Garrett Powered Posted May 28, 2006 Report Share Posted May 28, 2006 I have been reading up on what everyone is talking about the big 3 and it does not really apply to GM w-body cars to well so I have come up with what I believe is the big 5 to bring us out of the darkness. lol. 1. block to frame. first remove the grounding stud with an E6 reverse star bit and scrape off paint 2. block to battery. 3. battery to core support. more scraping/sanding here makes headlights brighter. 4. ground the amp to the frame with 18 inch or shorter wire. 1-4 are all grounds. 5. power wire from alt-->battery-->amp same gauge all the way. the factory charge wire should NOT be used anymore. remember to take off and throw away all factory ground cables because they are junk now and not be needed as long as you built some strong cables with good crimps and heat shrink the ends, etc.. I sprayed the studs down with carb cleaner then coated the threads with kopr-shield to improve ground continuity and seal out contaminents. dipped all the wire ends in it too before crimping and heat shrinking that way no oxygen or anything can turn them green again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted May 28, 2006 Report Share Posted May 28, 2006 I would also recommend replacing the wire from the positive battery terminal to the Auxillary terminal with a 4ga wire... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted May 28, 2006 Report Share Posted May 28, 2006 The 'Big 3' certainly does apply to W-body cars. And by no means should you replace wires while doing this upgrade unless one of them is bad. I dont know what your talking about in replacing all of them. When I did mine, I went from the battery to the alt. From the battery to the AUX post. From the battery to the ground above the radiator, then from that same ground to the engine block. Thats all you need. http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801;p= 1) Leave the stock wiring attached after you're done. Don't replace the stock wiring, add onto it. Current will take the path of least resistance anyway, so replacing the stock wire will only make more work for yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted May 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2006 that quote made me laugh why the hell would you leave the corroded 6 ga factory wire on there to just sit and foul up the new 2 ga cable you just built when you gotta take off the paint and corrosion and clean it all up anyway? Its not going to help in any way now, just clutter up and make it look all clumsy and retarded. honestly....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted May 29, 2006 Report Share Posted May 29, 2006 Sorry I dont and many other people dont have any corrosion. If you know how to do it right, it will look good. But theres no point in trying to argue. Whatever works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted May 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2006 the only contact area from the frame to the cable is the threads unless you use kopr shield to improve the contact or scrape the paint off. they come from the factory that way. I believe it is worth a constructive argument since the grounds are the most important part of the electrical system on any car. there is also a drop in efficiency with any non soldered contact like for instance a crimp, a ring terminal, a grounding stud, or any threaded contacts, a wiring harness, etc. its just one more obstacle for the power to have to travel through, corroded or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puggsley456 Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 The 'Big 3' certainly does apply to W-body cars. And by no means should you replace wires while doing this upgrade unless one of them is bad. I dont know what your talking about in replacing all of them. When I did mine, I went from the battery to the alt. From the battery to the AUX post. From the battery to the ground above the radiator, then from that same ground to the engine block. Thats all you need. http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801;p= 1) Leave the stock wiring attached after you're done. Don't replace the stock wiring, add onto it. Current will take the path of least resistance anyway, so replacing the stock wire will only make more work for yourself. ^ Everything he said x2 Dont remove the factory wires! There is no need to. I did it the same as 19Cutlass94 did and it works. Be sure to fuse the alt to batt wire too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 Thats one thing I didnt do, was fuse the wire from alt to battery. I wasnt sure what size fuse I should use, so I didnt put on there. ( although all I need is the fuse I have the holder ) BTW, Thanks for that link Puggsley456. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted June 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 the big 3 is vague, but applies to all cars no doubt. no scientific proof indicates that the stock wires will benefit after upgrades, in fact it states that it takes the path of least resistence and splitting it/reducing contact area by seperation is not helping any or do you guys think it will? do you guys have block to chassis grounds on newer w- body cars? or just block to core support like 19cutlass94 said? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puggsley456 Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 the big 3 is vague, but applies to all cars no doubt. no scientific proof indicates that the stock wires will benefit after upgrades, in fact it states that it takes the path of least resistence and splitting it/reducing contact area by seperation is not helping any or do you guys think it will? do you guys have block to chassis grounds on newer w- body cars? or just block to core support like 19cutlass94 said? Why else do SPL competitors run multiple runs of wire as aposed to single runs of larger cable off of bus bars? Now I agree that the factroy wire may not be used under normal circumstances. But if the demand for current is there....it will definetally be an asset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted June 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2006 spl competition? I laugh at those guys. how about a competition for lowest/longest carrying excursion type bass. who wants to wear earplugs in their own car because the high bass is so friggin loud and annoying? no I still