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when's it time for a new radiator?


THe_DeTAiL3R
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Well today I put in new coolant, T-stat, and some 'Water Wetter' additive.

 

Normal operating range on my car is around 200*... (1/3rd on the guage). It doesn't take much for it to go to half, in the city it will go up high but the fan kicks in.

 

On my old GP (and this car, when I first got it) normal operating range would be right around 1/4 on the guage, so I dunno if it's running hotter than it should.

 

I've done what I can as far as maintenace... the car just passed emissions and the engine doesn't seem to make any noise or have other issues that might cause problems :shrug:. The whole cooling system has a little bit of slippery stuff around it (not oil.. maybe just old coolant I would guess?). The reservior has a little bit of brown crap in it (rust?).

 

The rad doesn't LOOK too bad, it's never had any leaks that I know of. But could it be needing replacement soon?

 

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Its tough to say without seeing it myself,but that could be signs of possible oil contamination in the coolant.Or it can simply be the oldd stuff still in the engine and heater core mixing with the new stuff.

 

Aside from that,what I do every few years if I keep a car a long time or etc,I take the rad out and give it a through flush,clean the fins and also flush out the condensor fins if its dirty,and they usually are.If it has alot of rust,I try and flush the block out until it runs clear.Depends on engine..if engine has Knock Sensor in drain plug area,I take that out to flush the block or remove a pipe plug if it will come off.

 

I also back flush the coolant on the V6's by removing the hoses off the heater core and flush it with water.Then I do it through the metal line in front of the engine.Depends on the car and coolant routing pipes.

 

You also didnt mention changing the rad cap...its good maint. to change them every few years to keep system under proper pressure,iF said car usues a pressure cap.Even a weak or old cap can cause it to not cool as efficient,but thats usually rare though.

 

Just sharing what I do every few years to ensure it stays clean and cool around there.These Hot days coming in are sucking bad and harder on the car than in the past.

 

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If its hot out, it would surpise me to see the temp up there. Mine runs right at 200* maybe a touch more. If you sit and idle in traffic I would expect the temp to climp until you start moving or a fan kicks on. Aside from the little bit of color that you said, it kinda seems somewhat normal from your description. I mean are you sitting in traffic when the temp goes up, or driving down the road?

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If its hot out, it would surpise me to see the temp up there. Mine runs right at 200* maybe a touch more. If you sit and idle in traffic I would expect the temp to climp until you start moving or a fan kicks on. Aside from the little bit of color that you said, it kinda seems somewhat normal from your description. I mean are you sitting in traffic when the temp goes up, or driving down the road?

 

It sounds like your car.... yea it cools back down when i start moving again.

 

Mine is in Celsius (stupid Canada... why can't they leave this in F???) but it doesn't matter... this owner's manual has it in F and it looks the same otherwise. Here's what mine looks like at normal temp. It will be touching the "2" (1 in my case... 100C)

 

temp4fg.jpg

 

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i've found when a radiator goes bad, the cooling system will have lots of weird problems, system not holding pressure, overheating while in motion

 

i'd imagine it starts with the car running hotter and notter normally, which is why i'll be replacing my z34s radiator soon, just to be safe.

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Heres a simple copy and paste from a website that had info on coolant/radiator systems.You can do a google search as well to read different articles to see if you find something to answer in more depth.Aside from that,this copy/paste I have below is very good basic stuff.

 

A Few Important Things to Remember

 

Heed these cooling system maintenance tips and you're well on your way to ensuring your cooling system won't let you down:

 

Tip #1: Keep your engine and engine compartment, as well as your radiator fins and grill, as clean as possible. A clean engine runs much cooler - and it's much easier to work on.

 

Tip #2: Replace coolant at or before factory recommended intervals with the proper type, mixture and volume of coolant. Always allow the coolant system to rid itself of air before installing the radiator cap.

 

Tip #3: Replace all cooling system hoses - upper and lower radiator hoses, bypass hoses, heater hoses, manifold coolant hoses and any other hoses on your vehicle - whenever you even suspect there may be a problem. All hoses should be replaced at least every two years.

 

Tip #4: Replace the thermostat with the original temperature setting equivalent. The electronics in your vehicle may use that setting for other controls. Do not substitute under any circumstances.

 

Tip #5: Replace the radiator/expansion tank cap with the original pressure setting and OE-type equivalent. Some aftermarket substitutions do not seal and hold pressure properly on foreign-manufactured cars. Again, don't substitute.

 

Tip #6: Adjust or replace the water pump drive belt (external) at recommended intervals or more frequently, if required. Check belts whenever you're working on any coolant system components.

 

Tip #7: Replace your water pump with an OEM/OES pump at the first signs of trouble or when your timing belt and tensioner are replaced. Watch for signs of overheating - you don't want to break down in the hot sun when your water pump fails.

 

Tip #8: Replace the fan clutch and/or fan blade as needed (if applicable). Your car's temperature gauge is often your best guide as to when your fan clutch needs attention.

 

Tip #9: Replace temperature sensors as required by diagnosis. Leave troubleshooting of your sensors to experts who have the proper equipment and diagrams.

 

Tip #10: Keep your entire vehicle properly maintained because of the effect timing, idle speed, exhaust and other systems have on your engine's temperature. Your car's cooling system is designed to function with all other systems operating properly. It cannot make up for a poorly operating or overheating engine condition.

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If the needle starts climbing past the 3/4 mark when you're driving down the road, then yes your radiator is suspect. On a car that old, the possibility of it being the radiator is quite good. Fortunately, brand-new radiators don't cost very much, and they usually have improved performance over OEM.

 

My old Crapalier was having overheating problems (the temp gauge would approach the "red zone" while driving down the road) so I bought a $125 Modine 3-row radiator for it, and it was almost too efficient! After installing the Modine, the needle on the temp gauge never climbed past half-way, even in 100* heat...

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Like the others have said if its overheating when driving down the road, its time to change it. But when your sitting in traffic, not moving, thats normal. Since theres no fan running all the time, just when it gets to a certian temp ( 220* F ) But if it doesnt cool down even with the fans going, then yes the radiator is more than likely to blame. But since you said it cools down when you start moving again,I wouldnt worry.

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Like the others have said if its overheating when driving down the road, its time to change it. But when your sitting in traffic, not moving, thats normal. Since theres no fan running all the time, just when it gets to a certian temp ( 220* F ) But if it doesnt cool down even with the fans going, then yes the radiator is more than likely to blame. But since you said it cools down when you start moving again,I wouldnt worry.

 

I totally agree with 19Cutlass94...what you described is exactly what my cutlass does...normal driving it sits under the half way mark....stopped in traffic rises up...slowly then recommence driving it goes back down....the fan only goes on when I`m really stuck in traffic ..other wise just up when stopped down when driving...

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radiator shmadiator. I've used the same radiator in two vehicles logging around 240,000 miles and it is now going into a third for another 240,000 miles. :P Look for cracks on the plastic or damage or rust to the fins. If you are losing fluid out the bottom on the radiator are and and over heating... replace!

 

 

I guess they just make the chevy shit stronger, at least the two Luminas I had wouldn't die that is. thats why only chevy parts are goin into my new cutlass... which already had a tranny and engine replaced befoer I bought it and they are bad again. go figure.

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