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I can see the box in the back of my garage. Still can not get to it at the moment... Getting there!

Update on the water temp lamp: it does turn on when grounding the sensor at it's connector. So the Instrument Cluster works just fine, exept during the lamp test when starting the car. According to the service manual, the temperature lamp test procedure just happens because the input of the sensor is connected to ground by turning the key in the start position, which is all happening outside of the instrument cluster. In my previous post I said the sensor effectively grounds when turning the key to start, but I actually measure an open loop between C4 (sensor) and D8 (supposed to be ground) of the connector that goes into the cluster, until the key goes to the start position: then I measure 54 Ohm. which is sufficient to make the gage go all the way up (60 ohm would correspond to 137°C or 279°F), but is maybe just not low enough for the lamp: the service manual states the indicator control unit switches the lamp on at ca. 60 ohm and below. I will investigate this a bit more, it seems something is wrong here, logically, I should measure the resistance of the sensor in any key position except start, and less then 1 ohm when the key is in start.

Can someone help me program a 2001 pcm off a Monte to work on a 2003 4t65e since the valve body and internal wiring was changed during this year. I've been looking for a alternative pcm by the way but I'm focusing on seeing if i can get help on programming the 03 sensors since i used credits on hp tuners already.

Thank you. Not in this case actually. This was my car's original motor with 153,000 miles. I couldn't figure out what was causing it to NOT start after years of working on it when I had the time and money. The culprit ended up being a faulty wiring harness due to the previous owners not correctly repairing it...totally not the cars fault. My NOS motor of course has a brand new O ring that you're referring too. I have since put an NOS motor in it and it runs beautifully. I just completed about 1,000 miles on it. Yeah, these motors get a bad rap I feel. I'm not one of those people. I actually prefer the LQ1 over any other motor that was available in these cars. I also own a 93 Grand Prix STE with the same drivetrain and wouldn't want it any other way! I am well versed mechanically now in these motors and have the patience, determination, and like anything mechanical, the correct tools. The specialty tools are very much needed when working on an LQ1. The same goes for any 4 cam 24 valve engine from this era from any manufacturer really.

@jiggity76 - that is impressive work. Have you replaced the oil plug gasket/o-ring? When bought my Cutlass in 2007, I told a mechanic that It had the 3.4 DOHC, he advised me to sell the vehicle. He had a Pontiac with the 3.4 and hated working on it due to the tight clearances and the added complexity the DOHC configuration added to the engine.

Do you have a write up on this? I need to do this so I can have a horn again. lol

I'm looking to do this swap on my 93 vert. What would i need to do this? or would it be plug and play??? I see that in the 94 it is a different pin out. I know the 93 is different then the 94's though. Has anyone here done it in a 93?

If it's the same as the 92, it's behind the rear passenger seat, under the trim panel.

I repaired the tacho by installing a trimmer potentiometer of 500kOhm in parallel to pin 4 and 10 and cutting the connection of pin 4 of the existing resistor. That way, the old resistor is out of the circuit, which is necessary if it is not yet fully desintegrated: the resistance would otherwise still creep up and make the rev counter go too high again in the future. I do not have any equipment for a bench test, so I glued the potentiometer on the back of the tacho circuit board so the screw faces a vent hole on the top of the instrument cluster (see picture). This allowed me to install the cluster in the car and do live fine tuning of the resistance using a small screwdriver. Using an Actron CP9690 Elite, I am able to read out the exact rpm from the ALDL connector of the car. The potentiometer I used is a CT-94 eW504 (1 euro in the local electronics shop), the 18 turns of adjustment were enough to do a fine adjustment. I took the cluster apart again after adjustment in order to measure: It ended up at 210.9kOhm. For reference: the old one was above 700kOhm, resulting in the tacho showing about 3.5 times the actual rpm. You can by the way perfectly measure the resistance on the board, this part of the circuit is 'isolated' so you are not measuring any other resistance in parallel of the circuit between pin 4 and 10. So the tacho is repaired, as long as my soldering will stand the test of time . Only issue remaining is the warning light of the water temp not briefly turning on during startup. It used to work a year ago (when I started this thread...). On the instrument cluster connector, C4 (the temperature input) effectively grounds to D8 when the key is turned to start. The gage works perfect, including going all the way up when the starter motor is running. Lamp and all circuits seem OK, apart from what seems a hair crack on a trace, but I measure a perfect connection. I should try to ground the sender to see if the lamp would at least work eventually with an overheated engine, but I am afraid to break the plastic connector of the sender cable. The few start-ups I found on youtube also don't show the the lamp flashing, although it should, so it is probably a common issue.

