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Everything posted by Schurkey

  1. Excess pad wear isn't likely from small rotors unless you're making a habit of flying down hill on mountain roads, or racing. It's probably from sticking calipers. It might be from rotors with a poor surface finish. Could be CHEAP PADS. Maybe a hydraulic problem, where the fluid can't return to the master cylinder reservoir so the pads are held against the rotor. I've never had '96-style calipers apart. I've pulled '92--'93 calipers apart. They've got a bad reputation, but I think the "real" problem with them is lack of using the park brake. Unfortunately, my '98 Monte Carlo is drum rear. It's amazing how much GM de-contented the W from first-gen to second-gen.
  2. Passenger side of rad, somewhere below the rad cap.
  3. And then there's corrupt Government dirtbags that provided tax-funded giveaways to people who scrapped and destroyed older vehicles. Once the waterglass went through the bearings and lifters, there was essentially nothing salvageable from the engine; and there's only so much market for interior or chassis parts when millions of vehicle get scrapped at once. In other words, "crushed and sent to China". Bastards.
  4. My Lumina did that for awhile. I think there's floaty crap in the coolant that somehow fools the sensor. When it washes out, the sensor works properly again. This is not proven, just a theory. I had an intermittent light for six months or a year, and it magically healed. I may have flushed the coolant in that time. Or maybe the bulb burned out. Pop the sensor out, run it under hot water, shake the fukk out of it, and see what happens.
  5. An elderly O2 sensor can set a false "rich" code. I fought with that for two years, on and off, on my '88 K1500. Found nothing wrong...until, in desperation, I ripped out the O2 sensor and stuffed a new one in place. Instantly fixed the "Code 45 only at highway speed" problem I'd been having..
  6. "Normal" hasn't looked like that around here for decades. Around here, unleaded gasoline burns so clean it takes thousands and thousands of miles to put color on the plugs. I'd expect them to look virgin-white (at least the three new ones.) What kind of shop puts three spark plugs into a six-cylinder car? Were they the rear-bank plugs and someone already replaced the fronts? PUT A SCAN TOOL ON THIS CAR. Look at the data stream. And does Code 45 come back when it's cleared? Did you ever bother to follow the diagnostic procedure for Code 45?
  7. What is the fuel pressure just before the engine stalls? What is the cranking compression pressure of all six? Connect a scan tool, look at the data stream. Short- and long-term fuel trims, engine coolant temperature, O2 sensor readings and cross-counts, EGR operation, MAP sensor values, and all the other sensors/actuators. Have you followed the diagnostic procedure for the Code 45, or are we just ignoring it?
  8. Are you swapping engines, or transmissions?
  9. Schurkey


    ...and I take crap from folks because I top-off as needed, change the filter at 13K, and then change oil and filter at 26K on my Trailblazer.
  10. Wild Guess: Your subframe has engine/transmission mounting holes in different locations than the donor-car's subframe.
  11. Turn signals are slow but ALL THE LIGHTS WORK? Possibly the wrong flasher. Standard-duty flashers are rated by the number of bulbs they activate. You may have a flasher that's intended to drive more turn signal bulbs than the car has, Hazzard lights don't work in front, and don't light up the dash indicators? Need a wiring diagram to track that down.
  12. START with a six-point socket instead of your 12-point. (Wild guess: There's a lesson to be learned here.) (Second Wild Guess: The bolts have corroded to the casting, you're gonna need heat, and you'll be lucky if the aluminum is saveable.) I've removed lug nuts with those so-called "Turbo" sockets. They're tapered inside, with a "reverse-thread" machining that tends to pull the damaged fastener in, and wedge it as you turn the socket to loosen the fastener. The ones I have are specifically for lug nuts. SK sells some intended for general purpose.
  13. Schurkey

    Scanner Help

    WHICH "scanner"? As said, if you're calling it a "Scanner", you must be talking about a Snap-On product.
  14. Schurkey

