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Found 780 results

  1. Anyone still around from the REALLY old days? (like a decade ago or more?) I still keep my eyes open for cool w-bodies even 9 years removed from owning one. I have even raced against a couple of them in lemons racing!
  2. This morning I could not get my drivers side door handle to open the door. The handle works properly. But it seems like the lock portion is getting caught or rubbing against something. I had to pull the door handle kinda hard until the door finally opened. Any thoughts on how to make it loose like it use to. I did spray with WD40. But it stil gets caught. Open for ideas, thanks
  3. Long story short, I have a laptop that functions perfectly aside from having a battery that doesn't batter. To spare some details, I reinstalled a fresh XP copy, tweaked some things, and got centrafuse mostly running how I want (other than some plugins and codecs for video). I have about 12 seconds until complete hibernate from button push, and about 15 seconds from cold start out of hibernate until music starts. My hurdles are switching it on and off. My plans are to get a DC-DC laptop adapter that's the proper voltage and whatnot (about $14 online), and then wire a cigarette lighter in somewhere so that it's easily disconnected. I haven't rewired anything yet since it's cold, but I'll probably run a thicker power wire to a distribution block, and then run my amp and this off of it. So, with the power mostly planned, here's kind of the setup I'm going for: If I hardwire it with a DC-DC plug, and then just have something "push" the button after a few seconds (after crank), that would do 100% of what I need it to. Basically this turn key on power comes on, utilizing remote wire in the same manner as an amp? 5-10 second delay to allow voltage spike from crank, crank and start button press once started (doesn't have to involve the 500rpm thing, 5-10 seconds will do the same thing, just on a timer instead of an rpm signal) the issue will be going into hibernate, having it retain power for maybe 30 seconds before cutting off turn key off maintain power, button push 30 second delay cut all power I'm open to thoughts and ideas. I know I can buy something to do all this, but why spend over $50 for something I should be able to do for less than $20? I may solder in a secondary power button lead off of the original, so that I can basically run a remote button somewhere if I need to for testing purposes. My goal is to use this primarily as a carputer, but maintaining it's laptoppiness. for reference, it's a celeron 2.4ghz processor, with 700 some megs of ram, so plenty to run audio and some decent video OH! I almost forgot! My plans to start are to run a cd HU in the foxglove, and maintain stock speaker setup, and just run this into the aux jack for now, so the only issue with this is finding the happy medium of two separate volume controls. And then of course I'll run a touchscreen in the stock HU location. I thought about putting it where the DIC is, but it's gonna be too difficult I think with the shifter
  4. Ok, I am cleaning out the garage and basement, and just want these parts gone. I am open to all offers. If you make an offer, shipping will be calculated after. OEM GM 3.4L intake manifold gaskets Convertible top switch Oldsmobile alero/intrigue key cyl L67 supercharger coupler GM 6 disc ch changer magazines 2001 Grand Prix Dealer brochure LTZ/Z34 center cap 1st Gen Seat Belt Extender Headlight/HUD Switch OEM GM Z34 badges GM 10 disc changers. 1 - 97, 1 - 94. 2 door door handles inner parts PN found on them Gentex Mirror 267 Donnelly with map lights G6 mirror And for a really rare one, an Add-on On-Star attachment on a GNTX-177
  5. If you have any questions, concerns, suggestions, want to be added to the attendees list or need more info, please reply in the other thread found-->HERE<--Do NOT reply in this thread, as the sole purpose of this one is to provide the official info & attendees list. Date: Saturday, June 27th Time: Noon - ?? Location: Herrick Lake Forest Preserve Butterfield Rd (Rt. 56) & Herrick Rd Wheaton, IL Map & Info *We will be in the parking lot/entrance off of Butterfield Rd. Cost: $5 gets you access to all the trans fats, high fructose corn syrup and sodium nitrate you can keep down! Attendees: RareGMFan (w-body.com, gpf.net) GP40Chic (wcp.com) Cully77 (w-body.com) BrianG (w-body.com, ClubGP) Matt Palm (w-body.com, gpf.net) atj8 (gpf.net) nos4blood70 (gpf.net, pcb.com) + 2 guests Description: A gathering for local w-body.com members, but the event is open to non-members/w-body owners as well. The event will consist of a meet and greet in the forest preserve parking lot, while we eat, drink and be merry. Please bring $5 to contribute towards the cost of food and supplies. I will provide everything needed for the cookout. Stats (for future reference) Attendance throughout the day: cars, people User names in red strike through = Did not make it. User names in blue = Not on list prior to meet, but showed.
