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Found 432 results

  1. This has been mentioned but never really discussed. A straight answer hasn't really been provided. I'm writing this for my Jaguar, but I think it has plenty of merit with our cars as well since many people install transmission coolers. There are 3 possible scenarios here. 1. Use the built-in transmission cooler in the radiator 2. Route the transmission cooler lines from the radiator, to the aux trans cooler, and back to the trans 3. Bypass the radiator and go straight to the aux trans cooler Obviously, we know that our transmissions heat up to the point where the stock radiator is not enough to cool them. Buck reported that under heavy driving, his 05 GTP's 4T65E-HD would hit 260 degrees F. We also know that heat kills transmissions, and that temperature is rather high. Therefore, it can be assumed that the stock radiator is insufficient in cooling the transmission. This is primarily because it cannot cool the transmission below what the temperature of the radiator is, which during a typical summer day will sit nicely around 190 degrees F. IIRC, our w-bodies won't switch on the primary fan until the temperature reaches 235 degrees F. Correct me if I'm wrong here. The transmission will only get hotter than that. If one routes the transmission cooler lines through the radiator and then to the aux trans cooler, the radiator does some slight bit of cooling, and the transmission cooler does the bulk of the cooling thereafter. In my experiences, with a large transmission cooler flush mounted to the condenser, the engine could be running at even 220 degrees F, and the transmission will stay steady at 190 degrees, so the cooler is obviously making a big difference. Obviously its less than ideal to flush mount the transmission cooler, and I'm working on that. My concern with this approach is that the transmission can potentially be cooler using only the aux transmission cooler, which brings me to my next point. How cold is too cold? I've read that someone called valvoline to ask them that question, and the response was flat out "30 degrees F." I'm not sure how much validity there is to that claim, since I've also heard from around here that you can run a transmission too cold. Well how cold is too cold? I don't want to hear guesses here, but rather constructive feedback. Would it be detrimental to bypass the radiator entirely and have the aux trans cooler take care of all of the cooling? Has anyone done this and reported back on their temperature readings in different conditions? Another thing to consider with this approach is that the car itself will run cooler as a result of not having the heat of the transmission lines going through it. In regard to the aux trans cooler, I'm referring heavy duty coolers in the $50-$60 range, built for RV's.
  2. The Cutlass Supreme convertible top is a standard two-piece design. According to “Almost all Ford, GM and Chrysler convertible tops install as two separate units. They are the main top and the rear window section. This is the original design since the thirties and the design is fundamentally unchanged until much later…The rear window section is often called the ‘curtain.’†The original top on Cutlass Supreme convertibles was double texture pinpoint vinyl. When replacing the top, though, you have several options when it comes to materials (the following material explanations are excerpted in large part from with some notes added and irrelevant material removed): Single Texture Pinpoint vinyl: This is the most common replacement material used for Cutlass Supreme convertibles. This is a good, durable vinyl that matches the grain of many original tops from the 40's to the 80's. This material weighs 36 ounces per square yard. The outside is a pinpoint vinyl while the inside is lined with cloth. Less expensive convertibles have been known to use this material. MOST aftermarket top seller's tout single texture vinyl as "the material the original OEM manufacturer used," when in fact most used double texture. To the untrained eye and hand it looks and may feel the same, but most cars that had a pinpoint vinyl top, built from the 40's to the 90's, used the double texture vinyl (Listed next). Although not the same, Single Texture Vinyl is still a good and commonly used replacement. It looks and feels nearly identical, will last almost as long, and for many restored vehicles that are garaged and covered, a single texture top could last 20 years or more if cared for properly. Double Texture Pinpoint vinyl (sometimes called Euro vinyl): 80% of Muscle cars and 40's - early 90's convertibles used double texture vinyl as the OEM material. The outside is a pinpoint vinyl while the inside is lined with cloth. Double texture vinyl weighs 38 ounces per square yard. The texture is a pinpoint texture nearly identical to single texture pinpoint vinyl. Double texture pinpoint costs a little more than the single texture pinpoint, however it is a more