Jump to content

Stuck lifter?


xtremerevolution
 Share

Recommended Posts

xtreme:

 

I was hoping you wouldn't ask...because you probably don't really want to know.:confused:

 

Hard to know for sure...I'd be tempted to pull the oil pan, and clean it out, just to be safe...but that's me. There's a good chance that whatever it shredded is down in the pan...it might never cause a single problem, but then again, it might.

 

Here's how I see it. I drove about 150 miles while the valvetrain noise was getting particularly loud, and another 2500 miles before that while the noise was intermittent. One would think that if whatever's in that engine is capable of causing very serious problems, it would have done so by now. My guess is its either at the bottom of the oil pan (which I won't pull becuase I don't feel like dropping the subframe), or in the filter, which I'll cut in half tonight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 240
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • tornado_735

    9

  • RobertISaar

    55

  • xtremerevolution

    108

  • alec_b

    11

tha actual mechanics of the swap isn't any more difficult than doing any other swap. the hard part is the wiring. you can certainly put the motor in. Brian Teel from motorswap.com is doing my harness it is a little more involved than i wanted to do. he has a built alot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! of harnesses for custom swaps. really easy swap if you already had a plug and play harness ready

Link to comment
Share on other sites

tha actual mechanics of the swap isn't any more difficult than doing any other swap. the hard part is the wiring. you can certainly put the motor in. Brian Teel from motorswap.com is doing my harness it is a little more involved than i wanted to do. he has a built alot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! of harnesses for custom swaps. really easy swap if you already had a plug and play harness ready

 

How much is he charging you for that harness, and how long is it taking him to make it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i havn't shipped it yet but he takes care of all the mods need to put the L67 in your car. he can do it without changing your interior harness. it will take between 2-3 days in his hands and of course shipping time. he can supply all the harness needed, or you can ship him your original harness that is in your car now and the harness he recommends to do the swap (which is what i am doing). the first way will cost approx $500 the second way around $200-$250 but you will need to get an exact quote from him yourself. i am extrmeley good with 12 volt wiring but fo my first swap of this kind i wanted a pro to do it. when you get it back it will just plug in turn key and go. i think for the time spent and aggervation $200 isn't a bad deal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like Bob would do it for a lot cheaper than that.

 

I'm having him do the swap. I don't have the place, or the time to do it, especially with the Jag on its way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pussy!

 

Just kidding. If I were to do the swap, I'd do the engine myself but I wouldn't even think of touching the wiring. I don't mine wiring, actually I quite enjoy it (just look at my UB3 swap) but wiring an ENTIRE engine into a car that wasn't meant to have it is something I'd leave to a pro. But I know where you're coming from, not having the right equipment or the ability to pick up the engine is a real pain. I'm glad you're keeping the regal though, it's a great looking car.

 

Oh and I've NEVER seen a roller lifter grenade like that. I really wonder what happened, I know you've got some miles on it but with the way you maintain that thing I would have never expected it. I mean hell 3800's go 300k miles with no valvetrain work, it seems like a complete mystery.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wiring is not hard:dunno:

 

would you be willing to help me with an obd I to obd II wiring conversion. will be done in a 95 cutty 3400 swap. i will be eagerly awaiting the results of xtremes swap. by the way i am from cincinatti.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Figured I'd give you guys an update.

 

I got the car put back together with a good lifter from a junkyard. Started up the car and everything rattled and ticked like crazy, presumably from the lifters not having any oil in them. I let it idle for a bit, and the ticking died down. Went for a short drive, and the engine ran smooth as new. It actually all sounded very good. I revved the engine from inside the engine bay and it sounded great. I was feeling good about it all for a second.

 

Then I went out to drive it a bit more. Gave it a bit of throttle a few times, and on the way back up the driveway, it started ticking again, and started losing power. I went inside, took a shower, came back, and drove the car up and down the street. The car has enough power to accelerate, but I'm pretty sure something happened to that lifter again. I don't know what, but its ticking.

 

On the positive side, it feels like it has a somewhat decent amount of power. I think it should be able to make it to Ohio, and I won't be driving it anymore until then. I might take it out for a spin on the highway tomorrow to see how it runs at highway speeds, but it seemed to run decently under light throttle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there must be something blocking the oil supply to it. probally what failed the first one.

 

The oil will get to the roller without needing to get to the hydraulic function of the lifter itself. That, and there was oil in the bad lifter when I pulled it off.

 

What's the worst that can happen? My cam lobe will grind flat, and I'll be driving on one less cylinder.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or... metal parts fly all over the inside of the engine, leaving you stranded alongside the highway.

 

Yeah...that wouldn't be good. I'm crossing my fingers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

would you be willing to help me with an obd I to obd II wiring conversion. will be done in a 95 cutty 3400 swap. i will be eagerly awaiting the results of xtremes swap. by the way i am from cincinatti.

 

I converted my 95 CS to obd2! Cake walk. I could do it again in less than a day

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LETS DOOO IT. :lol:

 

$150 parts and labor. Paypal me the money and i'll have the harness done and ready for install when you decide to drive your butt up here!! Install will take around 6-8 hours or less.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share


×
×
  • Create New...