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There was a thread about a year ago on that topic, I remember it evolved into oil analysis after Schurkey mentioned having oil lab tested.

The XD-3 0W-30 that I specifically used was dual rated for gas and diesel engines, and as such, had extra additives to deal with potentially higher levels of acid particularly arising from the use of higher-sulfur diesel fuel. But the sulfur spec on the fuels has been tightened up in the past 10-15 years as well. Which is where most of the 'acid' comes from. In a nutshell, as long as the oil is kept at proper levels, and isn't contaminated by coolant, or fuel I've yet to hear of anyone killing a 3.1 or even a 3.4 due to bad oil. Heck, I drove a few thousand miles with coolant contamination until I could repair my LIM (just kept adding coolant, it was a slower leak) and that still didn't do anything major except creating a mess in the lifter valley and underneath the valve covers.

I would opt to get wheel bearings elsewhere from an actual known brand personally. You can get Moog, Timken, or SKF from Rockauto for around $50ish each. They currently have some Moog's that are on closeout from some location for $36.XX a piece with a 30 day warranty. Even though Moog has went to offshore manufacturing years ago, the wheel bearings still seem to be solid quality from what I've seen so far. I have one on a personal vehicle that's been right around 30,000 miles in the last two years for what it's worth. If your bearings aren't actually bad, I woudn't be changing them just to change them. It's not uncommon for wheel bearings to outlive the car on 1st Gens. Between two w-bodies with about 500,000 miles combined, I've only had to swap out one of the original wheel bearings so far.