durable top and will last a few years longer. Single Texture Sailcloth vinyl: Many 90's convertibles such as Sebrings and Mustangs started using Sailcloth vinyl in place of pinpoint vinyl due to the fantastic texture. Standard interior color is black, gray interior cloth is available with some colors at an extra cost. The weight of Sailcloth vinyl is 36 ounces per square yard. Sailcloth vinyl material has a woven texture that resembles a "richer" cloth top. Color choices in Sailcloth vinyl are more limited than those in pinpoint vinyl. Stayfast Cloth: Stayfast is a tightly woven cloth canvas. The yarn is solution dyed BEFORE it is woven, creating a uniform color throughout. Domestic made or converted vehicles that came with a cloth top most likely used Stayfast cloth. Stayfast holds strong in both extremely hot and cold climates. Due to its richer look, Stayfast tops are more expensive. Stayfast color choices are limited and white is unavailable. Cutlass owners who want to give their car a more upscale appearance (and do not need or want a white top) have upgraded to a Stayfast top, and are almost universally pleased with its improved appearance/texture as compared to the original-style vinyl tops. When replacing the top, the window is almost always replaced as well. It is generally not recommended that you attempt to detach your existing glass window and try to re-use it. According to “Glass windows are bonded or heat sealed in to the vinyl or cloth surrounding them. It is very difficult to install just the glass in to a vinyl curtain and it will cost you about as much to have this done as it is for a brand new window and curtain. If your window and the attached fabric are in good condition, you can re-use them, but the vinyl may not match the new top.†It is possible to replace the top with one containing a plastic window, but this is not recommended, as plastic windows looks cheap, are very flimsy, and scratch easily. Please allow the Cutlass ‘vert to retain its dignity by using a glass-windowed top, and leave the plastic windows to the Geo and Cavalier ‘verts. When selecting a glass window with your new top, you will have the option of choosing one with or without a defroster. The headliner is usually re-used if still in acceptable condition. Same with the top pads and cables, though there is some difference of advice here. Some websites recommend new pads and side cables with every new top, and new rear cables with every other top, while other sites and installers say that the side cables and pads only need to be replaced when their condition warrants it. It’s up to you. Most convertible manuals indicate that the complete top install takes about 10 hours, 7 for the main top piece, and 3 for the “curtain†(the secondary piece that holds the window). Labor costs can range from $400 to $1000, depending on the installer’s hourly rate. Some shops may allow you to buy the top and bring it to them, but be aware that some will inflate their labor a bit to compensate for the lost profit from selling you the top through them, and also may not warranty the installation, since they can’t verify the quality of a top brought to them by a customer. This means that you would have to make sure it looked right before leaving the shop. give some excellent advice: “If you decide to "hire out" the job: * Go to your yellow pages. Look under "automobile seat covers, upholstery and tops." Select a couple of shops and visit or call them. You want to determine that is their policy to provide installation service on tops that are not purchased from the shop. * Many shops are dealers themselves and represent a top manufacturer and will not want to sacrifice this re-sale aspect of their profit. Be wary of any shop that disparages a product that it does not carry. Although it is true that quality can vary, no company should use "scare tactics" to get your business.†While it is highly recommended that you have the top installed by a professional, it is possible, with patience and the correct tools, to install the top yourself. Be aware that it will likely take an inexperienced installer several times longer than a professional. sells a universal two-piece top manual, and it is also possible to acquire an original GM instructional video for the Cutlass ‘Vert top that several have said was a real help when installing the top themselves. If you will be buying a top to take to an installer, or will be attempting the install yourself, you will need to decide where to get a top from. Here are just a few sources (that also represent a range of the brands available) that sell Cutlass ‘vert tops:—They have the best prices found to this point, though their selection is a bit limited (for example, they don't offer sailcloth texture option). The tops they sell for the Cutlass 'Verts are EZ-on, the most widely sold brand. Their quality is considered to be good.