    Scanner Help

    The Tech 2 is--or at least was--the "official" GM scan tool. By now, it may have been replaced by the Tech 3. Or Tech 4. The market is completely flooded by Communist knockoffs of the Tech 2. If the Federal Trade Commission was functional, they'd seize containerloads of them at the docks. Good luck getting a "real" one. The counterfeits even have the appropriate brand-name decals, so I've heard it's hard to tell what's genuine and what's fake. When it was me--and this was a long time ago--I bought a Snap-On MTG2500. Extremely similar to the MT2500 which cost less and is way more popular. The '2500s are both obsolete and no longer supported by Snappy; the newest software is 2009--but I've never seen software cartridges that new for sale. Mine goes to 2006, Domestic and Asian, and with a second cartridge, back to 1980 1/2 domestic only. There is some bi-directional control but I don't think it'll reprogram an onboard computer. You might do better with a Snap-On Solus, Solus Pro, Solus Ultra, or whatever the current version is. They're "nicer" and certainly newer than the '2500s. I suspect I'll have to upgrade from my '2500 to one of the newer Snap-On scanners. ("Scanner" is a trademark of Snap-on, the more generic term is "Scan tool".
  15. I have named this knock "Earl". As the song says, "Earl's gotta die." Pull both valve covers, look for broken valve springs, damaged rockers, bent pushrods. Might want to see if there's an exhaust leak at the manifold--loose bolts, cracked, etc. while you're in there. Connect a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum. Ground the wire of a 12-volt test light. Slide the pointy end of the test light between the plug wire and the rubber boot--DON'T DAMAGE THE WIRE (a dab of silicone grease on the test light probe helps.) This will short out the spark while causing no damage to anything (if you're quick about it. Short the spark too long, and you'll overheat the catalyst.) See if the knock changes pitch as each cylinder is shorted out in turn. Watch the vacuum gauge--each cylinder should drop the vacuum the same amount. Cylinders that DON'T drop the vacuum when the spark is shorted are weak or dead. Cranking compression test: If all cylinders are NOT within 15% of each other, perform a cylinder leakdown test on the two lowest-pressure and the highest-pressure cylinders.
  16. Define "rare". If this was a Ferrari, it'd be common as dirt. For a Chevrolet, yeah, I guess they're "rare". I have a '92 and a '93. The '93 was a "parts car" for the crumpled fenders and hood and bumper of the '92. When I got done swapping body parts, I turned the '92 creased fenders upside-down in my back yard, and literally jumped up and down on the creases until I could bolt them onto the '93 body. Put about 60K miles on that car before the head gasket popped, and--apparently--I destroyed the transmission when I towed the car home. Engine runs great with new head gaskets and the camshaft oiling modification, but the car won't move. Nothing but neutrals. The '92 now needs head gaskets and probably a crank sensor. Won't start. Hasn't run in years. Was going to take care of that last summer, but the Plow Truck took priority. There always seems to be two projects ahead of the Luminas, so I never get to them. Maybe someday. It's an even-money bet that the vacuum brake booster has failed on your car. Both of mine needed boosters years ago. 90% of the complaints about "poor braking" seem to be the fault of the booster...yet guys will replace calipers and pads and buy "drilled and slotted" rotors, 1995-newer struts with bigger-diameter rotors, and waste all sorts of money on everything except the booster.
  17. First Guess: Tank vent is messed-up. Best bet is to get a REAL service manual and then follow the diagnostic procedure for that code.
  18. Subscribed. This isn't something I've heard of before. "I" would test for ripple, regulated voltage, full-field voltage and current. I'd assure less than 1/4 volt of voltage drop between alternator + and battery +. Also 1/4 volt or less of voltage drop on the ground side--battery - to alternator case or ground lug. As a last resort, I'd replace the entire alternator (or at least the voltage regulator.)
  19. Good to know. Thank you. Monte is a 3100. There was no way on Earth I'd get at the O2 sensors from the top on my first-gen Lumina Euro 3.4s, the intake manifold goes back almost to the firewall, and up til now, those are the only W-bodies I've needed to change the O2 sensors on.
