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  1. Ok any of you that have owned a 60 degree V6 such as the 3100 or 3400 will be familiar with this tube, it runs from the rear valve cover to the intake tube just in front of the throttle body. If you are like me you have probably attempted Teflon tape and or RTV to keep the valve cover end in with not much luck. I have searched for a rubber grommet without success and for years it has just rested in place. Well at the beginning of the year I was working on a GAGT with a 3400 and came up with a nice solid airtight fix. This is what is getting replaced, don't throw it out just yet, you will need part of it. You will need that tube ^ 2. Permatex Ultra black RTV 3. 1 FT of PVC hose 19/32, this will be cut to fit approximately. 4. 1x FORD PVC elbow AutoZone P/N 47032 Tools include a hack saw or serrated cutting tool for cutting the factory tube without bending or breaking it, a file or sandpaper for removing a lip on the PVC elbow and something to cut the 19/32 hose, it also helps to have the ICM/coil pack assembly removed. First get your engine ready for the mod/repair by removing the ICM assembly(I will assume you the reader can do this in your sleep, if not consult your repair manual you NOOB!){this is a joke we all started somewhere} Next locate your purchased FORD elbow and proceed to remove this ONE lip. The one on the side pointing UP in the pic, the other end can be worked into the 19/32 hose for an airtight bond without anything. I used a file and enjoyed a cold beer while doing so. Also note the flat "washer" area of the elbow where my thumb is, this is where you put the RTV and fix it to the rear valve cover. Now once the elbow is filed and the other end in the hose find the original tube and cut off the elbow that fits into the air intake tube. You can make the cut exactly at the elbow. That part fits right into the 19/32 hose. Place your newly created assembly into the rear valve cover and eyeball where you need to make your cut at the intake tube, then RTV the Ford elbow to the rear vale cover and insert the other end into the intake tube then let the RTV cure for about an hour. Pretty self explanatory but feel free to ask any questions should they arise. Update after relocating images! After several months everything holds up quite nice. Ive removed the air intake tube several times since this and the rear valve cover end stay nice and secure.
  2. MaD


    Anyways, so, I was at Murray's last night and I started browsing the exhaust aisle. I became intrigued by the mufflers that they had there. (I didn't know mufflers were so cheap!, I was under the assumption they'd be around $200, don't ask why... (midas)...) So anyways, There was some no-name brand for like $20 and a couple of Dynomax ones (I suppose I've heard good things about them). I saw the Dynomax "Super Turbo" muffler, as well as their "Ultraflo welded" something or other. Now, The "super turbo" was roughly $40 and the other one was $60. Initially, I assumed the more expensive one would be the better one, but then I started reading the back of the box with all the flow-rates and I started to wonder if the UltraFlo's 1,440cfm flow-rate was indeed something I'm looking for.... After all, that's seems a bit excessive.. The Super Turbo, on the other hand, was flowing somewhere around 350cfm (That seems a little low). When I looked at the design, I could see why it was such a drastic difference. The innards looked like a "z" , while the Ultraflo's was simply a straight pipe with holes going through some fiberglass. Then, I started to realize, "I really don't know what all these numbers mean". So here I am. Ok, well, I know that to gain performance, you must lose some back-pressure, but if you lose TOO much back-pressure, performance suffers and if I remember correctly, this is bad for the engine. (Any truth to this?) Well anyways, the part that I'm stuck at is the "cut-off" point. I don't know exactly when perforrmance starts to degrade. Basically, I want to squeeze out as much perfomance as I can by putting a new muffler on. (My car is slow enough as it is) Oh, I don't care about sound at all, so if losing backpressure makes the car loud as hell, so be it. Ok, now, for what I already have. (I don't even know if this makes a difference) I have pretty much stock everything. Stock cat, stock 2 1/4 piping (it IS 2 1/4, right?) , etc. I do have a warm-air intake (It's a K&N cone filter) So that's great in getting the air IN, but it needs to leave too. I also have a FDP chip (not sure if that matters)... Oh, and I don't have head work or anything like that done. So pretty much bone stock. I AM looking to buy a 2.5in catco high-flow converter (or ANY high-flow converter) one of these days. And if I can find a nice, cheap place, I might go with a custom 2.5in catback. But for now, I just wanna put in a muffler. I DO wanna get that Ultraflo (which is 2.5in in/out), but again, I'm not sure if that would make me lose too much back-pressure/performance. Also, if it's NOT too much, if I ever get the 2.5inch complete exhaust, will it be too much then? Gah, sorry if this is hard to decipher. Hopefully someone knows what I mean. One last thing, there shouldn't be a problem welding the 2.5in muffler to my existing 2 1/4in piping, right? they can just use a reducer or something, right? Thanks, and sorry this is such a long post. -MaD-
  3. Okay the engine starts fine when cold. The engine starts fine when up to temp and restarting within 5 minutes of shutting it off. If the car sits for 15 minutes to 45 minutes, the engine will fire and then drop down in rpms almost stalling or it will just stall. If I give it a bit of gas when the engine fires and keep the rpms up for 30 seconds the engine will stay running. The car has had a complete tune up, new fuel pump, gas tank, fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure is good and steady. The intake gaskets and plenium have been replaced. TPS , MAP, MAF, Crank and Cam sensors have all been replaced. All vacuum lines have been replaced. No codes are being thrown. Anyone have any ideas?