—They sell tops as part of a kit that includes side cables and pads. Their tops are Kee Tops, supposedly a pretty premium brand (though one installer I contacted said that “they think a lot of their tops [because of the higher price] but I’ve never noticed that they were any better than EZ-onâ€). This site is well-known for their knowledge and customer service. Several have commented that they were pleased with their transaction. Kee tops are also sold on’s website here:—Their tops are made by Acme Headliner, and are supposed to be pretty good quality. These tops, at present (3/09) are the ones most commonly seen on Ebay.—They also carry EZ-on tops. Their prices are higher than, but they have a wider selection, offering sailcloth tops in various colors, including the “Brite White†that is the correct color white color for Cutlass ‘verts. JC Whitney—They have historically carried Electron tops. Some sources say that this is the economy brand of convertible tops, though one installer I contacted did actually say they were is favorite because of how easy they are to install. Electron tops are also available through and Robbins Tops—arguably the highest end brand, they only sell the main top piece, not the curtain. Their tops are sold through regional distributors. Wherever you buy your top from, make sure it comes with a 5-year warranty. This is pretty much standard. If they don’t offer this, their tops are probably of lesser quality than average. Cylinders and pumps are still available from a few sources. One is If anyone can think of anything else that is needed, let me know and I’ll modify this thread.
  3. I've got a '95 Olds Cutlass Supreme with an L67. I have cooling fans from a 2000 GTP on it; however, I'm a bit baffled about the way they operate. Both fans run on the low-speed setting. On the high speed setting, only the fan on the passenger's side runs. Is this correct? I checked the voltage on the driver's side fan motor, and it drops to 0 when on the high speed setting. It seems like both fans should run on the high speed setting to me (although I do not know the way the system works). I have had cooling problems with this thing since I put it together last August. It stays cool as long as it's not idling still for >20-30 min. I just replaced the original 3.1 radiator with a radiator with 3 additional rows (when counting vertically). The core of my original radiator was 34 rows tall, while the newly installed one was 37. The radiator shop I purchased the radiator from claims that these 3 additional rows provide the same cooling efficiency with the stock 5/8 inch core width as a radiator with the stock number of vertical rows (34) with a 1 inch core width. This new radiator did help the problem, but I would still rather have both fans running on the high speed setting. That would ameliorate it completely I think. Have you guys with stock early 2000s GTPs observed the way the fans work? Thanks, Andy
  4. Always been a fan of the w-body, Grand Prix GTP mainly. Currently I do not own one but that dont stop me from looking. ASE "Equipment Tech" for MoDOT, fancy word for dumbass mechanic that works for the state LOL.
  5. Those of you with aftermarket tips and stock mufflers, please post pictures. Looking at my TGP it looks like I only have about 8-8.5'' of length from the tip to the stock muffler - I'm not seeing too much that will fit in that same space, even if I modify the tips and cut off an inch or two. I generally prefer dual round outlet tips w/ rolled edges. If anyone happens to know of a short version of those, let me know. I want the tips to sit at the same place the factory ones do now rather than protrude farther(not a fan of that). On the off-chance I can't find something short enough to work as-is or with light modification, I might just keep the stock tips. I like the way they look, but kinda want something different at the same time.
  6. I am not a fan of these and the GTP I just bought has them on, they look great and work fine they are currently on the car now and it is my daily. I am looking for $65 shipped for them, I know how much they sell for new and honestly I have had issues with them on LSx cars and they left a bad taste in my mouth. I am putting stock coil packs on. I will get pics tonight when I get home.
  7. Hi I would like to know if anyone has rewired the radiator fans so both come on at the same time? I tried to jump the fan relays so when #1 relay came on #2 also started. I do not think I did my jumper wires from #1 to #2 correctly- has anyone done this correctly? I would also like to know if there are?/ were different size fans or fan motors for the w body. Please dont tell me why I should not do this- thank u scott
  8. ive got a 93 lumina with ac problems wont blow cold air, ac compressor seems to engage but secondary fan wont run when ac is engaged would that be a problem ? someone told me the fan should engage when ac is turned on or possible relay problem and therfore system wont run and cool .....any help with this trying to do what I can before taking to shop and getting screwed for something simple .
