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Found 1,121 results

  1. My dad made the comment that i should grab a second car so im not feeling rushed when wrenching on the monte. I agreed. Been poking around and actually found two nice cars i actually like. 2001 regal gs Pros-clean as hell, most parts interchange with my monte, ive actually wanted a regal for a while, will make a good candidate for a regal 2-door conversion idea i had(hehehe) Cons-they have a price a lil high on it, previous body repair. 2008 impala ss Pros-5.3 , good color scheme(red/black), eeven cleaner than hell, decent price, would b an eventual ls4 donor for monte after car is beat up and the trans dies Cons-little interchange with monte, before mentioned trans weakness, more expensive parts Kinda leaning towards regal even tho the impala is a better deal
  2. Not much really to say... It's my build thread. Now that I have 2 cars again I can finally focus on getting the Cutlass where I want it to be without having to worry about having it good to drive when I need to go somewhere since my Camaro is now my daily driver. So far I've had the Cutlass sitting for about 2 months now since there's just a lot I need to work on that car, so without further ado this will be my build thread. Every mod and some fixes will go in here. My ultimate goal is to have a cruiser for those days when I have people with me (the Camaro barely fits 4 comfortably) while at the same time modernizing the 1G W body into what GM should had made it the first time around. This won't be a night to day transformation but it might be entertaining for people to see what can be done with these cars... Plus with Cardomain being wack now I kinda wanted a place to talk about my car. Here's some pics of the last time I washed the car in October or so. This is pretty much how she sits now.
  3. List up the stuff you're bringing and stuff you need. I need: 2nd Gen FSTB/RSTB Could use a L36 power steering pump as well
  4. GP1138

