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  1. Ok any of you that have owned a 60 degree V6 such as the 3100 or 3400 will be familiar with this tube, it runs from the rear valve cover to the intake tube just in front of the throttle body. If you are like me you have probably attempted Teflon tape and or RTV to keep the valve cover end in with not much luck. I have searched for a rubber grommet without success and for years it has just rested in place. Well at the beginning of the year I was working on a GAGT with a 3400 and came up with a nice solid airtight fix. This is what is getting replaced, don't throw it out just yet, you will need part of it. You will need that tube ^ 2. Permatex Ultra black RTV 3. 1 FT of PVC hose 19/32, this will be cut to fit approximately. 4. 1x FORD PVC elbow AutoZone P/N 47032 Tools include a hack saw or serrated cutting tool for cutting the factory tube without bending or breaking it, a file or sandpaper for removing a lip on the PVC elbow and something to cut the 19/32 hose, it also helps to have the ICM/coil pack assembly removed. First get your engine ready for the mod/repair by removing the ICM assembly(I will assume you the reader can do this in your sleep, if not consult your repair manual you NOOB!){this is a joke we all started somewhere} Next locate your purchased FORD elbow and proceed to remove this ONE lip. The one on the side pointing UP in the pic, the other end can be worked into the 19/32 hose for an airtight bond without anything. I used a file and enjoyed a cold beer while doing so. Also note the flat "washer" area of the elbow where my thumb is, this is where you put the RTV and fix it to the rear valve cover. Now once the elbow is filed and the other end in the hose find the original tube and cut off the elbow that fits into the air intake tube. You can make the cut exactly at the elbow. That part fits right into the 19/32 hose. Place your newly created assembly into the rear valve cover and eyeball where you need to make your cut at the intake tube, then RTV the Ford elbow to the rear vale cover and insert the other end into the intake tube then let the RTV cure for about an hour. Pretty self explanatory but feel free to ask any questions should they arise. Update after relocating images! After several months everything holds up quite nice. Ive removed the air intake tube several times since this and the rear valve cover end stay nice and secure.
  2. So a few days ago my starter went out at a gas station, didn't engage the flywheel just whined. Got it home, replaced the starter the next day, and it cranked right up but has a crazy loud noise/squeal/grinding noise. I don't know if this has anything to do with the noise, but I had to unbolt the AC compressor to get at the starter. It sounded like a super loud belt noise at first so I thought it was the AC pully was misaligned but after getting under the car and listening through a screw driver I'm convinced its a sound from the flywheel and the starter. I never heard of shimming a starter before today and I'm wondering if that has to do with it? Like the starter is just so close that the bendix drive shaft is hitting the flywheel? I looked and the clearance seemed a little tight but i'm not sure because this is the first time i've had a problem with replacing a starter and always just bolted it on and was done. Also I have examined the flywheel teeth before replacing the starter and they are all in good condition, and the starter is a new Duralast Gold... Anyways,,, here is the noise....
  3. My dad made the comment that i should grab a second car so im not feeling rushed when wrenching on the monte. I agreed. Been poking around and actually found two nice cars i actually like. 2001 regal gs Pros-clean as hell, most parts interchange with my monte, ive actually wanted a regal for a while, will make a good candidate for a regal 2-door conversion idea i had(hehehe) Cons-they have a price a lil high on it, previous body repair. 2008 impala ss Pros-5.3 , good color scheme(red/black), eeven cleaner than hell, decent price, would b an eventual ls4 donor for monte after car is beat up and the trans dies Cons-little interchange with monte, before mentioned trans weakness, more expensive parts Kinda leaning towards regal even tho the impala is a better deal
  4. Hello Vert owners. Can anyone tell me how and where to purchase the best repair manual? Also, my left side convertible top latch mechanism is stripped. Does aanyone have any ideas on how I could repair it? Thanks!
  5. Forgot that I had this in my bookmarks Auto - Online Repair Info ID: rrcc PW: rebsco
  6. So a whole pile of work later, the paperweight is running and back on the road. I've got two issues with it though. First is the vents; with A/C on, i'm getting air from both the floor and the dash vents. When I'm on the throttle at all, the airflow shifts more towards the floor, and anything like heavy throttle pushes it all the way to the floor. From what I know of the system, that means a vacuum leak, so where should I start looking for it? Second issue is a low idle in drive. According to the tach, i'm right at 500 when idling, and the car has a bit of a vibration along with a voltage drop from the alternator. I'm thinking that the two are connected, though I would have expected a vacuum leak to give a high idle. If it helps, the last repair done was an ECM replacement. Thoughts, advice appreciated! Edit: Cruise control isn't right either. It tries, but can't keep the car up to speed. It's doing something though, because ifI turn it off, the car does suddenly slow down a lot quicker. It's almost like i have some vacuum but not much. Now I'm wondering if maybe I have one of the vacuum lines in the wrong port?