  9. Yeah one more cooling fan thread, but I couldn't find the answers by reading through the old ones. A few weeks ago I noticed the Cutlass would get hot while stuck in traffic and I had assumed it was the design of the water pump impeller being inferior, but its actually my fans that are not activating at the right temperature. I have confirmed power at the relay and also purchased a new one just in case. I have jumped the fans off the battery and they also activate when full AC is on I have changed the coolant temperature sensor on the thermostat housing. They still do not come on normally, Is there something I`m missing or forgot to check and can anyone point me in the direction of what to try next? This is on the 1994 Cutlass 3100
  10. my daughters 93 Grand Prix is overheating. The fans will not cut on at all. I have run it in my driveway until at the red and no fans. When I cut the AC on the fans will not come on either. Even if I put AC at max and blower on high no fans. I can jumper them and they will come on so the fans are good. Could this be the temp sending unit? Also her blower motor has stopped working as well. Putting the blower motor on high does nothing, the blower does not blow any air. Could this be why the coolant fans are not coming on when I put the AC on max and the blower motor on high? Just throwing that out there. Any ideas appreciated.
  11. Hi all. I just swapped my stock air box for the ZZP CAI. I'm not a fan of the Flexaust stuff that comes with it. I know it's decent stuff, insulated and all. I'm trying to find some green silicone tubing, or green anything tubing that I can replace the silver flexaust with. Could just be a 15* or 45* coupler I guess. Trim it down to where I need it. A company called Mishimoto has some bright-ass lime green, just not in 4" (that i can find). There's a UK based website: . Special order and expensive.... Anyone know anything within the US? Thanks!
  12. I am not a fan of that fuel system service GM dealers try to sell - from $75 to $99, where they put some cleaning compound through the fuel and induction system. Right now, on a 2008 LaCrosse with a 3800 V6, I use branded fuel (Chevron, Shell, Texaco) some 90% of the time, don't let the tank go below 1/4 (because the fuel filter is in the tank),* and put in a bottle of Chevron Techron f.i. cleaner or STP concentrated f.i. cleaner every 5,000. So far, at under 50,000 miles, I'm still getting the EPA 30 mpg on the open road. Therefore, I told them I don't want this service. The last service adviser cleared all the recommended service items off my roster because I told him to do that and he knows I keep the car well maintained. I wasn't even this diligent with my last Buick 3800 and the injectors went for as long as I owned it - about 275,000 miles. Questions: - Am I doing this right, as far as fuel and fuel injector cleaner? - Can I put in the fuel injector cleaner more often - say every 3,000 miles, or is that excessive? - What's up with those fuel system service packages? I'm worried they might send too much cleaner through the system and mess with the injectors. Has anyone had that service done? Thanks.
  13. aaaaamartin

    ECM Trouble

    Hi everyone, newbie, first post to the forum. there is very odd things going on with the car's electronics lately. It's a Regal 1990 3.1MPFI 2-Door Limited using the underhood 1227727 ECM. With ignition on, engine off the SES and Low Coolant light both show a nervous flicker. They are supposed to be steady on, but they do flicker 5 out of 10 times, and sometimes the are both of completely. Sometimes coolant light is off, ses light is on and #1 fan engages. (Limb home???) Any ideas what this could be? Thnaks in advance Martin
  14. Anyone got the part number for this? I just replaced the jet engine sounding radiator fan, and now the IC pusher fan is super loud as well. looked on rock auto didnt see it.
  15. My buddy has a teal 94 grand prix 4 door i've been keeping alive for him.... I can get nice 1998 Cadillac Catera rims/ tires for cheap and they look great, I know they are 5 x115 just wondering if the backspace would be ok??? Sure would like better than the fan blade hub cap / steelies. Thanks
  16. I honestly don't know if there is a problem here, but I thought I would throw this out and see what everyone thinks. My 95 GP SE interior fan seems to be running real slow on the first 2 settings and then really high on the last 2. Maybe it's just me but it seems I get barley any air or coming out like gang busters. I usually have to turn it on the 3rd setting just to really feel anything.
