Starflare5 Posted December 14, 2012 Report Share Posted December 14, 2012 (edited) Never mind Edited December 27, 2012 by Starflare5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted December 14, 2012 Report Share Posted December 14, 2012 (edited) Risky, though, to try to continue driving it as it is...two reasons. Firstly, you say there is water intruding into the engine oil...so even though it's "burning off", you're creating corrosion-friendly conditions inside the engine. Secondly, the situation is NOT stable. The leak could (and possibly will) grow very suddenly, without warning, leaving you with a 600-pound paperweight, and a sharp localized pain around the area of your wallet. Best advice, either fix it, or park it NOW, before the situation becomes unrecoverable and expensive. Edited December 14, 2012 by Galaxie500XL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starflare5 Posted December 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2012 (edited) Yeah, but it's the only vehicle I have right now until my other half moves in finally, and even then, and, yes, I am well aware that this is a "ticking timebomb." Edited December 14, 2012 by Starflare5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Nightmare Posted December 15, 2012 Report Share Posted December 15, 2012 When my intake gaskets were bad (due to trying to reuse them after fixing the distributer cap leak) I had a problem where when the engine was cold, it would surge and sputter when in gear. This smoothed out once up to temperature. New gaskets, problem gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted December 15, 2012 Report Share Posted December 15, 2012 I figured out the engine popping and it's pretty much going to cost me about $500 at the cheapest so far. What's wrong? What most mistake as a blown head gasket is actually a lower intake manifold gasket What engine? $500 seems high for a LIM gasket. what's happening to my vehicle, oil and coolant are mixing at just the right levels to be burned off. Thusly, causing my car to have additional occasional "Low Oil Level" light and later the "Low Coolant" light before possible damaging danger occurs. In this case, I'm actually lucky for the moment. Most of the leaking is happening internally only as well, and, yes, I have lifted the oil cap to find a light brownish goo stuck to it made from the coolant and oil mixture. My car is not overheating as of yet either, which, in this case, means I have a golden opportunity to nip this monster in the bud early, that is, if it can hold out for a month until I can afford it. I know that my car is going through at least a quart of oil and maybe that in coolant every 2 weeks at the moment. Here's the problem. Your coolant is half water, half ethylene glycol (anti-freeze) The water boils off, pulled out by the PCV system. The glycol is still going through the bearings and lifters. This is not good, because glycol doesn't lubricate like engine oil. And if this was all that was happening, it'd be bad enough. Your oil level should be over-full, not low. If engine oil is getting into the cooling system, you'd soon find that oil coating the cooling system will reduce heat transfer. The sooner you fix this, the longer your engine should last. It's overdue already. No telling how much damage has already been done by putting this off so long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 international Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 Mine just officially sprang a leak in the head gasket today. Been smelling it but couldn't find a leak. Now I can see it coming out near the thermostat. Not sure I can do something this major. My brother in law doesn't want any part of it. Oil looks good, nothing under cap. Car still runs great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brake Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 Mine has been popping more and more lately. Got a burnt valve on #3 and I'm just waiting for it to drop that cylinder entirely. The LIM gasket is just starting to leak, I don't care to fix both problems. Don't know why it got hot enough to burn a valve but I got the car at 240k and I've put 40k on it. Don't know it's history. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 What engine? $500 seems high for a LIM gasket. THIS!! I had mine done at the Chevy dealer for that much.. The cheapest quote I had gotten was right at $300.. You might want to check some other places... I'd also tell them you're supplying the parts, because unless the dealer does it (they have the updated gaskets), then you're going to want to make sure Felpro PermaDry gaskets are used... Otherwise, you're going to have to get it done again at some point.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 Takes about 20-30 minutes to get to the part where you pull the LIM bolts out. Assuming one has removed the plenum and drained the coolant before. The hardest part i see is getting the damn throttle cables back into the throttle body, i hate doing that more than anything. Alot of that "popping" could be a bad exhaust gasket, either at the block or a donut off the manifold, combined with a leaky distributor plug next to the thermostat housing and it may get confusing deciding if its the LIM gasket or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starflare5 Posted December 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 (edited) Takes about 20-30 minutes to get to the part where you pull the LIM bolts out. Assuming one has removed the plenum and drained the coolant before. The hardest part i see is getting the damn throttle cables back into the throttle body, i hate doing that more than anything. Alot of that "popping" could be a bad exhaust gasket, either at the block or a donut off the manifold, combined with a leaky distributor plug next to the thermostat housing and it may get confusing deciding if its the LIM gasket or not. First of all, um, what distributor cap? These cars use a computer controled direct ignition system and coil packs. Plus, all of my spark plug wires are good and so is the coil pack. The popping is actually caused by inverted vacuum pressure inside the engine. I had this happen to me on a previous vehicle before I knew exacly what it was. The previous vehicle wasn't as worth fixing as my car now is. Anyway, both the 3.1 and the 3100 will pretty much start popping when this issue gets to the point to where there isn't a good