All Activity

@ManicMechanic 1G2WT54X5MF270726

Basically it's the pinned threads at the top of the page so people can find them easier. Those posts have great information in then.

What's a sticky?

This should be a sticky. It's been so long since I removed a CS door panel. I couldn't remember some of the screws.

You're very welcome and hope it helps. Nah, I did that at work. My cars do like to bite sometimes though.

A huge thank you for this Jiggity! Looks like you cut your index finger a bit on this job. One for the cause I guess.

Yup...going by memory here and basing it off of my 91 Cutlass coupe. Step one - getting all the screws out of the panel These should all be phillips head screws and the first one will be up top near the outside mirror corner towards the front of the door. There will be another one at the very bottom center of the door. You might have to get low and really look down at the bottom edge of the door panel to see it. The next one will be a for the door handle bezel. You should see it behind the chrome door handle. Once it's removed, pull the door handle where you need it to feed the bezel off of it. Once the bezel is out, you'll have a little bit of a cavity in the door panel now. There might be a big torx bit screw there that needs to come out. I believe this screw holds the door handle THAT YOU PULL THE DOOR CLOSE WITH to a metal support bracket. Just look in that area to be sure. If there isn't one there, there will definitely be one around the armrest pad area...like under it. Just know that there is a big torx bit screw somewhere in those areas, can't remember if it's just one or two. Going back up top, you'll need to pull away the seat belt cover at the top of the panel where the seat belt goes thru the panel. Once that cover is off, you'll see 2 screws there that need to come out. Maybe even one...I've seen GM just using one screw to hold that bezel down, it's hit or miss. That SHOULD be all the screws but double check. Step two - the door panel should now just be held on with plastic tabs, sort of like a Christmas tree looking plastic tab. Using the armrest pad/grab handle...pull it quickly away and it should break free from the door. Not all the way, but you'll just have to give it a quick, snappy, pull to get the panel to come free. If it doesn't, double check those areas where the torx bit screws might be. You'll have to fish the lower part of the seat belt thru the slot in the door to get the panel fully off. It's good to get new Christmas tree plastic tabs as well since some of those tabs might break when you start messing with the door panel. Your local auto parts store should have them. Step three - gently pull your power window/mirror/lock switch up out of the panel. It's held on with some really strong metal tension tabs and you'll just need to take your time and gently pry it away from the panel. I just used my fingers and absolutely make sure your nails are trimmed so that you don't scratch the panel face. Once it's out, you'll see those tension tabs I'm referring too. You'll have to remove the lock tabs for the connectors to the switch, I just use a small flat blade screwdriver. Wiggle the base of the connector out of the back of the switch...they'll be tough to pull as they're really in there. Some pics of when I did this. Disregard the bolt in this pic..it was incorrect and the phillips head screw is the correct one. You should have it as well unless someone before you messed it up or something. This is the door handle bezel. This is the support bracket for the armrest pad/pull handle. This is where that big torx bit screw lives. This is the secondary door handle cover. It will need to come out when you pull the large bezel around the handle off. It just slips out. A view of the door with the panel off for reference. Make sure the doors harness is fastened to the door. You'll have lots of rattling when going down the road if it's not secure.

Does anyone know the technique/tricks to removing the LH/RH door panels on the 1994 Cutlass Supreme 2 doors? I need to remove the LH door panel to replace my check link, but while I'm at it I'll be replacing the speaker with a better one, and also the Power window/door lock/mirror switches with an NOS one. Thanks

If you don't care about getting the ABS working and your brakes feel fine, Pull your instrument cluster and take the light bulb out of it for the ABS.

The thread on my 91 LQ1/automatic Cutlass Supreme International Series coupe. It might help with some of the LQ1 stuff.

