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Found 443 results

  1. I have a question, if you know the origin of the photos of the 1988 pacecar in a museum, the ones where the car is behind a velvet barricade, and with an engine on display. Basically, where was this photo taken?????? who took it? I visited (finally!) the Indianapolis Motor speedway...... and went to look at the photo archives for 1988. so far..... here's what I learned: 1988 pace car replica convertibles were used as parade cars. 1988 coupes were also used as parade cars... and at least some of these had sunroofs! calais coupes were also used as parade cars in 88, painted in the 88 pacecar scheme, and not the 86 paint. JIM DAVIS rode in the 49 pace car. In the prior pictures I have seen, I have isolated only two real pace cars. 1 with race lighting, with HUD, with removal rollbar, with leather interior, WITH HOOD VENTS! with Quad 4 1 withOUT race lighting, withOUT HUD, with removal rollbar, with leather interior, without Hood vents, with Quad 4. almost ALL publicity shots are of the non-race ready vert. in the publicity packet that comes with the 50 pacecars (maybe all 250, or ?) is a picture showing two verts under construction whose caption implies that they were the only two cars produced to be real pacecars. so far the cars I have seen from the photo archives are consistent with these two, However, the archives guy said that typically they have 3 ready pacecars. the archive guy showed me a picture of a prior year HURST OLDS pacecars.... with EVERY Hurst Olds pacecar (including parade replicas) in a formation on the track. If I dig... and go through a stack of proofs that would sit 6 feet tall... I am hoping to locate a similar 88 image.
  2. I know it's a long shot, but just in case any of you guys hitting yards happen across them, I'm looking for a 3rd gen SPO front lip. They clip in (and maybe some double sided tape), and were available on the 06-08's with the special appearance package. They all can be had new, but I figure I'd throw this out there. There's also a rear bumper one, but that's secondary, still on my list though also there's a slightly different spoiler, but that's last on the list
  3. I have found a location in Columbus that would be a good spot for our meet -- Highbanks Metropark on 23 and a Motel 6 down the road a piece, about 3 miles. I figure we can give this a shot for some variety, and have the second meet in Toledo as it has worked for us for a few years. Of course, this being our meet it is not my decision alone. Please vote for how you'd like this year to go. I will leave this up for a week and make this thread visible.
  4. Hello everybody, I have been cruising around here for a while as a guest and finally started an account, I'm also on gpf.net. I have a 98 grand prix daytona pace car with a sunroof and I have a dream of building a 97- 03 5 speed gp. Ill be looking for knowlege and parts mostly and I can give my best shot at advice to others.
  5. Don't know if anyone can help me but here goes. My 1995 Buick Riviera was recently totaled in a parking lot by a drunk driver. My work let me take the 1997 Lumina 3.1 4 door to use. I insured and registered it and it runs great. Problem is the front seats are shot and I called numerous places and no one has a pair. One junkyard told me the only difference between GM seats from those years are the way the tracks bolt to the floor. Older cars have 4 bolts and newer cars have 2 bolts in back and a front hinge that secures the seat. He told me I could use newer Impala seats and all I would have to do is unbolt the track from my seats and put them on the impala seats and they will bolt right in. He claims all GM seats , even the buckets and split bench in front can interchange tracks because all the seats have the same bolt pattern, it's just the bottom tracks that secure the seat to the floorpan that is different. Could this be true because I found a 2002 Impala with the same color split front bench in flawless condition and if all I have to do is switch tracks Ill buy them right now. Thanks for any help. Bigbad1 Sorry I had to edit this , My lumina has cloth bucket seats in the front that touch each other. Not a split bench. Sorry.
  6. I just started my cat this evening and there was shot of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. I backed it up for a few and let it ran awhile. still had white smoke. I did see a little antifreeze under the engine. Car sounds fine. Any ideas besides the obvious head gasket failed or leak. We did drive last week for awhile and the car was fine. Thanks again for any feedback.
