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Found 634 results

  1. So the title pretty much says it, the fluid is coming from the brake piston and is all over the pad and the disc. I always seem to have leaky rear brakes regardless of the brand of re-manufactured or new (when they where available) parts. is there something better i am just missing? and can the tool that is used for re setting the ebrake be rented at a parts store? thanks
  2. So late last year (2014), I had to several fixes all at once on my '95 GP SE. New hoses new radiator new alternator and a couple of small things here and there. I got all the parts and completed everything in a weekend. Afterwards, she was running just like she was before only with no leaking and more power <grunt, grunt, grunt>. Then I noticed my gas mileage dropping like a rock. I went from an avg of 22mpg to around 18mpg. At first I was baffled how anything I replaced could affect mileage so I did some research and couldn't really find anything. I even went and had the plugs and wires replaced. It was dead of winter in Michigan and I don't have access to a garage. I decided to tackle the simplest thing first. I had replaced my gad cap with a locking unit. So I decided to put the old one(original) back on, wait and see what happened. First tank of gas, my mileage jumped back up to about 19 mpg. After a while it has continuously climbed and is now around 21.59 mpg. Of course it all depends on my driving habits and stop and go traffic vs highway. So it just goes to show you, check the simple things first. Or Keep It Simple Stupid. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.
  3. Hello everyone, I am having a very small coolant leak from the bypass pipe that runs from under the throttle body to the top of the water pump housing. It is leaking from the connection where the heat hose assembly connects to it just above the water pump housing. I have had to replace the gasket that connects this pipe to the water pump housing before and it was no issue. I was wondering if anyone has any information of where I can find this pipe. I have look all over, and have been unsuccessful. Its for a 89 Grand Prix with the 2.8L.
  4. So guys I have had a minor coolant leak but today it got really bad I filled up the radiator and overfill tank then drove around for about 30 minutes all that time there was coolant dripping leaving huge puddles in the places where I stopped I parked it and turned it off and there was a hiss near the thermostat and coolant leaking off the bottom of the car seeming like it was comming from the back of the engine there is also NO indication of oil and coolant mixing. Do you Guys have any ideas? GM 3.1 V-6 58,000 miles
  5. It's time to ask a fuel injector question of my own. This is the situation with my '94 Cutlass LQ1. At 150K an injector or many started leaking, dumping fuel in the intake while car was off. I either had to crank a long time or floor the gas pedal to lean it out enough to get it started Not having a way to figure out which were leaking I replaced all of them with remanned by Autoline (bad decision). It ran perfect for a month then started cranking longer sometimes. Within a 6 months 1 failed resulting in an intermittent violent surge at idle (400- 1500 a few seconds then die. Thought it was a vacuum leak. I did find a couple of small ones with no resolution. I finally took it to the dealership, they found the faulty injector. They said anything less than 12 ohms was considered faulty. One measured 11 ohms. Then again this was for a '94 lQ1. the injector was replace under warranty, but labor was a lot. I wish I would have bought NEW ones, I still might just to be done with it. It still cranks a while sometimes. This is happening again. I talked them in in to replacement under warranty or money back. Anybody have experience with: GB manufacturing (reman) Standard automotive (new) Accel (new) 23lb/hr. Thanks for your input.
  6. kissmyss

    Coolant Elbows

    My alternator tensioner started getting weak, so I replaced it with one I purchased from ZZP. When I purchased the tensioner, I also purchased the coolant elbows from ZZP. I went on a road trip, when I returned I noticed coolant leaking on the ground and the leak was coming from the elbows. I didn't think I would have to change the O rings these before installation, I thought it only applied to the Doorman elbows. Luckily no damage occurred from the lack of coolant. I upgraded to the Doorman aluminum elbows and yes I replaced the O rings before installation. ZZP elbows after removal, notice how the O rings are compressed flat. Here are the aluminum elbows that were installed and a picture of one that was installed. I couldn't get a clear picture the other one. I also replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses. Getting to the lower hose clamps wasn't easy, but I got it done and now all is as it should be.
