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Radnsmash
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Well Ladies and Gentlemen, This morning I started my car up, and it was knock knock a knocking.

 

I had posted about this behavior on my first few days of the forum, and nearly everyone pointed towards the intake manifold gaskets, so I shall wait no longer, and get the job done.

 

The reason I'm posting is because I just want to know what parts I NEED to replace, nothing extra like thermostats, rad caps and hoses, etc. I know ill need the UIM+LIM gaskets, a new UIM(?), obviously new coolant(Should I go with DexCool or just 50/50?) a fresh change of oil, and coolant elbows(Could someone please post a picture of these?) My wallet is running on E and I just want to get the necessities first. I'm somewhat mechanically savy and I know everyone says this is a cake walk, but I cant risk losing my 1 car that isn't technically mine, so I'm taking it to my best friends dads house(Guys a wrench at a local shop, owns a sweet 69 Charger R/T, has helped me in the past) for some help with the job.

 

So...what parts to get, and made by who?

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Upper intake manifold/plenum, made by Dorman. Comes in a kit with all needed gaskets, should be around $130 on rockauto.

 

Perma-dry lower intake manifold gaskets by FelPro, also on rockauto.

 

Stick with DexCool in a 50/50 mixture, NOT the green stuff (unless you want to be replacing your water pump).

 

The heater core elbow coming out of the LIM is in the help section of your local auto store. I don't know the part number.

 

Don't forget oil for an oil change. You're guaranteed to drop some coolant into the engine.

 

I know you said no extras, but do the fuel injector o-rings while you're at it. Only $2 or so for all of them.

 

You'll need a torque wrench and the torque specs for the manifolds. This is important.

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Well Ladies and Gentlemen, This morning I started my car up, and it was knock knock a knocking.

 

I had posted about this behavior on my first few days of the forum, and nearly everyone pointed towards the intake manifold gaskets, so I shall wait no longer, and get the job done.

 

The reason I'm posting is because I just want to know what parts I NEED to replace, nothing extra like thermostats, rad caps and hoses, etc. I know ill need the UIM+LIM gaskets, a new UIM(?), obviously new coolant(Should I go with DexCool or just 50/50?) a fresh change of oil, and coolant elbows(Could someone please post a picture of these?) My wallet is running on E and I just want to get the necessities first. I'm somewhat mechanically savy and I know everyone says this is a cake walk, but I cant risk losing my 1 car that isn't technically mine, so I'm taking it to my best friends dads house(Guys a wrench at a local shop, owns a sweet 69 Charger R/T, has helped me in the past) for some help with the job.

 

So...what parts to get, and made by who?

 

So the car is knocking now?

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If it's actually "knocking" now, it's pointless to do the LIM gasket as you already have an engine failure....you might as well start searching for a good used motor to swap in there.

 

 

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yeah I was gona say, if the car is making a lower end knock then you are just throwing money away doing any more work to it. are you sure its not just a loud cold engine? are you getting coolant mixed with your oil?

 

 

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if you think it can be saved, do the gasket. it the knock is lower end knock, the engine is toast.

 

failed intake gasket will not cause engine knock... until the bearings have already been damaged.

 

 

 

WHAT DOES THE OIL LOOK LIKE RIGHT NOW? if it looks like a milkshake, you are tooooo late.

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Since its a 99, and you have a engine knock, just find a good 3800 to swap in, the knock will only get worse.

 

Or, it could be a good time to put in a L67BBQ!!

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Maybe if I wasn't an unemployed high school senior I'd throw an L67 in it, but with 2K for my insurance and a father who wont let me go all out with it because he thinks I'm "not that good yet". The knock sounds like its def. coming from upper intake manifold, checked the dipstick and it sure looked like oil.(And as usual, nearly no coolant in there, but I'd rather not throw some in since I've been using the "green stuff" ever since I first saw the LOW COOLANT light come on in the beginning of this year. I'm just going to get this done and pray that this 3800 lives up to the reputation of its great brothers.

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3800 are loud when cold. Its normal.

 

Now I dont know if you are hearing engine knock or piston slap from a cold piston.

NAhhhhhh. Not really. My 98 with ~159K on 'er (I've put on less than 5K since last winter) started up in our beautiful -40* Minnesota winters and had never had any engine noise, with the exception of a nice groan of the PS pump for a few seconds due to pumping molasses at that temp. Piston slap has been pretty much exclusive to the 60* V6's

 

Also, if you do decide to get a new intake, (I like rock auto, but this one beats it) Here's one for ya: http://www.ineedparts.com/auto-parts/intake-manifolds/gm-intake-manifold-kit-17806.html ~$105 shipped. And it's not just another new stock intake either that WILL fail again. It's a revised one that corrects the problem with the intakes. (read the specs)

 

 

Stick with DexCool in a 50/50 mixture, NOT the green stuff (unless you want to be replacing your water pump).

Replaced my Dex-junk with green 2.5 years ago when I did mine. No probs to date.

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3800 are loud when cold. Its normal.

 

Now I dont know if you are hearing engine knock or piston slap from a cold piston.

NAhhhhhh. Not really. My 98 with ~159K on 'er (I've put on less than 5K since last winter) started up in our beautiful -40* Minnesota winters and had never had any engine noise, with the exception of a nice groan of the PS pump for a few seconds due to pumping molasses at that temp. Piston slap has been pretty much exclusive to the 60* V6's

 

Also, if you do decide to get a new intake, (I like rock auto, but this one beats it) Here's one for ya: http://www.ineedparts.com/auto-parts/intake-manifolds/gm-intake-manifold-kit-17806.html ~$105 shipped. And it's not just another new stock intake either that WILL fail again. It's a revised one that corrects the problem with the intakes. (read the specs)

 

 

Stick with DexCool in a 50/50 mixture, NOT the green stuff (unless you want to be replacing your water pump).

