Leaderboard

Which Oil is better for the application (not weather releated) I just read article about motor oils on http://www.60degreev6.com It says that 10W30 Oils are much better than 5W30 for the car engines

Was the Cutlass Supreme Convertible available in a 5-speed? I heard that it was and I also heard that it wasn't. I'd just like to verify that it was. If so, that'd be a pretty sweet ride. BTW: Did all Cutlass Supreme Convertible come with the 3.4 Twin Cam?

Remember the Photobucket disaster several years back? Imgur is getting ready to do the same thing next month https://help.imgur.com/hc/en-us/articles/14415587638029 their new rules seem concerned primarily with pornography however this part concerns me: Further Reading: https://www.theautopian.com/imgur-deleting-old-photos/ So needless to say, if you have relied on Imgur to host pictures for forums you would be wise to back them up as soon as possible Thanks!

I'm probably going to keep the details short, and the pictures aplenty. As much as I hate to do it, I'm going to hackjob fix the TSTE. Right now, the camshaft in it is trash. I'm going to remove it, clean the hell out of the inside of the motor, reuse my lifters and pushrods, and, yep, you guessed it: use the 139k camshaft out of the TGP. Yes, this is a terrible idea. Only things I'm going to replace on the TSTE are the timing chain and sprockets, and any gaskets/o-rings I can while I'm in there. This only has to last me until like next summer. Hopefully it'll be getting a top end swap at that point, along with the Getrag swap. Of course, it'll get a new cam, pushrods and lifters at that point. I might go as far as to replace the rings too, which wouldn't be a bad idea on this 155k motor. Pics, day 1: it's cold in the garage I didn't have one of those balanced pulley removers readily available, so I grabbed the next best thing. A 10 pound sledge.

Please post any problems you encounter with the forum software in this thread so I can be aware of them. Also, please know that I am working on some back end settings on the forum yet, and we may experience some random downtimes over the next few days. Thanks for your patience over the course of this upgrade!

Most of my pics are hosted from Imgur, I visit often but will back up just in case. Appreciate the heads up.

Love that you linked The Autopian! But yes, it's going to be another mass exodus of forum photos missing. In the comment section of that article there is a link for a site: http://www.diyauto.com/ That looks like it could be useful as well.

I would have given you the heart and blown a kiss if Luke haden't changed it, but you got a "thumbsup"

Good heavens...

YAY! Thanks Luke! No more awkward blowing kisses, the "thumbsup" is much more comfortable.

Not that I'm a rampant homophobic or anything but at some point after we land on our feet would it be possible to change the "Heart" to something like a "ThumbsUp" when we like content?

so I didn't do it. but I have the brackets made that I needed for the getrag swap. I decided there are a couple of odds and ends I want to finish up before dropping it it just because it'll make it easier. but it's ready to go in. it won't be driveable for some time still though.

i think you're best off with matching engines.

thats cause it's twice the W goodness sorry, it is really long...and i kept it to the minimum...you should see the detailed version

wow that is a long post....I think I will wait until tomorrow to read it

Hmmm, mom's 1990 3800 in her H-body spec's 5W30. My 1992 3.1 spec's 5W30. Any xW-30 oil will have the same properties at high temperature, so manitcor is absolutely right -- it has everything to do with winter starts. Interestingly, a machinist from a local engine rebuilder shop told me over lunch yesterday that in cold climates, synthetic is absolutely imperative for survival of the 3.1L engines over the long term, as he claims that the piston slap problems on these engines largely originate from cold-weather operation with oil that is far too viscous for the engine. I guess, just a theory of a machinst at an engine rebuilding shop (getting him to work on my 1956 Bel-Air's engine soon), but it does sound reasonable.

The '0W' part of '0W30' refers to its SAE viscosity rating with respect to cold starts, while the '30' part refers to its kinematic viscosity while hot at operating temperature. Generally speaking, a 0W30 oil gives you the best of both worlds; the properties of a SAE 30 weight motor oil at engine operating temperatures, as well as fluidity at temperatures of -50C. Many modern 0W30 oils, for example, Esso XD-3 0W30, and made-in-Germany Castrol 0W30 are engineered to actually have significantly better high-temperature properties while retaining their low-temperature properties. Esso XD-3 0W30, for example, has superior high temperature properties to a conventional 10W30 oil, while remaining pour-able down to -50C. They achieve this behaviour through the use of higher-quality fluids. Your fuel economy will not improve with this oil on the highway, all-warmed-up, however, the engine will start much better in the cold and burn substantially less fuel while warming up, thus saving fuel. For anyone in Canada, or in the Northern United States, I whole-heartedely recommend the use of quality synthetic 0W30 oils. For southerners, its unnecessary and a 10W30 grade of Mobil1, Amsoil, or pretty much anything will show equal results.

I used 5W30 up to 190k on my 89 Cutlass and never had a problem. For the past 2 years I've been using 10W30 in the summer and 5W30 in the winter. Still no problems. The manual states 10W30 is fine in the summer, so that's what I'd use. The reason 10W30 is better: Less viscosity improvers. The base oil viscosity of 5W30 is 5, of 10W30 is 10. It just takes more viscosity improvers to make 5W effective as a 30-weight. Either way, it's no big deal. However, 10W30 is not recommended in climates that go below 0-degrees so if you're expecting some negative temperatures, stick to 5W30.

My cap says to use 10-30 but I dont have a Dohc, I would say 5-30 in the winter and if you also read your manual it should state for summer 10-30 is fine. and it also askes what type of driving you do....atleast every GM owners manual I have Read says that except mine it states only 10-30 because of the turbo...

The Convrts. did not come with a 5 speed.

My account was deleted a few days ago, still waiting for a reply as to why.