  7. CDN

    Seat questions

    My lumina is in need of a driver seat replacement, had a nice big tear in it when I got her and the foam is pretty shot as well. From what I have been reading, it is possible to use a passenger seat in place of the driver's seat. My first question is in a 99 Lumina, is it a simple matter of unbolt old driver's seat and drop in a passenger's seat? If not, do I have to swap the hardware under the seats or something? I know this has been asked before but I just want to make sure that I'm reading things right. If it's as simple as it sounds, not counting a stubborn nut or something, might be a easy enough project to take care of when I have some downtime. Thanks ~Ryan
  8. Anybody have first hand knowledge? My gray carpet shell is pretty shot so I'm thinking about making it black. I was told it gets stringy and clumpy so it may be a bad idea to do a whole shell. The plan is to pull it out and pressure wash it, then let it dry and scrub the dye in outside of the car.
  9. First off, my contact info so anyone can join us at anytime and I can lead everyone to the group or the next stop Al Walker 4193764073 We will all be staying at the Red Roof Inn again, the reservations are set up and ready to be booked. Reservation is under W-body. Red Roof Inn 1570 South Reynolds rd Toledo, OH 43614 419-893-0292 Room rate is 64.99 per night, I tried getting it cheaper, but to no avail. Friday night plans are to get checked into the hotel and eat dinner at Jeds, Jeds is in the same parking lot so you can just walk over and join the member that have already arrived Saturday morning we will head over to Sidecut park and have lunch, we will grill up some burgers and hot dogs and have other snacks as well Sidecut Metropark 1025 West River rd Maumee, Oh 43537 Map: Saturday after the park, some people will want to go junkyarding, some will want to go to the bowling alley, some will want to play putt putt, all these options are available, I can post more on those later Saturday evening, Dinner at Shawns at 730 Shawns Irish Tavern 4400 Heatherdowns Blvd Toledo, OH 43614 Map: Saturday after the bar we will most likely come back to the hotel and hang out Sunday morning, breakfast at Bob Evans, I would like to reserve the table for 10am, this may be too early for some of our crew Bob Evans 2433 South Reynolds Rd Toledo, OH 43614 Map:
  10. Awhile ago I fixed the wiring harness from rodent damage and installed a new intake manifold. in the midst of installing the intake I left one important part out of the equation...The PCV valve. Car smoked like a MF-er and the exhaust might as well been the equivalent of a fog machine on steroids. Ended up clogging the cateletic converter (BLAH ). Now it's totally shot and I'm wondering if I should just delete it. Lets be honest...Cats are damaged by crap that happens upstream in the engine. This is the second one that the car is on and I wanna not have to fool with putting another one in when it would be cheaper just to get a piece of pipe to delete it with. Thing is that if I delete the cat then thanks to the computer the engine will be running in this weird thing called "open loop" all the time causing it to run rich. Is there any way I can fool the computer into thinking that the cat still exists? I'd rather not fool with excessive aftermarket stuff. My car is OEM spec and I don't really want to tamper with it too much. I'd prefer to keep it as close as it was when it came off the assembly line. If there is a reliable way to delete the cat without any extreme aftermarket stuff then that would be easier for me to do. If I ever mod a W then I'll get another and do that pipe dream RWD conversion I've always wanted to do. With that in consideration I'm open to any and all advise and suggestions.
  11. not sure how many members are in this area but figured i would post anyway.
  12. Hi my name is Charles I has a 91 gp with the 3.1 mfi I had to replace the lower intake gaskets on it. my problem is I had two of the plenum bolts break on me. plus they has a rubber grommet that goes on them they are all shot . And go figure gm discontinued them and I have not been able to find them any where,so if any one out there could help me out or at least point me in the right direction on how to find some it would be greatly appreciated.
