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Found 585 results

  1. So I'm in the middle of making a UB3 adapter for a digi cluster. And I want to make sure Im doing this right. For example I'd take the C2 on the digi cluster end and connect it to the D4 on the connector that is in the car. I have a digi UB3 connector and the end of a 94 analog where it plugs into the cluster. I solder all the wires from the factory 94 female connector to the male end. Then I have to take the digi wires and connect them to the other side. Any objections to the way I'm doing it? I think it will be good enough. I already have wires spliced into my cluster wires for the DIS. EDIT: Reference. http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/48646-Digital-UB3-install-in-94-CS-with-analog-UB3 That is what I'm going by.
  2. just bought a floor shift model full digital cluster to replace my stock broken base cluster I moved pins around to make it work best I could since the junkyard one has no harness so far I have working both turn signal indicators(before left was out) high beam (before wasn't working) brake engine low coolant temp gauge(ran wire direct to new sender) oil gauge (still has switch so shows max) volts gauge( just replaced alternator stays in middle whole time) fuel(works way better than base one which was bouncing all over) eng/metric switch Not working Tach (ran c13 direct to orange on diag port and nothing) seatbelt light(I think that was yellow one) have about 5-6 extra wires and this cluster has a extra 8x2 plug I don't have Any ideas on the correct pinouts for this swap and why is the tach still dead Also my speedometer is way too fast and says 99mph at 75Mph (GPS Speed) it does this with both clusters...
  3. I'm trying to find out how many miles are on my digital cluster, so I just need to know what pins i need to power up to be able to view it, or the whole cluster since I've never powered up the whole thing. Thanks
  4. I have a 1992 Cutlass Supreme S with the base model digital instrument cluster without the tachometer. It is flickering on and off, and some times just stays off and some times it works fine. It's going to need repair or replaced since these clusters are known to have problems. Can anybody recommend a repair facility that is able to repair the cluster? I will be able to remove the cluster myself and install it. When I bought the Cutlass , the owner told me that the cluster needed repair, and that he had bought a cluster, and tried to fix it, but it did not work. He gave me the spare cluster when I purchased the car. I just took a good look at it, and I know why it did not work. It is the international version cluster with tachometer made in Japan by Denso. I guess I can try to sell the international cluster to somebody that needs one because I don't want to go through all the hassle of rewiring and adapters.
  5. For sale or trade. Will trade for good condition base digital cluster no tachometer. Also will trade for a good condition 3/8 drive ratchet style torque wrench. Not exactly sure which years this cluster fits, but I do know it fits various years. It's the international version with tachometer made in Japan by Denso. Part number is 16124373. There are some other numbers on it too, and these can be seen in the pictures. Lens is not cracked but does have some scratches which is normal. Seal is still in place, and it looks like the cluster has never been opened. I received this cluster when I bought the car recently. Seller informed me that the standard three gauge cluster was malfunctioning, and that he had tried to use the Denso cluster, but it did not work because the pin outs are different. I am going to have my standard three gauge cluster repaired instead of trying to re-pin or hack on the wiring to get the international version to work. $40 shipped via US post mail standard to continental USA, and the part is sold as is. I will take Paypal or postal money order. I will have to use a whole roll of bubble wrap on it three to four inches thick. Edit: Got the cluster fired up, and it is sitting under the hood of my car when the pictures were taken. The yellowish glow on the cluster is my engine bay lamp reflection. Hard to take a picture outside with all the glare, but that's where the 12 volts was at that I needed to light it up. Edit: Found the part number on the web. It fits 88-93. And on the notes it fit some 94's. http://www.gmpartscenter.net/oe-gm/16124373
  6. My mother's 98 Lumina LS, all the lights turn on, but the Lights for the Guages, Fuel, RPM, Speedometer, And Temp arnt comming on, went ahead and serviced the 3 fuse boxes and replaced all the fuses and cleaned all the terminals, replaced all the bulbs in all the sockets, in the cluster, A/C controller, and door switches. Can't figured out what's making the lights not come on. What's left to check? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Grabbed a 2nd Dash Cluster and wanting to replace all the bulbs with Saudered on LEDs with Resistors between the + connection and the bulbs since they run about 3v vs 12-14v the car sends to the stock bulbs. Looking for a diagram of the board to find out which leads at positive and negative Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Just replaced the Steering Wheel accessory switch 6 months ago, yesterday the Brake lights stopped working, Turn signals, and indicators on the cluster for them, brake light in back glass still works, fuses are all fine. before I switch it out again just wanting to verify more than likely it's a faulty switch, thanks ahead of time! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Hi everyone I'm new here. This is my second lumina my old one was a 96 ls. Now I have a 95 base and I want the tach back. My local jy doesn't have any but my friend has a police cluster. I've been reading the posts and I was looking for a pinout so I can hook the vss, power, and ground or were to solder it to the board but everywhere I look at the pictures are gone. Also my friend can't remember what year it came out of so I might have a fuel problem if I do is there anyway to get it to work.