What is the location of this REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY CONTROL MODULE 10063538 OEM for a 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme & is this even the correct part#? I've been told in the trunk, back seat right side & under the dash for this part.

I've seen worse on these cars. Usually the trailing arm it self gives way before the mount separates from the rest of the car. I've seen people driving these with broken TA mounts and arms. Just keep up with the fluid film that will slow the rust down. Don't try to paint it, the paint will just trap the rust and it will grow under the paint.

Yeah, I know. Your pics of that area didn't look that bad really. I was just ranting.

well I dont see why the whole thing would have to come out if the floor is solid. Looking thru the hole in the mount with a flashlight the upper floor looks to still have paint on it! Its just the unibody "box" or channel that is rusted out.

My '95 vet has had the same issue for a couple of years, now. The passenger side rear window doesn't work, either from the driver's door switch or the one just below the window. Life's been throwing enough else at me that I haven't had the energy to worry about it, but it's on the list (litany?) of things that need fixing on this car.

Thank You for reading. I hope to have it at a show one day.

Just so you know, I believe when these cars were assembled, GM sandwiched that mount and plate area between the floor pan and that box section. I almost wonder if the entire rear section of the interior would need to come out for a replacement or patch panel. In other words, I wonder if that structural area was dropped from the inside of the cars interior and then welded in.

Wow I cannot believe I missed this, my first car is the 1994 Cutlass I still have. Its sat on the backburner for a number of years while other cars got all the attention but I think I`ll get into it leading into the weekend. I`d love to see your car one day at a show or meet up.

Yes they are solid but the rocker attached to it is toast i might just drive it up on ramps because I have to align the wheel as well when making the ta mount. I think im gonna make some new rockers & dog leg area for it too while im under there. Is it easier to just weld and bolt a thick plate into the floor and put another plate on the top and then bolt a 2nd gen mount into that or is it easier to make all custom.

Are the pinch welds good on that section in front of the rear wheels? That's actually the place GM says to use as a support point.

Does anyone here have experience welding in a new section on these cars I dont have a lift and want to know if its possible on jackstands while laying under the car.

Thank You for reading. I'm glad you liked it. As of now I am still working on it. I am currently working on my Great Grandpa 1978 Chevy. That story is also on this forum. My Great Grandfathers Truck.

Sorry if you know this already but the part # from GM is 25536881. No NOS ones are available anymore. Now, there is this one being available and showing that number of 25536881 being interchangeable with it so maybe this is the aftermarket replacement. https://www.ebay.com/itm/354437432150?epid=4045192223&itmmeta=01HYGXZGPHA0FR1PERRTDQ5AM6&hash=item52861e0356:g:UrUAAOSw9lNlxrF2&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4J0fTXa61Yuya6JQSHsCCPxtoeHQnPz3ZI6WLg5rYoFMxuA2402vcBFI4seeitcqJHwtOBAlPT%2Bt0PlzIGMXoFbpfNXJdVXJsFF66anjozJYd%2BXp8m2JEg7ojzHxPxU%2FoSaIG%2FXUW95rLHFRoqbvdXsht8utd7Mxi25EB4LhTYXvCWJNlFheI0IUP4V7wxsh56JKBKtK2KXYIORCb1LeWKq70gIWKBW1TDs7Obvzw2J%2BYtgwsyKRSlmafalXMPgsCEBzbZOC7oBr%2BBCB%2FqjjM6cLgrQulmyOz5M8JoSYLlyr|tkp%3ABFBMpov-nfRj

Can you guys be more specific? What canister...for the one at the rear of the car I'm guessing?

Treasure Yard?