  13. Greetings all! My Lumina has a slight issue. About three weeks after an oil change, I started noticing oil spots on the ground where I park. Over next two weeks, the spots have grown bigger and bigger. On the inside, there is oil all over the starter. I've done some research and found a couple common issues: intake manifold gasket failure and oil sending unit failure. I grabbed a couple shots of the oil sending unit with my camera, and it seems like there is some fresh oil around it. What do you guys think? Is the sending unit the most likely culprit judging by the pictures? What other areas should I be looking in? Any advice is greatly appreciated. This is sending unit and oil filter. This shows below the sending unit. Thanks a lot guys, Turtle
  14. I just joined this site so I'm not familiar with how to search the forum for related posts. I read something prior to registering that convinced me I have a badly worn lower mount. When I subsequently inspected my vehicle, it was very apparent that the rubber on the right side mount was shot. I enjoy tinkering on this old car and would like some opinions on replacing it myself or having it done in a local shop. Please advise. ~SC
  15. Hey everyone! Well what can I say, just purchased a 91 lumina z34 with an automatic tranny. I tried hard finding a 5 speed but came across this one I purchased and totally fell in love with it. It has 88,xxx miles. Interior is in great shape. I got all the maintenance records since the car came out of the dealership. I am the 3rd owner and the previous owner which was an elderly lady bought it with 29,000 miles. Really excited about it and I will be looking to take care of this car. By the way my brother had a z34 back in the day and I always loved it. It was this or a 5 speed sho but I found this to be in much better shape than all those 91-94 5 speed sho's. With that said hi to all and I will be looking forward to this community as I will have many questions.
  16. A little pissed off, thought the Regal came back with excess neg camber and now I realized today one of my rear tires is shot. So I'm going to order the rear adjustment tool so they can do it right. I understand it's for toe but it'll show them that there's adjustment to be had. The big question is which brand is better? The Northstar brand: Or the Goodson: The Northstar is three bucks more after shipping than the Northstar.
  17. REALLY late in posting this up, but Saturday, June 15th in Champaign, IL. PM me with questions! If you can't make it, consider a donation, PLEASE! My dad, who usually a HUGE part of the show, was pretty sick for the beginning of the year and is still recovering, so we're still REALLY behind with everything... *** DONATE HERE*** *** PRE-REGISTER HERE***
  18. Hi all, I'm having some trouble with closing the top on my 94. Driver side latches shut fine. Passenger side is a different story. The latch of the top doesn't seem to want to grip the frame. If i hold it just right it will close, but from the outside there is a little play between the windshield frame and the top is a push down, and from the inside, if I grab the latch, it is loose enough that I can wiggle it with my finger and the top pops up. Is there an adjustment for this, or is the latch shot? it doesn't seem to have any more or less play than the driver side. I noticed that the J-hook latch is threaded...can I just turn it in?
  19. just a reminder of the big olds regional show in lansing michigan june 14th....15 weekend. you can google it and find out all of the details. great show ...no judging ....just enjoy all of the great oldsmobiles. gryfan
  20. Mine's shot. I read that it's like $30 and is on the oil pan. Does it screw into the oil pan, is there some kind of gasket needed so it don't leak... basically how do I change it?
  21. Hello all, longtime forum reader here. I had some trouble with my HUD switch for my 94 Cutlass Supreme and I was hoping someone could help. The "HUD CONTROL" switch has broke, and the up and down adjust has stopped working. Has anyone else had this problem? I assume the mechanism is shot, so I am looking for a replacement part. Would anyone be willing to sell me this part? I desperately need it. A HUD is essentially useless without being able to adjust it, you know?
