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That's what the mechanic said. It was a very easy fix because everything was relatively easy to access. I have no idea about special tools; I just knew that repair was above my pay grade.

How many special tools have you had to aquire? I bought a Kent-Moore GM 3.4 DOHC tool kit off of EBay years ago, but haven't looked in a while to see what is available anymore.

I'm probably alone in this but I feel the LQ1 isn't that hard to work on. Granted, they do require special tools but like anything mechanical, the right tools for the job helps tremendously. The water pump is very easy to get at in particular. Right there out in the open.

So, a few weeks ago, I was driving my '95 Cutlass Supreme convertible over to a friend's house, and the car started running a little hot, not overheating, but hotter than I was comfortable with. When I got back home, I looked under the hood, the overflow jug was empty and things were quite wet down by the water pump. It was right at the end of the spring semester, so I just didn't have time to mess with it, beyond pouring in a gallon of antifreeze until today, when I sent it over to my mechanic's shop, and amazingly, he had a water pump for it sitting on the shelf, had the whole thing done in less than four hours. That just never happens. Even better, it was a comparatively inexpensive repair. He was a little afraid there might have been head gasket damage, but everything checked out okay in the end. The best part was the repair was a bit less expensive than I expected. He ballparked it at around $280-$400, and it came in at $281 and change. I'm stoked that I don't have to miss anymore prime convertible weather.

that’s totally fair. And I totally get the desire and challenge and that being worth it alone!! Not sure I’ll tackle it but I think it’s awesome it can be done and with the 5 speed too!

An "OBD2 scanner" doesn't work on a '95, because '95 is not OBD2. Therefore, you'd need a scan tool compatible with what is now known as "OBD1". They tend to be more expensive, and need a different adapter/connector for every brand of vehicle since there's dozens of proprietary connector bodies on the vehicles. Every manufacturer used a different style of connnector. GM alone had several depending on application. A decent scan tool will work with GM products from 1980 1/2, onward to the limit of their software--often post-2000, perhaps all the way to 2024. Mine goes up to 2007, but since I don't own a vehicle newer than 2003, I'm all set.

EXACTLY the same way you'd connect to any other vehicle with a diagnostic connector. '95 is no different in that regard. Find a compatible scan tool, use the correct adapter, connect it to the diagnostic connector. You may need to supply "12 volt" power to the scan tool via a cigarette-lighter power adapter or similar. Follow the instructions for the scan tool to type in the VIN number or whatever it takes to make the tool "talk" to the on-board computer. Guys get all weird about pre-OBD2 vehicles and scan tools. No need. Just use a DECENT scan tool, and it'll work out just fine. If you use a craptastic "code reader", or some consumer-grade bottom-feeder junk tool, you can expect it to be useless or worse, problematic.

I don't have experience with the older on board computers but a standard OBD2 scanner will not fit a pre-96 car. It's a different system.

Question...how do you connect a scan tool to a 1995?

LMAO, I meant to post this on another forum discussing old lawnmowers! They dont know what I`m talking about over there either.

I used something very similar on the `95 convertible if not the same thing. Way back in 2015 there was a high flow cat converter w/ downpipe option I went with. Bolted right up to the rear manifold but I had a shop build everything from the cat back, I`m sure it would line up with the factory pipe close enough a shop can work with it.

Sorry I didn't respond sooner. I don't get online as much these days. Anyway, that question is hard for me to answer because I can't comment to the expense and value aspect as I just wanted to always do the LS4 swap. I didn't have any real budget or horsepower goal in mind. I simply wanted to do it to prove to myself that I could. If someone is going for straight power vs cost, it would probably be cheapest to turbo a 3800, and blow the LS4 away. But for me, yes, it was 'worth' it to just do it and have it work.

What is the fuel pressure? How old are the usual "tune-up" items--plug wires, spark plugs, O2 sensor, verify PCV, EGR, and EVAP systems. Check cranking compression pressure. How old is the timing belt? Connect a scan tool, verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Check fuel trims. O2 sensors get lazy with age. If the O2 sensor has more than 50,000 miles or 5 years on it, it's probably due for replacement. If there's a misfiring cylinder, it can drive the O2 sensor to report a false-lean condition. That will drive the computer into rich-command. Expect that the rich running has murdered the catalyst.