  10. I honestly can't tell if the Passkey 2 system in my 1998 Monte Carlo is bad and in a bypass mode if that is even possible. Or if it has been physically bypassed at a certain time in the car's life. When I pulled the cluster out to reinstall the Chg Oil Soon bulb, I noticed the security bulb had been pulled, so I swapped a bulb into its socket, and when the car is on and started, it just stays lit. Never had any issue with it starting at all. I would think if it was bypassed, the light wouldn't be on at all since the system would just be tricked into thinking the proper key WAS in the ignition. But also confused because if it was just a fault in the system, it usually strands people, and the car is unusable until repaired, or bypassed. Unless there is a rare fault that happens where it just disables the security and allows the car to start regardless if the resistance on the key pellet is correct. I only ask this as I bought 2 keys off ebay, seller says not to go off Ohm readings to figure out the key number, but that is what I did anyway, since the multimeter reading perfectly matched the design resistance of a particular numbered key. But if the system is faulty, or bypassed then reguardless of what key number I ordered, they should all work.
  11. While trying to make my oil pressure gauge in my Digi UB3 I swapped the sensor from the '91 CSC that I got the cluster from into the '92 CSC that digi is swapped into. The car will crank but not start now, even after I swapped the old sensor back in. Did I blow a fusible link or something. Which one should I use with the Digiital UB3 and is there anything else need to do so that oil pressure gauge will work? The started and ran just fine last night. BTW both cars are 3.1's. Thanks, Steve.
  12. Hi Guys, Last year I swapped a digital UB3 into my '92 3.1l CSC with the help of RobertlSaar and others on this forum and it works great! Now I need to wire the oil pressure sensor for the 3 wire plug. Can someone let me know where to run the 3rd wire so that it will work correctly on the cluster. Thanks in advance, Steve.
  13. Well after figuring out that my 98' Monte has a "change oil soon" light system, but never seen it working I pulled apart the dash cluster to see if the bulb was blown, found out GM never installed the bulb for it, or for the security light, and there was a couple other holes they could have friggin' used for a cruise control light, but go figure it didn't even have the anything on the faceplate for those holes. Excuse my rant, first GM product and things are already irritating the crap out of me. Well after swapping the volt light bulb over to the "chg oil soon" light to see if it would work, and finding out it fully worked and was able to reset the oil change system. Put it all back together, drove it around the block to make sure everything worked, and the speedo is slow to get up to the proper speed, the needle acts like it's catching on something and jumps until it gets to the proper speed, same thing for deceleration. Will be sitting at a dead stop and it will still read 10-20MPH until it catches up. What's wrong here? Tried playing around with the needle while the plexiglass was off to see if I could get it to smooth out, but no amount of fiddling with it made any difference. I really don't want to hear the words. "Replace the cluster" EDIT: Ignore the dumbass lol aparently when taking the cluster out, it fell forward and pushed the need far enough in for the base to drag on the faceplate. Went out to get some dinner, and at a stoplight I grabbed the base of the needle gently and pulled it ever so slightly away from the faceplate and it is working fine again. I still wonder why there was never any bulb installed for the Security and Oil Change lights though. Must have been built on a friday. lol
  14. Hey guys My friends '02 Grandprix gt has been having issues and she finally got time for me to look at it on my way home with it I noticed the odometer and the trip were not turning, all the other gauges seemed to me fine. So is that a fuse or something with the cluster itself?
