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  1. Yesterday
  2. bluecalais79

    1996 Cutlass Console Lid Removal

    Thanks I'll give that a try
  3. Last week
  4. If these are the same caliper bolts I'm used to dealing with, there's a bigass bell-shaped steel spacer that's part of the bolt, it's installed on the bolt before the threads are rolled. The spacer isn't removable, but IT HAS TO SPIN FREELY when installed. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-13899-Caliper-Bolt/dp/B000COCQ88/ref=sr_1_33?dchild=1&keywords=Lumina+caliper+bolt&qid=1593551474&sr=8-33 The spacer is always seized into position when I remove the bolts for brake service. Gotta heat it in a bench vise to get it "unstuck". There isn't really room to paint anti-seize on the bolt, so the next time I take it apart, it's seized again. This is also why you need a quality T60 to remove them--with the spacer seized to the bolt, you have to drag the spacer across the iron of the caliper mount to get it unthreaded. If that spacer doesn't spin freely when you install the bolts, you will have a difficult time getting the bolt tight enough. Of course they'll back out. If the specified torque is 148 ft/lbs with the spacer free on the bolt, 148 won't be even close to tight enough if the spacer is seized. I had one bolt back-out on a road trip to the Big City; about 750 miles round-trip. The lower right-front bolt fell out. All was well until I tried backing up at the gas station, 300+ miles from home. The caliper drag on the rotor caused the caliper to pivot on the upper bolt, it would pull "up" into the inside of the wheel, which made the wheel stop turning. Lots of banging and thumping as the car was in reverse. All good forward. Installed a new bolt when I got home.
  5. jimmyfloyd

    1996 Cutlass Console Lid Removal

    Unscrew the one hinge at the back of the console. Pry the console apart far enough to clear the pins on the hinge. Catch the two pieces that might fall that attach to the side. Reverse for install. That is how I remove them in the junkyard. Never planned to re-install, but I have yet to break a console prying it apart.
  6. 55trucker

    1994 cutlass 3100 stuck in 3rd gear.

    Code 35 is an incorrect idle rpm, 59 is the low temp trans fluid. You mentioned that a tps code was set....21 or 22? I take it that you cleared the code. when you did the KOEO test the scanner went thru the sensor tests and all the trans solenoids responded as they should?
  7. vipmiller803

    Caliper Mounting Bolts Keep Backing Out

    I'd stay away from dorman. I had those very bolts shear around 100 lf-lbs a few times in a row. They still sell ac delco ones. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Caliper-Bolt-BUICK-REGAL-CHEVROLET-LUMINA-MONTE-CARLO-CUTLASS-SUPREME-GRANDPRIX/232137076234?hash=item360c72ae0a%3Ag%3A5mgAAOSwo4pYIQ6T&fits=Year%3A1994|Model%3ARegal|Make%3ABuick
  8. 94 cloisonne convertible

    1994 cutlass 3100 stuck in 3rd gear.

    The codes are 35 and 59
  9. 55trucker

    1994 cutlass 3100 stuck in 3rd gear.

    Ok, the plot thickens, the PCM is not receiving the correct signal from the ECT? (engine coolant temp), a -40 is the default (no signal) display, it could be a wiring harness issue, bad contact at the ECT harness or a failed ECT. Seeing as the ECT signal is out of whack the PCM can't set the correct fuel mixture, won't idle correctly & will not go into closed loop. When you mention a trans temp code is that a code 58 or 59 or 79 or 80? none of those would display on the check engine light....but would have nothing to do with an incorrect idle situation.. see this exploded view of the 4T65 trans, item 391 is the TFT temp sensor.....I'm assuming that it is internal, 224 is the converter harness That is internal
  10. 94 cloisonne convertible

    1994 cutlass 3100 stuck in 3rd gear.

    I borrowed a scan tool it has a code set for the tps ( i just did replace that a day ago because the car does have a high idle usually arounf 1500 rpm. It didnt change the idle of it. Also a code set for transmission temperature. On the scan tool it showed it as a negative 40 Celsius. Where is the temperature sensor at? Can it be accessed from the pan or is that in the side cover? Thanks
  11. pbender

    Best place for jack stands on the rear end

    Just to close this out.. all 4 corners are now on jack stands. I have the car just high enough the wheels barely touch the ground. This is enough I can get the tires off to work on the brakes, especially the rear ones, which was the goal for now. To do this, I had to move quite a few things around the car. I was able to give myself enough room to crawl my fat self between the car and the workbench behind it up to my shoulders, and from there I could see well enough to get the jack on the jacking point.
  12. bluecalais79

    1996 Cutlass Console Lid Removal

    Does anyone know how to remove a console lid for the 1995-1996-1997 Cutlass without breaking anything? I have a black one in mint condition that I'd like to install in place of my beige one but I can't get the one on the car out. It's held on by 2 ear shaped clips that look like they could break easily and it's unlikely the top piece of the lid can be unscrewed as the screw in the back doesn't have enough clearance to get any kind of screwdriver in there. Thanks
  13. 55trucker

    1994 cutlass 3100 stuck in 3rd gear.