Has anyone used one of these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/404754218886?epid=169594596&itmmeta=01HXN86SDHPDG0QC354JY4A2JH&hash=item5e3d3b3f86:g:hNcAAOSwLX9lx9Ja&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwB1bYArsSNNQTeXRP0konEpGR207mbIaDI8geL2Bbyet%2Fp16sFpjEYFKKUSMthFDxpvVSOoL2cL03Gpo2fAz5ukJfFaqnLMZH4YY6450FiMDkVSnE0jReCnJkhYvk8UBp8b%2Bw7lP6O14KDnrKwhIvt%2BK7qUTQqfdkSEceFgYt3aDMIF4KoBo3jA03sEMv%2BxnCLiZq076jyHBWct%2FD1ZeaAzgU%2BBWE1HmQ3OHD00iYIP5bZgT4H4Lb8SSCaI6x6MAYQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-yWm6jtYw

Which gasket are you referring too? The ones that match up to the exhaust manifolds or headers?

That's a good looking TGP you have there. I don't have a TGP, my Grand Prix is from '96, but red with the spoiler is exactly how I would want mine.

Possibly, the turbo is a Garrett T25/28 series... do a search for the turbo flange gasket for that model turbo, I'd imagine that they are still a common item. I've been out of Chrysler turbo cars for some time now.

As for impossible to find exhaust gaskets, could this Fel-Pro stuff be cut to fit? https://www.jegs.com/i/Fel-Pro/375/2499/10002/-1

Fortunately my crossover pipe still seems in good to ok shape for now but its something Ive looked into replacing for sure. Going by the supplement the crossover comes off without any specific instructions really aside from rotating the engine to get at the "rear" of the engine.

A repaired crossover will look like this..... I don't personally know where the turbo flange gasket is available from anymore. Where your *lack of boost* issue is concerned remove the actuator arm from the wastegate valve & try to move the valve lever. It should not be seized. Now test the pressure diaphragm inside the dashpot using a simple handheld vacuum pump to see if the diaphragm has not failed, you're looking for no loss in the reading on the vacuum gauge. The wastegate is normally *closed* due to a return spring inside the dashpot. You'll need to test the wastegate solenoid as well, the solenoid is also closed by default which causes the boost pressure from the turbo to open the wastegate to reduce boost pressure to the engine. Sort out your DTC's first, the turbo wastegate being open shouldn't upset the engine at idle as the wastegate is open at idle, as long as the engine is running the turbo is supplying various amounts of boost.

Thank you guys for chiming in. I do need those to diagnose better. The fuel injectors are coming and I did replace the alternator for the high voltage. I must have code 43 wrong 55 trucker. I came up with knock sensor error. I will look into it better. Nice to meet you Rich with the tgp. Not to look too far ahead but how did you go about fixing the crossover? I plan to remove it and take it to an exhaust shop and have them do their magic. Thinking I should buy a couple of these flex pipe things. Not sure the diameter of the pipe yet though.

since its such a pain in the ass to take the stupid oil pan off I put 2 quarts of Lucas and another 2 quarts of 10w40 in and that seemed to quiet it down a little. gonna baby It until I have the time to swap a jy motor in

this is a follow up to a previous thread where I burned up a rod bearing In my gp. I have decided to get a used motor as it is cheaper than a new crank, set of bearings and a rod. ON car-part.com it shows two options of the 3.1, one with AC mounting on block drilled and tapped, and one not. how do I know if my car is one or the other. My car has AC from factory don't know if that makes a difference.. Also its a 95 gp not a 94, I thought it was a 94 bc it said it on the inside of the door but owners manual says 95

Code 21 = TPS sensor circuit Code 43= ESC (electronic spark control) circuit Code 53 = system over voltage.........occurs when the ECM sees an ignition fuel reference of more than 17 volts.

Aww man you have a wing on yours, Im looking to come across one someday. I can post some stuff from the FSM and supplement book this evening. I`d recommend snagging both from ebay for these things.