  4. Hey all, New to forum and not 100% sure how this "Posting" business works, but here goes. Does anybody know why my 95 LQ1 GP does not have a MAP sensor? May sound like a total noob question but I've seen several images of an LQ1 intake diagram and they all show MAP.
  5. Ok, I am cleaning out the garage and basement, and just want these parts gone. I am open to all offers. If you make an offer, shipping will be calculated after. OEM GM 3.4L intake manifold gaskets Convertible top switch Oldsmobile alero/intrigue key cyl L67 supercharger coupler GM 6 disc ch changer magazines 2001 Grand Prix Dealer brochure LTZ/Z34 center cap 1st Gen Seat Belt Extender Headlight/HUD Switch OEM GM Z34 badges GM 10 disc changers. 1 - 97, 1 - 94. 2 door door handles inner parts PN found on them Gentex Mirror 267 Donnelly with map lights G6 mirror And for a really rare one, an Add-on On-Star attachment on a GNTX-177
  6. Hi all! I was just wondering, I have a ram air intake on my 3100 ls Monte and I had it fall down a few times now over bumps because it is freely hanging there, and its clamped fairly tight on there now but, and I was just wondering if I can just put a cone right on the TB? I know older muscle cars do it like Novas and there carbd but I was wondering if I can do that also? I have a O2 sensor and a mass air flow sensor and IDK if I can do this or not. I see when ppl install FWIs that they do not do these sensors? So can I just clamp a cone on my TB or no? Thanks in advance!
  7. Hey guys I'm new here, just trying to sell an engine. I picked this motor up a few years ago as a backup but I've got no use for it now as I sold the Monte Carlo I had. The motor is a complete 1991-1993 long block, from cylinder heads to oil pan. It includes every engine sensor, water pump, and alternator all brand new. There is not a used part on this engine, not even a bolt. I will include a box of used parts with the motor, along with the factory service manuals for the engine. There is a 91-93 lower intake manifold, fuel rail, 2 sets of fuel injectors, upper intake manifold, engine cover, and several (Maybe 4-5?) valve covers. Shipping is on you. I can build a crate for the engine and have it sent via freight, or you can drive out to Denver, Colorado and pick it up. Price is firm at $1,200. Thanks!
  8. I looked for the post I made asking for help on this issue ,but cannot find. The '95 Cutty would 'cam' at start up, (idle would bounce up to 3000+ and down low and would stall). Cold made this worse. Once engine warmed up problem went away. My mech found a vaccuum leak under the intake/plenum. I did not see the part, it was a special grommet under the top of the motor. It took days for the part to come in (rare?) My mech considers the 3.4 a rare engine, I don't. So not sure if the grommet fixed the problem or if taking it apart and putting it back together fixed it. It is fixed thankfully. Almost $600 though... Hope this helps someone else.