    The easiest thing to do is to get a scanner on the powertrain to do a KOEO system check, the scanner would run thru the (4T60E) trans commands to test all sensors for response. But...if the vehicle speed sensor fails the PCM no longer knows what the final drive assembly is doing, usually code 24 is set & third gear is forced. A scanner is not something everyone has, you might save yourself some concern & let a trans shop do the check.
  14. 94 cloisonne convertible

    1994 cutlass 3100 stuck in 3rd gear.

    I have a 94 cutlass convertible and its stuck in 3rd gear. I have power going to one of the prongs on the plug into transmission. Are any of the other one suppose to have power ? I bought the car this way so, i dont have alot of history as to what was going on before. is it the solenoids on the trans or something else going on? Thanks for any help..
  15. Jim_rockford_007

    1999 Lumina 9C3 L67 swap thread...

    Still in work, I had some other stuff come up the distracted me and some money making projects , and now I'm back on , Started tearing the engine down to the short block, inside the supercharger is in good shape, got it cleaned up , rotors looked good and the case didnt look like anyone has been feeding the supercharger any gravel ..lol coupler wasnt busted, but the holes had some slop . I'll post up some pics tomorrow .
  16. 1987 GMC Jimmy

    Caliper Mounting Bolts Keep Backing Out

    Yeah, it’s high time I got a torque wrench. I usually just use the torque-by-feel approach, and if I’m doing something that would be stupid to do without a torque wrench like assembling an engine, I’ll rent one. I’ll check my work with those torque specs, and replacing the other old bolt might not be such a bad idea either.
  17. bluecalais79

    LQ1 common oil leak areas

    I like the 50 extra horses. It's worth the effort.
  18. I would replace both bolts and ensure they are properly torqued. Bolts backing out for no obvious reason can be a sign of stretching before breaking.
  19. After shattering a Lisle T-60 I was told I needed a Snap-on STX60. The STX60 is a snug fit for the job at three and one half inches long but I don’t have to worry about it breaking. This is a picture of a STX60 beside a Lisle T-60 socket.
  20. Also get yourself a good quality impact T-60, they will twist/break at high torque loads.
  21. Yep. Get a torque wrench and tighten those to spec. Even a cheap $10(with coupon) Harbor Freight torque wrench will be more than adequate for this task and the length of it will easily allow you to hit 148 ft-lbs. While it's apart, I would clean the caliper bracket threads if needed and apply a drop of blue loctite to the bolt.
  22. Earlier
  23. digitaloutsider

    Caliper Mounting Bolts Keep Backing Out

    I agree, this sounds like a torque issue to me.
  24. jiggity76

    LQ1 common oil leak areas

    I'm still pretty new to the game but there is NOTHING that deters me from loving the LQ1. I've been doing some interior work and thaaaattt suuuccckkks!!!! I would much rather work on the motor.
  25. Dorman 13899 are front caliper bracket bolts and are supposed to be torked to 148 foot pounds. The front caliper slide bolts Delco #18K114 are supposed to be torked to 80 foot pounds. I had the driver side bracket bolts come loose the first time I replaced my front pads because I only torked them to 100 foot pounds.
  26. Psych0matt

    LQ1 common oil leak areas

    As much as I’ll admit that they’re oddly designed and a pain to work on for some things, I honestly don’t know why they get the hate that they do. The three that I’ve had have been maintained somewhere between mediocre and decent, and have been very good to me.
  27. quakerj

    1995 3.1L no MAF sensor?

    Found a 1995 GP at the junkyard yesterday, needed to get a speaker bracket off it. Since I'm getting a MAF code on my car, I figured I'd grab a MAF off the car, but it was nowhere to be found. Where the MAF is on my engine (just prior to the airbox), this had straight rubber/plastic intake duct. No MAF whatsoever. What gives? Were there speed density (MAF-less) versions of this engine out there in the wild, and what determined whether a car got the MAF sensor or not, or was it a model year change. This is a curiosity question more than anything, TIA.
  28. jiggity76

    LQ1 common oil leak areas

    None of what you just said makes any sense. These LQ1's I've been told are complete pieces of junk! No way you car has been that reliable, LOL!
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