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Found 472 results

  1. Long story short, I have a laptop that functions perfectly aside from having a battery that doesn't batter. To spare some details, I reinstalled a fresh XP copy, tweaked some things, and got centrafuse mostly running how I want (other than some plugins and codecs for video). I have about 12 seconds until complete hibernate from button push, and about 15 seconds from cold start out of hibernate until music starts. My hurdles are switching it on and off. My plans are to get a DC-DC laptop adapter that's the proper voltage and whatnot (about $14 online), and then wire a cigarette lighter in somewhere so that it's easily disconnected. I haven't rewired anything yet since it's cold, but I'll probably run a thicker power wire to a distribution block, and then run my amp and this off of it. So, with the power mostly planned, here's kind of the setup I'm going for: If I hardwire it with a DC-DC plug, and then just have something "push" the button after a few seconds (after crank), that would do 100% of what I need it to. Basically this turn key on power comes on, utilizing remote wire in the same manner as an amp? 5-10 second delay to allow voltage spike from crank, crank and start button press once started (doesn't have to involve the 500rpm thing, 5-10 seconds will do the same thing, just on a timer instead of an rpm signal) the issue will be going into hibernate, having it retain power for maybe 30 seconds before cutting off turn key off maintain power, button push 30 second delay cut all power I'm open to thoughts and ideas. I know I can buy something to do all this, but why spend over $50 for something I should be able to do for less than $20? I may solder in a secondary power button lead off of the original, so that I can basically run a remote button somewhere if I need to for testing purposes. My goal is to use this primarily as a carputer, but maintaining it's laptoppiness. for reference, it's a celeron 2.4ghz processor, with 700 some megs of ram, so plenty to run audio and some decent video OH! I almost forgot! My plans to start are to run a cd HU in the foxglove, and maintain stock speaker setup, and just run this into the aux jack for now, so the only issue with this is finding the happy medium of two separate volume controls. And then of course I'll run a touchscreen in the stock HU location. I thought about putting it where the DIC is, but it's gonna be too difficult I think with the shifter
  2. WHERE: Highbanks Metropark in Columbus and lodging at Motel 6 on High Street. Park:,-83.02755,12z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x676a1752a0d79aac Hotel:,-83.015487,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0xdb852f5e8c2c84c WHEN: Saturday, June 27th around 12PM WHO: Hopefully you and a lot of other W-Body folks WHAT: BBQ and hang out -- I know there are junkyards in the area as well. WHY: Because it's awesome. HOW: Hopefully by automobile. I have booked a block of 15 rooms for Friday and Saturday night at $45.99+tax/night -- all you have to do is show up that day and pay for one of the rooms. I need to get a headcount and attempt to work out if I will need to reserve any more rooms so nobody gets left out but there is also a RRI butting up against the Motel 6 property so that makes it a little easier if we have a larger turnout. -- there's an event on FaceBook I will keep updated. Please invite people that I may have missed. I hope to get some new faces at this meet as I know there are some folks in Dayton that have W-Body events that would be likely to attend.
  3. Hey guys I'm new here, just trying to sell an engine. I picked this motor up a few years ago as a backup but I've got no use for it now as I sold the Monte Carlo I had. The motor is a complete 1991-1993 long block, from cylinder heads to oil pan. It includes every engine sensor, water pump, and alternator all brand new. There is not a used part on this engine, not even a bolt. I will include a box of used parts with the motor, along with the factory service manuals for the engine. There is a 91-93 lower intake manifold, fuel rail, 2 sets of fuel injectors, upper intake manifold, engine cover, and several (Maybe 4-5?) valve covers. Shipping is on you. I can build a crate for the engine and have it sent via freight, or you can drive out to Denver, Colorado and pick it up. Price is firm at $1,200. Thanks!