    2015 June Meet Location Thread

    So, we have a vote going for the date. Now let's work on the location. I can work with the hotel in Toledo to get the same deal we've been getting the last few years, but there has been a little talk of moving it. I'd be more than happy to set it up in Dayton at a better hotel, I can think of a few right off that would be suitable near parks that would also be suitable for our group. If another location is wanted, please put it in the discussion. I'll start a poll after some discussion, because right now Toledo and Dayton are the only two I personally can think of as solid. I know there are other good cities, Columbus and even possibly Cincy are possibilities IMO. Let's get some discussion going!
  5. Hi, I am looking for a LOWER front valence in very good to Excellent condition. Putting it on a 1989 red TGP. Dont mind painting it of course. I just bought the car(was just delivered from Maine today). This is my first 'WANTED' ad that I have posted...so not sure if I can post my phone#
  6. Recently had multiple problems with windshield wipers and washer motor on 1992 Lumina Euro 3.4. I think this should apply to all '94--older W bodies, though. Last fall, the windshield washers quit squirting fluid. I ignored it. Figured the washer fluid was empty, or frozen, and "I'll fix it later". Sometime in January, the wipers quit working. OK, that got my attention. Family matters kept me from fixing the problem--too busy flying back and forth to California to work on the car. Car is now fixed, photos re-sized and hosted, etc. Time for the write-up. Fixed wipers first. Wiring was intermittent at the wiper switch. Remove under-dash panels, remove steering wheel, remove "turn signal" stalk, remove "Hazard Flasher" button, remove horn contacts, pop three screws. Worst part is routing the wire harness under the steering column, and even that isn't too bad. Result: Wipers work, even on delay/pulse. WASHER still does not spray fluid. Replacement wiper switch came from NAPA, http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=ECHWS1051_0306359133 Test WASHER motor. Seized. I can apply power and ground to the motor, the motor does not turn or pump. Scavenge tested-good WASHER motor (and washer bottle) from another vehicle. WASHER still does not work. Check for power and ground at two-wire harness connector for washer pump, near battery. Ground is OK, but there is no power to the motor when the washer switch on the "turn signal" stalk is rotated. Turns out that the WIPER motor is also used to pass-through the power to the WASHER motor. If the circuit board for the WIPER motor is defective, the circuit for the WASHER motor can be incomplete. The circuit board is discontinued by GM. I cannot find a source for rebuilt or aftermarket WIPER circuit boards. Rebuilt WIPER motors do not ship with the circuit board. The circuit board is Treasure Yard Only so far as I can tell. Theory: Defective WASHER motor led to failure of electronic components on WIPER motor circuit board. Went to the Treasure Yard looking for a WIPER motor and circuit board. They sell the wiper motor only as an assembly with the wiper transmission and mounting bracket as an assembly. Discover that the wiper motor (with delay wipers) may be interchangeable from '89 to '98 on some W-bodies, but the TRANSMISSION IS DIFFERENT. Treasure Yard sells me a wiper motor/wiper transmission assembly from a 1995 vehicle. I am fixing a '92. Removal of WIPER motor/transmission from '92: 1. Remove wiper arms by removing plastic cover over pivot. Remove nut holding arm. Remove hose for washer from nearby nipple. Wiper arm may be lifted, and a small drill bit installed through slot near hinge so that arm is held up away from glass. I used an adjustable battery terminal puller to get arm to release from tapered, splined pivot shaft. Wiper arms then lift off of pivot shaft. Helps to have the hood about half-way open. 2. Remove two plastic retainers (straight-blade screwdriver), and a small fistful of sheet metal screws from black-painted metal trim piece. Trim piece also has "rubber" seal to windshield that is often damaged by windshield wipers. Black paint typically flakes off, can be easily cleaned and re-painted. 