  7. I'll try to keep it short 'n sweet. 06 Grand Prix, Leaking Gas . Location: left, passenger side, under the car . Where the Steel fuel line joins (via a black connected), it seems to be dripping from the the black connector. The black connector seems to come down from the gas tank area. Question: Can another connector be purchased or can I somehow bridge it together. It's my work car, dosent have to be O.E.M., just needs to run w/o blowing up. Any help appreciated. Thanks. 😕
  8. OK, need help. I need to lay this out and get feedback as proof both of these garages are idiots, so here it goes, the complete story. 94 3.4. May 2013, broke serpentine belt, towed to garage. Replaced water pump, thermostat, belt, pulleys. Was told I had head gasket problems. Was leaking coolant somewhere when I picked up my car. Drove car to another garage, asked for pressure test to confirm. I was told there was a broken inlet valve on the bottom of the radiator, no way a pressure test could have been done on it to get to I had a bad head gasket. Took back to first garage, demanded they put radiator in my car, they did, no further leaks, no overeating problems, nothing. Drove all summer 2013 in 100+ heat with a/c going most days, top up or down. No problems of any kind. Parked it end of October for the winter. February, needed to use it to go pick up a dining room table with my trailer (it's got a factory installed trailer hitch), warmed it up, turned on the heat, blew nothing but cold air, froze my butt off for the 8 mile round trip. Parked it again for the rest of the winter. Saved up the money to get the "supposedly" blown head gaskets and decided to go ahead and have timing belt replaced at same time since it had been about 50K miles since being replaced, took it back to the garage that did the initial work with the water pump, radiator, etc., on August 31st. After 4 weeks and a lot of delays, got my car back on September 29. All seemed well. Drove for exactly 2 weeks. Went out one Monday morning to start it to go visit my brother in the hospital, it died. Tried again, it died. Got out to raise hood, oil all over my garage floor. Called garage to come get it, told them it looked like they might not have put my oil filter on tight or something, they towed it back to their garage. Called me the next day and said the oil sending unit was leaking, and oh by the way, you have a water leak. apparently they had let me leave the garage the first time, with a bad hose and didn't bother to replace it or even tell me about. After another 2 weeks, they were going to bring my car to my home since I had no way to come get it. So, manager was driving it to me, got about a mile from the store, overheated. towed it back to their garage. After another 7-10 of trying to figure out what was wrong, asked me if they could have it towed to another garage to get "correctly" diagnosed. A couple of days later, I get a phone call stating that the 2nd garage determined my heads had cracks in them and apparently the machine shop either missed it or something, so they were going to buy new heads for my car at their expense and fix it. Another week goes by. Winter is here, I have no ride, so they rent me a car to drive saying my car would be ready in a few days. Another week goes by. The 2nd shop is now telling them, they apparently repaired my heads, after I was told I was getting new ones, and now the block has pin holes in it, it's had them for over 2 years, and it's all "my fault" and the first garage isn't responsible for fixing my car as now my "piece of junk" car (their words) needs a whole new engine at a cost of over $6000. Next thing I know, my car is sitting in their parking lot torn down, they won't put it back together as "they won't be held responsible for it" and my rental car is yanked from me. So I am back on foot, no car, and their claims department is trying to say that for 2 years, my car has had pin holes in the block, can't be repaired, and they aren't going to do anything about it. Called today to find out when someone is going to put my car back together, waiting to hear that now. So, I need some professional opinions. Here is what I think. First garage that told me I needed head gaskets, replaced gaskets, let my car leave with a bad water hose, sent car to garage they have a "relationship" with (they send business back and forth), who are telling them I have been knowing driving my car for 2 years with a bad block, which is a lie. They repaired my heads apparently, put my car back together, guess what, still got hot I guess, so now instead of them standing behind that they told the first garage, the heads had cracks, now it's the engine block has pin holes and they aren't touching it again. Thoughts? And I guess I am going to have to sue them to get something done.
