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Found 407 results

  1. Ok I have a 99 Lumina 9C3 and it's brake time. What other W body rotors will swap right onto my car? Reason why I'm asking is it will allow me to find out if I can take advantage of another cars rotor upgrade package. Car has the 9c3 brake package (4wheel disc).
  2. My '95 GP SE has a reoccurring problem every couple of years or so. About 2 years ago I was having problems getting it started and then one day the whole electrical system just spazed out on me. While I was driving no less. Luckily I was coming to a stop at the time. I took it to a garage and he told me there was rust built up in the underside of the fuse boxes under the hood. After I got it back, it started every time, until now. This morning I tried to start it and it started doing the same old thing, 'click', nothing. So, has anyone else experienced this? I'm in Michigan where the weather goes from cold to rainy to sunshine, in one day. What is the best way to not only fix this, but hopefully prevent this from happening again in 2 or so years? I pretty mechanically inclined and have done several repairs/maintenance to my beast (rotors, brakes, radiator,alternator.). But this is electrical and I'll admit, I'm somewhat intimidated. At the same time, I'm eager to take non new challenges and learn something new. TIA.
  3. Finally found a good '96 MC donor in the junkyard, and I completed the spindle/brake upgrade I've been contemplating for the last year and a half on my '92 GTP over the weekend. Pain in the ass, but a noticeable improvement going from 10.5" to 11.25". Now that the groundwork is laid, what's the story on the Camaro caliper upgrade? Just need the caliper and bracket from a '99, and redrill & tap the bracket for W bolts, and use 13" rotors?
  4. I need to put new rotors on my 94 Cutlass Supreme. The bolts holding the brake caliper bracket on take some kind of large star shaped socket it looks like. Can someone tell me exactly what size/type it is? Thanks, Vince
  5. I've been going through search for an hour, but didn't find what I was looking for. On a 91 Regal, I've had the rear calipers off to check them out. The handbrake lever on the right side was stiff and reluctant to return, and some bolts were very tight, but everything's fine now after much cleaning and grunting .. What I need to know is the order of what to do after getting the pistons screwed all the way down, pads put back in and the calipers remounted on the car. Do I firstly have to press the main brake pedal to move the pistons out so the pads touch the rotor, or should I operate the parking brake mechanism first to achieve this? Or do I ratchet the parking brake actuating levers by hand until the pads touch the rotors? I've seen some posts which mention having to use the parking brake regularly to maintain the correct adjustment of the pistons, so I suspect it should be parking brake first to set the pads up up against the rotors. I got the parking brake cables ready for the final adjustment after everything else has been done. Cheers!
  6. I am ordering rotors and pads for my son's 95 Cutlass Supreme, 4 door with the 3.1L plant. I see both 267mm and 286mm diameter rotors listed on the parts sites. How do I tell which ones I have or what is the purpose for the bigger rotors? I want to be sure I order the right ones.
  7. Found the kit a while back and now i cant find it. Was wondering what rotors were used in the kit. Thanks.
  8. New to this forum and hoping someone can answer this for me. I just picked up a 95 Cutlass Supreme with 94k. Great car after fixing the little things. Then I came across a complete set of slightly used brakes for a w body. All rotors, calipers and pads, front and back. Was told it would bolt right on. Being a trusting dumba$$, I believed him. When I got home I cross referenced cars and parts don't match. I'm still learning the difference between these cars but could someone let me know if these parts can be used on my car? And of course the seller is not answering back to get my money back. Thanks for any replies.
  9. What is the stock rotor size of a 1995 Grand Prix SE? Im looking to get new rotors, along with new brake pads, to replace the old parts. I was thinking of getting performance brakes with slotted or drilled rotors. I was wondering if the new rotors have to be the same size of the old ones??? I WILL be using the stock calipers since i painted them pretty nice haha. Any help is appreciated!
  10. So, for the past couple months my front brake has been making a chirping noise while driving. It goes away when I apply the brakes, but comes back as soon as they are released. My first thought was the little metal clip on the back of the pad, since I had one break before and it did the same thing. Well, they both look fine. In fact, everything looks alright. Only thing, the top edge of each pad, about 1 millimeter thick isn't wearing, so it sticks out. That's the only thing I can see. I've tried sanding the pads down, but the noise continues. It looks like the top lip is coming back again, like it's still not wearing . Not sure if that is anything or not though. Rotors look smooth, and both pads and rotors have about 15k on them. Any ideas? Now that it's nice out it's driving me crazy when I have the Windows down. The only other thing my dad thought is maybe if we have the rotors turned, but I don't know... Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2
  11. So my front inner pads have both worn at nearly 100% the rate of the outer front pads? I noticed my car was starting to stutter stop occasionally so I pulled everything off for a look and the inside of the front rotors are pretty nasty, the slotted wear design is 75% gone indicating their done for. The outside of the rotors and outer pads are fine lots of life left. What could cause this?