seal between the air paths and oil and coolant paths that all are extremely close to each other where this gasket keeps them separated. All channels are pressurized in some way which can cause it to sound as if the upper intake manifold is back firing, yet, there is no exaust back-fire. Another sign I found that also make this issue apparant, major condensation in the air intake tube and upper manifold. This is also an early sign of this issue. Edited December 23, 2012 by Starflare5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starflare5 Posted December 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 What engine? $500 seems high for a LIM gasket. Here's the problem. Your coolant is half water, half ethylene glycol (anti-freeze) The water boils off, pulled out by the PCV system. The glycol is still going through the bearings and lifters. This is not good, because glycol doesn't lubricate like engine oil. And if this was all that was happening, it'd be bad enough. Your oil level should be over-full, not low. If engine oil is getting into the cooling system, you'd soon find that oil coating the cooling system will reduce heat transfer. The sooner you fix this, the longer your engine should last. It's overdue already. No telling how much damage has already been done by putting this off so long. This is the key reason I'm taking it to a dealer with experience in this matter. They have the lowest price in the Oklahoma City area (I've checked everywhere including independant mechanics) because they have dealt with this issue many, many times over for people and have it down pat. They know what to look for and what to do, plus, the price includes a full flush and coolant and oil change of course, plus they make sure that the parts of the engine that are suppossed to be glycol free are free again and that the parts that are suppossed to be dry are dry again. Plus, they'll tell me if there is likely to be any other damage, which, they told me over the phone as long as it's not overheating, the damage should not be severe at all. If it starts to over heat, stop driving immediately because then it could get into engine lock-up and warped heads. I told them that it is my only vehicle and I have to save money before I can bring it to them and that I also have to get a rental. Basically, they told me to keep a close eye on the temp, engine coolant, and oil level, and, for now, only replace the lost engine coolant with water and not to use stop leak additives because they can get into either system and cause more damage as well and/or be harder to get out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 If your LIM gasket is leaking, No amount of checking this and topping that and looking at gauges is gonna keep it from damaging parts. Mainly your bottom en bearings. Also, if this places knows what to look for, are they gonna take the pan off and inspect all the bearings that will be very much worn? You are gravely mistaken if you think there "wont be much damage at all". The gasket set costs $50, take a weekend and do it yourself... BTW, your dealership, is not gonna look things over. They will replace the gasket, and whatever fluids needed, and thats it. Dont let them sell you on shit that you think they will be doing when they wont be. Also, explain to me how you get boost from a leaking LIM. Your talking about inverted vacuum pressure? This is the first time Ive ever heard someone say popping is occuring. Also, the 3.1 and 3100 and set up entirely different. And if you say they start popping when they gat that bad, tell me why every other member on this board hasnt had this issue. Including me. You talk like you have gone through so many of these motors, but yet is unwilling to do the work yourself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starflare5 Posted December 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2012 (edited) If your LIM gasket is leaking, No amount of checking this and topping that and looking at gauges is gonna keep it from damaging parts. Mainly your bottom en bearings. Also, if this places knows what to look for, are they gonna take the pan off and inspect all the bearings that will be very much worn? You are gravely mistaken if you think there "wont be much damage at all". The gasket set costs $50, take a weekend and do it yourself... BTW, your dealership, is not gonna look things over. They will replace the gasket, and whatever fluids needed, and thats it. Dont let them sell you on shit that you think they will be doing when they wont be. Also, explain to me how you get boost from a leaking LIM. Your talking about inverted vacuum pressure? This is the first time Ive ever heard someone say popping is occuring. Also, the 3.1 and 3100 and set up entirely different. And if you say they start popping when they gat that bad, tell me why every other member on this board hasnt had this issue. Including me. You talk like you have gone through so many of these motors, but yet is unwilling to do the work yourself? You've never heard of the popping? It's not a boost, and it's not constant. It only occurs when the engine has cooled from being warm. It does not happen during driving or normal operation. This is something that develops as a result of this issue. It is mostly caused by a mix of back pressure from the air-intake, coolant lines (water pump, like duh), and the oil pressure. When they intermix in the lower gasket area of the engine, they cause the popping. Look it up on Yahoo. The first thing you'll find is lower intake manifold gasket failure. Also note that this MAY NOT occur with all vehicles. Most vehicles push the leak to the outside of the engine. My case is different because the leaks are internal and HAVE NOT made it to the outside. Also, I understand your concerns, however, I have to save the money to get this done over a month and DO NOT have another vehicle. I made this clear to the dealer which is why they will check it out for me. As far as the bearings go, they advised me to keep watch on the oil and I'm talking the dipstick. It is common with these vehicles with both the 3100 and 3400 to technically "burn-through" an excessive amount of oil during this issue, however, I also have to keep a watch on oil consistantsy. I advised them that I'm going through 1 quart every 2 weeks which is another sign that this issue is still in the early stages. At the end of the convo, they basically advised that my case , for one is NOT as severe as most due to 1. The leaks are internal. 