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TGP progress thread- Update pg 6, some engine pics


Psych0matt
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So, short and simple, I'm not getting any spark. where should I start? I've never had to bring a car back after sitting for 2 years :lol:

 

-plugs are good (enough)

-oil pressure good

-cranks just fine

 

what else do you want to know?

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definetly check fuses and all connections first (make sure the ICM's all plugged in). If none of the coils are firing, the ICM's not getting power/ECM signal, or it's fried. Backtrack your way to the ECM, piece by piece, if need be. Check the crank position sensor also.

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fuses, relays, coil packs maybe?

 

x2! That's where I'd look. Even if you're sure that the wires and plugs are "ok", it would be a good idea to change them if the car was sitting for 2 years IMHO.

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fuses, relays, coil packs maybe?

 

x2! That's where I'd look. Even if you're sure that the wires and plugs are "ok", it would be a good idea to change them if the car was sitting for 2 years IMHO.

yeah, that'll be like the first thing I do once I get it running, but I want to get everything back to normal first, then start upgrading what i need to. I'll check it out in a bit, but right now the price is right is on :lol:

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definetly check fuses and all connections first (make sure the ICM's all plugged in). If none of the coils are firing, the ICM's not getting power/ECM signal, or it's fried. Backtrack your way to the ECM, piece by piece, if need be. Check the crank position sensor also.

what he said.

 

to rule out a bad plug wires, borrow one off the vert and check for spark off each coil with it.

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you can always have the icm bench-tested. do you have extra coils and icm from the parts car? maybe you could swap those over quick and see if theres a difference. oh, yeah, you have the vert. since you know all thats good, you could start throwing parts at it.

 

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Is the SES light on?? If it is and the fuel checks out good and everything else is good then i'm 99% sure its the cps I had one fail before in my 92. be very very careful changing it if you break the head off your ****** then the frame has to come down to get it out like what happened to me so g/l

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well, I know one reason I'm not getting spark, a blown 10amp ignition fuse :lol: we had replaced it because it was missing at first, and I don't think we ever thought to check it again. battery is charging, I'll see about cranking it over in a few hours with a new fuse

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everything looks ok, a little dirty, but nothing worn through or broken on the underside of the fuse box. If I take my multimeter to it, what should I be looking for, and how should I have it set to check?

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possible. the underside looked a little corroded right at the fuse block, but not bad to the point where they should be shorting out. Yeah, bring an ECM and maybe an injector or two, although I don't think the injectors should be bad

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searched around this morning, didn't see anything shorting out, but its still popping the fuse pretty good. what other grounds/power cables should I check for? would the starter, alternator, anything like that be related?

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Check the igntion wires in the column, make sure nothing in there has been messed around with.

 

Check grounding points, and clean them up with a wire brush.

 

Follow ICM, crank sensor, etc.... wiring back, make sure nothing is frayed.

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the under column wiring looks like it's never been touched, but there is a plug that isn't plugged in, and i vaguely remember seeing that somewhere before. it has a black, grey, and orange wires coming out of it, kinda from behind the stereo, but pretty much between the stereo and steering wheel. probably not the cause of any problems, but what is it?

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UPDATE:

 

So, It has to be in the ICM. I unplugged it, no fuse popping, plugged it back in, fuse popping. Now I'll have to find a known good one and swap it, see if that fixes the problem.

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UPDATE:

 

So, It has to be in the ICM. I unplugged it, no fuse popping, plugged it back in, fuse popping. Now I'll have to find a known good one and swap it, see if that fixes the problem.

you could take the bad one to the store, have it bench-tested, have a new one bench-tested, buy the new one, then take the bad one to another store under a defective return, unless youre a super-honest person.
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UPDATE:

 

So, It has to be in the ICM. I unplugged it, no fuse popping, plugged it back in, fuse popping. Now I'll have to find a known good one and swap it, see if that fixes the problem.

you could take the bad one to the store, have it bench-tested, have a new one bench-tested, buy the new one, then take the bad one to another store under a defective return, unless youre a super-honest person.

 

x2. Except most places don't let you return electronics, and chances are you would just get another working one.

 

I pocket them left and right at parts galore.

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