You have a wonderful and impressive collection and beautiful shop. Very cool to see this. Yes, that STE is pretty special and so is Jeremiah. I have bought a lot of NOS STE parts over the years, actually started a long time ago before I even found my STE. Luckily, that has paid off. There are a few things that pop up now and again but it's pretty slim now. If I were you...and what I would have done if I decided to buy the car, find a Z34/5 speed parts car or something similar. Having spare 284 parts and LQ1 stuff is always a good thing. It also helps with keeping this correct, having the correct hardware, clips, and seeing how things are correctly put together on these cars. I also thought about getting a good body shell sedan just in case I needed rust free panels for replacing anything that might be bad on the STE. Any 90-96 rust free sedan will do. The hardest part will be things that are unique of course to these STE's. Those door speaker grills, seat material, some of the electronics, some LQ1 stuff such as the generator's cooling system, of course the 5 speed stuff...but again, a parts car will be your best friend here...some of the interior electronics, those sort of things will be a challenge. By the looks of your shop and your story on the Milan, that might not be much of a challenge for you. Hopefully my thread and another members thread will help answer some questions and be helpful.

https://www.avoidablecontact.com/p/here-comes-the-singer-milan

I promise the only thing you will be hunting me down for on this is pictures. im going to do a rwd conversion, automatic, ls swap, chrome wheels and a killer sound system on this thing! kidding lol I will as meticulously and rabidly restore and preserve to stock condition with utmost cleanliness. My ONLY concern, which Im working with jeremiah on, is insuring it isnt rusty. Jeremiah seems like a fantastic guy. i hate that car discussion is on facebook nowadays. Theres 47 w body groups and then other gm groups etc. I wish this place was what it used to be! Im deeply appreciative of your offer to help I have a pretty open budget for this so am in the market for any/all nice/NOS parts. Stock and perfect are the ultimate end goal. My nerves are really centered around the powermaster 3 and rust. Anything else I should be stewing about? adding a couple of pix of my old w-bodies, my garage now, and an article about a mercury milan i refurbished and sold.

Jeremiah is a cool dude. I message him frequently...actually talked with him today. Just a warning...you better do this car right or I'll hunt you down. I actually had first dibs on this car but I already have an STE and therefor told Jeremiah that I just couldn't pull the trigger on it. I don't have the time and space for another one otherwise I'd be talking it on. This car deserves to be restored and preserved and you sir have a unicorn of a car. I'm here to help find parts and such and will help in any way to get it good again. Just ask.

Yes sir. I had first dibs on the car but decided against it since I've already got my dream STE.

Greg knows this car.

Wait @jiggity76Was this sedan owned by that guy you know?

You should run the vin for it by @ManicMechanicand he can tell you everything about that specific car

Jumping in here because after 20+ years, I wanted to get back into the W-body game, and specifically wanted a 3.4 5-speed. I found a 1991 4 door GP in minnesota (im sure many saw the gentleman selling 9 W bodies on facebook) and decided to pull the trigger. How bad of a mistake did I just make if the car isnt rusty? 447387533_432201872921982_8397251001160634927_n.mp4

So, no one has a clue what this is? One good thing that I’ve learned is that Rock Auto carries a headliner (see, I found out what the piece that covered the ribs is called, LOL) for these cars, will be ordering one.

Not really sure whats being asked here... Can we get a little bit better of a post so we know what you are after?

I'm very interested in purchasing a dome light assembly, can you please let me know if these are still available due to the age of the post and also is it possible to send me a picture so I can see exactly what they look like and hoping they will work for my 93 Cutlass Supreme Vert. Thank you for keeping these vehicles up and running and the ability to find "discontinued parts".

Hey there guys, just had the top on my 1993 vert replaced. Since the piece the covered the workings of the top ( like the inside ribs) had pretty much rotted, this is the first time I’ve ever seen the bottom of the top. There are two metal hook like pieces on either side of the top back behind the back windows that I have no idea what they are or where they should go. Any ideas? Thanks

I just did this job and I relocated the module in the trunk. It's now velcroed on the inner fenderwell. There is plenty of wiring and the module can be hidden under the trunk carpet. Now when the next time it fails it will be a 10 minute job instead of a real headache

Define "tried everything". WHAT did you "try"? What were the results? Yes, a shop can connect a scan tool to diagnose the problem. When it was MY W-bodies, the sensor wires were corroded, the sensor harness from wheel to chassis needed to be replaced. In other cases, the sensor may be bad, or the wheel hub. There are other potential problems that will require other solutions. That's why it needs to be diagnosed with the scan tool. When was the last time the brake fluid was flushed through the ABS unit using a scan tool to actuate the valves?