3. Remove small fistful of sheet-metal screws from black plastic "grille" that screens air for heater/defroster. Disconnect washer hose from nipple on firewall. Remove "grille" assembly. Careful, it's likely to fold-up in the middle. Mine was already broken from clumsy windshield installer years ago. 4. Remove two or (maybe) three screws from black plastic shield over wiper transmission. Shield protects the actual air entry for the blower fan, so that rainwater coming off of windshield doesn't enter passenger compartment via the blower fan. 5. Remove two electrical connectors from wiper motor. They are locked in place with two green tabs which have to come out before the connectors can be unlatched. 6. Remove six bolts through the six rubber grommets of the wiper transmission. 7. Cleverly twist/lift/yank the wiper motor and transmission from vehicle. Installation is the reverse of disassembly. (I've always wanted to say that.) Original wiper motor dated [19]"92 012". New wiper motor dated "04 04 [19]95" And again, on the motor itself: 92, and the part number also. Newer motor, different part number, but completely interchangeable with the '92 motor. I put the '95 motor/circuit board onto the '92 transmission. Fits and works wonderfully. So again, the wiper motor interchanges, but the transmission does NOT. Cover, nut, and washer hose to be removed. Plastic retainer for metal shield (one of two retainers) Washer motor and power connector. Blue wire is ground, red wire is power. [i have at least one more photo to post, and perhaps adding some additional info--but--I wanted to get this started while I had some time.]
  7. L36 heads for sale, $20/pair. If someone wants them I can run them to the Columbus meet, too heavy to bring if nobody says they want them. 130,000 miles off running engine. L67 blower, TMU, off an engine I stripped. Again too heavy unless someone claims it. $25. 2 brand new remote fobs for gen II, bought for the Bonneville and they're the wrong ones $8/ea. Left hand DIC, lightweight, it's coming regardless. $8. 3 Gauge dashtop pod $15, wanted to live where my HUD is going so I used alternate mounts. L36 fuel rail, lim, tb, make offer, not coming without some interest. Have a used uim to go as well but I wouldn't run a used one so I'm assuming nobody wants it. l26 Fuel rail, I don't know why I have an L26 fuel rail but it's pretty. L36 Valve Covers I'll probably have more odds and ends.
  8. I have already introduced myself thru the "New Members" section. By the responses have received so far with a couple of ?'s I have asked I'm really stoked about getting the wife's Buick back into shape! A little backround; She bought her Gran Sport new in 1990 from the now defunct Saeger Buick in Columbus Ohio. She drove it for 15 years and 168k well maintained miles. It was her 1st new car and was (is) very proud of it. Even though it's a 3100 and not the 3800 it was fairly sporty. We have owned large dogs and have a house with maintenance issues. When it was time to look at a new ride she wanted a bigger vehicle to accommodate dogs and builing materials. She bought a GMC Envoy in 2005. I expected that she would trade/sell the Buick. WRONG!! She had a senti-MENTAL attachment and wanted to hang on to it, So........ In 2005 was parked out by the garage under the "protection" of a car-cover. Perhaps she thought it would be an occasional use car?? Well, it was never used again. Roll forward to present day. I am into vintage VW's and have restored a couple. We have an annual car show that features a different make/model each year. The 2015 feature is the 50th anniversary of Buick Gran Sport. She would like me to clean it up an show it as an original owner survivor. I'm not as familiar with the intricacies of "modern" cars and the associated electronics but now her Regal is 25 years old and qualifies for "Historic" vehicle status here in Ohio. If you have made it this far thank you. I will post up my progress and pictures here. Thanks for all the help! As she sat On Stands ready to dig in Interior is pretty clean More to come.....
  9. looking for basic performance parts 3.4 pulley 1.8-1.9 rockers 3"downpipe with bung powerlog northstar tb adapter if your in New England I can drive to you.otherwise send asking price with shipping to 02169
  10. Im looking for the plastic piece for the drivers side latch on my convertible. Not the cup, its the other plastic piece that fits in this opening. Thanks, Frank
  11. donaldlw30

