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for shits and giggles i want sparks to fly when it drives it was a $500 car with 160k miles on it lmao i have no need for it besides body parts. i have no need to own a second one but i chose to because that’s what freedom is all about brother

Point is, you could drive it with the monoleaf still in place, and a functional rear suspension. You have no NEED to "drop" the car. I ask again...why are you trying to ruin the vehicle?

well i can always stretch the tires a little to tuck it more the wheels can’t be wider than the body or it’s going to look terrible

already have a project cutlass with air suspension and i don’t need two headaches having a good ole shitbox is good sometimes

Hey contact Don Ouvry he’s a member of 5th generation olds cutlass group and Oldsmobile Club of America Don just picked up another 95 convertible among his collection of 5th generation cutlasses so he has parts

So, the convertible top switch on my '95 has become somewhat stubborn. The top goes down fine, but to put the top back up, I have to exert an inordinate amount of pressure, pushing the left side inward, as well as slightly upward. I have sprayed the switch liberally with contact cleaner more than once, but to little avail. This problem existed when I bought the car in 2018, but contact cleaner solved the problem for several years, until it reoccurred last year. Anyone know where a new switch can be sourced or have any other ideas of how to address it?

Nevermind. I have a bad OBD connection and just couldnt see it without getting upside down in the drivers seat, I was able to connect my scan tool. I think my ignition switch has gone bad or the aftermarket anti-theft is causing my issue. I dont have a VATS pellet in the key so that shouldnt be an issue right?

Well I think this car is having a similar issue to a `91 Firebird right next to it as if the TGP got infected. No crank, can flash code 12 by jumping A and B on the OBD port, no reason to suspect orange data wire damaged itself inside the dash and the flow chart in the FSM concludes to a faulty ECM or PROM. Is there something else I can test or check to rule out a faulty ECM or PROM? I went the replacement route with the Firebird, spent the money on a new ECM and PROM and it still didnt work.

Alright I got it all put back together and it works great now! I used a combination of a plastic welder and jb weld to reattach the plastic guide and it seemed to work great, it was very sturdy. The door trim and weatherstripping wasn’t too bad to deal with. It’s all screws and metal clips. Some stuff has double sided foam tape/pads but it was no issue. Hope some of this info helps. IMG_7911.mov

How about part # 08686920 2cw204125168370 i have 4 of them in the crate,s cant figure application steve tinley park ill.

hello. I have a 1990 cutlass international and the rear brakes are seized to the rotors. I’m trying to get the caliper bolts loose but they have restricted space. Especially the top bolt. I saw that Gm made a special wrench for that back then. But seeing if everyone else had an issue or could help me. Thanks.

Little late but look on Crutchfield they are helpful

I have a 1999 Chevy lumina I’m trying to upgrade form already aftermarket 5.25 wanna see about adding 6.5 anyone know what I can do to to do that or have any thing I can buy to help me

Oh man, I hope that works out. I dont think you can get another one of those without replacing the entire window. Definitely let us know either way it goes.

Finally got around to starting on this project again. The window motor turned out to be really easy. Thanks jiggity for the pointers! Just ignore the shawty grinder job. I’ll paint over it so it doesn’t rust. Now I’ve decided I want to try and fix this guide for the glass. I bought the car with this piece already broken and I suspect this is what caused the original window motor to fail. I super glued it for now but I have access to a plastic welder. I’m assuming a junkyard is the only option for replacing these. Removing the glass was a little more difficult but nothing too crazy, I made sure to be really careful with the trim and metal clips. Luckily everything is still intact. Gonna work on it some more tomorrow and see what happens.

I moved the coils on my turbo Monte and I was getting a CEL (1530, I think), but it would run and drive fine. Didn't get it figured out and then it decided it didn't want to stay running. I found the power wire to the coil had a break in the connector I used to extend the wire, so I fixed that and now it cranks, but won't start (no spark). The wires test good and the 7x crank sensor as well. We had put a new ICM on, so I went back to the old one and same thing. From what I've gathered, the only things that it could be is power to the coil, the wires to the crank sensor, the crank sensor or the module/coils. If you unplug the 5-wire connector it should still get base timing and start. Any ideas?