  15. curious if 04+ gp needles will work in my 9c3 lumina digi cluster. i have a couple sets of the needles. i had tried 07 monte needles in my old cluster and they were too light
  16. Hey, all. I plugged a brand new air compressor into my cig lighter, then later went to drive my Z34 &: my high beam & traffic signal indicators are stuck on unless in use, my instrument cluster backlights are failing, my HVAC control backlights do not dim, my phone stops charging when my headlights are turned on, my dome lights don't work, & my underhood light looks 1/5 as bright as usual. I'm sure this is a simple issue with insane side effects...but anybody have this problem? Thanks.
  17. I need help instrument cluster somewhat works the Speedometer doesn't work tac doesn't work the turbo gauge doesn't work. Also the HUD is just all lit up. Need help on how to fix.
  18. Can you replace the bulbs on the digital climate control? I have many out on mine..if so what bulb type? I did the cluster with white leds..changed it.to blue..not sure im crazy about it. Will probably order green led so.they all match in the long run...even though it looks neat since I only had like 2 bulbs working on the dash..lol Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  19. 1990lumi

    dash cluster

    Was there a difference in dash clusters in the 90-94 luminas besides the 2 main ones one being max speed 85 the other 125 with oil temp coolant temp and tach...i am wondering because i had the first dash max speed 85 and swapped to the second style and my speed reads about 5x to fast i replaced because the chip in the old board fried out maybe when it fried it cooked my speed sensor?
  20. Why do people run these goofy things? The a pillar is already a blind spot so lets jus make it worse . Plus u have to look away from the road jus to look at the goofy things. I building some pods into my dash bezel below my cluster. My car isnt a fast and furious reject
  21. Does anyone know where I can find stepper motors for the instrument cluster for my 90 Lumina? I did a lot of looking and made a call or two from what I was able to find on the web and have had no luck. The speedometer sticks and is erratic...driving me nuts..and I'm tired of timing myself between mile markers to be sure the speedo is even close to being correct. Any help is much appreciated! Thanks!!
  22. I can't say I've ever read about a problem like this, so I figured I'd post it up. The other day I took the car out for the first drive in months. About a mile down the road I heard a loud pop, as if someone threw a rock at the windshield very hard; it startled me. A few seconds later, smoke started pouring out of the HUD. Not like a puff of smoke like the turn signal indicator in the column, I mean it was coming out of the screen on top, out the tilt adjuster, out from around the cluster, everywhere. It lasted a good 30 seconds, I pulled over immediately and expected the car to be on fire. Eventually it stopped and I drove it home and disconnected the battery. i pulled the thing apart and expected to see an obvious char mark where a wire grounded out or something, but no such thing. I don't remember what the insides usually look like color wise, but here's a couple pics. I think that black on the cover was always there? It didn't rub off on my hands. in a related story, I need a new HUD
  23. First, some of these questions may be answered here or elsewhere on the interwebz. I know this, and i am currently searching for answers to alot of these things already. I am just trying to expedite the process (or be lazy, however you want to call it is fine with me, lol). If its already posted up in here on another thread, and your going to tell me to f*** off, please at least include a link to the place where the answer is already covered along with your comment telling me to f*** off. It would be much appreciated. I have been absent from this forum for a few years, and there is alot of data to sort through. Now. On to brass tack's. Had two great deals fall into my lap. Have an 01 Century with a blown up 3100, while searching for a suitable replacement engine i stumbled onto a rolled over 98 Regal GS with a properly modified Supercharged 3800. I'm planning on swapping the powertrain of the Regal into the Century. Mechanically this is a no-brainer for me. however i am curious what i should expect as far as electronics go. engine bay: Will the wiring harness's/ECM's be plug and play? Dash/Gauges: The gauge cluster of the Regal was rebuilt (no dead displays! ) Will i have to reprogram anything when i put it in the Century? was there a different wiring harness used in the century that wouldnt allow certain gauges/displays of the Regal's guage to function...? Is the data depicting mileage stored within the gauge or is it stored in the BCM? Transmission: not swap or electronics related, but did these transmissions come from the factory with a limited slip diff? does anyone know the final drive ratio, as well as if there are any alternative ratios available..? also, is there a good no B.S. site showing all the factory specs of these cars (track performance) engine's (depicting internal differences between the N/A 3800 vs S/C 3800, like whether or not the S/C 3800 has forged pistons/crank/rods, etc) Better yet, is there a good site showing in detail the evolution of the Series 1 / Series 2 / Series 3.8L's? Thanks in advance for any help & input.