  4. I bought a 93, 3.1 long block with 19,633 k from a Lumina for my 93 GTP and now I need the remaining parts such as module, etc. So if you have a bad 3.1 or know of some one please contact me. I would like to find one source with all the parts. thanks
  5. Made a thread about engine issues, but sourced an engine. Topic is no longer needed anymore.
  6. A few months ago I purchased a 1994 Cutlass Supreme SL from a guy in Palmerton, PA. My first car was a 2002 Olds Alero sedan, had many memories in that little thing. Crashed into a tree and then I didn't have a car for a while, then graduation present time? Nope just one big one from my uncle and I got a 1997 GTI vr6, and man let me tell you what... ALWAYS LISTEN TO THE WISE. My father kept telling me it's not going to be worth it, but it's my dream car, why turn it down? Drove it for about 3 days out of the 9 months I had it due to repairs and the mechanic working about as slow as a rock. I love my cutlass and I hope to learn while on this forum.
  7. Well after figuring out that my 98' Monte has a "change oil soon" light system, but never seen it working I pulled apart the dash cluster to see if the bulb was blown, found out GM never installed the bulb for it, or for the security light, and there was a couple other holes they could have friggin' used for a cruise control light, but go figure it didn't even have the anything on the faceplate for those holes. Excuse my rant, first GM product and things are already irritating the crap out of me. Well after swapping the volt light bulb over to the "chg oil soon" light to see if it would work, and finding out it fully worked and was able to reset the oil change system. Put it all back together, drove it around the block to make sure everything worked, and the speedo is slow to get up to the proper speed, the needle acts like it's catching on something and jumps until it gets to the proper speed, same thing for deceleration. Will be sitting at a dead stop and it will still read 10-20MPH until it catches up. What's wrong here? Tried playing around with the needle while the plexiglass was off to see if I could get it to smooth out, but no amount of fiddling with it made any difference. I really don't want to hear the words. "Replace the cluster" EDIT: Ignore the dumbass lol aparently when taking the cluster out, it fell forward and pushed the need far enough in for the base to drag on the faceplate. Went out to get some dinner, and at a stoplight I grabbed the base of the needle gently and pulled it ever so slightly away from the faceplate and it is working fine again. I still wonder why there was never any bulb installed for the Security and Oil Change lights though. Must have been built on a friday. lol
  8. Hey Guys I recently purchased a Robo 3D printer. My brother and I went in halves on it, any way I planned on making a bunch of cool things I found on the sharing site they have to support it. I thought of some cool things I would want to make and the one that did cross my mind was the vacuum block clip that famously disappears off the TGP's Now I'm not knocking using string to hold those things in place but for the cars that actually can look good at a show with its hood up needs to lose that string. So I plan on barrowing one off my buddy to scan/measure so I can make aftermarket versions of them also be able to but a small logo on them to make them unique( so the GM infringment officer:confused: we have on this site, can't go running to the very company that could care less about a 20+ year old car they don't support anymore, won't be able to turn me in for it:lol:) So if you want it to say TGP or something I can add to it. It will be a bit as I figure out the software to make things but I have been printing some neat things off So this thread is just a heads up that I am getting back in the game of working on my cars and doing what little I can do to help everyone out here.
  9. hey i have a 2000 buick century original 3100 v6 then i swapped to 3400 v6 from impala now im going to swap a 3500 v6 Lx9 non vvt from a 2005 malibu now im nt new to engine swaps at all but my question is im nt understanding this "external crank trigger" why cant i swap in block crank sensor from my 3400 into the 3500 im talking bout the one for the coils and use my crank pully onto the 3500 n put my other crank sensor tht goes behind the pully im going to use my 3400 upper intake and coils please let me kn
  10. 2.8L V6 in 89 Cutlass. Vacuum line to EGR busted. Broke off right at the rubber distribution block that plugs into the throttle body, so I can't bridge the broken spot with a piece of hose or anything (in the past, I've bridged broken pieces with heatshrink tubing which worked great). Any ideas on how to fix? It's 4mm OD plastic line. I'd buy a replacement 4mm plastic vacuum line if I could find it. Had a thought I could push out the broken part out of the rubber block, stick a vacuum barb in there, and then connect a rubber hose from that to the remainder of the plastic line, but will 4mm ID vacuum hose fit snugly enough on it?