  9. OK all, I have a 97' Olds Cutlass Supreme SL with the 3.1L V6. The engine is leaking oil, due to needing the lower intake manifold seals replaced. I'm intending to do the repair, but one thing has me hesitant and/or confused about doing the job. After removing the rockers and push rods to replace the LIM seal, am I required to "set the valves" or can I simply bolt the rockers back on to a specified torque setting? I've read both. If anyone has an answer, or a place to get the details, I appreciate the feedback. Thanks in advance!
  10. I have had my convertible sitting in the garage for the past few weeks. I noticed a few drops of oil and alittle coolant to the side of the oil. Dumb question is there a sealant I can add to the engine to keep it from leaking?
  11. Hi all. I have a 90 TGP that I recently picked up with a leaking PMIII. In the process of changing the PMIII, I found a plastic vacuum line drapped over the back of the intake that did not appear to be connected to anything. This line comes from a rubber hose NEAR the cruise control actuator. I cant find where this hose goes. Looking at diagrams doesnt seem to help me. I'm assuming this is the HVAC hose, but have no idea as to how it gets it's vacuum. Does this hose actually attach to something near the back of the intake? It is attached to a rubber hose under the (not attached to the) cruise actuator and goes to a plastic line that is about 24" long and ends with a slightly angled rubber piece that has what appears to be grooves for a spring holder. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  12. Anyone ever replaced this on a factory power sunroof? I dont even know how to go about getting the glass off. Reason I ask is mine is leaking at the back of the sunroof where the two ends of the weather stripping meet. Any ideas? TIA
  13. Does anyone have a parts diagram of the PMIII that might show seals? Mine has a leaking seal in the motor/pump. There is a seal that keeps the fluid from traveling from the pump into the motor. I need that seal.
  14. This week for my car has been a big problem, first I need to change a motor mount, next the engine started to run rough and now the high pressure power steering hose is leaking. So todays question is is there an easy way to change the high pressure power steering hose on the 3.4 dohc engine.
  15. Selling my little green baby. The head gasket is leaking and hubby says no to fixing it up. (OK, so he did buy me another car). Has 173,000 miles, the top and rear window replaced 8 1/2 years ago. I installed a rebuilt top motor 4 years ago and works perfectly and I know the transmission was rebuilt around 93,000 miles by previous owner. Car starts and runs and has less then 400 miles on it since the head gasket started leaking. New Goodyear Eagles installed Dec 2013 (479 miles ago) and the cracked leather seats were rebuilt and reupholstered in tan cloth in Nov 2013. It is dark green with a black top (originally had a tan top but went with black when I replaced it). I do have a set of 1995 Camaro rear window sweeps that will go with the car and can be modified to fit as replacements and the tie rods ends need replacing according to Goodyear (when I had the tires installed) I have a black boot cover and storage bag and an owners manual to go with the car. Car is located in Topeka, KS and I am asking $900.00. Feel free to text me at 785-608-5670.
  16. I've come across someone selling a 1992 Lumina Euro with 83,000KM on it and hardly any rust for $400 CAD or best offer. Apparently runs well, and the only problems mentioned are a hole in the exhaust and leaking oil. I have the means to transport (not being sold certified to be driven), store, and work on it but considering the age I'm not entirely convinced it's even worth the trouble of picking it up. I've heard a lot of complaints about the 1st gen Luminas online and I'm not sure how much of that is justified (I've never owned a W body, so I'm pretty clueless when it comes to this). Any advice or relevant info would be appreciated.
  17. Where do you guys buy them? I need a quality master cylinder thats going to last. Ive found my current one is leaking, and need a new one. This is like the 3rd or 4th one since Ive swapped the car to a 5spd. For some reason this car goes through slaves and master cylinders like crazy. I dunno if its from it sitting too long or what. Any links to some quality stuff?