  22. I'm Charlie, 18, and I recently bought a 1993 Euro Coupe for 500 dollars. It has 120,000 miles on it and the engine was replaced at 60k due to a spun bearing. Other than the interior being a bit worn the car is in pretty good shape and I like to think that I got a good deal. I usually lurk on forums due to laziness more than anything but the car has a bunch of little things that could use fixing so I'll probably be around here a bunch. The car: Those are thumbnails btw, linked to higher res versions. There are all sorts of fun things that require special handling to function, but that's to be expected with a car this cheap. To open the passenger door you have to push on the lock a little and put downward pressure on the handle. The turn signal stalk needs to be finagled the right way or the turn signals just come on instead of flashing. The parking break is sorta dangling useless both inside and underneath the car. There is a vaccuum hose that is dry rotted going to the cruize control. Speaking of dry rot all four tires are shot, but the 200-mile-old tires from my previous car (2001 Subaru Outback wagon) fit, so that shouldnt be too much of a problem. Other than the udder lack of cup holders, are there any model/platform specific quirks I should know about? P.S. I wasn't sure whether to post this in General, Members Rides, or here; please move if I chose wrong.
  23. Cutlass Headlight Covers So, I know there has been some interest recently on how to make a set of headlight covers for a Cutlass. I know this has been done before and is nothing new, but no one has really put together a really good right up on how to do this. I figured I would give it a shot and get some of the info out there in one thread. Instead of several threads. I did purchase a few thing to get this project going. A 2'x3' piece of plexiglass. A circular saw blade for plexiglass. It made for cutting the glass very easy on my table saw. The plexiglass blade has much finer teeth and won't chip the edges along your cut. Then I also bought some plastic bond epoxy from the hardware store. I picked up an extra set of headlight surrounds for a CS at the junkyard a while back for this project. That way I could always switch back if I wanted too. The first thing I did was use sand paper along the points of contact on the black headlight surrounds where I wanted to put the glue. This way I would be sure to get the glue to bit down good and stick better. I grabbed a piece of cardboard and made a template of the headlight surround. That is what I put down on my plexiglass and traced it out with a sharpie. From there I proceeded to cut out the piece of glass with the table saw. After my glass was cut out. I sanded down all of the edges to get them nice and smooth with wet sand paper. Next I used a heavy grit on the inside of the plexiglass to scratch up the surface where I wanted the glue to be applied. After the glue was applied I clamped it down and set two books on top of the piece so it was weighted down. Any glue that got onto the back of the glass I cleaned up with a hot damp rag. My next step will be to apply the VHT Nitshade to the plexiglass after the glue cures. That will be my finished product. Here is a couple of pictures of just the plexiglass glued to the headlight surround. I have completed both of these. The glue recommends 24 hours before being handled. After that I will tint. Then I'll need to get some pictures of them on the car. I hope this helps someone.
  24. Hey guys, I have a bit of a dilemma here. I have a '95 Olds Cutlass Supreme with a deck problem, so the engine is pretty much shot. I just had the transmission (4T60E) freshly built 5,000 miles/4 months ago. I have bought a wrecked '98 LTZ Lumina wit 98k on it. It is a one owner car with meticulous maintenance records, including transmission services and oil changes. The Lumina has the 3800 with the 4T65E in it. I cannot decide whether to just put the cradle with engine and trans. from the Lumina in the Olds (easiest option), or drop just the 3800 in there and mate it to the 4T60 from the Olds and then just deal with the wiring. I think '96 Regals have the 3800 series II with the 4T60E, so I could get a wiring harness and computer from one of those. What do you guys think?
  25. So yesterday I rolled the driver window down on the Paperweight (92 GP coupe), and it wouldn't roll back up more than a quarter of the way. Not at all nice when it is barely above freezing, and you're driving at nearly 60MPH! Anyways, I did some searching and I think I have the answer, but I want to confirm I'm on the right track (pun not intended). It was pretty obvious that voltage was getting to the motor even though the motor was not moving, as the voltage would drop every time I hit the switch with key on, engine off. I found that if I pulled the window up firmly it would move about an inch, and then the motor would be able to raise it the rest of the way (most of the time). Based on my searches, I'm thinking that either the plastic tabs on the bottom of the window are shot, or the track itself is deformed and allowing the window to slide off. Does this sound about right? If this is the case, any hints or tips regarding disassembling the door? This would be the first time I've needed to do that in a W. Thanks everyone!
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