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Found 1,235 results

  1. The BLUE connector is C1. Wire A = a RED wire. Connect it to an ORANGE wire that is HOT ALL OF THE TIME. (I connected mine to the ORANGE wire that gives power to the cigarette lighter, but it is recommended that you connect it to the ELEC. Fuse #2 constant +12V (top row, middle fuse).) Wire B = PINK/BLACK. Connect it to a wire that is HOT IN RUN. (I connected mine to one of the PINK/BLACK wire in my dash, but it is recommended that you connect it to CLUST. Fuse #9 switched +12V (3rd row, far right).) Wire C = BROWN. Connect it to the light on input. In my car I have a YELLOW wire in slot C10 but I think that that is exclusive to the digi-dash. I want to soy that there should be a YELLOW wire coming out of the headlight switch that should work. I know that on my dash, when the lights are on, and the display is at MAX, then it has no power in the wire, but when I adjust the lever down, the wire becomes hot, and dims steadily. I use a tester that is just a screwdriver looking thing that has a point at one end, and an alligator clip that you hook up to ground. Wire D = GREY. Connect this to one of the grey wire for illumination. I hooked mine up to the GREY wire that lights up the bulb for the cigarette lighter light. Wire E = BLACK/WHITE. This is a ground. Wire F = BLACK/GREY. This wire is not used. Wire G = YELLOW. Connect this wire to the LITE BLUE wire in the dash (You may not have this wire). This is your English/metric wire. In my car, I push a button on the dash to change it from English (MPH) to metric (KPH). When this wire is hooked up, it automatically changes the DIC display from one to the other when the E/M button is pushed on the dash. This is a wire that is not necessary for the DIC to function, so if you do not have the wire, then just leave it unconnected. Wire H = BLACK. This is a ground. I hooked this up to the BLACK wire connected to the cigarette lighter light. The BLACK connector is C2. Wire A is ORANGE. Connect this to the ORANGE wire coming out of the ALDL connector under your dash. This is your SERIAL DATA INPUT where the DIC will get the info for your gauges button. Wire B = DARK GREEN. Connect this to the DARK GREEN wire in the dash. This is your Vehicle Speed Input. In my car it is wire number D15. Wire C = PINK. Connect this one to the PURPLE wire in the dash. This is your vehicle Fuel sender wire. In my car it is wire number D13. Wire D = BLACK/GREEN. This is another GROUND. It is not used in the 91 model. Driver Info System was not available 92+. You will not find a new cutlass with one. If you put one in your car, then it will go where the storage cubbyhole is under the ashtray. The screw-holes for the 98 Regency’s DIC is identical the Cutlasses, so it will go there with no problem. If you get the DIC out of a Cutlass, then be sure to get the storage pocket as well. IF (OR WHEN) you get the HUD, then the control switch will go where the storage is. 89-90 cars got a little pocket in the empty space. HUD control panel was mounted above the headlight switch (below the dash pad). 91 cars got a little pocket if they didn't have HUD. Cars with HUD got the control panel instead of the pocket. Is your headlight switch up high next to the speedometer with the foglight switch next to the air vent? If so, then the HUD switch goes in the pocket. My car headlight switch is located next to the vent, with the foglight switch next to the speedo. (INT'L models also had the BASS BOOST switch as well as the foglight switch) But I will still put the HUD switch next to the DIC.
  2. So a whole pile of work later, the paperweight is running and back on the road. I've got two issues with it though. First is the vents; with A/C on, i'm getting air from both the floor and the dash vents. When I'm on the throttle at all, the airflow shifts more towards the floor, and anything like heavy throttle pushes it all the way to the floor. From what I know of the system, that means a vacuum leak, so where should I start looking for it? Second issue is a low idle in drive. According to the tach, i'm right at 500 when idling, and the car has a bit of a vibration along with a voltage drop from the alternator. I'm thinking that the two are connected, though I would have expected a vacuum leak to give a high idle. If it helps, the last repair done was an ECM replacement. Thoughts, advice appreciated! Edit: Cruise control isn't right either. It tries, but can't keep the car up to speed. It's doing something though, because ifI turn it off, the car does suddenly slow down a lot quicker. It's almost like i have some vacuum but not much. Now I'm wondering if maybe I have one of the vacuum lines in the wrong port?