    w cars

    Hello everyone, i am new to the site but I wanted to everyone know i am into Oldsmobile cars and parts big time, i own 4 cutlass supreme Convertibles ranging from 92 to95 and i have a lot of parts also have 4 coupes from 94 ,95,96 also lots of parts for them as well, reach out to me if you need anything mrfixit6886@hotmail.com
  12. Hi guys! Been a while since I've logged in and about 15 minutes ago someone tried to log in to my account here. The system rejected any more log in attempts and auto generated an email with the perps ip address. Just wanted to let you know in case anyone else was having trouble. I sold my 90 TGP last year. I bawled my head off but I didn't have the time or money to do the cosmetic stuff needed. It still purred like a kitten. I sold it for $1100 which I didn't think was too bad considering how trashed it was. I will own one again someday. I am sure of it. Anyhow, let me know if you want the perps ip address and track them for me. Xoxo Snip
  13. I know much has been posted on the topic, but I just wanted to mention that I am one who has ran through the gamut of troubleshooting steps for correcting the multiple misfiring issue. Mine ended up being the ICM. Replaced it with the slightly cheaper Valucraft ICM, she ran like new. Less than a year later, the wonderful P0300 misfiring came back. Had it start happening in the middle of my trip home from work. Parked it, let it sit overnight. Next day, problem was fine until I drove it for approx. 15 minutes, then it was back. It did this two more times before it finally became a permanent issue. I decided to swap out the ICM FIRST this time, and its back to running like new now. Just wanted to share this so that others know: 1. An ICM can fail again within a year or less of being replaced. 2. Especially if you go w/ the cheaper Valuecraft ICM I bought the cheaper one again (much to my chagrin) as at the time I was only 90% sure it was the problem. If you ever get in this boat, spend the extra $30 and get the Duralast (or AC Delco) one. Regards
  14. just got a decent condition 1988 regal custom. 90k miles no rot minor rust when it's cold or first started it stalls when you hit the gas at idle. it will idle smooth and no CEL. when you go to accelerate it bogs and stalls or almost stalls then grabs. tried disconnecting MAF but it got worse and bucked during the driving range too. once it's warmed up after 5-10 minutes driving off idle is a very small hesitation but drives nice. oddly if I shut it off hot and restart it seems to reset the stall timer and you have to drive it a few minutes before it's ok again I got it for $400 and don't want to have a money pit.I have 4 other cars but i wanted a comfortable automatic American car
  15. I am now the owner of a 93 olds, white, white top, and ruby red interior. The car was for sale on eBay needing a transmission, windshield, and top had a split. Emailed the guy and got a buy it now price of $1000. So I bought it and drove out to ft smith, Arkansas on Saturday. Car is really clean. Just needs a lot of lil things. I will be posting a wanted list here shortly. Pictures will be posted tomorrow. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  16. Hey Everyone First, before anyone gets the wrong idea, no I am not planning to sell the site.. But I am looking for ideas, suggestions, input on where to go with the future of the site/forum. I realize that the actual w-body.com website content never really made the transfer over to the new CMS setup we moved to a few years ago.. and I apologize for that. I've never really had the time to dedicate to moving all that content and organizing it properly. This is something that I also never had the chance to train our staff on either. I think it's safe to say that I underestimated the actual work it was going to take to transfer to a new forum software. My vision would be to abandon the website and CMS, and just have W-body.com resolve directly to the forum home page. Content from the old site (which is still out there) could be transferred to the forum in a new organized format. But please list out what you would like to see the forum become in the future, and how it would be of more help to you while you're browsing or searching for information. In addition to your input on your future, I'd also like to find someone who is familiar with VB who would be willing to administer this site, keep it maintained and support our moderation staff. I've always been saying "I'll have time to get to it soon" or "I'll deal with it later" and I realize that's not the way to run a website, and it's not fair to those of you who contribute to it. I just simply don't have the free time to dedicate to this website anymore. This is why I'd like to see if someone here would like to become an assistant administrator and help take the work load off of my shoulders. If anyone is interested in this, please PM me and let me know some of your qualifications, and any other sites you've designed or administered. Experience in administering VBulletin 4 software and web design is a must! I know this is pretty informal, but being formal isn't my thing. In short, I want help getting this site back to what you deserve it to be, and to let everyone know that yes, I am still here lurking behind the scenes. Thank you everyone for your support over the years. Luke
  17. I just wanted to give a HUGE THANK YOU to everyone on the forum here that has helped me over the past few years that I have lurked around and sought help in keeping my 1994 Cutlass Supreme alive and running... and keeping it going as my daily driver for the last few years. This forum is a great resource, and I'm really glad that I found it when I acquired the Cutlass from my in-laws. I know you guys don't know me - but I'm just going to go on for a little bit here: I was fortunate enough to get Bessie (my Cutlass Supreme) from my in-laws at a time when my newer, low mileage car had a major engine disaster - they were kind enough to sell Bessie to me for $1 to get me through that tough time. I ended up holding onto the car for around 3 years. My sister was replacing her Jeep with a newer model - and she offered me her 2009 Patriot at a price that was too good to turn down... so it was time to pass Bessie along to another person who was going through a tough "car time". She had 194,500 miles when she was driven away by her new owner a few days ago - it was a sad moment because the car had been around since her parents bought it while my wife was in high school... but it was nice to know that she was going to a new owner that was going to benefit from all of the hard work I had done making her reliable again. Anyway - let me say it again: Thank you all for this great site and for sharing your knowledge!
  18. Hi, im new to the l67 (or any variation thereof). I got bored one day so I got on craigslist to see what I had to offer. i bought a totaled 2001 ssei Bonneville. not too much damage but the insurance company thought other wise. After searching the forums I wanted to come up with a 1 of a kind swap that would be easy and cheap to build, be unique, and be a sleeper. I found a 1998 vw beetle. then I got to measuring and cutting. sorry for some reason the pics are not in order. I cut the Pontiac at the firewall. then I cut the REAR floor pan and trunk floor. measured and notched the vw frame. I put the Pontiac subframe and unibody in place and started welding and plating. then I cut the rear deck out of the Pontiac and placed it over the engine in the rear of the car.
  19. Hey, guys. Sorry for the delay in planning the next meet. Been a crazy last couple months. I'm going to shoot for another meet in December, but I wanted to see how many people would be up for squeezing a quick Downers Grove Fuddrucker's meet in before that. Say November 1st? Date: Saturday, November 1st Time: 12 PM - ??? Location: Fuddrucker's (World's Greatest Hamburgers) 1500 Branding Lane Downers Grove, IL Description: Meet for local w-body.com members, but all are welcome to attend! This will be a smaller event to just hang out and eat with some fellow members & enthusiasts. More of a meet and greet type event. No need to bring anything except yourself, your car and some money for food. Attendees: RareGMFan (w-body.com, gpf.net) Euro (w-body.com, gpf.net) Cully77 (w-body.com)
  20. Sunday Rider