  6. Hey all, my door is making that annoying creaking sound when I open it (94 cutlass supreme), does anyone know if anyone still makes the door check valve? Don't see it on Rockauto and the dealer definitely doesn't have one. Is it the same on later model W's? Or am I stuck with raiding junkyard cars?
  7. If you have any questions, concerns, suggestions or want to be added to the attendees list, please reply in the other thread found -->HERE<--Do NOT reply in this thread, as the sole purpose of this one is to provide the official info & attendees list. Date: Saturday, May 30th Time: Noon - ?? Location: Herrick Lake Forest Preserve Butterfield Rd (Rt. 56) & Herrick Rd Wheaton, IL Map & Info *We will be in the parking lot/entrance on Butterfield Rd. Cost: $5 gets you access to all the trans fats, high fructose corn syrup and sodium nitrate you can keep down! Attendees: RareGMFan (w-body.com, gpf.net) GP40Chic (wcp.com) gtpwhite (wcp.com) Cully77 (w-body.com) BrianG (w-body.com, ClubGP) Euro (w-body.com, gpf.net) Tim Lieb (w-body.com) NTRCOOL (w-body.com) dwhite832003 (gpf.com) atj8 (gpf.net) Description: A gathering for all local w-body.com members, but the event is open to non-members/w-body owners as well. The event will consist of a meet and greet in the forest preserve parking lot, while we eat, drink and be merry. Please bring $5 to contribute towards the cost of food and supplies. I will provide all supplies for the cookout. Stats (for future reference) Attendance throughout the day: 9 cars, 9 people User names in red strike through = Did not make it. User names in blue = Not on list prior to meet, but showed.
  8. Does anyone near me have a scan tool capable of getting 95 Buick ECM codes? I have been struggling with a check engine light for a while now, and now that spring is upon us, I would like it fixed for summer driving. The car is a 95 Buick Regal with a 3800. A few hundred miles ago, I started getting a SES light that comes and goes. At the time, it seemed random. At one point, I replaced a cracked EGR connector and thought that fixed it, only to get it again a couple weeks later. I have no idea what difference that made, but it did make it stop for around 10 days - maybe just a coincidence. It has started happening more and more often since then. Now it lights up every time the engine reaches operating temperatures without fail. Here is how it goes: At start-up, the light is on if it was on the last time the car ran. The light turns off during warm-up. The light comes back up a few miles away, right around the time the engine warms up. I imagine it is around the time it tries to go into closed loop. I am wondering if I am running in open loop full time because of this. I have replaced the oxygen sensor not too long ago (with a new bosch one). I have also replaced the EGR valve and connector (not new, but made no difference). I just replaced the TPS this morning and its connector because a couple of times I have gotten a sudden high idle in the past. Had no effect on the SES light. I would prefer not just switching out sensors till it is fixed, although with the fun OBD 1.5, that is a real possibility for me. I did try to use tunerpro to get some data from the computer, but this is the first time I have ever used it and so far I get some data, but it is erratic enough to call random. For the connection, I used RobertISaar's suggestion from another form for the USB cable. Like I said, not really an expert in tunerpro and have never tuned an EFI system before so I am not looking to do that, I just thought it would be an inexpensive alternative to getting raped by the local shops just to pull codes. I used the A and M pins for the connection. Only one other pin is used and I do not believe it has anything to do with the ECM. Now that your eyes hurt from reading my long post, does anyone around here have a tool capable of pulling codes from these cars? Comments and suggestions are also welcome. Thank you, Miller
  9. 1997 Olds Cutlass Supreme 2 door. So, I open my passenger side door and the fuse panel on the dashboard is exposed, the piece of cardboard that have been glued on, fell off. Not my doing, but the previous owners. I discover the following fuse/wire issue. Does anyone have any idea why someone would do this? My gut is telling me this isn't safe, but I'm worried that if I disconnect it, my car won't start or something catastrophic will happen. Those wires are hooked into the only 25amp fuses on that particular panel. The wires run down into the dash and I can't see where they go from there. Thanks in advance for any information/suggestions/guesses.