  7. I have a 1992 Cutlass Supreme S with the base model digital instrument cluster without the tachometer. It is flickering on and off, and some times just stays off and some times it works fine. It's going to need repair or replaced since these clusters are known to have problems. Can anybody recommend a repair facility that is able to repair the cluster? I will be able to remove the cluster myself and install it. When I bought the Cutlass , the owner told me that the cluster needed repair, and that he had bought a cluster, and tried to fix it, but it did not work. He gave me the spare cluster when I purchased the car. I just took a good look at it, and I know why it did not work. It is the international version cluster with tachometer made in Japan by Denso. I guess I can try to sell the international cluster to somebody that needs one because I don't want to go through all the hassle of rewiring and adapters.
  8. Hi, I am helping a friend fix her 1991 Cutlass Supreme. The supply and return fuel lines that go from the fuel tank to the filter and to the return line need to be replaced. The GM part numbers for these lines are 10062888 and 10062887. These parts are discontinued from GM. I am sure someone else has replaced these lines. How did you approach it? Dorman does have a repair line (dorman part #55180) but that will only help with the supply side. The return side has a female fitting. The part for later years is available, and have a similar shape, but they have different connectors. The junkyard parts available are rusted as badly as the parts on this car. Thanks for any help you can offer.
  9. in 1992 my cutlass was repainted under warranty. Well the a**holes that did the work didnt bother to remove the trim around the doors and when they painted the paint got stuck to the rubber trim. as the rubber aged, dried and contracted over the years, it pulled the paint off around the doors until i couldnt take it anymore. I got in touch with automotive touch up and ordered primer, paint and clear then I went to town. I spent 4 days on it, mainly waiting for paint to dry. It looks pretty darn good for $40 worth of materials but if I had taken it to a body shop I would be let down by this. I am not a painter lol. The car had been missing paint in some areas for many years, the issue Starting the tear down and old paint removal, i used a razor blade and 600 grit sand paper covered everything, and the paint dust from over spray did collect everywhere I went over board, did about 5-6 coats of primer and sanded it with 600 girt as per the instructions send with the paint Then came several light then medium coats of color, I sanded around the 4th coat with 600 grit again, then added two more coats Then I started on the clear coats and man I thought I was messing up bad with this. Just remember resist the temptation and only sand the last coat of clear This is what you get, then get on it with 2000 grit sand paper as per the instructions and rubbing compound this is were I stopped with the sand paper after some work it seemed to match the car pretty good shinny Then It was time to put it back together, I found a car in the yard 80 miles away that had better trim than my car so I drove out got it and now it was time to install
  10. Hey everyone, I'm Trey and I came across this site via Google, so I joined. I currently just picked up a 1992 Cut lass Supreme Convertible (or vert as I've learned). This car drives excellent to be 23 years old, no rust on the body, with only minor interior repair (buttons for Windows, some leather repair, etc)...I'm convinced that because there were so few produced that this car will become a collectible, considering that the Cutlass was a great seller for Oldsmobile, and the fact that it is a convertible as well...I might be wrong though, just have to wait and see...right now I'm looking for replacement parts to get her restored, but have learned that they are hard to find...but that won't deter me from getting her right. Red vert, with a black top that does work...anyhow...I'm glad to be a part of the W-body community...
  11. Hi. Today I started bleeding the brakes with my brother-in-law, after installing these days a new precharged accumulator. Started like its described in the haynes repair manual at the right front brake - all good. Then started bleeding on the right front brake. ( regularly checked the fluid level) But after approximately 15 minutes of bleeding, there is still air in the hose ? What could that be !? Currently Im pretty frusted with the brake problem.