  3. Recently had multiple problems with windshield wipers and washer motor on 1992 Lumina Euro 3.4. I think this should apply to all '94--older W bodies, though. Last fall, the windshield washers quit squirting fluid. I ignored it. Figured the washer fluid was empty, or frozen, and "I'll fix it later". Sometime in January, the wipers quit working. OK, that got my attention. Family matters kept me from fixing the problem--too busy flying back and forth to California to work on the car. Car is now fixed, photos re-sized and hosted, etc. Time for the write-up. Fixed wipers first. Wiring was intermittent at the wiper switch. Remove under-dash panels, remove steering wheel, remove "turn signal" stalk, remove "Hazard Flasher" button, remove horn contacts, pop three screws. Worst part is routing the wire harness under the steering column, and even that isn't too bad. Result: Wipers work, even on delay/pulse. WASHER still does not spray fluid. Replacement wiper switch came from NAPA, http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=ECHWS1051_0306359133 Test WASHER motor. Seized. I can apply power and ground to the motor, the motor does not turn or pump. Scavenge tested-good WASHER motor (and washer bottle) from another vehicle. WASHER still does not work. Check for power and ground at two-wire harness connector for washer pump, near battery. Ground is OK, but there is no power to the motor when the washer switch on the "turn signal" stalk is rotated. Turns out that the WIPER motor is also used to pass-through the power to the WASHER motor. If the circuit board for the WIPER motor is defective, the circuit for the WASHER motor can be incomplete. The circuit board is discontinued by GM. I cannot find a source for rebuilt or aftermarket WIPER circuit boards. Rebuilt WIPER motors do not ship with the circuit board. The circuit board is Treasure Yard Only so far as I can tell. Theory: Defective WASHER motor led to failure of electronic components on WIPER motor circuit board. Went to the Treasure Yard looking for a WIPER motor and circuit board. They sell the wiper motor only as an assembly with the wiper transmission and mounting bracket as an assembly. Discover that the wiper motor (with delay wipers) may be interchangeable from '89 to '98 on some W-bodies, but the TRANSMISSION IS DIFFERENT. Treasure Yard sells me a wiper motor/wiper transmission assembly from a 1995 vehicle. I am fixing a '92. Removal of WIPER motor/transmission from '92: 1. Remove wiper arms by removing plastic cover over pivot. Remove nut holding arm. Remove hose for washer from nearby nipple. Wiper arm may be lifted, and a small drill bit installed through slot near hinge so that arm is held up away from glass. I used an adjustable battery terminal puller to get arm to release from tapered, splined pivot shaft. Wiper arms then lift off of pivot shaft. Helps to have the hood about half-way open. 2. Remove two plastic retainers (straight-blade screwdriver), and a small fistful of sheet metal screws from black-painted metal trim piece. Trim piece also has "rubber" seal to windshield that is often damaged by windshield wipers. Black paint typically flakes off, can be easily cleaned and re-painted. 3. Remove small fistful of sheet-metal screws from black plastic "grille" that screens air for heater/defroster. Disconnect washer hose from nipple on firewall. Remove "grille" assembly. Careful, it's likely to fold-up in the middle. Mine was already broken from clumsy windshield installer years ago. 4. Remove two or (maybe) three screws from black plastic shield over wiper transmission. Shield protects the actual air entry for the blower fan, so that rainwater coming off of windshield doesn't enter passenger compartment via the blower fan. 5. Remove two electrical connectors from wiper motor. They are locked in place with two green tabs which have to come out before the connectors can be unlatched. 6. Remove six bolts through the six rubber grommets of the wiper transmission. 7. Cleverly twist/lift/yank the wiper motor and transmission from vehicle. Installation is the reverse of disassembly. (I've always wanted to say that.) Original wiper motor dated [19]"92 012". New wiper motor dated "04 04 [19]95" And again, on the motor itself: 92, and the part number also. Newer motor, different part number, but completely interchangeable with the '92 motor. I put the '95 motor/circuit board onto the '92 transmission. Fits and works wonderfully. So again, the wiper motor interchanges, but the transmission does NOT. Cover, nut, and washer hose to be removed. Plastic retainer for metal shield (one of two retainers) Washer motor and power connector. Blue wire is ground, red wire is power. [i have at least one more photo to post, and perhaps adding some additional info--but--I wanted to get this started while I had some time.]
  4. L36 heads for sale, $20/pair. If someone wants them I can run them to the Columbus meet, too heavy to bring if nobody says they want them. 130,000 miles off running engine. L67 blower, TMU, off an engine I stripped. Again too heavy unless someone claims it. $25. 2 brand new remote fobs for gen II, bought for the Bonneville and they're the wrong ones $8/ea. Left hand DIC, lightweight, it's coming regardless. $8. 3 Gauge dashtop pod $15, wanted to live where my HUD is going so I used alternate mounts. L36 fuel rail, lim, tb, make offer, not coming without some interest. Have a used uim to go as well but I wouldn't run a used one so I'm assuming nobody wants it. l26 Fuel rail, I don't know why I have an L26 fuel rail but it's pretty. L36 Valve Covers I'll probably have more odds and ends.
