killinprixs Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 She blew 3rd gear today , just revs while shifting into 3rd at slow speed, at high speeds, it shifts not smoothly but it does, Its still drivable in terms of highway... 4th, OD, but it just wont shift into 3rd at a slow speed. I have to strip everything off this 5 speed GP in the junkyard and hopefully everything will work out. Its probably going to be more work than im expecting but it will be worth it! driving a 5 speed TGP will be a lot of fun.. My other TGP (3400 topend swapped, 70m t-04b) need subframe bushings, chip needs retuning so hopefully i can get that car back in action within the next week so when the DDs tranny finally blows, im not stuck walking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killinprixs Posted May 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 I need to locate a new flywheel for this 5 speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSedan Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 apparantly i'm the only one that had this problem, but swapping a 5-speed into a TGP makes for one PITA car to drive. MAJOR bucking issues even after trying two different "5-speed/TGP" EPROMS and one was even dyno tuned at KAZ. i don't miss my old car one bit because of that. that's the main reason i'm into old school Turbo Dodges nowadays.....a factory 5-speed turbo car that runs RIGHT. if i were to get another TGP/TSTE, i would NOT do another Getrag 282 swap. sure it was LOTS of fun, but for a daily driver it was hell. was not worth it at all. i think that bucking issue could be resolved though, namely a custom made Turbo Dodge style "bobble strut" between the subframe and transmission to help with engine movement. a 3400 top end swap would help as well as well as a larger turbo. also, you might want to get a Getrag 282 with J/L body gearing - it wouldn't be so damn steep in 1st and 2nd gear and you'd have more overdrive in 5th gear as well. BUT, you would need a W-body Getrag 282 case with J/L Getrag 282 internals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullet Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 She blew 3rd gear today , just revs while shifting into 3rd at slow speed, at high speeds, it shifts not smoothly but it does, Its still drivable in terms of highway... 4th, OD, but it just wont shift into 3rd at a slow speed. I have to strip everything off this 5 speed GP in the junkyard and hopefully everything will work out. Its probably going to be more work than im expecting but it will be worth it! driving a 5 speed TGP will be a lot of fun.. My other TGP (3400 topend swapped, 70m t-04b) need subframe bushings, chip needs retuning so hopefully i can get that car back in action within the next week so when the DDs tranny finally blows, im not stuck walking! X2!!!! just don't be hard on it, and be sure you have a spare handy or atleast a rebuild kit. one of my buddies did the swap and it was either 2nd or 3rd gear...but it started to pop out of gear after he put it in. just be careful. if you need any points let me know, I have a write up on the swap for your viewing plessure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killinprixs Posted May 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 Thanks guys, i know they're not that strong but im im not hard on it hopefully it will last a bit. My buddy put a j-body in his and ran 10 psi and blew it in half on his first 1/4 mile run... Bullet if you have a writeup, that would be great because i was trying to read Kuntzies old TGP forum page for dropping your subframe and pulling the 282 but the forum is down and i need to find the definate easiest way to pull the parts at the junkyard. does anyone know what size the axle hub nut is on a 282? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bake82 Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 Thanks guys, i know they're not that strong but im im not hard on it hopefully it will last a bit. My buddy put a j-body in his and ran 10 psi and blew it in half on his first 1/4 mile run... Bullet if you have a writeup, that would be great because i was trying to read Kuntzies old TGP forum page for dropping your subframe and pulling the 282 but the forum is down and i need to find the definate easiest way to pull the parts at the junkyard. does anyone know what size the axle hub nut is on a 282? 36 mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullet Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 Thanks guys, i know they're not that strong but im im not hard on it hopefully it will last a bit. My buddy put a j-body in his and ran 10 psi and blew it in half on his first 1/4 mile run... Bullet if you have a writeup, that would be great because i was trying to read Kuntzies old TGP forum page for dropping your subframe and pulling the 282 but the forum is down and i need to find the definate easiest way to pull the parts at the junkyard. does anyone know what size the axle hub nut is on a 282? considering it's at a junkyard I'd just tear apart the motor and lif the trany straight up and out. unless they allow you to use a hoist to lift the car off the subframe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 Our axle nuts are all 35 mm, but 36 works. Pulling the Getrag out the fenderwell isn't that bad, but in a junkyard it might be easier to just pull the whole motor since you prolly don't have