use the mirror. Thinking to just replace it with a basic mirror with map/dome lights, but don't want to rewire it. What cars came with a basic map/dome mirror that used the 7-pin inline connector?
  15. I just picked up a cutlass supreme with a 3.1the other day . First question is when I was changing the o2 sensor there was a 2 wire connector with a green and a black wire just about melted to the manifold. Second I did a full tuneup (spark plugs,wires,fuel filter,pcv valve,o2 sensor,air filter) and it still throws a code for cylinder 2 misfire. It only idles a little weird at idle and sitting at lights.Once u give it ggas or driving along its completely smooth. Can it be a fuel injector?
  16. I've got a 2008 base Buick LaCrosse with a 3800 Series III V6 and under 50,000 miles. I got an oil change last week. The next day, the check engine light went on. I was wondering what they might have messed with at the dealership that possibly loosened a connection or knocked out a sensor. It was purely a coincidence. I went to an auto parts store. They scanned it with the OBD II device as a courtesy and it kicked out code p0128. This means "Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature." I was thinking that, most likely, I would be replacing the ECT sensor (not an expensive sensor) or the thermostat was stuck open. Tonight, when I drove off, the checking engine light went off. And it has stayed off. When the light went on, we had had a cold snap. Today, it was about 20 degrees F warmer outside. I'm wondering if this had anything to do with it and if I can ignore the issue. What do you think? Have you had check engine lights that came off and then sort of went away? Also, have you heard of this particular issue and could it have been caused a big drop in the temperature outside?
  17. Hello W body family. 92 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 3.1L. 161,123 miles The column shift only sometimes activates my backup lights. I found that tapping, wiggling or holding the shift lever slightly passed its seat will activate them. Issue within the last few weeks. Switch in column? or on trans? Thanks. Joe.
  18. Hello W body family. 92 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 3.1L. 161,123 miles >The column shift only sometimes activates my backup lights. I found that tapping, wiggling or holding the column shift lever activates them... Do you know what I need to do to fix this? Switch in column? or on trans? Thanks. Joe.
  19. DTC C1221 LF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 DTC C1225 LF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation DTC C1232 LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted DTC C1245 Right Front ABS Channel Does Not Move I'm assuming there's an issue with the front left wheel speed sensor. Since they're non-serviceable (yay, GM!), I've got a new wheel hub ready to go. Can someone confirm which side is the left and right? I figured the driver's side is the left side but I can't be too sure. I previously checked and the speed sensor is plugged in with no noticeable break in the wiring; however, I didn't check the resistance at the speed sensors. I'm going to do that before replacing the hub. C1245 has me a bit confused. I'm hoping this problem is in conjunction with the wheel speed sensor issue. Does anyone have more information?
  20. I picked up a 1993 3.4 Cutlass Convert from a neighbor and it has been a great car. Red body, gray interior and black top. But, the car has suddenly gone crazy. When I start the car, it goes thru a sequence of tests quickly checking all the dash lights, radio and climate controls. The sequence just continues round and round. I pulled the fuse that stopped it, but now I have no climate control or dash gauges (except fuel). I searched threads on the board to see if someone else has experienced the same problem, and I could not find one. I disconnected the battery and checked all the connections. No improvement. Electrical is my weakest area and I need some direction. Any thoughts?
  21. Car is 2000 Lumina, recently ive been having problems getting the car to start. The battery is fully charged, my lights are bright and everything works but when I turn the key it doesnt crank. Sometimes I wait a while and then it cranks and starts fine. I was left stranded Saturday, I tried everything, moving the cables, moving the steering wheel and shifter. I have 2 keys and tried them both. Have heard could be ignition with the chip key or starter solinoed. Thought I would check here first since ive always gotten the best advice on here
  22. I've gone through the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual but have come to a dead end. I'll write a quick outline of what's going on. Ignition off and parking lights switched on: The front turn lights come on, both sides. Ignition on, parking lights off, and activating left and right turn signals: Left and right work properly. Ignition on, parking lights on, and activating left and right turn signals: The signal lights work on both sides, but never go fully off because they are lit by the parking light. It seems that something is using the turn lights to find an earth, but when I take out all the turn bulbs, I find nothing that has stopped working. Here's the dead end...... In the Haynes manual wiring diagrams, I see that there is only ONE park/turn bulb. Its function seems to be determined by either a park-turn relay or by a 'module' with diodes in it. I assume that this bulb functions as a parking light (sidelight in GB English) until the indicator is activated, when it indicator bulb. When the signal is cancelled, it goes back to being a sidelight/parking light.....I assume, still. But on our Regal, there are TWO bulbs in the plastic lamp units next to each headlamp, not just one. The four bulbs in these two units are orange. There is evidence of someone having worked on all the front lamp wiring.....plastic connectors, sticky tape and so on. I will take all this crappy re-wiring off and re-do it properly, but first I need to know: What is the original setup of the front park/turn lights system on this model? What should be happening? It's a 91 Regal Coupe Limited, 3.1 engine. Has someone possibly taken turn/parking lamp units (with dual bulbs) from a different model and tried to bypass the park/turn relay/module, and failed miserably? I can pop round to the auto electric chap if necessary and translate the English into Polish for him, but it makes sense to ask here first to get as well-prepared as possible. Cheers!
  23. pwmin

    Heated Seat Issue

    The switch seems to work just fine as it lights up and all that, but I'm not getting and significant heat from my seat heaters. What would be the best thing to look at to try and figure it out? Is there a common problem with these? It had a code when I first bought it, but it had other BCM codes that went away when I put a proper battery in it and I erased all of them.
  24. I've been thinking about doing this for a long time on my gp. I love the look of the honeycomb fire bird tail lights but the tail lights already have a pattern on them. Is there any way to get that off? Is it inside the taillight or outside and could be scrapped off with a razor? I figure once that is off I can just put a decal on them of the honeycomb Any ideas?
  25. I recently sold a 96 GP DIC to a member here and everything lights up and scrolls through the menus except the screen doesnt light up. I'm hoping I just need to resolder the connections, so I'l like to know what pins or circuits i need to plug into to make the screen light up, Thanks.
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