  18. i was under my car (1990 chevy lumina 3.1l) today looking for a oil leak thinking it was my oil pan gasket but well my car is running i notice no oil (from what i can see) leaking from the gasket but i do notice a clean spot from this line coming out of my motor above the oil pan and between the trans under the exhaust manifold and im guessing its clean do to a leak
  19. My quick disconnect connector for the cooler line that go into the transmission is leaking. Is there an o-ring inside that I can replace or do i have to replace the whole connector? Where can I get one at?
  20. Hi All, I have a red 1995 cutlass supreme permanent convertible that I am trying to determine if I should sell. I say permanent because when I bought it originally, the top was leaking and I removed all of the material. Bought the car in Oklahoma City in 2005. It has a little over 100K miles on her. I am keeping her for my son but I am considering selling so I can have my garage back. You can see the convertible next to my 1996 Cutlass Supreme on and search for cokehed1. Its been in my garage for a very long time. I uncover it and drive it around the neighborhood only because it is not registered anymore. Let me know what you think it is worth. If you can't see it on CarDomain, let me know. I will uncover and post pictures. Thanks for your time!
  21. So I noticed I have a leak in my car and it's coming from a rather strange spot. The place where my car is leaking coolant is here in the picture. It's the pipe directly above the exhaust pipe. Whenever I move it, I notice either more or less coolant comes from there, depending on what angle I move it to. I also notice if I push those clips, it stops leaking, but as soon as I let go, it starts to leak again. Sometimes the leak is seldom, sometimes running coolant comes, just depends on where I move that pipe to. My question is how do I fix this so it stops leaking whenever it's moved. All help is appreciated.
  22. god910

    5 speed help

    I took the TGP out today to make my power steering leak come back. (I couldn't get it cold, so I took it for a drive) I was just tooling around nothing too fancy, driving around BSU campus and giving the pretty ladies a BOV whistle on occassion. I pulled upto a stop sign, looked both ways, and pulled out. I got upto 2500-3000 and shifted to second, pedal went down fine, but never came back up. Clutch was engaged just fine. (And it was KIND enough to start leaking my powersteering fluid and smoking at this time) I drove it home by shutting it down when I HAD to stop, and starting it in first to pull-start it then shifting it by matching engine/tranny speeds. (Drive a semi. you'll stop using the clutch) I got home and tried to pull the pedal up w/ my hands and it took a ton of force (not actually 2000 pounds but you get the point) and went all the way up, and now won't go back down. Any ideas? My clutch fluid is fine, and I didn't have time to look at it, so I don't know what's up. TIA. P.S. Give me good news, because at the same time I found out I need a PS pump. Not just a line like I had thought.
  23. So, I need some PMIII expert advice. My master cylinder appears to be leaking from the rear of the unit. Not a lot, more of a drip. I recently put a new accumulator on it. When I removed the PMIII today, I saw an o-ring laying on the transmission. I am wondering if maybe it fell off the accumulator before I put it in. Can I remove the accumulator without replacing it again? Or will it leak out its charge when removed? Also, the place where the accumulator and pressure switch, etc bolt to the rear of the master was covered in a sealant of some sort that appears to be brittle and breaking off. Should I remove that whole assembly from the rear of the unit and re-seal it somehow?
  24. I have just been handed an 89' Grand Prix that has in the past had over heating problems. it's still pretty cold outside where I'm at so it hasn't had the problem. we changed the thermometer twice and that wasn't it. It was also brought to my attention that there is leaking coming from under the car. it had a red-ish tint to it and it's towards the front end of the car, nothing seems to be wrong performance wise. there's just leaking and over heating in the warm weather. also noticed the battery voltage bobs up and down when the turning signal is on and when I apply the brakes, I figure it's just an alternator. and finally yesterday, happening for the first time, I had it in park and running and it sounded like it was trying to rev and my foot was no where near the gas. HELP
  25. The Century is leaking gas in the driveway and these are the suspected bad they make prebent lines? thanks
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