  11. OK, need help. I need to lay this out and get feedback as proof both of these garages are idiots, so here it goes, the complete story. 94 3.4. May 2013, broke serpentine belt, towed to garage. Replaced water pump, thermostat, belt, pulleys. Was told I had head gasket problems. Was leaking coolant somewhere when I picked up my car. Drove car to another garage, asked for pressure test to confirm. I was told there was a broken inlet valve on the bottom of the radiator, no way a pressure test could have been done on it to get to I had a bad head gasket. Took back to first garage, demanded they put radiator in my car, they did, no further leaks, no overeating problems, nothing. Drove all summer 2013 in 100+ heat with a/c going most days, top up or down. No problems of any kind. Parked it end of October for the winter. February, needed to use it to go pick up a dining room table with my trailer (it's got a factory installed trailer hitch), warmed it up, turned on the heat, blew nothing but cold air, froze my butt off for the 8 mile round trip. Parked it again for the rest of the winter. Saved up the money to get the "supposedly" blown head gaskets and decided to go ahead and have timing belt replaced at same time since it had been about 50K miles since being replaced, took it back to the garage that did the initial work with the water pump, radiator, etc., on August 31st. After 4 weeks and a lot of delays, got my car back on September 29. All seemed well. Drove for exactly 2 weeks. Went out one Monday morning to start it to go visit my brother in the hospital, it died. Tried again, it died. Got out to raise hood, oil all over my garage floor. Called garage to come get it, told them it looked like they might not have put my oil filter on tight or something, they towed it back to their garage. Called me the next day and said the oil sending unit was leaking, and oh by the way, you have a water leak. apparently they had let me leave the garage the first time, with a bad hose and didn't bother to replace it or even tell me about. After another 2 weeks, they were going to bring my car to my home since I had no way to come get it. So, manager was driving it to me, got about a mile from the store, overheated. towed it back to their garage. After another 7-10 of trying to figure out what was wrong, asked me if they could have it towed to another garage to get "correctly" diagnosed. A couple of days later, I get a phone call stating that the 2nd garage determined my heads had cracks in them and apparently the machine shop either missed it or something, so they were going to buy new heads for my car at their expense and fix it. Another week goes by. Winter is here, I have no ride, so they rent me a car to drive saying my car would be ready in a few days. Another week goes by. The 2nd shop is now telling them, they apparently repaired my heads, after I was told I was getting new ones, and now the block has pin holes in it, it's had them for over 2 years, and it's all "my fault" and the first garage isn't responsible for fixing my car as now my "piece of junk" car (their words) needs a whole new engine at a cost of over $6000. Next thing I know, my car is sitting in their parking lot torn down, they won't put it back together as "they won't be held responsible for it" and my rental car is yanked from me. So I am back on foot, no car, and their claims department is trying to say that for 2 years, my car has had pin holes in the block, can't be repaired, and they aren't going to do anything about it. Called today to find out when someone is going to put my car back together, waiting to hear that now. So, I need some professional opinions. Here is what I think. First garage that told me I needed head gaskets, replaced gaskets, let my car leave with a bad water hose, sent car to garage they have a "relationship" with (they send business back and forth), who are telling them I have been knowing driving my car for 2 years with a bad block, which is a lie. They repaired my heads apparently, put my car back together, guess what, still got hot I guess, so now instead of them standing behind that they told the first garage, the heads had cracks, now it's the engine block has pin holes and they aren't touching it again. Thoughts? And I guess I am going to have to sue them to get something done.
  12. ‚ÄčI'm rebuilding a "T" block and using a crane H260 cam. I've read that when others have used the 1:6 rockers with this set up that it doesn't run well, input? Also am thinking of using a northstar water pump pulley that is smaller to get more cooling.