dont think that stock wires would ba an asset there either, as its another obstacle that the current dont need. high bass doesnt use close to the current of low bass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supreme Cutlass Posted June 2, 2006 Report Share Posted June 2, 2006 spl competition? I laugh at those guys. how about a competition for lowest/longest carrying excursion type bass. who wants to wear earplugs in their own car because the high bass is so friggin loud and annoying? no I still dont think that stock wires would ba an asset there either, as its another obstacle that the current dont need. high bass doesnt use close to the current of low bass. C'mon, this doesn't need to be an argument, don't try to start one. The point is to run multiple wires instead of beefing up the old ones. There you go. On a sidenote, I'm not into beefing up my whole electrical system, so could I see a good performance boost by replacing the old cables with 2 gauge battery cables? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted June 2, 2006 Report Share Posted June 2, 2006 Do not replace the factory wiring! You add onto it. Only replace the factory cables if they no longer work. If you use 4g wiring, it will do everything you need it to. Im done arguing in this topic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted June 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2006 Do not replace the factory wiring! You add onto it. Only replace the factory cables if they no longer work. If you use 4g wiring, it will do everything you need it to. Im done arguing in this topic. sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supreme Cutlass Posted June 2, 2006 Report Share Posted June 2, 2006 Do not replace the factory wiring! You add onto it. Only replace the factory cables if they no longer work. If you use 4g wiring, it will do everything you need it to. Im done arguing in this topic. I DON'T want to sink a bunch of money into it, I just want to replace the old stuff. If I can't get a performance boost out of just that , I'll just leave it unmodified. So yay or nay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted June 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2006 I dyno'ed my car right after I did the big 5 so I dont have before/after #s, however its proven for gains on the dyno of 3-5 hp over good stock cables up to 10-15 hp over corroded ones. so to answer your question, definately and if you order from parts express catalog, not gonna sink in too much $$. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted June 2, 2006 Report Share Posted June 2, 2006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puggsley456 Posted June 2, 2006 Report Share Posted June 2, 2006 I dyno'ed my car right after I did the big 5 so I dont have before/after #s, however its proven for gains on the dyno of 3-5 hp over good stock cables up to 10-15 hp over corroded ones. so to answer your question, definately and if you order from parts express catalog, not gonna sink in too much $$. Ummm......ok...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted June 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2006 I dyno'ed my car right after I did the big 5 so I dont have before/after #s, however its proven for gains on the dyno of 3-5 hp over good stock cables up to 10-15 hp over corroded ones. so to answer your question, definately and if you order from parts express catalog, not gonna sink in too much $$. Ummm......ok...... whats bs? I read it in a magazine that was modding out hondas and mazdas, they were actually getting more power out of their cars on the dyno so no joke, they were getting more dyno horsepower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted June 3, 2006 Report Share Posted June 3, 2006 Ok, wires have absolutly nothing to do with how much power an engine makes. All they do is carry current to make electric parts function. ( such as sensors, digital guages etc etc ) The only thing that determines how much power an engine makes, is the actual engine! Wires just make it run, and run properly ( as one would hope ) Adding bigger wires will only keep your electrical system from dimming/dipping too low. Your engine will make the same amount of power at 11v as it does at 14v. The only difference is is that your hurting your computer at 11v since its just too low. ( really anything below 13.0v is not good ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted June 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2006 a dyno doesnt lie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supreme Cutlass Posted June 3, 2006 Report Share Posted June 3, 2006 a dyno doesnt lie I don't think your electrical system had much to do with it, it probably had to do more with the weather..or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianhasadd Posted June 3, 2006 Report Share Posted June 3, 2006 So you gained Horsepower by putting a new system with new wiring in your car??? HAHAHAHAHA :lol: :smilielol: :smilielol: :thumbsdown: :nono: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runt Posted June 3, 2006 Report Share Posted June 3, 2006 I dyno'ed my car right after I did the big 5 so I dont have before/after #s, however its proven for gains on the dyno of 3-5 hp over good stock cables up to 10-15 hp over corroded ones. so to answer your question, definately and if you order from parts express catalog, not gonna sink in too much $$. Are you seriously THAT fucking retarded? 10-15 hp by rewiring the electrical system? Maybe when whores fly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted June 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2006 I didnt say I got any gains dumbass, I said I dont know, because I did not do before/ after pulls. If you could read words and sentences and comprehend them with any intelligence you would have picked up on that. I READ in a magazine that OTHER people had done before/ after pulls and gained actual horsepower. sorry I answered someones question with nonfictional info, sorry. Its not like I printed that in their magazine, I was just telling them what I read a few years ago and no I dont have the magazine or even remember the name of it or the article. I have seen some really bad grounds and the car would barely run, so yes it would do at least a 10 hp gain on the dyno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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