  10. As many of you, whom have already meet me know I’m from Angola, NY. I’ve been hesitant to attempt hosting a meet, but after some positive feedback in Erie, I’m going to at least try in 2015. For those whom aren’t familiar with Angola it’s uniquely situated like an island in the middle of the E/B and W/B lanes of I-90. Aside from service vehicles it’s virtually inaccessible by road, you have to park on either side of the highway and then there’s a long pedestrian bridge on either side that’s full enclosed that you have to walk through to get to the Travel Center (the heart of Angola). Ideally we’re looking at the weekend of May 8th-10th for the meet. For simplicity and pictures. We should all meet in the Westbound parking lot. You need to go past the Travel Center, and get off at the next exit (57A Angola/Eden) and immediately get back onto the NY Thru way going in the opposite direction. Yes, this involves surrendering and then obtaining a toll card, if you do a U-Turn and do not have the appropriate card you will get charged even more tolls than you would otherwise and you will also be delayed. Everyone going through Erie (for example Pittsburgh, Cleveland, Toledo, etc) will need to go to the meet in this manner, it may sound confusing, but you’ll get home quicker if you do things this way. http://www.thruway.ny.gov/travelers/...tp-angola.html There’s a Sunoco gas station on site (both sides) and once you walk across the bridges to Angola, there’s McDonalds, LavAzza, Moe’s Southwest Grill, Auntie Anne’s, Cinnabon and McDonald’s is open 24 hours a day!! Loads of sitting room. Wifi access is limited to 30 minutes or so, and plenty of bathrooms. Entertainment: I’m used to it since I live there, but this place (I’m told) is 100% non-stop excitement if you haven’t been there before. You can visit the Eastbound parking lot and twin Sunoco, the trucks look as if they are going to crash into you on the bridges, and I’m hoping that we could have a few photographers like maybe Eric, Rich and Lizzie take some neat passing shots from the bridges with us all parading under. We’re a ways out, but I’d consider a group trip to “Gay Road†if there’s interest. Accomodations: My place is obviously a little too small for this kind of thing, and I can’t really get close to accommodating everyone. I’ve been in contact with Galen and he can rent & fuel a climate controlled trailer for about $700 a day. (Climate controlled is heated only) which is why we’d have to have the meet so early because otherwise it could get pretty hot in those things! So if there was 10 people at the meet it would be $140, there would be some outlets in the trailer, but most of the time we’d be outside partying at the picnic area or inside Angola. You’d have to bring your own air mattress and/or sleeping bag. Questions?? Everyone asks me if I can get discounts at any of the restaurants inside the travel plaza. No, I cannot, you have to actually work for those places to get the discounts, and even then, they only apply to you. Just because I live in the Travel plaza, doesn’t mean that I somehow automatically work there, I have another job that’s not fast food. Do you have to walk all of the way to the Travel Plaza on the highway median to get food?? Not really, there’s rotundas out by the parking lot and there’s vending machines there with snacks & drinks. The real advantage to getting drinks inside and walking the walk is that you can buy one cup from McDonald’s put your name on it and go back for free refills all weekend long. I guess that I’m putting this thread out there to generate ideas and for those are considering going to ask questions.
  11. I can't seem to make the 'search' work, so I'm asking for a way to make my door hinge quiet--passenger side makes a loud clunk-cluck whenever I open or close the door. It is not either of the hinges making the racket, its the door-tensioner spring-thing near the bottom hinge. Driver's side is nice and quiet but the pass. side is loud and obnixious. Must the door panel come off? Is that a hard job? I have broken many plastic pieces when taking off door panels. Suggestions? BTW, its a '94 Cutlass Convert.
  12. Any info. on how to get the hood open with the cable broke? No piece of cable to get a hold of with a pliers. Guessing I have to get under the car and trip it some how.
