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digitaloutsider

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Everything posted by digitaloutsider

  1. The Gen II 60 degrees (2.8/3.1 MPFI) aren't known to have "piston slap" like the Gen IIIs are. If it's knocking loudly, something is probably well fucked and no magical fluid is going to fix that. That being said, a video would be extremely useful.
  2. Are yours damaged? Replacing them isn't part of the shift kit guide. If you do, for some reason, need new ones: Accumulator cover = GM 24205584 $15 on RockAuto. I can't find a PN for the metal lines, they might be NLA and you'd be forced to source them from a scrap/junkyard transmission.
  3. Chris' Z34 is one of the only 1G W cars I've ever driven that feels as if it has an appropriate amount of braking power. As he alluded to before, the Euro 3.4 was sketchy on the best of days, and downright dangerous on the worst of them. I put many miles on that car, and no point would I have described the braking performance as being "sufficient". While they weren't Euro 3.4 bad, the brakes in my own '92 Z34 were less than stellar. Conversely, the brakes in my first car, a '90 GP LE, could be locked up on command. I know they could, because I used to think it was funny to do it. Both my '91 Cutlass and my '90 TGP had decent stopping power, but they were also PM3 cars and that came with it's own flavor of bullshit to contend with, which usually ends in my suggestion to rip it out of the car. Between the GXP brakes on the Regal (best upgrade for the 2G cars, hands down) and those on the C5, I'm spoiled. Every time I get into an early 90s GM product, I'm shocked by how terrible the braking performance is.
  4. I don't recall seeing a Keyless Entry flag the last time I was setting body features with the Tech II. I'd wager to bet it would "just work" once the fobs are programmed. @Amanita there were extremely base Grand Prixs. They axed the option later on, but you could absolutely get column-shifted 2G GPs. Later in the Regals life, even ABS became optional. I imagine the GP probably followed that same suit where previously standard features became optional.
  5. Welcome! Glad to have you.
  6. Hey there, and welcome. If there is no AU0 on the RPO sticker, there is probably no factory keyless entry. On the second gen cars, the RKE box is normally located to the right of the instrument cluster (GP) or behind it (Regal). The car is probably prewired for it, so you may see a loose harness back there. I'd guess you could probably just go find an 01-03 GP (2001 changed the keyless entry fobs) with RKE and install the module if you're prewired.
  7. There are probably a few minor differences somewhere, I want to say something like the later engine will have an extra cam/crank sensor (can't remember at this point), but it shouldn't be an issue. What isn't the same, you can just move over from the old engine.
  8. Those will work. How low do you want it? If you want to not sacrifice ride completely, Vogtland also makes springs that are compatible. The issue with the 04-08 GPs is the lack of a decent strut to pair with them, IMO. If you really want to spend money and have a great deal of customization, BC Coilovers are also available.
  9. Also, I am such a fucking idiot, I'm sorry. I had Cutlass Calais in my head. The Ciera is an A-body; they still have a somewhat active community over at A-body.net.
  10. I think there used to be an N-body forum somewhere. I guess I forgot that much like these cars, no one really cares about them anymore. You're welcome to hang out here and ask these sorts of questions, but things move pretty slowly over here. Also check out the www.60degreev6.com forums.
  11. A Ciera is technically an N-body, but the 3100 is generic enough. Being that the coolant is low, I'd look at the engine oil. See if it looks like a milkshake. If it does, the loud clattering could very well be indicative of a spun bearing.
  12. At the very least, I'd argue there is a pretty substantial difference in driving excitement between a wheezy automatic iron duke or LH0 and a 180 HP HO Quad 4. You are correct that until the LD9 there were no balance shafts. At this point, I'm willing to take the tradeoff between the "run it on no oil for 5 years of it's life and nothing will go wrong" reliability of a 3.1 and the "sure, the headgaskets pop every 36,000 miles, but at least it's fun while it lasts" nature of the HO Quad 4. The LG0/282 combination remains the one oddball 1G W-car I want to own but haven't.
  13. I'm very tempted to go pick that up. However, the fact that the engine was "replaced" gives me pause. If it was a 72k engine in a 72k mile car, that price is a no-brainer. However, there's a nearly 0% chance he found another similarly low mileage engine to put into it. I guess there's a chance it was rebuilt, but the ad says "replaced motor".
  14. KYB does not make a "Strut-plus" assembly for the W cars. Moog and Monroe both do. The Bilsteins are expensive, yes. Unfortunately there isn't much in the way of great options for strut sets for the third gen cars due to the sway bar setup in the front. I would THINK that any 2G GP (97-03) rear strut would work since nothing really changed back there, but the manufacturers seem to separate it by 17-18" wheels and not. As for what that difference is, I have no idea.
  15. I don't know if you'e one ahead and done this, but it's very easy. Remove the driver's side kneeboard, two 7mm bolts hold the radio bezel up against the dashboard. Look up from the bottom and you'll see them. Open the glovebox door and swing it down (wiggle the glovebox door support arms and it will come loose) and there are two 7mms up there too. I don't remember it being clipped in at all.
  16. A 3.1 MPFI really shouldn't have headgasket issues, but I've, on rare occasions, seen intake manifold gasket failures. Nothing compared to the 3x00s though. It's dog shit slow. Transmission is generally fine. Don't buy one from the North because it's probably a rustbucket. Not particularly safe, but none of the W cars are. Other than that, they're fine.
  17. Once the clear starts failing, there's not much else you can do.
  18. The OBD-II calibrations have a table to control this, I assume the old ones do too. However, I'd like to think there's a compelling reason why every calibration I've seen from every car manufacturer disables the compressor at WOT. It should NOT be blowing your compressor fuse. You have something else wrong there. The air also shouldn't smell musty or weird, you probably have some buildup on the evaporator core.
  19. I'm late, but welcome back!
  20. Wow a lot about the HVAC system changed on the later W cars. Those actuators are much different from the earlier ones. Aside from some electrical fault, there aren't many other things that can cause this failure aside from a bad blend door actuator.
  21. Well considering there was no 88-89 Lumina, that isn't shocking
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