2. I've caught it early. 3. It's not overheating. They advised that the oil may not be protecting as well as it should due to it being thinned by water/coolant which is why it's burning up without overheating, however, as long as I keep the oil in the engine, once I take it in, they'll check the cylinders for any severe damage or compression issues. If it doesn't check out, they'll suggest further repair if needed. If it's fine then they won't have to. They did suggest to me that a "tune-up" might be needed after the reapirs are completed as well. I advised that I can do that myself. And, hey, I could actually do this repair myself, but, first, of all, I live in Oklahoma, (DO NOT TAKE I.Q. DOWN 10 POINTS BECAUSE OF THIS FACT), and secondly, I work Monday through Friday and sometimes Saturdays as an IT Technician for the state, and third, I live in an apartment complex where my car is outside in the cold. Doe to all of the above, I must take it to a dealer to get it done right and quickly. Also, let me make this clear to everybody, I don't have the money or the time to make all the modifications and changes and repairs right away like you all have, like snapping my fingers, to get things done, so I have to deal with it and not live in fear. I'm a poor broke bitch, and I have to take the advice of someone that has actually done this several times over like that of a GM reapair shop at a dealer. Thank you, Starflare5. Edited December 24, 2012 by Starflare5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted December 26, 2012 Report Share Posted December 26, 2012 First of all, um, what distributor cap? These cars use a computer controled direct ignition system and coil packs. Yeah but GM apparently just put a plug held down by a bracket and single where on older models thet had a distributor and they get to leaking oil, alot. Its sort of tucked underneath the throttle body next to the thermostat housing. Just did the repair and no more oil leaks. The plug didnt have any sort of a seal other than the bolted down bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted December 26, 2012 Report Share Posted December 26, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starflare5 Posted December 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2012 Huh? Also, just a note guys, my car is not an LQ1. Not sure exactly what that means, but, I have discovered that alot automatically assume that it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted December 26, 2012 Report Share Posted December 26, 2012 Huh? Also, just a note guys, my car is not an LQ1. What engine? Did I miss the post where you told us what engine you have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted December 26, 2012 Report Share Posted December 26, 2012 Its the same part number is its a 3100,3.4DOHC, 3400 etc etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starflare5 Posted December 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 Its the same part number is its a 3100,3.4DOHC, 3400 etc etc... First of all, the 3100 is a second generation GM built 3.1 by Chevrolet. The 3400 is basically the third or fourth generation of that same platform with a higher displacement. The 3.4 DOHC is a Toyota engine built for GM. The biggest difference is that the Japanese at the time believed in using timing belts and in-sunk spark plugs where as Americans used mostly timing chains. If you all don't believe me, look at the Eco-Tech 2.2, also a Toyota engine that is basically a compact version of the 3.4 with slightly better hardware. You can also look at the Toyota 3.4 V6 that is pretty much identical to the one used in any car that used the 3.4 from back then. GM decided to build their own 3.4 (the 3400) a few years later to improve and out last the pitfalls of the 3.4, however, it was still based alot on the 3100 block due to it's compact size. Unfortunately, GM, by that time, did not improve the lower intake manifold gaskets as of yet. You people should know this, or, at least remember it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 Dude, you really need to shut it. your trying to sound smarter than you really are. part number is the same for all them. look it up. and im sorry this whole forum is not smarter than you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EGTGP Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 look at the Eco-Tech 2.2, also a Toyota engine that is basically a compact version of the 3.4 with slightly better hardware. The Ecotec Family is a DOHC 4-valve design with an aluminum block and head (L850 for 86 mm bore applications, and L880 for 88 mm bore), designed for displacements from 1.8 to 2.4 L. It was developed by an international team of engineers and technicians from Opel's International Technical Development Center in Rüsselsheim, Germany, GM Powertrain in Pontiac, Michigan, and Saab in Trollhättan, Sweden. Much of the development work on this project was carried out by Lotus Engineering, Hethel, United Kingdom. The engine uses aluminum pistons and cast ironcylinder liners. Vibration is reduced with twin balance shafts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 (edited) http://parts.nalleygmc.com/products/SEAL-Engine-Oil-Pump-DRIVE-Distributor-Housing-Engine-Oil-Pump-Body-Engine-Oil-Pump-Cover-Ignition-Distributor-Housing/2586629/10477565.html That part number fits all of them. You really need to shut it dude. Your trying to be smarter than you really are. And im sorry this whole forum is not as smart as you are. Edited December 27, 2012 by 19Cutlass94 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlassdude96 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Motors_60%C2%B0_V6_engine#Generation_III Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starflare5 Posted December 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 http://parts.nalleygmc.com/products/SEAL-Engine-Oil-Pump-DRIVE-Distributor-Housing-Engine-Oil-Pump-Body-Engine-Oil-Pump-Cover-Ignition-Distributor-Housing/2586629/10477565.html That part number fits all of them. You really need to shut it dude. Your trying to be smarter than you really are. And im sorry this whole forum is not as smart as you are. Dude? Can you seriously just not go there. That's it, I'm out, I'm deleting this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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