  12. Forgive me for the car being dirty in the pictures. I'll take care of that once it warms up around here. I've been pondering about repainting my Buick for some time now. The car was brought down from Arizona to Florida at the turn of the century. I remember first seeing her and how she shined bright white in the sun. Fast forward to the end of my Freshman year of highschool and the horror begins. It started on the roof of the car. A little patch of surface rust and some peeling paint. That would eventually take over the entire roof. The hood and trunk started to peel after the roof. The problem areas are on the top of the car but now there are issues starting on the tops of the rear quarters with peeling paint. I find this car intimidating to paint with the ammount of trim there is to remove and tape off. I'm also worried about having to pull the fixed glass and cleaning up any channels under them to kill any speck of rust. Knowing where I stand all the exterior molding will have to come off. If I had the tools and place to do it I'd give this car a full unibody strip and restoration, but right now that isn't feasable. I need an alternative to keep this car going untill I can get a place to do that. My questions are: >How to I remove the trim off the car? >What is the best kind of paint I should use for my situation? (If it be just a good primer, rattle can white, or full on pro paint job.) >Is removing fixed glass as intimidating as I think it is? >Do they even sell weather strip kits and the such for my car? As the days go on these rust issues haunt me. I wanna be able to clear this up till I can be able to do that restoration that I wanna do.
  13. 1) What is my best bet to avoid buying the specific tool I read you need to install these I read some spark plug tool fits, is it a for sure fit? I just can't get down there enough to see anymore then the connector, so much oil. Thanks for any tips there! 2) Temp Fix: Can't I just put a 1/4th NPTF pipe socket with some teflon tape properly wrapped and then obtain tool + oil pressure switch? (I think I even have some in my tool box ~_~ otherwise a hardware store is walking distance, auto store is not. I know I know terrible to bypass the oil pressure switch for a few days however I've been ill and using taxi cab has been expensive- I could save the cost of the tool if I do this hack job repair as a temp
  14. OK all, I have a 97' Olds Cutlass Supreme SL with the 3.1L V6. The engine is leaking oil, due to needing the lower intake manifold seals replaced. I'm intending to do the repair, but one thing has me hesitant and/or confused about doing the job. After removing the rockers and push rods to replace the LIM seal, am I required to "set the valves" or can I simply bolt the rockers back on to a specified torque setting? I've read both. If anyone has an answer, or a place to get the details, I appreciate the feedback. Thanks in advance!
  15. Hello folks and thanks for this site. I don't think I've owned a w- body. I've owned several LeSabre a Bonneville and Parkavenue . The reason I'm here is I've been adopted by my neighbors kids as their grandfather and the oldest owns a 1997 Lumina he inherited from his grandmother. It began knocking and loosing power a few weeks ago. Well what's a grandfather to do, I thought this would be a great project. We could have some fun and he could learn how an engine works. We did but we have a problem the camshaft broke and there is to much damage to be able to repair this engine. So I'm needing to know what engines will replace the 3.1 and how difficult would it be to bolt in a 3.8. We haven't been able to find a low mileage 3.1 but I've found a 3.8 with 50000 miles on it out of a Lesabre. I've been told the 3.4 will bold right in without changing the wiring harness. Any information will be appreciated.
  16. It's a straightforward job now that all the elements have been split. The front (as it sits on the car) of this bar will be covered with a single piece of sheet steel, as per the original. One of the photos attached shows a bit of the old panel, with factory-cut holes. I can't decide whether to add these holes to the replacement panel, to keep the car looking original, or to dispense with the holes. The former route would enable water to get in and around but make it possible for an annual refreshment of rustproofing treatment. The latter route of a closed panel would keep water out but not allow future access. I'd be grateful for comments and opinions on this dilemma, before I get going on it on Tuesday. Either way, it's going to be in a much better state than it is now . Cheers! Note, for anyone who might do this job: The mounting brackets with the captive bolts were spot welded to the original large piece of steel I am replacing, and the large panel then spot welded to the reinforcement bar. There are no direct welds between the mounting brackets and the profiled rear section of the reinforcement bar, and this made it easy to strip the whole thing down.
  17. Hello all: My father bought a new Lumina LS in 1995. Has babied that car. It is the 3.4 DOHC. All that power and I don't think the car has ever been driven above 80! He gave it to my son this year. 101K miles, interior like new. Everything major had been changed or replaced on the car except the water pump. Which froze up a couple of weeks ago. I changed that no problem and then discovered a coolant leak in the intake gasket. Now I am fixing to start on that. I would assume that other DOHC owners have replaced the intake gasket. From the manual it looks straight forward enough. I am wondering are there any hidden gotchas or special tools I would need for the repair? BTW I own a 1994 "F body" firebird. 3.4 push rod. Rock solid at 230K miles. Does not leak a drop of anything! Too bad the same can't be said of the lumina.. Hope to hear from some of yall. Brian
  18. ok so, im not finding what i need, but i know this has prolly been an on-going topic on here. but ive been away from here for a while so i feel like a newb again. heres the situation, maybe someone can direct me to a thread or help me in general. i went to start my car earlier (2002 chevy impala with 127k miles on it) it stalled out for what ever reason, im not sure myself. it didnt feel like it fully started however, like it was barely running and i threw it in reverse being hasty and it died. well. then the ol ignition felt the need to stick in the acc spot so my power was stuck on and couldnt start the car. well after fighting with it i found it didnt fully go into park (sigh) but i got it all figured out and working, but now the car just wont start. the key fights me more than ever but its not even kicking the starter on (at least im not hearing anything coming from it when i had my girlfriend turn the key for me while i listened to what was going on) i know we have a recall on them, and i can get it swapped for a new one. but i kind of need to get it to where i can drive it there due to funds and how far away the dealership that can do the recall repair is. any advice anyone can give me? from the sounds of the things ive had going on with electronics, it sounds like it could possibly be the BCM. any thoughts on that as well? thanks in advance guys. any help is appreciated.
