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White93z34

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Everything posted by White93z34

  1. You can't throw around the word NOS and not have me be interested.
  2. So I pulled out my Pontiac parts manual... I only have Lumina and Grand Prix but that crap is all the same, it looks like all automatic transmissions got that bracket on the subframe, 3 speed and both the 4t60 / E got it. so that rules that out. What is the transmission bracket on the trans from?
  3. A few thoughts: your car or the donor car, were they ever wrecked? are you purchasing mounts for a 98' Lumina since that would be technically the closest match, no I didn't do wherever research is necessary to look at the interhcange You mentioned that you had a 3t40 3 speed before this.... since that is the most unusual component in the mix since most people go from 4t60 or 4t60e to 4t65 is it possible that the transmission mount bracket that is bolted to your subframe is offset different from what we are expecting? I'm just spitballing here since I don't have my parts manual on hand that would tell me definitively if that part is specific to the 3 speed cars or not. I don't think that regal mount will be of any use to you I think the L27 mounted completely different then the L36 W bodies did later on. i'm thinking it ultimately is 2 issues, wrong mounts, as both the LH0 and L67 mounts may be wrong, see my comment about buying ones for a 1G that did come with a L36, and I have a feeling that the mount for the 3 speed cars might be shifted to accommodate mounting for that. If I remember I'll get out a parts manual and check tonight.
  4. White93z34

    Why not Quad 4

    I think it largely boiled down to that the average consumer buying a midsize car in the early 90's found they could get a V6 for the price of a I4 with similar mileage and economy. The economics just didn't make sense. And then as now a stick shift for the Q4 with more power was a difficult sell. I'd wager that stick shifts made up less the 5% of total W cars when it was even a choice between 88-93. Again, I think its just the mentality, if you were looking at a Japanese car you didn't have much choice, but I just feel the average consumer buying one new wanted a V6. Granted the Q4 went on to much more success in smaller, cheaper cars.
  5. I seem to remember it being a relatively common complaint of the CS130 is lack of low rpm output, but I'd think it should be greater then 0. Though the issue now is all the already marginal parts that came from the factory 25 years ago have been further "value engineered" to be even worse then new.
  6. Literally nothing, same same. same year same parts same everything. the Euro just always had extremely poor performing brakes no matter what I did. I never understood it. I changed so much stuff around. At the end of the day I can only assume that I had just got a defective reman for the Euro 3.4... can't remember where I got it at this point, we sold the car years back now.
  7. I will qualify it with this: I did the booster replace on my Z34 and old Euro 3.4 The z34 worked out way better. even with a reman booster on the old Euro 3.4 the brakes could be called hopeless at best. Perhaps I got a bad one. now on my z34 they were and still are much improved. I'm interested to see what you do with caliper/brake upgrades. I currently have the 94+ rears and 96+ fronts which is an improvement over original but I'm always open to better.
  8. Interesting, for ages I've just assumed it was a drop in replacement. I, personally found Schurkey's article informative and just put in a reman original booster in my car as I had no other choice since I have a manual transmission and need the smaller booster to clear the clutch master. I seem to remember some time back some guys putting 2g boosters on first gens, they are deeper but not much wider. Regardless, good work and good information.
  9. White93z34