  5. Hey anyone have any ideas why both dash speakers would quit working rear speakers work good is there a fuse that might control this or a possible wire that fell off .....its all stock and has never been tampered with ???? t
  6. Hello guys, seeing if there's another miracle worker on here. I'm helping a buddy with a engine swap, but the dash harness we have has been cut. What I'm trying to figure out it where the dash harness plugs into the back of the power distribution box. We got most of the wires figured out but there is about 10 wires that are green. All same color of green and same size with no other markings. Does anyone have a diagram for this or know what these wires are for?
  7. Grabbed a 2nd Dash Cluster and wanting to replace all the bulbs with Saudered on LEDs with Resistors between the + connection and the bulbs since they run about 3v vs 12-14v the car sends to the stock bulbs. Looking for a diagram of the board to find out which leads at positive and negative Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Did some work on the TGP today, found an old remote radar detector under the bumper, and found all kinds of wires under the dash connected to nothing, also found some other concerning things that I have questions on. Shall we began? Found this under the dash that the radar detector was hooked into. Looks like stock wiring, says PED on it. Black wire is cut, what is this to??? Is there supposed to be a chime module here??? Found this under the dash, doesnt look stock is wired into my radio and my power antenna, maybe this is why power antenna no longer works... I feel like there is something missing here, am I wrong? Or should this just all be exposed like this?? Thanks for looking guys!
  9. So I recently acquired Luminapower92s Maui blue Z34 and am in the process of putting the interior back together and j/y around here have apparently ran out of early 90s 2 door w-bodies to pilfer parts from, specifically luminas. So here is what I am currently after at the moment: Gray carpet in decent shape Center console (grey) Ill add more as I need it, but these are the essentials I need to get the interior back together. TIA
  10. Hi guys, im new to the forums just got a 99 GTP supercharged Beautiful car needs alil work runs and drives fine just need some bodywork a motor mount and supercharger coupler. Got her stupid cheap. Would you believe the guy sold it to me for 500 bucks? Anyways, back to subject I bought the car with no head unit in it guy said wasnt working when he bought it. I put in an oem cd player from my grand am gt and radio is fine but no sound out of speakers. I noticed there were alot of speaker wires in the dash and under the carpet to the trunk area. I noticed he did have an aftermarket headunit in the and he wired the speakers individually to bypass the bose oem amp but the speakers are all connected to amp and harness to the radio is it possible the amp is bad is why i have no sound. How do i know the amp is working or on? The fuses are all good in glove box are there more i need to check?
  11. Do you want to update your dash of your 95-97 Cutlass? Check out what I found at WhiteGauges.net. They just came out with the Heater Control face overlay. I had them make the Console Shifter overlay for me. They will make any item you want. They did a very good job. The Headlight Switch is also a brand new product.
  12. Well after figuring out that my 98' Monte has a "change oil soon" light system, but never seen it working I pulled apart the dash cluster to see if the bulb was blown, found out GM never installed the bulb for it, or for the security light, and there was a couple other holes they could have friggin' used for a cruise control light, but go figure it didn't even have the anything on the faceplate for those holes. Excuse my rant, first GM product and things are already irritating the crap out of me. Well after swapping the volt light bulb over to the "chg oil soon" light to see if it would work, and finding out it fully worked and was able to reset the oil change system. Put it all back together, drove it around the block to make sure everything worked, and the speedo is slow to get up to the proper speed, the needle acts like it's catching on something and jumps until it gets to the proper speed, same thing for deceleration. Will be sitting at a dead stop and it will still read 10-20MPH until it catches up. What's wrong here? Tried playing around with the needle while the plexiglass was off to see if I could get it to smooth out, but no amount of fiddling with it made any difference. I really don't want to hear the words. "Replace the cluster" EDIT: Ignore the dumbass lol aparently when taking the cluster out, it fell forward and pushed the need far enough in for the base to drag on the faceplate. Went out to get some dinner, and at a stoplight I grabbed the base of the needle gently and pulled it ever so slightly away from the faceplate and it is working fine again. I still wonder why there was never any bulb installed for the Security and Oil Change lights though. Must have been built on a friday. lol
  13. Not pleased...not pleased at all. Filled with ineffectual rage, like Ben Stiller in the first part of Mystery Men... So, I'm about to go to work late due to snow...and I decide to wait for the plow to finish on my cul-de-sac street before I go...and while turning around, the freaking truck backs into my windshield! Drivers side, knocks hole in it...messes up windshield trim as well, and also screws up the top door edge black trim as well as putting a minor dent on the edge of the door frame. Glass on the dash and floor...seat...door panel. Cardboard over the hole for now. So...is that door trim the same piece on all 1st gen W coupes? Anyone have a black piece that will fit a 94 Regal GS coupe?