  9. I came across an issue recently which has left me with some questions. My friend has a 2001 Impala 3800. We replaced the motor when he got it and replaced many gaskets including from the LIM up. This was a handful of years ago and used plastic gaskets. I later did another LIM gasket job on a 97 LeSabre when my mother bought the car, knowing of the gasket issues and at that time used the Fel-Pro metal gasket and using Haynes manual torque specs. Fast forward to today when my friend tore apart the intakes on the Impala to find trouble with the LIM itself. After sitting for ~2 years, the car had even more problems than when it was parked. The LIM gaskets were plastic on the outside with whatever synthetic rubber gasket in the middle and more plastic in the middle. This plastic swells and bows inward, pulling the gasket material with it. I guess from the car sitting so long, the nasty old coolant eroded the LIM around one of the coolant ports and had to be replaced because it would never seal again. Today at the junkyard while grabbing an injector the car had aluminum LIM gaskets which turned out to be the Delco's. Now these Delco gaskets have the same fatal flaw as the other gaskets! They have plastic on the inside around the ports that showed swelling around the coolant ports. It has been so long since I did the Fel-Pro's on the LeSabre that I don't remember it having plastic inside, and I can't really tell by pics, it just looks all black. So here is the burning question - Is there a change in torque spec for the metal gaskets? I know on the 3500 LX9 it had little metal inserts around the bolt holes to avoid over torquing, but I really don't remember if they changed the torque spec there either. The car we unbolted at the junkyard had bolts on fairly tight (no thread locker), whereas all of the other LIM jobs I have done had many bolts roughly finger tight (if that). I wasn't sure if maybe there was a revision to the torque specs along with the new gasket design. I see there is a TSB 634708 revised lower intake manifold installation. However, I only see the heading description and everywhere I look I don't see the details. I have searched around a bit trying to find information, but everyone is using the same torque, many quoting the same Haynes manual as I used when fixing the LeSabre. Without knowing the details of the TSB, I can't be certain that this isn't going to be happening again. I would rather get both these cars squared away now with the right gaskets and torque specs and not have to deal with coolant getting into these engines. If anyone has access to the TSB and can tell me what it says, if anything, about the torque specs, then it would be greatly appreciated.
  10. Hello fellaz, I just purchased my second Regal GS, and since I didn't mod my first one I plan on goin balls deep into this one. Anywho I bought the car knowing it needed a trans, but the price was one I couldn't refuse. I have a pretty good starting point. Super clean interior for a 98, only 122K on odometer, and a slew of new parts. Even already has a K&N cold air intake. Needless to say I'm on the hunt for my tranny first so any help would be greatly appreciated. Doesn't have to be low miles since I plan on rebuilding my original. Just wanna know the mileage and get a fair price. Also any modification ideas would be greatly appreciated. P.S what should I do before going to a smaller pulley on the SC?
  11. Hello Everyone! It has been a long time since I have posted on this forum. I was unemployed for at least 4 months, and during the first month of unemployment I overheated the Chevy Lumina, and I had it towed home to prevent further damage. I bought a second vehicle as the new job was going to have a longer commute time. The Lumina has sat in the garage, and I have wondered if it was worth to fix, or send it to the junk yard. I decided to keep it, and learn from what I did wrong, and so the adventure has been fun. I have removed the heads, and had them checked, cleaned and surfaced. The Lower Intake manifold gaskets were completely blown. I noticed the lower intake manifold had pitting around the coolant jackets, and I bought another one from a yard to prevent possible failure when I put everything back together. While I have the motor torn completely down. I am wanting to know how to remove the oil pan, and replace the gasket. I have read some people have suggested pulling the motor out. I am optimistic as I have read someone managed to tilt the pan in order to remove it. I have pulled the 10MM bolts that are around the pan, but still finding a way to get at the bolts on the side of the pan. The pan sits on the mount. I am looking for suggestions on the best way to continue forward to remove it. Does anyone have a write up? I have removed the A/C compressor, the Starter, the transmission bracket, Starter Fly-Wheel Cover, oil-filter windage tray, and the passenger side motor mount is un bolted. Pictures to follow soon.
  12. Hi I'm Kevin. I have a 2004 Buick Century that I got back in October. Its been a solid car. It survived being rear-ended at 35mph(No one was severely hurt) back on January 3rd. It only has 19,770 miles and counting. I've only done small things too it. The roof was once beige which was too old person-ish for me so I made it black, added an aftermarket air intake, and it has a thrush muffler. I plan on doing a lot more in late spring/early summer.
