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Absolutely, me too. Unfortunately my car was given the 01-03 one, so I’m almost positive they’re swappable, and because of that this Daytona had a decent one, so I grabbed it, and I can’t wait to put it on

The 97 to y2k steering wheel is my favorite.

There is an aftermarket one, when it does happen I can wiggle some of the wiring to it and the car fires right up. Ive had to unplug the horn and battery ground to keep from pissing off the neighbors as it will go off for no reason at all and rearms itself after 20 seconds. I went to the manufacturer to get some info on it but it wont disable after going through the process outlined. Its a rats nest of wires, relays and fuse holders all taped together with other wires just clipped and hanging. I`m slowly starting to ID and label what I can without taking out the drivers seat.

Kr gauge would be neat, I already have real boost gauge but yeah a kr monitor would be real neat. Also cool thank you for looking, really appreciate it, I’ll be digging into that tomorrow, just gotta see if a pin on the inside will lead to that or if I have to run one all the way from the pcm, either way, I’ll be adding it and my 97-2000 style steering wheel tomorrow

I did some searching. Looks like its pin 21. My car only has the performance shift indicator on the DIC. I've thought about adding it to the gauge cluster. I also want a real boost gauge and a gauge to monitor KR.

I believe it’s just a ground and and a wire to pin(23? I think) to the pcm, enable it in hptuners and it’ll work

I've never pulled the dash on my 2nd gen. The first gens are very easy. I can't imagine it's all that different. 2nd gen interiors are like legos. Switching over to a ECC is probably more trouble than it's worth. Those units are known to have issues. Mine still works fine, but I like the simple controls of the manual climate controls. Performance shift is cool and has been done many times. It's simple to do and you can get it tuned so it works properly.

I recall @GnatGoSplat commenting that on the specific mirrors from the Intrigue, the constant power for the map lights kept the VFD grid powered on, and visible in the dark, and that it was the cause of the drain when running without a BCM. I also seem to recall there being a fix where the grid was either disconnected, or possibly rewired internally to run off the switched power feed instead. If I had to guess, the constant power actually powers the entire mirror, with the switched powers used moreso as controls to turn on and off the courtesy lights and the mirror/compass. If the grid on the compass display was the main draw on the intrigue mirror, the lack of it on the Sebring mirror might mean there is much less of a draw, even if the circuitry is otherwise identical.

It’s at some guys house so if he’s cool enough he’ll supply the beer almost wondering if it’s more worth waiting for one to come up at an actual scrap yard and making a day out of it vs being at some random dudes house for 4 hours working on it..

I guess we'll see if it drains it. I can check for a draw, too. I have a circuit breaker I can always turn off when it's going to sit.

Nothing wrong in bringing your lunch to a salvage yard, just hide the beer under the Mt. Dew. Its not impossible but you do end up fighting a few different plastic clips while holding the dash with your knees at some point, IIRC. Just expect the upper sun soaked area to be brittle when you`re handling it so it doesn't crack. A factory service manual has very nice diagrams that show every mounting point.

Positive/power for the compass is shared with the auto-dimming wire, meaning a compass on any auto-dimming mirror requires no additional wiring. That wire is run to a source that only comes on with power/ignition. The LED map light mirrors have an issue because one of the wires is tapped into a courtesy light source so that they can come on with the rest of the lights when you open the doors or turn on interior lights. That is apparently where the problem lies, because the courtesy lights on '00ish and up vehicles were quite often controlled by a BCM, so without that, the LED map lights continuously draw a small amount of power (about the equivalent to a 194 bulb according to @GnatGoSplat). Not positive if that applies to these Sebring/compass-less mirrors, too, but it would be hard to imagine they had 2 virtually identical mirrors with different circuitry in them.

If I understood correctly, the battery drain issue with the Intrigue version was due to the heater grid in the compass VFD being powered by the always on power lead for the map lights...which was ultimately controlled by the BCM in its original application. Since your mirror doesn't have a compass, you might not experience the same drain issue.

This is the wiring diagram for that mirror. The only wire I don't include is pin 3, which disables auto-dim in reverse. Pretty useless feature IMO, so rather than adding more complication for my customers (have to tap into a reverse light power source), I just remove that pin from the connector.

I had the power wires backwards. Not sure if the auto dim feature works and/or if I'll have to add another wire, but the map lights are working. Hopefully it doesn't kill my battery

It's not bad, takes a couple hours if I remember correctly. Last time I took mine apart was about 2 years ago.

How difficult is it to pull the dash on a 2g Grand Prix? My 03 doesn’t have ECC(only a 97-2000 option) and I’ve thought about adding it. This entails pulling the dash on the 03 and the donor, and installing the donor dash and climate control features on the 03, along with I’m sure much wiring(this has never been done before as far as I know, I’d be the first.) So Saturday I’m driving out to milwakee to get a bunch of parts for my 03 from a 2000 daytona(rear bumper,trunk, steering wheel, spare hud and bezel, performance shift shifter etc etc blah blah blah) and guy says I can be there as long as I need to pull stuff, so there Inlies my question, how difficult would it be do pull the dash on one of these, is it an all day thing? I know it’s not super difficult on 1g cars, but I have no clue on these

They must have junked two of them because there were only 2 when I looked before I went today. They were both base models, unfortunately. However, I did find a Sebring that I didn't know was there. Just need to figure out how to wire it now.

Found this, claims to be OEM and has the box to back it up. https://www.ebay.com/itm/256942446998 Although I don't remember my OEM one being that color and having a Sterling Technologies sticker on it. I wonder if you could have a more serious problem though. If you filled and bled it completely, your coolant should never fall 1/4 below the radiator neck. The light coming on when that happens would be normal and expected. When the coolant expands and contracts, it should be pulling from the reservoir and never add air to the system. Air getting into the system when everything is properly bled and sealed implies possibility of head gasket issue. You might want to pressure test or try one of those head gasket leak detectors.

Happy to host in my server if you can send the pdfs

Starting this journey now, and any info you might have would be great. Going to YouTube it all

So nope the low coolant light is still on. I thought repairing the broken wire would help. Not related at all I guess. I would like to find an nos gm oem sensor. Just so expensive and it probably won’t fix the issue. You could have just a 1/4 of coolant below the radiator neck and the light goes on. When I top if off in the radiator it goes off. It seems to only go on when I service the cooling system and have to bleed all the air out of the system.

just putting together a short list of potential suitors when I go back to the junkyard 2001? - 2006? Dodge Stratus 1995?1998 - 2002 Lincoln Continental 1998-2002 Olds Intrigue GLS (+ compass) 1996-2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible 1991-1996 Chevy Caprice, Buick Roadmaster (tension mount) Out of those, these are the only ones they have. Maybe I should go check those. 2004 DODGE STRATUS 6/30/2025 63 Photo*Details 2005 DODGE STRATUS 8/7/2025 73 Photo*Details 2006 DODGE STRATUS 9/9/2025 56 Photo*Details

The 1995 factory manual said to use silicone grease (GM 12345579 or equivalent) on weather-stripping. If you have tried something other than silicone grease, how is it working for you? An older post mentioned Gummi Pflege instead of silicone grease. I am getting ready to do maintenance on my convertible top, and was just going to use silicone grease again, but am interested in hearing what products people are currently using.

No factory anti-theft of any kind in these. My guess is if you have an aftermarket alarm/anti theft that is where I would start