  14. So I've noticed since I started driving the Cutlass again that the car is giving me a whopping 10 MPG in MIXED driving... I'm almost scared to know what it would do in real downtown city driving. Anyways, I hooked up tunerpro to the car, and I'm not getting any codes. The only thing I do see is the computer actually affirming me that I'm getting 10mpg. That's what the dash on tunerpro says. At times I get lucky and it will jump to 12 or 14 but most of the time it's 10. This is interstate driving, where usually, I would get 18-20MPG. It used to be that when the car was in 4th gear and doing 70, I got 23mpg, but that's no longer the case. No matter the speed, it's giving me 10mpg. I have switched the TPS out thinking it was that, but no avail. No codes set, no vacuum leaks, tried seafoaming it, that didn't help. I'm at a loss. The interesting part is that I do smell a sweet honey like smell after turning the car off. I sometimes do also notice the engine a bit sluggish around the 2000rpm mark, but resolves itself if I floor it to 3000rpm. After that it acts normal but will feel sluggish if I go back to 2000rpm. I do have a datastream from the time I ran it with tunerpro, but don't know how to attach. All help is appreciated.
  15. HUD dash conversion. Last spring I found a mint non HUD dash and converted it a HUD dash. NOTE: The defroster duct is different between the two dashes. Remove HUD dash, turn upside down and with a medium straight blade screwdriver pry the plastic support / defroster duct off dash. Retain dash top for hole location reference. Turn non HUD dash upside on towels or something to protect it, pry the plastic support / defroster duct off dash. Discard non HUD defroster duct as it is not reused. Sand / grind the glue / epoxy off the back of the non HUD dash and off the HUD defroster duct. Remove staples as well, or cut them off or grind them flat (some are buried in the factory epoxy glue). Measure and cut hole for HUD (cut the plastic fiber backing the same size, but cut the vinyl part approx. 1/8" smaller than hole on all sides). Test fit the HUD defroster duct on the new dash (there is an aluminum plate that goes in the HUD hole and the vinyl will need to be trimmed more in this area). Test fit HUD in hole and trim as needed. With new dash upside down use blocks under the towel to position dash as natural as possible. Apply adhesive glue to back of non HUD dash and attach HUD defroster duct. I used Loctite construction adhesive. Still holding strong. Clamp / tape as needed to hold the two pieces together until adhesive dries. Small short screws could be used as well, as long as they don't poke through the dash, of course. Remove clamps, tape and screws, install new HUD dash. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. ALright guys its offical, i have begun the swap, i will be posting a tonne of pics of the progress for your watching pleasure. im im doing this in my driveway for the time being and will pull the engine at a local gm dealership that has agreed to let me use their shop over a weekend anyways for starters, even when doing this yourself if you ever decide to do it, take alot of pictures, its will help refresh your memory on re assembly if required. Start of the swap, there is a few options, either you can pull the engine first or tackle the dash, or if you have help, you can have one on each. i decided to start on the interior. its pretty basic but time consuming, a 7mm, 10mm, extentions and 13mm are your best friends. im not going to get into details as the pics say enough for the interior, but for other stuff more details will be had to make things easier on yourself label all the connections like i am doing. im about an hour into the interior and here is my progress
  17. Hi all, The short story is I pulled the motor on my '92 GTP for a clutch job and I noticed my DIC is showing "CK. FUEL" with no speed/range/econ data available. I ran DIC diagnostics on it, and the 1st two digits agreed with my fuel level, but the 7th digit is showing an X instead of S, meaning an ECM serial data failure. So I tried connecting my Snap-On MT-2500 scanner to the ALDL line. It gets power, but can't connect to the ECM in scanning mode. I pulled it off and tested shorting the A&B ALDL pins, and the dash flashed the 1-2 code series to say everything's OK. The manual says that I should check my wiring on the orange 461 wire for short or open, but I haven't messed with anything in there lately and as far as I can tell it looks OK under the dash, and also from the firewall harness connector back to the ECM. I doubt it would be a problem in the DIC itself, but haven't ruled that out. Anyone else ever had this happen before? Is there another point where I can do continuity tests on that wire to figure out what's going on?
