EGTGP Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 (edited) Now Ive been running 5w-30 in my car since ive owned it the oil cap says 5w-30 but the driver side sun visor says i should run 10w-30.. you know the tgp sun visor.. which is it.. assumed most 60 degree v6's were 5-30 150k on the original motor.. wondering if 10w-30 would help my little blow by issue..(noticed abit of oil from the breather on the front valve cover) oh and how do i get to the fan box in the dash have good working ac and the blend controls are wanged so the vent air is stuck on the floor.. sure one of the baffle motors has the cracked gear mod.. Edited May 23, 2012 by EGTGP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Think of it this way: Any oil is better than no oil. You're not going to hurt a thing running 10w30 with 150k. I ran 15w40 in the dead of winter in my Lumina with no ill effects. As for the HVAC issue, I have no idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChibiBlackSheep Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 150k on the original motor.. wondering if 10w-30 would help my little blow by issue..(noticed abit of oil from the breather on the front valve cover) 5w-30 and 10w-30 would do the same thing while the engine is at normal operating temperature. The first number is simply the viscosity rating when the oil is cold. Which means 5w-30 will get through the engine quicker on a cold day, but it is both 30 at 210degrees. Since your engine is MADE for 30 viscosity when it is warm, I would NOT change that. Running 5w and 10w really doesn't change anything since it only matters on really cold days, or in the first few seconds of a start-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skitchin Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 I've always ran 5w30 in the winter, and 10w30 in the summer. There was another thread on here discussing this, and people just about flipped out on me when I said this^. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2k2cse Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Running 5w and 10w really doesn't change anything since it only matters on really cold days, or in the first few seconds of a start-up. This. The difference between 5 and 10w 30 oil is negligible in most driving conditions/temperatures. I usually use 10w 30 in my car, but have topped off with 5w 30 if that was all I had. My dad has used 10w 30 in his 2004 Century, and it has 235,000 miles and barely burns any oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EGTGP Posted May 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 (edited) Running 5w and 10w really doesn't change anything since it only matters on really cold days, or in the first few seconds of a start-up. Thanks. well that said ill continue to use 5w.. since I don't let it idle long before setting off.. so the turbo is getting oiled sooner. Edited May 23, 2012 by EGTGP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1988PhantomFE3 Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 (edited) Where are you at in Utah? By the Temple maybe? In one of those beautiful canyons? The Manufacture's suggested weight of the oil is contingent on it's viscosity for the applied purpose region according to performance in specific engine types as tested for by DOT trained personnel. How cold does it get where you are, how hot does it get where you are (average ambient temperature in perticular opposed to non perticular) ??? If you are completely uncertain of actual conditions and applications as specified, you can always use the following formula; Figure out the exact engine displacement of your vehicle, multiple the average mileage you drive daily, divide that figure by the average (must be accurate) RMP's {Revolutions Per Minute} of the motor, or your tachometer recorded [important] readings, divided by Pi times (X) R (ratio) Squared (2) on most given trips, calculate the Multiplicitave Inverse Ration Quotent, adjust the curb weight of the vehicle (add any extra cargo/passenger weights), place the integer beneath the proponent, ask yourself if a boat is traveling upstream at 11 miles per hour against a downstream current of 3.098637458867 knots & "How many apples can you buy for a dollar?", change you screen name to DUH, then bend down all the way over, place your head between your legs and kiss your butt goodbye... "Ask a stupid question, get a stupid answer" FACT Edited May 23, 2012 by 1988PhantomFE3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EGTGP Posted May 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Figure out the exact engine displacement of your vehicle, multiple the average mileage you drive daily, divide that figure by the average (must be accurate) RMP's {Revolutions Per Minute} of the motor, or your tachometer recorded [important] readings, divided by Pi times (X) R (ratio) Squared (2) on most given trips, calculate the Multiplicitave Inverse Ration Quotent, adjust the curb weight of the vehicle (add any extra cargo/passenger weights), place the integer beneath the proponent, ask yourself if a boat is traveling upstream at 11 miles per hour against a downstream current of 3.098637458867 knots & "How many apples can you buy for a dollar?", change you screen name to DUH, then bend down all the way over, place your head between your legs and kiss your butt goodbye... "Ask a stupid question, get a stupid answer" FACT yeah I guess I was kinda asking for it... Northern Utah. Beautiful mountains but mostly flat desert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1988PhantomFE3 Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Didn't mean to rag on you buddie, please forgive me, I want to go to Provo...where is that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 5w-30 and 10w-30 would do the same thing while the engine is at normal operating temperature. The first number is simply the viscosity rating when the oil is cold. Which means 5w-30 will get through the engine quicker on a cold day, but it is both 30 at 210degrees. ^^ informed. first number is a relative indicator of how hard it is to pump through the engine when cold. lower number = less resistance. I've always ran 5w30 in the winter, and 10w30 in the summer. There was another thread on here discussing this, and people just about flipped out on me when I said this^. ^^ acceptable. i wouldn't do it, but it won't hurt much, if at all. if the engine was running significantly hotter oil temps in the summer(enough to cause unacceptable drops in oil pressure), jump up to a 40 weight, or one of the "high mileage" 30 weights, since those are generally 30 weight oils that are really close to be classed as 40 weight. OP: don't expect changing oil viscosity to change blowby much... while a thicker oil MIGHT help the rings seal better, it's not going to be some miracle fix, it only masks the real problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 just run a catch can between the turbo and that question mark shaped tube that goes to the stock airfilter box. If you got a K/N filter just poke it in the end and it will catch all that gunk instead of pooping it all over the front of the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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