Replaced my Dex-junk with green 2.5 years ago when I did mine. No probs to date.

 

Good call on the intake. Much better price.

 

I've had different experiences with Dexcool.

 

First off, its not junk. Its perfectly usable provided you maintain your system and flush it out when necessary, and does its job perfectly well. All of the problems of it gunking up are related to people using non-distilled water. My Bonneville is coming up on 70k miles now with the original Dexcool and absolutely no gunking or other issues whatsoever. Dexcool also isn't to blame for the gasket failures.

 

I have, however, heard of peoples' gaskets or water pumps going bad shortly after they switched to or from Dexcool.

 

Ever seen the aluminum corrosion caused by the green stuff? Its not any better than Dexcool.

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I've been using the "green stuff" ever since I first saw the LOW COOLANT light come on in the beginning of this year.

 

You did completely flush your cooling system before changing the coolant type, right?

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I've been using the "green stuff" ever since I first saw the LOW COOLANT light come on in the beginning of this year.

 

You did completely flush your cooling system before changing the coolant type, right?

 

X2

 

If not, you could be in for some real fun.

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3800 are loud when cold. Its normal.

 

Now I dont know if you are hearing engine knock or piston slap from a cold piston.

NAhhhhhh. Not really. My 98 with ~159K on 'er (I've put on less than 5K since last winter) started up in our beautiful -40* Minnesota winters and had never had any engine noise, with the exception of a nice groan of the PS pump for a few seconds due to pumping molasses at that temp. Piston slap has been pretty much exclusive to the 60* V6's

 

x2... My 3800 never had a bit of engine noise on frigid days, much less warmer days... My 3100 on the other hand sounds like its going to come apart for the first 5 minutes...

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Well a lot of the 3X00 had a knocking problem when cold and that was because of the piston skirt actually smacking the cylinder wall.

 

Its not common, but it happened to 3800's.

 

 

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Since he says it goes away after 30 seconds, it's most likely a lifter making the noise. I don't recall hearing any lifters tick on S2 3800's, but I've heard plenty of Series I's with lifters ticking on cold starts.

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Don't know for sure if this is his problem, but I had one once that the pressure relief valve on the oil pump was sticking...kept the oil pressure at nearly nothing at startup....had to replace the oil pump. Drove that car another 50,000 miles with no further issues.

 

Another possiblility is the oil filter draining back into the crankcase while parked. On startup, the filter is nearly empty, and causes very low oil pressure until it refills.

 

 

Again, these may not be what's causing his problem, but they're things to think about.

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did you buy an E-CORE ACDELCO filter? as in CHEAP SHITTY NO GOOD CHAMPION LAB PRODUCED BUT BRANDED ACDELCO oil filter? THE END OF THE LINE IS NEAR FOR ACDELCO FILTERS.

 

the difference can be determined by looking into the filter. if it has a peforated metal tube inside, it is the old trusted good filter. if it has a plastic insert and you can see all the filter medium... DON'T, I repeat DON'T put that shitty filter design on your car.

 

 

do your intake, it is TIME. then change the oil again, and examine the filter you just put on. no put a purolator or wix filter on. NEVAR EVAR SACRIFICE when you buy an oil filter.

 

 

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did you buy an E-CORE ACDELCO filter? as in CHEAP SHITTY NO GOOD CHAMPION LAB PRODUCED BUT BRANDED ACDELCO oil filter? THE END OF THE LINE IS NEAR FOR ACDELCO FILTERS.

 

the difference can be determined by looking into the filter. if it has a peforated metal tube inside, it is the old trusted good filter. if it has a plastic insert and you can see all the filter medium... DON'T, I repeat DON'T put that shitty filter design on your car.

 

 

do your intake, it is TIME. then change the oil again, and examine the filter you just put on. no put a purolator or wix filter on. NEVAR EVAR SACRIFICE when you buy an oil filter.

 

 

And make sure you install a trans cooler!!

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PMed you about a friend just south of Springfield who has done dozens of L36/L67 gasket replacements before and could help you out if you wanted. Not sure how close to there you are, or how willing to travel you are. Also, I have a set of Factory Service Manuals for 99 Lumina/Monte Carlo that I am getting ready to put up for sale if you are interested. Check my For Sale thread later this week.

 

And I agree. Never skimp on an oil filter. That's how the original motor in my bonneville blew up.

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did you buy an E-CORE ACDELCO filter? as in CHEAP SHITTY NO GOOD CHAMPION LAB PRODUCED BUT BRANDED ACDELCO oil filter? THE END OF THE LINE IS NEAR FOR ACDELCO FILTERS.

 

the difference can be determined by looking into the filter. if it has a peforated metal tube inside, it is the old trusted good filter. if it has a plastic insert and you can see all the filter medium... DON'T, I repeat DON'T put that shitty filter design on your car.

 

 

do your intake, it is TIME. then change the oil again, and examine the filter you just put on. no put a purolator or wix filter on. NEVAR EVAR SACRIFICE when you buy an oil filter.

 

 

 

Whoop, just checked my ACdelco filter that I was going to put on... E-core! FAILLLLLLLL

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