  13. I'm using the term "HACK" as a parlance of our times, as in "LIFEHACK." This is a little trick I stumbled upon whilst flushing the coolant on my Impala. I purchased a Prestone Flush & Fill Kit and cut the heater hose that connects to the coolant pipe running to the top of the water pump housing. I then installed the garden hose tap across the breach in the heater hose. After flushing out the old coolant, I used the newly installed heater hose tap to fill the back side of the motor. I found that this drastically cuts down on the amount of bleeding that needs to be done when refilling the cooling system. Instead of filling the radiator and waiting for the thermostat to open, then refilling the radiator and bleeding both bleeders over and over and over again, adding coolant through the heater hose tap gets you "7/8ths" of the way full. Give it a try, it'll definitely save you time, and frustration!!! http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PRS0/AFKIT/N0185.oap?ck=Search_antifreeze+flush+kit%21s%21test_-1_-1&keyword=antifreeze+flush+kit%21s%21test
  14. Ok, so...window won't go down...motor runs...regulator does go up and holds my window closed. How do you get the freaking door panel off? I found a couple threads mentioning the hidden screw under the "don't hit my open car door" light, but is there anything holding the armrest on? How exactly do you get the door panel off? *mentally filed under 'things that are easier to do on g-bodies'*
  15. I've got a 2008 base Buick LaCrosse with a 3800 Series III V6 and under 50,000 miles. I got an oil change last week. The next day, the check engine light went on. I was wondering what they might have messed with at the dealership that possibly loosened a connection or knocked out a sensor. It was purely a coincidence. I went to an auto parts store. They scanned it with the OBD II device as a courtesy and it kicked out code p0128. This means "Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature." I was thinking that, most likely, I would be replacing the ECT sensor (not an expensive sensor) or the thermostat was stuck open. Tonight, when I drove off, the checking engine light went off. And it has stayed off. When the light went on, we had had a cold snap. Today, it was about 20 degrees F warmer outside. I'm wondering if this had anything to do with it and if I can ignore the issue. What do you think? Have you had check engine lights that came off and then sort of went away? Also, have you heard of this particular issue and could it have been caused a big drop in the temperature outside?
  16. I am not a fan of that fuel system service GM dealers try to sell - from $75 to $99, where they put some cleaning compound through the fuel and induction system. Right now, on a 2008 LaCrosse with a 3800 V6, I use branded fuel (Chevron, Shell, Texaco) some 90% of the time, don't let the tank go below 1/4 (because the fuel filter is in the tank),* and put in a bottle of Chevron Techron f.i. cleaner or STP concentrated f.i. cleaner every 5,000. So far, at under 50,000 miles, I'm still getting the EPA 30 mpg on the open road. Therefore, I told them I don't want this service. The last service adviser cleared all the recommended service items off my roster because I told him to do that and he knows I keep the car well maintained. I wasn't even this diligent with my last Buick 3800 and the injectors went for as long as I owned it - about 275,000 miles. Questions: - Am I doing this right, as far as fuel and fuel injector cleaner? - Can I put in the fuel injector cleaner more often - say every 3,000 miles, or is that excessive? - What's up with those fuel system service packages? I'm worried they might send too much cleaner through the system and mess with the injectors. Has anyone had that service done? Thanks.
  17. Arkin

    1993 LQ1 -> L27

    hello from Ukraine, people I'm new here, as I'm new with W-body. Bought a 1993 Z34 coupe. Got some issues with my DOHC - it starts really tough, we thought we got starter or battery problems but when took off the transmission and tryed manually rotate the engine - it revealed there is some point where we have to apply much strength to pass it, then it goes smooth, but then again that tough point. We are going to open the engine to see what's up there of course but I keep a Plan B in mind. Plan B : we got a 1994 Trans Sport in town, 3.8L, so are there any issues to bolt that 3.8 into my coupe? I can get the engine and all stuff under the hood including computer. By the way, do I got a 4t60 or 4t60E in 1993 z34? thanx
  18. DTC C1221 LF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 DTC C1225 LF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation DTC C1232 LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted DTC C1245 Right Front ABS Channel Does Not Move I'm assuming there's an issue with the front left wheel speed sensor. Since they're non-serviceable (yay, GM!), I've got a new wheel hub ready to go. Can someone confirm which side is the left and right? I figured the driver's side is the left side but I can't be too sure. I previously checked and the speed sensor is plugged in with no noticeable break in the wiring; however, I didn't check the resistance at the speed sensors. I'm going to do that before replacing the hub. C1245 has me a bit confused. I'm hoping this problem is in conjunction with the wheel speed sensor issue. Does anyone have more information?
  19. Hi all, The short story is I pulled the motor on my '92 GTP for a clutch job and I noticed my DIC is showing "CK. FUEL" with no speed/range/econ data available. I ran DIC diagnostics on it, and the 1st two digits agreed with my fuel level, but the 7th digit is showing an X instead of S, meaning an ECM serial data failure. So I tried connecting my Snap-On MT-2500 scanner to the ALDL line. It gets power, but can't connect to the ECM in scanning mode. I pulled it off and tested shorting the A&B ALDL pins, and the dash flashed the 1-2 code series to say everything's OK. The manual says that I should check my wiring on the orange 461 wire for short or open, but I haven't messed with anything in there lately and as far as I can tell it looks OK under the dash, and also from the firewall harness connector back to the ECM. I doubt it would be a problem in the DIC itself, but haven't ruled that out. Anyone else ever had this happen before? Is there another point where I can do continuity tests on that wire to figure out what's going on?
