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C-clamps work too, then just use a screwdriver to get the "+" to line up with the pad, oh and try not to do it in the rain. hehheh, working without a garage sucks

 

:werd: ...because when you use a C-clamp, when you tighten it...it turns the piston clockwise. works perfect. thats all i ever used.

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What are you guys talking about? You just turn both of them clockwise...

 

93GTP

I know this is hard to believe but I did have to turn the other way to put back the drivers side piston in. When I took apart the caliper ( I threw it out) there was a reverse thread on the actual screw. The passengers side was normal.

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I dont know if these are the same as 91 Regal ?

 

Anyhow I just needed new hoses for both rear calipers also had a warp and put new pads. First night I just did a good look over and put new line (hose) on driverside. I backed off the brake cable adjuster and removed the cable from caliper arm. Then I unbolted the caliper e brake arm and pryed the pistons back with a BF screw driver between the pads and rotor just like I've done all disc brakes for the last 25 years. Then I removed the caliper, replaced the line, put new pads, & rotor. put back together and bleed the brakes. Upon inspection of the caliper and other side I decided to go with new calipers because the dust boot did not look good. Also older calipers sometimes hang up when pushed back where they have not been in a year or so and will not release well and could warp a new rotor. Same with the old slider pins, my pads were wore nearly out on the piston side and nearly new on the slider side. This is what caused the warp, uneven pressure and possible not full release.

 

I also recommend new calipers because of these problems not because they are a problem to deal with. If you are going after new calipers, hoses are due also because they will crack and then wont pass inspection, now you need to do that and bleed brakes AGAIN.

 

If you do the pry against rotor and old pads after unbolting the ebrake arm. go carefully and evenly,centered over the piston or pistons, maybe two BF screwdrivers, make sure you go all the way. Then put arm back on before unbolting caliper. The shaft in there or seal can come away letting fluid out. Dont remember what it was but it happend to me, didnt matter because I was bleeding anyhow.

 

Another preventive maintence at this same time is to get a turkey baister and remove the old fluid out of reservoir before pushing pistons back. Fill back up some but not to the top. Do the job then top off to proper level.

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Not to hijack but are 94' brakes the same procedure, I gotta do mine I was told by my mechanic. The brakes seem fine but the pedal goes halfway to the floor then I get regualar braking. The booster hose is fine and so are the front brakes. No pulsation or anything. He said something about the E-brake not working correctly and this had somethin to do with it, I don't know but the E-brake seems to work fine to me. I was also told by 2 other mechanics including the pontiac dealer that they couldn't find any reason for the pedal to be like that and that the master cylinder is fine. It was funny too I suggested bleeding the brakes and the pontiac dealer said that rarely needs to happen with these type of systems it's hard for air to get in. I think hes full of shit.

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Guest TurboSedan

i bought used rear '94+ rear calipers from a salvage yard and yes the procedure is the same as pre-'94 rear brakes i believe. really the only difference is a slightly bigger rotor & a redesigned caliper. i had to turn the piston back in with a long nose pliers (lack of tools) clockwise so i could put new pads in. the bleeding procedure should be the same also. new '94+ 11" rotors were $22 (cheapos) and a set of rear pads were only $20-something. i still don't have the e-brake working but should soon. i'm going to use '94+ cables like Chris A but some here have gotten the pre-'94 cables to work like RedZMonte. i don't think the braking performance was improved over the earlier brakes really but at least the calipers aren't prone to seizure like the pre-'94 rear brakes are. they suck.

 

oh yeah if you have to remove the e-brake - stick a small band clamp on the end of the cable to compress the tangs and it'll pop right out. good luck.

joshua

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Guest TurboSedan

other things to improve brakes using factory parts:

 

- use '95+ strut/knucles so you can fit bigger rotors into the front (needed because the caliper needs to mount farther out due to bigger rotors). the calipers & pads can be reused. i already have the strut/knucles but i need to have the lower ball-joints replaced first.

 

- use the bigger '96+ brake booster (i can't since my clutch master cylinder is in the way). yup - a 5-speed is much more important that better brakes :wink:

joshua

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another question

would it be a good idea to only change out rotors? there is still a ton of pad left, as they are only a year old. would reusing the old pads with a new rotor mess up the new rotor or anything, or would just getting new pads be a better idea? the rotors arn't grooved or anything like that, so i think there is a bad spot or something in the rotors. if they arn't grooved, then neither would the pads be, right? they were cheap rotors to start with.

 

just looking for a way to save money as christmas is coming up, but i think changing both pads and rotors is the better idea, and i probably will do that

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did the brakes saturday

 

the pistons went in with the little box tool. damn i didn't know you had to push that hard on it to get them in. the caliper sliders were partially corroded so i cleaned them up and put on new brushings.

 

amazing how long it took compared to the front

 

no more shake!

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