    Why not Quad 4

    oh man that thing is beautiful. a Q5 HO car like that is the one remaining w body unicorn on my list
  10. I probably do, let me know It will take me awhile to get to tough. Debating getting a few pictures when I go to check the cars out soon, then I'll probably list the lot on craigslist.
  11. Bump, I'm willing to work with price.
  12. Long story short the factory RKE boxes have poor solder joints, the 89-91ish stuff is particularly bad.
  13. I saw a new post here and thought, so yeah that would be coming up. Sorry guys. I know I'm usually one of the people making this happen. Life is in the way big time. Little kid makes a complete rearrangement of priorities. In the interest of doing something I'll work with whoever for a fall meet (or even a late summer meet) or something close-ish (2 hours) of me. But unlike years past where this was one of the singular events I anticipated I just don't have the availability that I used to.
  14. either/or, more trailer is more better, obviously
  15. I figure I'll do this and see if I get any interest at all. Can get pictures for serious parties. The biggest stuff: 1990 TGP: Red, Tan Leather, Sunroof, bad paint. Runs, drives, is rough, its been wrecked and repaired a few times before, ~150k miles, engine has 30k less, approximately. Kenny K crossover, rebuilt IP, 96+ brakes all around, Vacuum Brake conversion 1990 TGP Black, Gray Cloth, no sunroof, bad paint, needs a engine, Tires, Been off the road since 2011. ~110k miles, Jeff M Crossover Will need towed. Not driveable at all. Allegedly rebuilt LG5, on a engine stand, got this for the Black car, have yet to get around to it. I never ran it before. so may want to get someone to go through it first. Boxes and boxes of parts, Body kits, Core radiators, maybe a core 4t60hd, 96+ knuckles more things then I reasonably remember even owning at this point. You get ALL of it, I am not looking to sell it off in pieces. I want all of this gone as a package deal Long term my plans were to part the red car out for the Black one but ultimately the red one does what its supposed to do. Asking $3000 obo for everything, bring a enclosed trailer, bring a car trailer, there is a lot of crap here. No I'm not going to go attic surfing for pictures of every last part. IF you are serious I can get pictures. If not I'll probably eventually build the Black car, just life is in the way right now and I don't have the time to deal with these.
  16. There is something different about the 2003+ 4t65s then the prior ones, I don't know what but I know something is incompatible.
  17. I'd call that properly ruined!
  18. If you'll notice the box has a date of 2009, its been on a shelf for awhile! The oil leak, is likely from the oil pump shaft on the other side of the engine. No better time then to just pull the lower intake while you are there. Its a bastard of a job, and can't be done properly without removing the rear cylinder head, plenty of other ways to go about it though.
  19. You *should* be good. It's technically non interference, but its not completely unheard of to bend valves. If it was a low-mid RPM you are probably good. I had the same thing happen ages ago and I was fine. I've done this job many times now, its not as bad as it seems but it is rather time consuming. For a 93 you will NEED, at minimum: Valve cover gasket set, intake gasket set, Timing belt, all 3 idler pulleys. You'll need at minimum tool wise the cam sprocket removal tool, the cam cog holder tool and either the cam hold down tools or some flat stock with a hole drilled in it to lock the cams in position. Now the kick in the nuts. The actual timing belt tensioner actuator is getting difficult to find now. It's a GM dealer item only and I don't know if its still in production. If the spring inside that broke you'll need a new one. If its still good it can be reused. You'll discover that in the teardown, I'm sure. Make sure to refill it with oil when you have it retracted and to replace the rubber plug. If you search through my posts I think I've covered it or semi covered it 2-3 times. The first time I did it I think I used a writeup from 60degreev6.com and the factory manual There's probably another 5 pages I could write on it, but let me know what you have questions about after doing some reading.
  20. I think as a whole you are fine with the VATS issue. My understanding is that it won't start at all with it being unhappy. Maybe peruse the oil pressure issue, If It were me troubleshooting that I'd pull up the manual for a 04' Impala via ESI or whatever resource you have at your disposal. And find the flowcharts for your issue/ oil pressure sending unit. Find what the normal operation looks like.... I'd imagine if you grounded that sensor it would be either normal or abnormal operation since its just a switch.... which if it is I don't know. Looking at it again, it looks like the 04' PCM expects way more 5v reference then whats its being provided. those run the MAP, and various other sensors. With that PCM in verify 5v reference at the various sensors, MAP, TPS, IAC
  21. Is that actually the case on those PCMs? I don't think it is, but it could be. Any codes being logged?
  22. What car/year is your engine harness from?
  23. are you able to verify what the coolant temp sensor is reading?
  24. Buy my whole car, get some nice tan cloth seats.
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