  24. First, some of these questions may be answered here or elsewhere on the interwebz. I know this, and i am currently searching for answers to alot of these things already. I am just trying to expedite the process (or be lazy, however you want to call it is fine with me, lol). If its already posted up in here on another thread, and your going to tell me to f*** off, please at least include a link to the place where the answer is already covered along with your comment telling me to f*** off. It would be much appreciated. I have been absent from this forum for a few years, and there is alot of data to sort through. Now. On to brass tack's. Had two great deals fall into my lap. Have an 01 Century with a blown up 3100, while searching for a suitable replacement engine i stumbled onto a rolled over 98 Regal GS with a properly modified Supercharged 3800. I'm planning on swapping the powertrain of the Regal into the Century. Mechanically this is a no-brainer for me. however i am curious what i should expect as far as electronics go. engine bay: Will the wiring harness's/ECM's be plug and play? Dash/Gauges: The gauge cluster of the Regal was rebuilt (no dead displays! ) Will i have to reprogram anything when i put it in the Century? was there a different wiring harness used in the century that wouldnt allow certain gauges/displays of the Regal's guage to function...? Is the data depicting mileage stored within the gauge or is it stored in the BCM? Transmission: not swap or electronics related, but did these transmissions come from the factory with a limited slip diff? does anyone know the final drive ratio, as well as if there are any alternative ratios available..? also, is there a good no B.S. site showing all the factory specs of these cars (track performance) engine's (depicting internal differences between the N/A 3800 vs S/C 3800, like whether or not the S/C 3800 has forged pistons/crank/rods, etc) Better yet, is there a good site showing in detail the evolution of the Series 1 / Series 2 / Series 3.8L's? Thanks in advance for any help & input.
  25. I posted about a month and a half ago about an instrument cluster problem in my Regal Custom. The odometer wasn't working and the car couldn't pass inspection because of it. I wound up working out an arrangement with a member here for another cluster. Before mailing it over to me he assured everything lit up when he hooked it up to a jump box. When I finally got the part I went ahead and hooked it up. Since then there have been times when the odometer doesn't move it all, times where it seems like it's accurately accumulating miles, and times where the odometer will go up by 50 miles for every actual mile. Additionally, the gas gauge doesn't seem to be working properly, it's been stuck at full since I've been using it. Also the dashboard doesn't light up, the digital speedometer is illuminated, but my gas gauge and gear shift indicator aren't. I got temporary tags on my car so I can drive it in the meantime, but in the next week/week and a half I'm going to need to have this car inspected again. If I have to take it to a mechanic to look at, I will, but if this stuff has a potentially easy fix I'd be willing to give it a try. My dad is convinced it's a "ground" problem. He's been running point on this car since he gave it to me, but I've realized I can't keep relying on him to get work done on this car. Also, probably unrelated to the above stuff, can't adjust my mirrors remotely, windows work fine though. Any ideas on that? ----- One thing thats been a problem with this buick for years, apparently, is sometimes when accelerating the car "stutters" and I typically have to take my foot off the gas pedal and re-accelerate, in which case it's fine. It's not as high on the priority list as everything else, but if anyone is familiar with this problem I'd appreciate any input.
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