  13. Made a thread about engine issues, but sourced an engine. Topic is no longer needed anymore.
  14. fast buick

    Lx9 swap

    hello to all im getting ready to swap in a Lx9 3.5 from a 2006 pontiac g6 its going into a 2000 buick century i already got new metal intake gasket set n throttle adapter n waiting on external crank trigger n also to take care of the map sensor plug n two wire temp. sensor n cam sensor plug im using fuel injector wireing harness from 2005 impala 3.4 which takes care of all the connectors ok now my car use 3 wire temp. sensor but 3.5 use 2 wire n so does the impala harness it should work fine right? n im very excited cause i do believe tht im going be first to swap in Lx9 into buick century but let me kn please also i already got the Lx5 throttle body n im using the 3.5 upper still but im modify the fuel reg. bracket
  15. Need the part # for the rubber vacumn connector=(4 preferably or 3 lines 1989 & up?-) that sits on top of the intake plenum near the maf sensor. this is for a 1988 olds cutlass with 2.8 engine. FWD model. This rubber part has 3 plastic vacumn lines coming from it. Thanx
  16. Hi, I'm just about done replacing head gaskets and intake manifold gaskets on a 96 Grand Prix with a 3.1L and finishing this car. This site has been great help! Anyway, me and another guy have both been working on this thing, I'm not sure if he took this vacuum hose off or I did, but for the life of me I can't figure out where it goes! It goes down into the left front. I'm a newb, so bare with me if this is obvious. Vacuum diagram doesn't prove to be much help either, I think I have the rest of the vacuum hoses correct. Any help is very much appreciated! Thanks in advance. John.
  17. It's time to ask a fuel injector question of my own. This is the situation with my '94 Cutlass LQ1. At 150K an injector or many started leaking, dumping fuel in the intake while car was off. I either had to crank a long time or floor the gas pedal to lean it out enough to get it started Not having a way to figure out which were leaking I replaced all of them with remanned by Autoline (bad decision). It ran perfect for a month then started cranking longer sometimes. Within a 6 months 1 failed resulting in an intermittent violent surge at idle (400- 1500 a few seconds then die. Thought it was a vacuum leak. I did find a couple of small ones with no resolution. I finally took it to the dealership, they found the faulty injector. They said anything less than 12 ohms was considered faulty. One measured 11 ohms. Then again this was for a '94 lQ1. the injector was replace under warranty, but labor was a lot. I wish I would have bought NEW ones, I still might just to be done with it. It still cranks a while sometimes. This is happening again. I talked them in in to replacement under warranty or money back. Anybody have experience with: GB manufacturing (reman) Standard automotive (new) Accel (new) 23lb/hr. Thanks for your input.
  18. TravisP


    Anyone willing to share who is doing your tuning? I have a '96 3.1 Lumina that we tried a '97 computer with a tune on it and it wouldn't run. I put the '96 back in and it runs without any codes, but you can tell it is less than ideal. If you want particulars on the motor you can look at my profile. Basically It has ported heads, upper and lower intake, and a performance cam. The only one in my area that I would trust to dyno tune it is booked and the mail order I referred to didn't work. I have a stall converter and it runs great once you hit part throttle. I know I can't expect stock bottom end, but I know with tuning it can be better. If anyone has any suggestions on what trouble codes need to be disabled to make the '97 work it would be greatly appreciated:biggrin:
  19. hey i have a 2000 buick century original 3100 v6 then i swapped to 3400 v6 from impala now im going to swap a 3500 v6 Lx9 non vvt from a 2005 malibu now im nt new to engine swaps at all but my question is im nt understanding this "external crank trigger" why cant i swap in block crank sensor from my 3400 into the 3500 im talking bout the one for the coils and use my crank pully onto the 3500 n put my other crank sensor tht goes behind the pully im going to use my 3400 upper intake and coils please let me kn
  20. I have a random wire that has is blue by my alternator. The alternator btw has the red one screwed in and the other one is plugged in so i do not think it goes to the alternator. Im hetting a servive engine soon light. i just replaced my intake manifold upper and lower. Of which the car starts fine and idles at 1k rpm and gets about middle of the temp guage. I revved it and drove it down the street at about 30 mph. I figuire if this wire is a sensor then that could be causing the check engine light. Posting a pic.