    Hello from Ontario

    Hi, Got a 1994 Pontiac Grand Prix SE, 3 years ago that only had 45,000 km on it. Was my Mom's car, none of the grandsons wanted it, so I took it. It has been a great car. I now have 152,000 km on it. Looking forward to explore the forum for this so far wonderful car.
  21. For those of us that don't have the option of installing a CS 144 without an engine swap this may be the next best thing. i just got of the phone with Brady, a tech with Powermaster Performance. He said they don't make a factory replacement, but offer two upgrades. The all new alternators are a direct replacement that use 1 internal and 1 external metal cooling fan (not a plastic fan like the factory CS 130). Option #1 p/n 7860 80amps @ 800rpm with factory pulleys, 105 amps Max - $149.97 at Summit Racing. Option #2 p/n 47460 95amps @ 800rpm w/ factory pulleys, 140 amps Max - $ 185.97 at Summit Racing. These may be cheaper elsewhere, I haven't checked yet, but wanted to post what I found. i will be replacing my alt. soon, hopefully before it fails, more than likely with option #2.
  22. This morning I took my Regal out. It's a 96 coupe with approx. 67K on it. A couple of miles from the house it started loosing power and stumbling. So I did a U turn and headed home. On the way home I noticed that it would act like it wanted to shift hesitate and not shift, then do it again, and again ,and again. It would finally shifted at approx. 5k. And took forever for it to get there. When I got home I pulled the plug wires off of the coilpacks and noticed the bottom tower on the second and third coil was really corroded badly. I cleaned them up the best I can and took it for another drive. It ran good for the first 1/4-1/2 mile. Then it started the same thing. I'm going to replace the coilpacks and wires. Is this the shifting problem also? Or is the shifting problem the big problem and I found the bad coils in the process? And they are two separate problems? Thanks
  23. Nas Escobar

    P1405 Code

    So a couple weeks ago, the engine in my 94 Cutlass has had a notable but small shake at idle, as if it wanted to turn off. It disappeared as I would accelerate. I checked the spark plugs and cables, and all seemed good, so my next step was to check the vacuum lines. I noticed the brake booster vacuum hose felt frail and would make a whistle every time I pressed the brakes. I naturally looked for a hose to replace the old one, and in between that was when the shake got worse. The last time I drove the car, the SES light turned on and triggered P1405 - EGR 3. That same day, I swapped the hose but it was after the fact that it turned on the SES light. So now I'm at a loss. I thought it had to do with that vacuum line but turns out while that fixed the whistle when I pressed the brakes, I'm still having a shake on the engine, as if it were a misfire. The weird part is that it stumbles when I floor it until 2500 rpm, then the engine revs easier but still feels a bit restricted. So I'm at a loss here since searching brings up nothing except for things for Ford, which interesting enough P1405 is a common issue on Ford EGR's and it usually ends up being a "DPFE SENSOR", but nothing comes up for that code for a GM car. So with that said, where should I look, or should I replace the EGR?
  24. I saw a 94 Cutlass convert and spoke to the owner who said he was moving and was going to sell his car. It was driven by a 16-yr-old son for quite awhile and was given NO care whatsoever. It was a bit shabby, but is a loaded car with only 37K miles!! So I bought it fairly cheap and have set about repairing things bit by bit. My first thing was to fix the driver's door ext handle, I wanted to disconnect the batt but couldn't figure out how to do that, so I dug out the battery, and found it was ancient, needing replacement, so I am in the process of doing that today. Still have not gotten the door apart! Whenever I clean something or adjust something it looks like new under all the dirt. I am pleased at the way it is responding to the attention, and I expect to have it looking great very soon. Now that I have access to this site I will have plenty of questions about odd things--this is a VERY different car than I am familiar with--I was a Mustang restorer for many years (65-66 mainly) and have much to learn about this car! Nothing translates!
  25. barricade9mm

    New guy from NYC

    Hey there, I own a 2002 Chevy Impala LS 3.8lt. This is my 3rd Impala...my 1st was a 2001 Impala police package...bought it at a poljce auction, was a good car but had electrical issues cause before they sold it they remove all the police equipment and in the process cut a bunch of wires and for about 2 yrs it was a pain. Got rid of it thinkin no more Impala for me after about a year ki da missed my impala ended up getting a 2000 chevy impala base model. Learned the car in and out. Had it for about 2 yrs and sold it. Thought I wanted something different. Boy was I wrong. About 1 yr later I decided I was gonna get me another impala but this one had to be the full package Impala so I got the 2002 Chevy Impala LS. Black,All leather, Power Sunroof, power heated seats, Spoiler, Onstar,etc. It has right now 195,000 miles and still purrs like a kitten with a mean bite..lol.
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