  12. Hey Iv'e browsed around here for a long time, but just actually joined for much needed help. My rear pads are completely gone and have damagd my rotors pretty bad. I went to replace the pads and rotor but noticed the rear calipers have the e-brake attached to it. How do i remove the caliper with the e-brake in the rear? I think i can remove the cable but the actually ebrake unit itself in the the way of the caliper bolts. any help is appreciated, thanks!
  13. i want to upgrade my 92 cutlass convertible so it stops better. braking seems hard when needing to quickly stop almost like i am standing on them. the car does have new front brakes and rotors. my car does not have abs which is fine just want better braking. can i use them off a newer cutlass? or is the another route i should go? thanks rich
  14. Hey guys! I just picked up a 1990 Lumina, Base model with the 3.1 in it. It needed some brake work when I got it. So I replaced both rear calibers with re-manufactured ones from O'reillys with new rotors, and pads installed also. I took a peak at the front calipers and they seem fine, no signs of leaks. The pads on the front also had plenty of meat left on them! Once I got everything buttoned up and installed, I started the bleeding process. Everything was working properly fluid was coming out of all calipers around the car with no air bubbles noticeable. Put the tires on, hoped into the car checked the brake petal nice and firm! So I fired it up to get it out of the garage and the brake petal was spongy. Took it for a spin the petal stayed the same, spongy and not responsive. Then I tried a test, I shut the car off pumped the brakes up until the petal was nice and hard. I kept pressure on the petal with my foot started the engine and the petal fell close to the floor(About halfway down). I also tried pumping the brakes when the car was running that didn't help ether, they were still spongy. Could this be a sign of a bad master cylinder or brake booster? If you guys could help me I would really appreciate it! Thank you.
  15. After searching the front brake up grade for my '92 CS I'm confused. I found threads that say all that is needed is the rotors, calipers, and front strut assembly from a '96+ CS and others that it can't be done because of a-arm issues.....Which is true?
  16. Ok so I have a 94 oldsmobile cutlass supreme 3100 series with 182,000. I have done alot of work to this car as far as ball joints, tire rods, 4 struts/shocks, 4 new calipers/rotors/pads, newtires, plugs/wires waterpump, alternator, battery, starter, fuelpump/sending unit, gas tank, regular oil changes and coolant flushes throughou the 6 years ive owned it. I recently just rewired the Engine Computer and the car has ran fine for about a month or so. Noticed the waterpump was spraying fluid or of it so I replaced that, same day the alternator went had it tested it was bad replaced it with a new one in a parking lot. Start the car up its running great then it starts bogging out and dies. starts right back up runs fine for about 3 minutes then bogs out and dies. so i thought it was the fuel pump/sending unit as I replaced the fuel pump before but not the sending unit. So i bought new fuelpump and sending unit put that and a new fuel filter on start the car up runs good for about 2-3 minutes and dies. give it gas bogs a little revs up idles back out then dies. it doesn't always act this way. it always starts right up and runs good for a min or so then bogs and dies or just bogs out until u give it gas then it dies. i am not a car expert but i do have some experience. i have no idea what the probelm is no check engine light on please help!!
  17. Hello all! I had a quick question if anyone has the time. I have no idea what size the torx bolts I need to remove the holding bracket for the front rotors on my 93 lumina base are. I live about 1 1/2 hours from the nearest store that would stock the drivers I would need to remove it so I have decided to just order it online. I am assuming it is a T55 but I wanted to be sure before I ordered it. Thank you very much for any help
  18. So my 90 international, I forgot just how terrifying and garbage the stock brakes are. What are the best possible brakes that bolt up to these cars? I have front calipers, rotors and pads from my 01 GTP, will they bolt on and work better? Thank you
  19. Alright guys, I have a problem. Everytime I hit the brakes, my rear brakes completely lock up. But if I let off, they unlock. Friday night, I was going about 45 and went to slow down for a sharp curve in the road. My brakes locked up, back end of my car slid around and made me lose control. Hit two ditches. A culvert. Ripped out two mailboxes cemented into the ground 5 feet. And ripped a gas meter completely out the ground. I've replaced the lines. Pads. Calipers. Rotors. I don't know what could cause the problem. What do you guys think? Need to get this fixed asap as this is my only vehicle. Sadly sold my truck 3 days ago...