  19. After my earlier success with the passenger door handle. I really felt froggy and decided to tackle the engine and transmission mounts in my '95 GP SE. I got it done, it took me 2 days and a lot of praying and cussing (at the car), but I got it done. This is what the Engine mount looked like when I got in there. Here is a photo of some of what I pulled out of the pan the mount sits in. Here are a couple of photos of the new and old mounts side by side. Keep in mind this has been sitting in there for 19 years. Needless to say, after 2 days of working on this and several trips to Harbor Freight tools, I got them both in. It is SOOOOOO nice to not feel the dash vibrate when I'm driving. It feels like when I first got the car. Now I can hear all the other noises in the car I need to repair. After I got the trans mount out, I realized I didn't really need to replace it as it is a solid piece of rubber and not the crappy hydraulic on that was on the engine mount. Since I already was doing the other one, I decided to just go ahead and take care of the trans mount too.
  20. Engine Diagonal Brace: one of the two metal bars that are attached to the strut tower with one longer bolt (actually just outside it) and to the front of the engine compartment with two smaller bolts. These are the braces that must be removed to access the coolant overflow tank on one side and the washer fluid reservoir and battery on the other side. So I guess I removed and reinstalled the engine diagonal brace one two many times because one of the smaller bolts on the front of the engine compartment just keeps spinning and never gets snug. The threads on the bolt are fine, but most of the threads in the hole came out with the bolt. The damaged threads are M9x1.25. So what to do? (1)I have a tap and die set, but I've never done this sort of work before. Will I get good threads if I jump up to the next largest size (M10x1.25)? (2)Can I use a helicoil? I am hesitant because the bolt only threads through metal that is about 3/8" thick, but the bolt is at least an inch long. I thought helicoils need to bottom out in the hole. Thanks for any help.
  21. I have plowed through a couple of hours of searches but have yet to find the most basic answer to my question: can I repair my door handle on my 94 CS convert by getting in the access panel on the inside of the door edge? Must I take the door upholstery off, and disassemble the door to effect a repair on the handle? I have removed the access panel behind the door handle and removed all screws, but I can't see how to get the whole thing apart. Is there a sticky on door handle repair? I don't see one.
  22. i have a 90 lumina coupe base model and the rear trailing arm mounts are starting to rust away they are still solid but are getting bad is it worth fixing this (cutting the old mount out and making my own and welding it all up) or should i say goodbye to the old girl
  23. Hello everyone. Just figured I should join since I have 3 first gen w's and looking at a fourth next week. '94 GTP current commuter, '92 Z34 bought it because it has a good 284, and my old '91 GTP auto (dropped a valve at 7000 rpm, there was chunks of aluminum embeded in the air cleaner!) I might repair it but the rust is starting to come through above the body kit, we will see. I also have quite a few other vehicles. To many to list. My 2010 powerwagon is my baby, the 94 GTP helps offset the fuel economy a bit. Thanks for reading. Chad Jager
  24. Found this site while looking for some tech advice. It looks like somewhere I would like to visit frequently. I have a teal blue 93 Olds Cutlass S with the 3.1 V6. I have had it for about 3 years and love it. I never thought I would buy a FWD car, but having worked as a mechanic for a taxi cab company that ran lots of Chevy Luminas with the 3.1, and finding out how bullet-proof these engines are, I decided to give one a try. I had a buddy that was in the used car business and I told him to find me something in my price range. He came up with this one-owner 93 Olds with only about 120,000 miles on it, I jumped right on the deal. It has been an awesome car. The only repair was a water pump replacement. Hope to find some good tips here and maybe I can offer some. I worked as an auto paint and body tech for many years. Good day!
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