Guest TurboSedan Posted November 26, 2005 Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 rockin 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted November 26, 2005 Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 rockin 8) GOD DANG IT IS ABOUT TIME!!!! Just kidding...but glad we could help! Well what all did you take off in the process? Did you bump or unplug the DIS module somehow? Maybe slip and break the connector? One more for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted November 26, 2005 Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 Dude you got lucky, everyones turbo is goin out lately. Looks like I lost the bet. Just get a blow off valve and keep it that way. You might want to have it rebuilt right now for a couple hundred, instead of waiting for it to be un rebuildable. But if it don't smoke now it should be alright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted November 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 Haha, Blow off valve is my next investment, Should i just go find a cheap 30$ DSM 1G one, or a 200$ Greddy Type RS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted November 26, 2005 Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 that is what I am trying next I think. the 1G because the turbo xs type s is not working right all the time for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted November 26, 2005 Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 I have had the same 1G DSM BOV on the TGP since I did the 5-speed swap...never leaked and still working perfectly. You will need both the BOV and the flange it bolts to. You will have to have the flange welded onto the charge pipe. I chose the lower charge pipe to get it out of the way. Some have put it on the upper pipe. Some have theories that the placement matters...it does NOT matter where you put it! As long as you are venting the charge air it is doing it's job! 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted November 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 The lower pipe sounds like a good place, do the 1G DSM BOVs sound good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted November 27, 2005 Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 I like mine. It sounds like a tractor trailer truck purging 120psi from it's air dryer! 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted November 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 Awsome, ill get one of those, and for 30$ you cant go wrong on ebay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead43 Posted November 30, 2005 Report Share Posted November 30, 2005 Good to hear your TGP is back on da ROAD dude.. I'm still trying to get mine back together... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted December 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 Ok what the hell, I started it, and it ran just fine, i shifted it into gear, it died, now it wont start, and the RPM gauge (also known as a TACH, lol), the need goes down below 0 when cranking, uhg, its hot right now, but do yall think that stupid plug is broken and popped out again when it moved the motor when shifting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted December 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 Ok, it was the DIS plug, it seems the Plug connects, and has the latch if you will, and it gets bent upwards by the nipple on the Oil pan for the oil return line, So it doesnt latch and slowly comes out till no more connection, i cannot get it to go on anymore, and i dont think the female connector to the DIS moves, i dont wanna break it, so what can i Do? Stiff wire to hold it to gether? like a paper clip? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v210/Prospeeder/disconnect.jpg heres a drawing i made for those who cant understand me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted December 4, 2005 Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 its called a tach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted December 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 Oh, The latch thing is called a tach? Is that what you mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted December 4, 2005 Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 Thanks for that advice. I can't remember what that even looks like off the top of my head of if there would be any way to zip-tie it on like most of the guys do for their MAP plug. In fact, I'm not even quite sure where you're talking about. I'd try anything that wasnt' metal. Metal around that area seems like a real bad idea. Edit: no, erik. Your "RPM gauge" is called a tach(ometer). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted December 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 Oh duh! sorry, i wasnt on that post anymore, and he said its called a tach, and i didnt know what the "latch" was called, so you know, i naturally assumed Zip tie sounds like a good idea too, how heat resistant are they? Like, engine heat wont boil them off and then leave me stranded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted December 4, 2005 Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 I've had one on my MAP sensor forever. I think they work pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted December 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 hmm, ok, thanks dude, Ill try that out, any other suggestions would be awsome! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted December 4, 2005 Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 Why does your motor move when shifting? Bad lower mount? To check the lower mount shift it from rev. to drive while having your foot on the brake. If the motor shakes around alot, needs a lower motor mount. A little off topic. I just seen it happen too many times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted December 4, 2005 Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 I've had one on my MAP sensor forever. I think they work pretty well. Tach, or zip tie? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted December 5, 2005 Report Share Posted December 5, 2005 zip tie! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead43 Posted December 5, 2005 Report Share Posted December 5, 2005 Ifr the motor moves exessively, that would mean your lower engine and tranny mounts are gone or about to go... Neglecting those only adds to the wear and tear of the upper mounts ... So If you're gonna do it right...... Replace all 4 mounts at once....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted December 6, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2005 at 70k my lower and trans mounts would already be going?! It doesnt move a ton, but like any motor it moves when you shift it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted December 6, 2005 Report Share Posted December 6, 2005 it should stay in the same spot and barely move when you shift from reverse to neutral to drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted December 6, 2005 Report Share Posted December 6, 2005 The hydraulic moves a little more than the poly mount actually, TGPs all have hydraulic fluid filled. I had gone through a lower mount per year for a while before I got my new rack and pinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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