  20. Penetrating oil does nothing useful on O2 sensors. The sensor is sealed with a gasket to the pipe or manifold, the seal is gas-tight. Liquid penetrating oil has no way to get into the threads to do any good. You're right about typical O2 sensor tools. I have a Snap-On "SWR2" O2 wrench for use with 3/8 ratchet or breaker bar. It works--usually--but it really needs to be more rigid, and it should be 1/2 drive not 3/8. It will flex and round-off the wrenching surface of an O2 sensor if it's really stuck. Years ago, I bought a cheap, Made-In-USA Craftsman 7/8 combo wrench in 6-point. I heated and bent the box-end. IF (big IF) there's clearance to use it, this works really well. Too often, there's no clearance. And sometimes the wire harness has to be clipped off, because the connector body won't pass through the box end. I bought a socket yesterday. I'm hoping to remove the sensor from the top, without crawling underneath to remove the exhaust down-tube. I don't know if that'll work, I'm too busy dicking with my '97 K2500 at the moment. Until I get the pickup running and reliable, I don't want to cripple the Monte. The socket I bought is a WRIGHT-brand 7/8 deepwell impact, in 1/2" drive. The Wright impact socket is deeply broached--all the way to the 1/2" square drive end--so an O2 sensor body fits inside it. It has thick-wall construction because it's an impact socket. I have a Snap-On deepwell, but it has a shallow broach. I looked at SK sockets, too--they're also shallow-broach. Shallow broaching makes the socket stronger, but the body of an O2 sensor won't fit inside. Wright is a well-respected USA manufacturer of hand tools, primarily serving the Industrial market--but their wrenches and sockets work on automotive applications too. Yes, the wire harness has to be cut off right at the sensor body to fit inside the socket. (So once you start this job, you're committed to finishing it!) I bought the socket locally, but here's a link to the Amazon product page. [Edit] I looked through the Williams and the Proto tool catalogs available on-line. Seems the Proto J7328H and the Williams 14-628 are also shallow-broach impact deep sockets, fine for regular use but not usable as an O2 sensor socket. Proto is a sister company to Mac Tools (both owned by Stanley) and Williams is a Snap-On Industrial brand. Those brands are all I know of non-Tool Truck, Made-In-USA tool companies. The Wright 4928 is "it". [/Edit]
  21. Newest issues: Monte wouldn't start when I came out from visiting Mom-in-Law. Wouldn't crank--just clicked. I immediately realized that I've had the car for four years and never put a battery in it. Dear Old Dad never said anything to me about a battery when he was around. I yanked it out, the date sticker on the side is saying it was made in 2010. I put a new $160 NAPA battery in, and checked voltage. So far, so good. I obviously need to do a complete starting/charging power-team test soon. Since I was dicking with the electrical system, I connected a scan tool "just for giggles". The O2 sensor is showing single-digits for crosscounts: 0 to 7 is most common. The engine still runs good, but clearly the sensor is probably original and lazy. It's gotta go. I just finished ripping four O2 sensors from my '97 K2500. Three of them needed an Oxy-acetylene torch to get them to turn, and they all damaged the threads in the pipe. I had to restore the threads before I could screw new sensors back in. Not looking forward to that job on Monte. The primary O2 sensor is kinda buried up by the engine, it'll be a mess trying to get the torch in there without burning the car down. I didn't have too bad a time with the sensors on my first-gen Luminas, but they weren't nearly this old at the time.
  22. That's my nomination for the longest, single-sentence post on this forum. I did a quick count, you've got thirteen commas and one end-of-sentence period. (Other periods are for abbreviations.) Around here, they start teaching sentence structure in third grade. "I" would bite the bullet and go with dual fans. Considering what you've spent so far, a Treasure Yard dual-fan system from another W-body should be easy enough.
  23. CarQuest reconditioned. P/N 54-71286; $142.03 plus sales tax. That price includes the $12.86 core charge. (Price was from 2007) That part number on the Advance web site is actually a few dollars less expensive now, supposedly a Cardone reman with "lifetime" warranty. Most of these gory details are in the thread I started "way back when", and linked-to in post #2 of this thread
  24. As I said in my original post from years and years ago--I don't think it's the "brakes" that are so bad, but there's a huge number of faulty vacuum boosters. I used to think that a booster either worked or didn't, but I've come to believe that they can produce "less" assist on a sliding scale--some are extremely bad, some are only mildly bad. For me, slapping in rebuilt boosters made ALL the difference with the '92, and substantial difference on the '93. I didn't feel any need for larger-diameter rotors, bigger calipers, etc. on the '92. I did install Performance Friction "Carbon Metallic" brake pads, and have been buying them for all my other vehicles as well.
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