to worry about putting it back in. You'll never get your 4T60 out through the fenderwell, so your motor will have to come out the altogether too. Autozone might have new flywheels, if you can't get the j/y one resurfaced. also, you might want to get a Getrag 282 with J/L body gearing - it wouldn't be so damn steep in 1st and 2nd gear and you'd have more overdrive in 5th gear as well. BUT, you would need a W-body Getrag 282 case with J/L Getrag 282 internals. hey Josh, I have to add this.. I've done extensive research on the Getrags lately, and the W-body Getrag has the lowest Getrag gearing available. I counted the teeth on my gears and compared it to numerous GM manuals and information, and there are simply none that are any lower, for any gear. see my post here: http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=67253.msg841187 edit: silly spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patgizz Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 josh i have zero bucking issues with my 5 speed TGP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killinprixs Posted May 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 tear apart the motor and lift tranny up and out... how? unbolt the lower tranny mount ,will i have enough room to separate the transmission and lift it up and out with the pressure plate still on the motor? Otherwise how high would i have to jack the car to drop the subframe on one side and rip it out? Is the rack going to give me problems? Also i went and looked at the car again today the shifter flops around, maybe has a broken cable? maybe thats why the cars in the junkyard....was inspected 05 still not sure what year the car is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted May 9, 2008 Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 For the year, check the 10th digit of the VIN: J = 1988 K = 1989 L = 1990 Are you going to have access to a lift at the junkyard? Or no? If so, take the whole thing out as one, engine and tranny. -Remove front wheels -Unbolt 35mm axle nuts (well, don't forget to have someone holding the brakes if they work, or keep the other wheel on the ground to hold the hub still) -Either remove 4 hub bolts from rear of knuckle, or pop ball joint/tierods off knuckle and swing strut assembly out of the way to remove the axle -Unbolt lower motor mount on passenger side (2 nuts on subframe), unbolt tranny mount on driver's side (2 nuts inside bottom of subframe) -Remove airbox -Disconnect wiring from motor/tranny.. you're gonna want the connectors on the tranny + some wire to be safe. Unplug injector harness (3 plugs near front passenger side of engine bay), remove ground wire from tranny bolt, power wires from starter.. can't remember what else. There's also a plug on the rack that's connected to the wiring near the tranny plugs, get that one too. -Unbolt exhaust - always the funnest part... -Remove shifter cables -Remove Clutch MS from firewall, it's between the brake MS and frame. I think you just need to remove a bolt and twist it, and it should come out. Don't forget to disconnect the linkage from the clutch pedal beforehand. -Remove upper dogbone mounts from engine -Yank it That should be it. You might want to remove all the shit on the driver's side, like the cruise control, etc to get it out of the way. Other stuff you need: clutch pedal, clutch pedal cruise cutout switch (on pedal mount assembly), clutch switch (on floor behind pedal), shifter & cables (make sure you get the shifter brackets and the threading pieces it uses to attach to the floorpan, they're different from the auto shifter), console top piece, AXLES!, tranny mount, intermediate shaft bracket (between engine/tranny on passenger side).. that's it maybe? & I have a wiring guide posted somewhere on the changes you'll have to make in your car later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSedan Posted May 9, 2008 Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 hey Josh, I have to add this.. I've done extension research on the Getrags lately, and the W-body Getrag has the lowest Getrag gearing available. I counted the teeth on my gears and compared it to numerous GM manuals and information, and there are simply none that are any lower, for any gear. see my post here: http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=67253.msg841187 very interesting! thanks for taking the time to dig in there and find out! i was going off of info that had been posted on 60*V6 and wikipedia. i am not sure why my car had such bad bucking problems. maybe it was because i turbocharged a previously NA 3.1L engine? i think i remember someone saying the crank was different in regards to the CPS, so maybe that was causing the issues. i was using new motor and tranny mounts, and had poly FFP dogbones. car was fun as hell and ran great but it was such a PITA to drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullet Posted May 12, 2008 Report Share Posted May 12, 2008 the crank on a stock TGP is different than a 3.1L N/A motor, as far as the driveability issues, the moment I put poly mounts on my 99 GTP I noticed alot more tightness and jumpiness when I accelerated. is that kinda what you're talking about? Krenzy has poly's on his too and hasn't complained about bucking, at least not while I've known him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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