  20. I enjoyed the car very much. It had 198,000 miles on her, and ran very well up until now. After I had replaced the heater core I never had heat in the cabin. I thought I had air in the lines, and so I opened the bleeder screw on the passenger side open, and then close and open the driver side bleeder screw. After thinking I had bleed as much air out of the system, I topped off the radiator with more coolant, and thought I was good. Well, I noticed the temperature gauge barely moved up into the heated region, and I didn't think nothing of it. I kept driving and never saw any over heating condition until I herd a weird noise from the engine. Also, the RPMS would reach to 3,000 to hold 45mph. I knew then the car was ruined. I opened the hood, and the engine was hot as hell. I pulled the dipstick, and saw coolant mixed with oil. I killed her. I didn't run it enough to throw a rod, but i knew it wouldn't be much longer that It would. I can't decide if its worth to replace the engine, or just buy another $2,500 car. I have seen 98 luminas go for around $700.00 at an auction. Has anyone been in a similar situation? Added: Another thing that happend was the coolant resevoir hardly moved between cold and hot states. The upper radiator hose was hot as hell, and the lower radiator hose was Luke warm.
  21. I have a really odd HVAC panel in my 95 CS. It is not the dual zone, but it is not vacuum, as it's all wires behind it. Air is stuck at defrost. Fan speed and hot/cold work fine. Thought maybe faulty switch, replaced with a JY one same deal. Checked all fuses. It sounds like the door is not wanting to open, can hear a faint electrical noise like it wants to. Any other ideas? I have a feeling its the mode door. I hope not, because I don't wanna tear out the dash to fix it.
  22. So I finally felt froggy this weekend and decided to take off the interior door panel of my 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix SE while the door was still closed. That was fun. After playing around for a while with the inner and outer rods to open the door I discovered that I need a new latch/lock assembly, a new exterior door handle rod and just to even things out a new exterior door handle. BTW, I have electrics locks and windows. My first question is, is there a way to take out the inner metal skin from the outer metal skin so I can get to the inner workings of the door easier? I was taking a closer look and it appears that the two are welded together. I already know that I'm going to have to remove the seat belt assembly. Tanks for any info in advance.
  23. Ok, the high revving problem has been solved on my 94 cutlass 3.4 engine, now another has popped up. When I go to start the car sometimes she fires on the first turn of the key. Lately when I turn the key it takes three or more attempts to get it to turn over. The car has a new battery and alternator and when I check the battery voltage it reads 12.2 to 13 volts, and the in dash volt gauge reads 13 volts. As the car s driven the voltage moves two lines into the red zone. This does not happen all the time but it has me a bit concerned as to what is going on. I've checked the battery cables, fuse's, grounds and wiring. My gut is telling me it's a starter solenoid, but my son is thinking it's an ignition problem. I'm looking for any input and am open to suggestions.
  24. 4 fell off presumably upon removal of the injectors. Little black pastic sleeves or open caps that snap on the end of the injector. Will these just burn up or gum up my cylinders? Are they necessary for proper operation of the injectors? Or is the o ring all that's needed? You can't seem to buy them anywhere. Would some rtv make up the difference? If so what type? I have red on hand. 2001 3.4L. Thanks in advance.
  25. Hi guys, I am a poor father of 2. I just bought a 98 Monte Carlo z34 with 109,000 at a charity auction. One owner So Ca and it seems to have sat for 2 years. I was actually able to talk to the owner prior to buying and he said he did all the maintenance (yet 2 old open recalls were not done-steering and engine fires) so I don't really know. He also said the emergency flasher button broke and the blinkers stopped working. I took the car to chevy for the recalls and an oil change Do I do a transmission flush or a change? (I know old bmw's-they say not too as they start to slip) Do I do a coolant flush or change Issues:The car gets stuck in park and I have to pull up the console cover and push down that button. The button on the shifter seems to be working fine. I read here about unplugging the solenoid. Will that work in my case? The blinkers...Any thoughts? Thanks, Steve
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