  13. After today im almost done collecting parts for a topswap ill hav to source a short block i hav the tranny lined up getting the harness wednesday i hav the pcm on order i can almost hear the s/c whine now....mebbe i should get some tires
  14. Ive got a 96 supreme sl coupe bone stock The electronic climate control stays on all the time. Head unit is lite up and blower motor also runs when the car is off. Only way to shut it off is if I pull # 15 fuse in fuse block. Does anybody have any tips on how to troubleshoot this problem. THanks in advance
  15. Hey all. I am new to this platform but not to cars in general. I recently bought a 98 Regal GSX. It has a few mods but nothing extreme. Last night on the way home it just stopped running. No sputtering or anything, it was running fine then just suddenly cut off. It will crank but not fire. The fuel pump wasn't priming so I pulled it out and tested it directly off the battery, it still works fine. Which it should since its an AEM pump that's less then three months old. Anyway, I checked all the fuses and replaced both the relays, one labeled fuel pump and the other labeled fuel pump speed control. That didn't help so I broke out the voltmeter. I have power at the fuse block both at the fuse and at the input to the relay, but its not making it all the way back to the pump. I even tried jumping the relay connector pins 87 and 30 which if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly should have provided power to the pump but I still get none. I am at a loss here. The only other thing I can think of is maybe the factory security system is interfering? Any other ideas/suggestions? Please help, this car is my only transportation at the moment. Thanks.
  16. my brother was killed iin a car accident over 11 years ago....when he passed I inherited his 3.4l quad was blown up due to a timing belt failure=timiing iissue....we I got it I had a diifferent quad cam put in it and iiit's been in a shed up untill about 2 months ago....I haven't been able to drive for over 7 years and i am just about to pop the camshaft carriers and heads off it....I assumed I was putting the number 1 cylinder at TDC to pull the front cam carrier and head off....when i rotated the mark on the vibration dampener to what I assumed was TDC, it was actually the middle cylinder on the front cylinder bank that was at TDC....I have no books on this car or engine...II am not an idiot i am just being careful, I do not want to go to all the effort just to pull the pin on a grenade...II see a video was taken and with all the hype of it's "arrival" the guy fell off the planet....I am not really in need of a video...I may be on the wrong thread etc... I know it's been ten years since this thread was active but it has ironiically been over ten years since this engine was active per say....before I tore the it down i had a compression leak into my cooling system. When I took the lower intake manifold off I couldn't help but notice that the engine was torn down once before....they busted an ear off the intake and had it welded back on....I have no idea what else may have been done with the engine...I would like to think that the heads have remained on the engine since it was first assembled but again I am probably being rather optimistic....I see some rounding of the comshaft sprocket bolts and i figured it was a good place to stop and gain some input as far as how these engines are timed....I do not wish to advance or retared any of the cams...I just want to put this thing back to stock and put it back together hoping to enjoy the car for about 50,000 miles....again remaining very optimistic....thanks to any of those that can offer any insight....this car is a huge pain in the ass but I have over ten years of storage along with paying off his note at the bank, windshield, tires and every other nickel in between....i am too well vested into it just to pass it along to someone else or send it to the crusher...I am doing all the hoses and seals, distributor block-off o-ring and a new fuel pressure regulator....don't like one of the injectors either....yada yada yada.....thank you all for what info I have been able to find thus far!
  17. Has anyone tempted the idea of flipping the rear leaf to lower the lumina first gens? Maybe fab a block to make it not bottom out. I don't know if it's even possible just been thinking about it. Any insight on this would help. Maybe it's something worth trying and reporting back with results.