  20. Officially i hate doing first gen w-body brakes. Ever time ive done them i have ran into issues. Todays issues. I removed and installed new brakes on passenger side rear ( discovered a bad hub, will fix later ) everything works fine on this side. I removed and installed new brakes on drivers side rear... Slide pin/pivot point has seized and literally takes a hammer to move up and down. I was able to change rotors via removing the caliper with bracket. Now my drivers side rear is literally stuck from the slidepin not moving. Well the fix is for another day, i shall post results. I dont know really what todo to get it out, ill figure it out im sure. Sledge hammer or something haha
  21. I'm finally going to have some money and the first thing I'm going to do is get rid of my squeaking brakes. Since I'm going to replace rotors and everything I want to just do it right this time. I want to go the biggest/best I can but still be able to use stock wheels for the winter. It looks like the 12" 4G f-body brake setup is the right choice. Has anyone on here done this? I'm pretty sure I'll need the following: brackets, calipers and bolts from donor car, f-body pads and rotors (going with EBC 3GD and Red Stuff), SS lines and a tap to use the f-body bolts. Any input on whether that's right or other opinions will be appreciated. I am going to do the rears later. My next priority will be redoing the struts/mounts/springs as the setup I have now is noisy garbage. I'm going to start to mess w/ making coilovers with the old stuff after it's off, so I'll just go with GR2's, new mounts and different springs for now...going to look for some Intrax springs, but I doubt I'll find any. I like the ride height it's at right now, but these springs are junk and I had to cut the rear ones to level it out
  22. Hey everyone - I recently purchased a 91 GTP (pics to come shortly) that is in relatively great condition. Today was the first day I could really drive it and this is what I noticed. When applying the brakes lightly, they begin to squeal. I had the brakes checked and the pads and rotors are still in great shape. The next thing that I noticed was after I released the brakes and was accelerating, there was some sort of squealing coming from the right front wheel then goes away. It only happens after I brake then start to move again. My questions are: Anything I can do about the squealing brakes? What can be causing the squealing after I release the brakes and begin to drive again? Any input would be appreciated! Thanks!
  23. Hey everybody, got a head scratcher. It was time to replace the front brakes (judging by the shudder). I decided to go all the way, and got new calipers, rotors, pads, and soft lines from Napa. Everything seemed to go about as smoothly as I expect when working on the car, and the biggest PITA was when I had to grind a bit of metal from the bottom of the knuckle so that the bottom caliper bolt would line up with the bracket hole. Cleaning the dirt and rust up took the most time to do, but when installing the new parts everything fit, didn't (appear to) leak and got torqued correctly. I bled each caliper until I saw clean solid fluid, and the damn pedal was squishy throughout and after the whole procedure. (By squishy I mean it went all the way down to the floor with slight resistance) At this point I have no brake pressure, which I don't understand, since fluid was pushed from each caliper, so there is fluid getting to the calipers. I checked the fluid level before and after bleeding each caliper, so I know there was never a lack of brake fluid throughout the bleeding procedure. I'm about to tear it all apart again and go over everything I installed. I'm just wondering if this sounds familiar to anyone. p.s. 1991 Lumina Euro non-ABS. p.s.s. I looked (not very hard) over the master cylinder and booster vacuum line and both looked fine i.e. no visible leaks, no loose lines. Will confirm that while going over everything.
  24. Hey guys I'm looking at methanol injection setups for the Regal. I've decided things like cam, a real intercooler, or headers are going to have to wait until the engine comes out again. I recently decided against the 1.9 rockers as well. Therefore, I'm looking for something fairly easy to install and will all but guarantee I can safely run the 3.4" pulley with my current mods and eliminate any KR. I've looked at kits from Devil's Own and Snow Performance. But I'm unclear on where the nozzle gets installed on the L67. Before or after the M90? If before, will it hurt the rotors having a fine mist going through them or would it actually be beneficial? Is there a way to install the nozzles below the S/C, possibly right into the LIM?
  25. Well, instead of posting what I have been doing to my Cutlass on different forum posts. I decided to do like many other people on this forum have done and put it all together in one post to keep you all updated on my progress. Installed 4 new calipers and painted them red and painted the caliper bracket gloss black. Also upgraded my rotors to cross drilled rotors. Upgraded my stock speakers to these Rockford Fosgate Punch series speakers in the dash and the rear deck. I even installed a set in the front doors. A lot of cutting but only took me a weekend to cut the door panels and run the wires for the speakers. Sounds WAY better than it did.
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