  17. I have a really odd HVAC panel in my 95 CS. It is not the dual zone, but it is not vacuum, as it's all wires behind it. Air is stuck at defrost. Fan speed and hot/cold work fine. Thought maybe faulty switch, replaced with a JY one same deal. Checked all fuses. It sounds like the door is not wanting to open, can hear a faint electrical noise like it wants to. Any other ideas? I have a feeling its the mode door. I hope not, because I don't wanna tear out the dash to fix it.
  18. This weekend I put a new radiator in my 95 GP SE and I noticed that only the left (drivers side) fan was regularly running. The other, right passengers side would never come on. Am I missing something? Is the other fan set to only come on at certain times or when the A/C is running? Inquiring minds want to know. TIA.
  19. Hi all! As in the title, the on-the-road running temperature never gets above about 50 on the guage. The guage seems to work fine because when the car is standing and the engine running, the temperature reaches just under 100 and the electric cooling fan cuts in. I'm baffled on this one .
  20. '94 Cutlass Supreme - manual heat... the fan settings 1-3 have stopped working on my HVAC system, only 4 works. We checked fuses and relays last night... but were unable to locate the resistors. The Haynes manual is no help, and after 20 minutes of looking around under the dash in the passenger footwell we didn't spot anything... Anyone have a diagram or photo? Thanks!
  21. For those of us that don't have the option of installing a CS 144 without an engine swap this may be the next best thing. i just got of the phone with Brady, a tech with Powermaster Performance. He said they don't make a factory replacement, but offer two upgrades. The all new alternators are a direct replacement that use 1 internal and 1 external metal cooling fan (not a plastic fan like the factory CS 130). Option #1 p/n 7860 80amps @ 800rpm with factory pulleys, 105 amps Max - $149.97 at Summit Racing. Option #2 p/n 47460 95amps @ 800rpm w/ factory pulleys, 140 amps Max - $ 185.97 at Summit Racing. These may be cheaper elsewhere, I haven't checked yet, but wanted to post what I found. i will be replacing my alt. soon, hopefully before it fails, more than likely with option #2.
  22. Hello everyone. I am new to the forum, i have been a W body fan for years. First car was a 96 monte carlo z34, and i guess they just grew on me from that point on. I have owned several W body vehicles, including my current 09 impala. I am a technician for a GM dealership, ASE master certified, and have worked in GM dealerships for 10 years. Im happy to share my knowledge with other W body fans.
  23. replaced all the relays under the hood have new cooling fan it works when hardwired to battery, but it does not kick on when my car is running and the coolant will boil over and spray out the radiator cap and overflow the coolant tank bad coolant switch or something else?
  24. Gibby

    Loud tgp fans

    Anybody else that owns a tgp have radiator fans that sound like a jet engine?? Mine are so loud I can't hear the car running at idle.
  25. I have a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix. 3800 Nat Asp 4T65-E. I recalibrated the fans to turn on earlier with my 180 stat and with lower A/C pressures. I have the single speed motors and not the larger PWM Motors. I have a fan connector with 12 gu wire, disconnected each fan and installed my connector, connected it to Bat + and Neg. The fan runs at the same speed. The fans do run and cool the system ok even with the A/C on. I find the fans are quite and other GM Fans, like a 1993 Sunbird 3.1L fan moves twice the air BUT make more noise. My question is this. Has anyone tried to replace a fan motor with one that has a higher RPM in a 3800 Nat Asp cooling package to gain faster cool downs? I am trying to gain more air flow by trying to find a fan motor that runs faster to pull more air. Noise is not a concern. Thanks for your time. I do not have a service manual for the fan system. It does not seem to have a low spd. SEEM is the key word here.
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