  18. I was in the market at the time. I liked the new front ends and cleaner lines for the Impala and especially the Monte Carlo. I also noticed that the 3400 V6 had been renovated some and had become a new 3500 V6 with cam-in-block VVT (variable valve timing), which was also new technology. I see more Impalas of these years on the road than I see Monte Carlos. That's normal - sedan versus specialty coupe. Many Impalas are used for company cars, security vehicles, government cars, taxi fleets, and law enforcement cars quite a bit. They're out there doing their jobs. If you know about these later 3500 and 3900 VVT Impalas and Monte Carlos, how have they performed? Are there any weak spots or quirks about them? Consumer Reports isn't digging on these in '06 and '07 form.
  19. I got to looking at some motors today. Could you put 3500 heads-non VVT matched to 3900 gaskets on a 3900 Block. Then match 3100/3400 lower manifold to the 3500 heads/gaskets. Bolt it all together and have a 3100 sleeper engine using the 3100/3400 sensors. Virtually having a Non-VVT 3900 running as a 3100/3400? Using the 3100/3400/3500 headers. Anyone ever attempted this? The parts should all interchange with some gasket matching with a dremel. I figured if you could do that, you could have the best parts of all those engines with a stock seeming setup. I don't want to hear about a complete swap, I want to know if there's any way you could do this Hybrid type setup with all these engines, since there setups are generally the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Elias1552

    L82 or LG8. ??

    It's time for a new block, and I don't have much money to spend on a build aftermarket engine for my 95 monte. If anyone knows if I can replace my stock 3.1 l82 with a newer and easier to find lg8 can you let me know. Keep in mind that everything else is stock.
  21. So one of my buddies is willing to sell me a complete L67 in parts minus the Supercharger. Everythings in good condition,engine block has been cleaned up and everything but i need to put everything back together. He told me that i could take the heads which have bigger valves (I presume) with L36 pistons and L67 internals to make it stronger and add a comp cam kit also... Anyway you guys have any suggestions?? I'm not looking for something really fast... just something a little bit more fun! Thanks
  22. So on the side of the road, got it going for 2 seconds, got half a block and she dies. Running for 5 minutes right now, no stalls, but I addressed the issue with new coils, new icm and new ignition relay. Still dies? New lock cylinder a while ago too. Does not throw any codes
  23. Hey everyone, my car has 232k on it, but the engine has been replaced and every connection has been cleaned (during engine install). Lately I've noticed my lights dimming a bit more than usual, and it's been getting worse. I have my charge wire (from alternator to fuse box stud) and ground wires upgraded, along with extra grounds from the battery to the body and from the body to the block. Also, I have the DIY alternator booster installed. The more the load, the more often it dims, mainly when I'm stopping. I can feel\hear the blower motor slow down, and see all the lights dim, and if I make ABS do something, they dim more. During my 6 months of troubleshooting on the ABS, I found the ABS pump can use up to 45 amps... I have no clue if this thing had been replaced or not so it could very well have 232k on it. My voltage at idle seems to hover around 14.5v, but whenever this happens, it happens so quick I don't see the voltage drop on torque pro. A friend of mine had an extra alternator I'm going to try today, but I was wondering if there is anything else you guys think it could be?
  24. I have a 1993 Buick Regal with a 3800 motor. I am having an issue with bubbles in the coolant and am trying to determine if it is a cracked block/head or just a bad head gasket. The car does not overheat and there is no mixing or coolant in oil or oil in coolant. The coolant reservoir does however get some bubbles in it when up to temp and I can feel bubbles in the hoses. It also seems to lack the power of my other regal with the 3800. Also I have very high oil pressure over 100 psi. Is there any sure way to determine what the cause of this is?
  25. I've replaced the t-stat on my car and make sure to bleed the cooling system but have still ended up feeling bubbles in the upper radiator hose. The car is a 1993 Regal 3800 with 110000 miles on it. The car does not overheat or loose much coolant but i am concerned it might have exhaust getting in the coolant. Any ideas on what it could be or what I should do would be great. I was thinking maybe a block sealer or something. Thanks Video link to bubbles in radiator:
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