  21. Hello All and Happy New Year! My wife purchased a 1990 Regal Gran Sport Coupe new and drove it until 2005. It was parked with about 160K well maintained miles. She bought a new vehicle and decided against trading in or selling the Regal as it was her 1st new car. It has sat outdoors under a car cover until just a couple of months ago. We made space for it in the garage. I have put it on stands. She wants me to get in back into shape so she can have it as a "play" car. It's the 3.1L V-6 and I have tore it down to the intake manifold so I can replace the gaskets. I plan to pretty much refurbish everything to new or as close to new as possible. I will post up some pics on the progress.
  22. Here is an interesting one... I live in Buffalo and we got a foot of snow last night. I come back home and notice green water on the driveway. I was completely confused as I don't have any green fluids in my car. After further inspection, the water is dripping down off the exhaust pipe before the gas tank. There are no brake or gas lines near that spot and the colors don't match those fluids anyways. The only thing I could dig up is Cr2O3 which is chromium oxide which can form on stainless steels in furnaces that have poor intake sealing. Its the only thing plausible I can come up with. Apparently I'm the first person on the internet to experience this as google comes up empty. Anyone else have green water coming off their exhaust pipes?
  23. Sorry that this is a bit long winded... I have spent some time lurking and reading the great info on this site. The search function is pretty nice and I try and use it before I ask a question that has been asked 100's of times before. I do have a specific question about a 90 Regal with a 3.1L. I have read the intake manifold gasket material changed over the years. Some engines were equipped with metal/rubber gaskets while others had a plastic type gasket. The plastic gasket is prone to fail. As I understand it, a symptom of a blown intake gasket is frothy peanut buttery goo under the oil fill or radiator cap. Mine does not have that so I believe that for now the gasket is intact. Here's the question, should I believe I have a metal gasket or tear it down and replace it? The car was bought new then parked in 2005 with about 168k. It's been sitting for nearly 10 years. I never tried to start it during that time but have recently decided to see if I could but it back in service. I have rotated the engine and it moves freely. Knowing that all the systems (fuel, brake, tranny, cooling,electrical) need attention should I go ahead and replace the intake manifold gaskets too? I have the plenum and many ancillary parts removed. The intake is exposed. I found a couple of YouTube videos plus I have the factory service manual. It's not outside my skill set but right now I have the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mentality. Pro's/con's?? Thanks! Oh, the power steering pump is a leaker but I'll save that for later:)
  24. 94 Cutlass convertible with 3.4L DOHC has been down a month, took weeks to get all the parts, and many hours of back-breaking work later, it's all back together. ...but it won't start. What caused it to die in the first place is the FPR went bad and it flooded everything full of fuel. Made a thread about it here: Went ahead and replaced spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, plug wires, plugs, oil manifold gasket, and lower intake manifold gasket while I was at it. Back to the problem: I had checked the fuel pressure before I put it back together. Ohm'd the injectors, all the same at 12.4-ohms. Just over 40psi with the pump running, nothing dripping out of any injectors, nothing coming out of the FPR vacuum line. I thought that part was fine. I noticed now the fuel pressure bleeds off pretty quick and then slows down at 10psi. Weird. What would cause this, if FPR doesn't leak? Usually means leaky injectors in my experience, but no fuel came out of them when I tested it earlier. Wish I'd checked pressure bleed off time when I had the fuel rail loose, but either I didn't think of it or it seemed normal enough I didn't notice. It kind of acts like it wants to start when I crank it, but it doesn't. I noticed a little bit of smoke underhood. Not sure where it's coming from, just like a light mist of smoke everywhere. Also, cranking sounds kind of weird. More whiney. Is it possible fuel getting in a cylinder could have made it jump time, like if it had been fuel hydrolocked and I didn't realize it? I take it this would show on a compression tester? I guess I'd need some kind of DOHC adapter to get a compression tester to fit. Is there any that is an ideal length for the 3.4 DOHC? I'm so frustrated and depressed. Sadly, this might be the end of the line for the car. I may have to junk it or sell it cheap and just buy something else. We were going to sell the car in the next year anyway, but I was hoping I could keep it running till we find something else. Oh well.
  25. needing some info and help on how to replace my gaskets on the intake manifold and lower manifold and valve cover gaskets i will be doing this by myself so just want to do it right first time thanks
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