IIRC you can reuse the fabric but when re-applying you start from the center and work your way out because its stretched. I recall an old episode of something car.TV where they redid one. Used razor blades to scrap the old foam off, glued a new sheet on and trimmed it. Then used spray adhesive to put the fabric back on and with a roller went from the center out to the edges. It looked doable but I would want to use a new piece of fabric or even vinyl. You need to remove the front seats and center console to get enough clearance to get the board out then back in. Then you will need an assistant or build a contraption to hold the board in place until all the mounting points are screwed off/on other wise you`ll crease the board if one end drops. I held it up with my head and a large thin hardback book to spread the contact point out, and with knee pads I was able to get the sun visors and rear hooks back in that hold it up.

Why are you trying to ruin a reasonably-good car?

My passenger side rear power window does not function but the motor works. I thing the problem is in the drivers door switch buttons. Since the drivers door switch panel is peeling I am looking for a replacement part. Any ideas or maybe someone that rebuilds these. Don

I knew what you meant. ChatGPT might be on to something about contact with another material causing it to happen. Maybe it’s reacting with the foam inside?Maybe the foam inside is of a similar composition to the one in the headliner, and the sagging beginning around the same time as the sweating is more than a coincidence? For things like armrests and headliners, Im assuming GM just sources the materials for their manufacture. For all we know, there are numerous suppliers and it’s luck of the draw as to which one ages better. Another variable is where the cars were built. 1st Gen Regals and Luminas were built in Oshawa. Grand Prixs in Kansas, and the Cutlass in Georgia. If there are local suppliers involved for things like upholstery materials, it probably also stands to reason that there could be differences in the chemical makeup of the materials that will lead to them all aging differently from each other. As for the remote control issue, I’ve dealt with that a number of times. It was almost exclusively in remotes that spent a lot of time “in hand”. Also dealt with it in some very well used cordless phone handsets. I always assumed it was sweat and skin oils that managed to migrate their way in. Maybe the humidity was the main factor all along?

It's not melting, exactly. More like sweating or seeping. There's not any noticeable loss of the color material, but it feels like someone's painted honey all over it. I've seen a similar phenomenon happen with old remote controls. The buttons will quit working, and when I take it apart, there's some sticky honey-like substance all over that can be cleaned off with alcohol, but it'll come back. In the case of the buttons, it's silicone oil seeping out. For vinyl, I've read it's plasticizer. ChatGPT assessment - plausible explanation, but sometimes AI is just plain wrong so take it with a grain of salt: Humidity hadn't occurred to me. Not sure that it gets too humid in the car though. It's possible they could have changed the material at some point. It would be a lot easier if they did, as replacing it with the newer version might be a good long-term fix. If I think of it during the daytime, I should go see if the 88's arm rests are doing the same thing or not. Speaking of headliners, that's sagging on my 89 now too. Probably started around the same time as the armrests started feeling sticky. I don't suppose there's any way to salvage the headliner? I'm guess aftermarket stuff isn't going to be a perfect match. Other than the sagging, the fabric itself is perfect. Can't imagine how to get all that foam off the backside cleanly though.

As long as you're not looking for it to tuck, that should be no problem.

Oh, that's right. I forgot about the guide thing on the earlier cars compared to the later ones. My International is a 91 but due to a deer hit early on in it's life, it has a 88-90 door on it. The seat belt sits differently than the passenger door one. When I get the car repainted, I'm going to add the 91 driver door and fender from MemphisMan's 91 parts car. He was generous enough to give them to me.

No clue. I do know it had an 87 build date, so it was one of the earliest Ws built and that might have played a factor as well. Maybe GM made a material/supplier change across the board due to reports of the previous material failing and some early ones came through with the older material? Perhaps it’s just luck of the draw? The sun visors in my 89 seemed to be made of the same material as the headliner in my 88, and they didn’t show any signs of failure or sagging when it was scrapped in 2015. The 89 had an aftermarket headliner as it had an ASC sunroof, so I couldn’t compare the 2. My 92 uses what seems like the same material as the 88s headliner, and the backing foam still feels nice and springy and doesn’t feel like it’s degraded. As for the front seat belts, they changed the style and likely the manufacturer of the guide when they moved them lower on the door frame and got rid of that stupid tension release system. I find the 91+ front belts to sit more comfortably than the 88-90.

i’d go a little smaller of tire because the overall plan is to put airbags on it when the shop gets a spot open, the goal for me is to have the wheels flush with the body the tires slightly in more than the wheels to have a mean ass fitment when the air bags to air out but