slick Posted July 12, 2005 Report Share Posted July 12, 2005 Some of you know, and others may not know, that my car has some cancer. Suprisingly, this is the only bad spot on the car. The rest is surface rust on the underbody, which I will get with the POR-15 sometime in the near future. Otherwise, this is it. My rear wheel wells have rust, in some spots bad. Being that I'm in college, I don't exactly have a ton of money, BUT, I do like to do things correctly, so I will save what money needed to get this done correctly. So, here are some pictures. I do have closer shots on the intraweb if wanted, but i figured these would do for now. So, I want to properly fix this. I know that the first step is probably sand back the paint, and asses just how large the area is, but I just want to make sure on that before I do that. Afterwards, do I start cutting the cancer away?? I can hit up a JY anytime to get some sheet metal, so thats really no problem, except for the cutting it out part . Anyone have any good tools or tips on doing this? Once I get it welded in, I'm assuming that I grind down the welds, then start doing body work in that area. But, that will come in another thread at a later time, as I'm no bodywork god either, and there are a few other spots on my car that are in need. I hope to get this all done by the end of fall, get it protected for the winter. Next spring I co-op, so I should be making decent money for a damn nice paintjob. Any help/tips/comments THAT ARE POSITIVE are appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted July 12, 2005 Report Share Posted July 12, 2005 Your probably going to have to cut that out and replace it, that's the only way to 100% stop it. The same thing happened to my Lumina. They cut the bad part out, and replaced it with a rust free one from a Lumina Euro. This was just on one side, but about 2 years after this was done, the other side of the car did the exact same thing. Here's some pictures of the process it took on my Lumina. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2005 Thats what I figured that I would have to do. So... my first step will be to figure out how much will need to be cut out, then head to the yard and find some metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 Also, when I was with Jay(xtremelumina92) sunday and monday, we were talking, and he was showing me the new Scion TC. They actually lay a bead of weld along the seam in the rear fender well to keep water from actually getting inbetween the layers of sheetmetal. I figured I would probably do this, as well has POR-15 the underside of it as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 POR15 is some good shit, you wont be disapointed there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtped Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 POR15 is some good shit, you wont be disapointed there. Nothing better we have used it t our shop super stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 Have you checked the inside of the rear quarters for rust starting?? What I mean is removing the plastic vent cover in the door jam and looking in there with a flash light and look towards the bottom and towards the very corner. My Euro had rust "Just" starting there luckily, so I just sanded it down uses a long stick and snad paper to get in there through the small vent hole. I then crammed my hand with a stick and tons of asphalt undercoating and filled in the seams, and took a spray bottle of expanding tar and sprayed it all through in there. It worked good, and only smelled ofr a day until it died. You might want to check that out as well if you haven't already before the bottom of the quaters start to rust out. IIRC - this was memntioned on the w-body main site as a design flaw because there were no drain holes for water entering in through the vent holes...instead of drillign holes, I just coated the whole inside with tar from that aersol can and it is working very good. I have a couple pics of the final result if needed - Jeff L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 I have a couple pics of the final result if needed- Jeff L. Could you post them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 Anyone know of any good tools I could use at a JY to cut out some metal out of another 2dr lumi? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 batt powered sawzall, or a batt powered die grinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 batt powered sawzall, or a batt powered die grinder The grinder is what I had in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 I would use a grinder to grind all the way down to the metal... however those definaly look like HOLEs, just just surface rust.. so I'd have to agree with everything LukeZ34 said.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 The grinder seems like its gonna be my best friend for a while then. That, or a gas powered chain saw at the yard!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 Okay, here is 2 "during" shots. I filled the crease all the way up and down and sprayed more tar into there, because I didn't know what else to use, and it worked aweosme on my rx-7...so anyways, pics: If you are like me, after your done your hands will all be cut up. But basically that is what I did. I sanded it down (I only had surface rust), vacuumed it out with a crappy old shop vac with a shinny hose, then went at it with the tar. - Jeff L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 Hmm.. cool. Thanks for the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 It's probably not the correct way to fix the problem, but I'm pretty sure it won't rust anymore because any water that gets in there would be on the tar, and not the metal. It took me approximentally 3 hours from discovery to finish. It was luck that I found it, the little plastic cover on that vent was rattling, so when I went to tightne it I ecided what the hell, apparently there is a flaw in here, and sure enough. So from inventing things to sand to finishing the fix took me 3 hours, but I'm pretty slow at doing stuff so... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 was that sprayed through the vent in the door jamb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 i'm assuming that "tar" you used was undercoating? I've been using that stuff for a while to almost coat the entire underside of the cutlass where it need to be protected to prevent rust, or where I've sanded away rust and then undercoated it. Stuff works great. I haven't had any new rust on the underside of the cutlass in a while despite the northeast winters. Then again, in the winter I wash my car about every 2 weeks or less to get all the salt and crap off of her, especially on the underside. I think that's mostly why the undercoating has been preventing rust. Honestly, you can take care of your W great in the summer, but if you don't care for it well in the winter too, it's not going to matter. That's how you'll get rust. That's just my 2cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 Tar based undercoating is very bad. It'll work great for awhile, but then it starts to harden and become firm. Eventually water will find its way under the undercoating and will eat the metal faster than exposed, untreated rusty metal. Cars don't rust out too bad here in southwest Missouri, but when they do, it's often because of aged undercoating. I had an old '78 AMC that was undercoated. I noticed some old, cracking undercoating, so I started to pull it off with a screwdriver. Crusty chunks of rust came off with it, leaving giant gaping holes in the floor. Where they missed with the undercoating, was fine. The undercarriage of my 89 which was undercoated is also considerably more rusty than the 88 which was not. What you want to use is something that doesn't dry to the touch. You want to use something greasy that stays greasy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 You want to use something greasy that stays greasy. That's how mine is. I know the first can of it I bought that wasn't beacuse it was a different brand from what I use now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 You want to use something greasy that stays greasy. That's how mine is. I know the first can of it I bought that wasn't beacuse it was a different brand from what I use now. I've head this particular stuff on my RX-7 of a couple years now and it hasn't turned hard yet... maybe I screwed up putting that stuff in there on the Lumina, but I didn't really know what else to do....maybe I should have just shot some spray paint in there ??? Anyway, this is slick's tread so I won't hijack it anymore, sorry man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 i'm thinking of using some great stuff, it'll deaden sound and fill the gap. I know it sounds hillbilly, but it just might work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 i'm thinking of using some great stuff, it'll deaden sound and fill the gap. I know it sounds hillbilly, but it just might work No not really. I actually think that sounds like a pretty damn good idea. Let us know how that turns out if you actually do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted July 14, 2005 Report Share Posted July 14, 2005 with minor surface rust, do u sand it with coarse paper, then smooth the metal with fine paper, then do u need rust nuetralizer? or is it optional, andthen prime and paint, i have everything but nuetralizer, is that a problem, will rust come back?? this seemed like kind of a rust thread, so i had to ask Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted July 14, 2005 Report Share Posted July 14, 2005 I've always used a neutrailzer....it cool to watch the bubbling action lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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