  18. I picked up a 1993 3.4 Cutlass Convert from a neighbor and it has been a great car. Red body, gray interior and black top. But, the car has suddenly gone crazy. When I start the car, it goes thru a sequence of tests quickly checking all the dash lights, radio and climate controls. The sequence just continues round and round. I pulled the fuse that stopped it, but now I have no climate control or dash gauges (except fuel). I searched threads on the board to see if someone else has experienced the same problem, and I could not find one. I disconnected the battery and checked all the connections. No improvement. Electrical is my weakest area and I need some direction. Any thoughts?
  19. Hey guys and gals, it's been a while! UPDATE: I gave my 1996 Chev Lumina 3.4 to my parents 3 years ago and its been great, but recently it's been acting up. When you turn the key, the starter does not operate (DOES NOT CRANK) 35% of the time. The other 65% of the time it starts PERFECTLY. We replaced the starter (clearly didn't need one). It still will not start every time. I read there is two wires I should be checking in the key cylinder for the Theft system sound like the next step? I was driving it the other day and the SECURITY light was on the dash the 1 of 3 times I started it. Any thoughts? Thanks!
  20. I have a really odd HVAC panel in my 95 CS. It is not the dual zone, but it is not vacuum, as it's all wires behind it. Air is stuck at defrost. Fan speed and hot/cold work fine. Thought maybe faulty switch, replaced with a JY one same deal. Checked all fuses. It sounds like the door is not wanting to open, can hear a faint electrical noise like it wants to. Any other ideas? I have a feeling its the mode door. I hope not, because I don't wanna tear out the dash to fix it.
  21. Ok, the high revving problem has been solved on my 94 cutlass 3.4 engine, now another has popped up. When I go to start the car sometimes she fires on the first turn of the key. Lately when I turn the key it takes three or more attempts to get it to turn over. The car has a new battery and alternator and when I check the battery voltage it reads 12.2 to 13 volts, and the in dash volt gauge reads 13 volts. As the car s driven the voltage moves two lines into the red zone. This does not happen all the time but it has me a bit concerned as to what is going on. I've checked the battery cables, fuse's, grounds and wiring. My gut is telling me it's a starter solenoid, but my son is thinking it's an ignition problem. I'm looking for any input and am open to suggestions.
  22. '94 Cutlass Supreme - manual heat... the fan settings 1-3 have stopped working on my HVAC system, only 4 works. We checked fuses and relays last night... but were unable to locate the resistors. The Haynes manual is no help, and after 20 minutes of looking around under the dash in the passenger footwell we didn't spot anything... Anyone have a diagram or photo? Thanks!
  23. After my earlier success with the passenger door handle. I really felt froggy and decided to tackle the engine and transmission mounts in my '95 GP SE. I got it done, it took me 2 days and a lot of praying and cussing (at the car), but I got it done. This is what the Engine mount looked like when I got in there. Here is a photo of some of what I pulled out of the pan the mount sits in. Here are a couple of photos of the new and old mounts side by side. Keep in mind this has been sitting in there for 19 years. Needless to say, after 2 days of working on this and several trips to Harbor Freight tools, I got them both in. It is SOOOOOO nice to not feel the dash vibrate when I'm driving. It feels like when I first got the car. Now I can hear all the other noises in the car I need to repair. After I got the trans mount out, I realized I didn't really need to replace it as it is a solid piece of rubber and not the crappy hydraulic on that was on the engine mount. Since I already was doing the other one, I decided to just go ahead and take care of the trans mount too.
  24. Imp558

    Glowshift gauges?

    Anybody run glowshift gauges? I'm looking for descent cost effective fuel pressure, boost, and a/f and found these: http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Tinted-7-Color-100PSI-Fuel-Pressure-Gauge.aspx http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/tinted-7-color-35-psi-boost-gauge.aspx http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/tinted-7-color-air-fuel-ratio-gauge.aspx I know the A/F gauge isn't wideband, probably should spring for a better one. The same site has a pretty cool dashtop pod that I liked: I'd like to know if anybody has experience with them, keeping in mind that this whole assemble is under $200. Also, we have the same thread on our fuel pressure test port as an LS engine, right? Need to order the adapter doodle.
  25. I have key phobes that sometimes work on the driver side, but does not work on the passenger side at all. The Trunk works usually with being up close to the car. The other thing is once I get the drivers side door open and click to unlock the locks for the whole car, the passenger lock still will not work. I have to manually open it from the inside. I did check the fuse under the dash on the passenger side. I took it out and put it back in. Nothing was wrong with it. Thanks for any help!
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