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LMAO, I meant to post this on another forum discussing old lawnmowers! They dont know what I`m talking about over there either.

Has anyone used one of these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/404754218886?epid=169594596&itmmeta=01HXN86SDHPDG0QC354JY4A2JH&hash=item5e3d3b3f86:g:hNcAAOSwLX9lx9Ja&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwB1bYArsSNNQTeXRP0konEpGR207mbIaDI8geL2Bbyet%2Fp16sFpjEYFKKUSMthFDxpvVSOoL2cL03Gpo2fAz5ukJfFaqnLMZH4YY6450FiMDkVSnE0jReCnJkhYvk8UBp8b%2Bw7lP6O14KDnrKwhIvt%2BK7qUTQqfdkSEceFgYt3aDMIF4KoBo3jA03sEMv%2BxnCLiZq076jyHBWct%2FD1ZeaAzgU%2BBWE1HmQ3OHD00iYIP5bZgT4H4Lb8SSCaI6x6MAYQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-yWm6jtYw

What is the fuel pressure? How old are the usual "tune-up" items--plug wires, spark plugs, O2 sensor, verify PCV, EGR, and EVAP systems. Check cranking compression pressure. How old is the timing belt? Connect a scan tool, verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Check fuel trims. O2 sensors get lazy with age. If the O2 sensor has more than 50,000 miles or 5 years on it, it's probably due for replacement. If there's a misfiring cylinder, it can drive the O2 sensor to report a false-lean condition. That will drive the computer into rich-command. Expect that the rich running has murdered the catalyst.

Which gasket are you referring too? The ones that match up to the exhaust manifolds or headers?

Welcome to the forum! First things first, get that crossover replaced, that will cause all kinds of running issues with it. Exhaust leaks wreck how these cars run. A point of advise, probably not relevant at the moment but I seem to remember decreasing the spark plug gap from whatever the factory recommends to help with some other running issues. There is only one person i'm aware of who repairs those at this point. Forum member GOT2BGM aka Matt Shantz he's not on the forum much these days I'm sure he's active on the various facebook w body groups but regardless i'll shoot him a message to drop by the forum.

Its enough work that you may as well just buy an LS4 car and call it a day. Unless you have access to the entire parts car its probably not worth the cost and trouble. And even then with the 4t65e they bolted to the LS4 its not a matter of if but when it gets demolished and needs a rebuild.

Not a swap for the faint-of-heart.

I've done it both ways. Doing a factory vacuum swap is a gigantic pain, but possible if you want to pull the dashboard apart and most of the engine bay. It also comes with issues of its own. the factory non ABS master is at a different angle to PMIII and comes VERY close to the turbo. I've thought about this and in my junkyard trips it looks like J and N cars of the era used the same master but angled up slightly, that may help the issue of it being close to the Turbo but it may also bring its own set of issues. never done it but its been on the back of my mind. Also you'll need to run 2 new rear brake lines. making absolutely sure to not get them backwards since you'll no longer be running a Front-Rear Split setup but a Cross- diagonal so the Front left needs to be on the same side of the master as right rear and front right needs to be on the same side as left rear. You can't get away with just one as the factory rear brake line is 1/4" or something like that and standard are much smaller. What I did on my Red Turbo GP was remove everything PMIII off the firewall and use a 4th gen F body booster and master. It has the advantage of also being Front rear split so you don't have to mess with the brake lines to the rear of the car and it can be done in a day or 2, not weeks. What I did, and I know others have done it differently I made an adapter plate of aluminum to bolt to the factory bolts then put my own holes in for the F body booster. You DO have to cut holes in your factory firewall plate for this. and in the future i'd do it a bit different and cut most of it away so I could access the booster bolts easily from the inside of the car I did have to cut and extend the pushrod from the booster so it was the same length as PMIII Was. Just cut and welded that. I considered threading the rod and putting a turnbuckle on it to get it proper. Now the fun part is the brake lines. Since we live in america getting metric fittings is a bigger pain then it should be. I changed everything to 1/4 fittings, took the front brake lines and put them into a t fitting, and then made a brake line to go from that to the master. For the rear I also changed the fittings to SAE but then put it into a reducer to get the size of the line down to fit into the master, again just made and extension tube to get it how it needed to be. Not the cleanest part of the install but it does work quite well. If I ever get around to working on TGPs again i'll be doing this same modification to my Black TGP as I fully believe PMIII is not fit for purpose at this point. I'll revisit the modification at that time and fine tune it then.