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Found 323 results

  1. Ok any of you that have owned a 60 degree V6 such as the 3100 or 3400 will be familiar with this tube, it runs from the rear valve cover to the intake tube just in front of the throttle body. If you are like me you have probably attempted Teflon tape and or RTV to keep the valve cover end in with not much luck. I have searched for a rubber grommet without success and for years it has just rested in place. Well at the beginning of the year I was working on a GAGT with a 3400 and came up with a nice solid airtight fix. This is what is getting replaced, don't throw it out just yet, you will need part of it. You will need that tube ^ 2. Permatex Ultra black RTV 3. 1 FT of PVC hose 19/32, this will be cut to fit approximately. 4. 1x FORD PVC elbow AutoZone P/N 47032 Tools include a hack saw or serrated cutting tool for cutting the factory tube without bending or breaking it, a file or sandpaper for removing a lip on the PVC elbow and something to cut the 19/32 hose, it also helps to have the ICM/coil pack assembly removed. First get your engine ready for the mod/repair by removing the ICM assembly(I will assume you the reader can do this in your sleep, if not consult your repair manual you NOOB!){this is a joke we all started somewhere} Next locate your purchased FORD elbow and proceed to remove this ONE lip. The one on the side pointing UP in the pic, the other end can be worked into the 19/32 hose for an airtight bond without anything. I used a file and enjoyed a cold beer while doing so. Also note the flat "washer" area of the elbow where my thumb is, this is where you put the RTV and fix it to the rear valve cover. Now once the elbow is filed and the other end in the hose find the original tube and cut off the elbow that fits into the air intake tube. You can make the cut exactly at the elbow. That part fits right into the 19/32 hose. Place your newly created assembly into the rear valve cover and eyeball where you need to make your cut at the intake tube, then RTV the Ford elbow to the rear vale cover and insert the other end into the intake tube then let the RTV cure for about an hour. Pretty self explanatory but feel free to ask any questions should they arise. Update after relocating images! After several months everything holds up quite nice. Ive removed the air intake tube several times since this and the rear valve cover end stay nice and secure.
  2. MaD

    Mufflers.

    Anyways, so, I was at Murray's last night and I started browsing the exhaust aisle. I became intrigued by the mufflers that they had there. (I didn't know mufflers were so cheap!, I was under the assumption they'd be around $200, don't ask why... (midas)...) So anyways, There was some no-name brand for like $20 and a couple of Dynomax ones (I suppose I've heard good things about them). I saw the Dynomax "Super Turbo" muffler, as well as their "Ultraflo welded" something or other. Now, The "super turbo" was roughly $40 and the other one was $60. Initially, I assumed the more expensive one would be the better one, but then I started reading the back of the box with all the flow-rates and I started to wonder if the UltraFlo's 1,440cfm flow-rate was indeed something I'm looking for.... After all, that's seems a bit excessive.. The Super Turbo, on the other hand, was flowing somewhere around 350cfm (That seems a little low). When I looked at the design, I could see why it was such a drastic difference. The innards looked like a "z" , while the Ultraflo's was simply a straight pipe with holes going through some fiberglass. Then, I started to realize, "I really don't know what all these numbers mean". So here I am. Ok, well, I know that to gain performance, you must lose some back-pressure, but if you lose TOO much back-pressure, performance suffers and if I remember correctly, this is bad for the engine. (Any truth to this?) Well anyways, the part that I'm stuck at is the "cut-off" point. I don't know exactly when perforrmance starts to degrade. Basically, I want to squeeze out as much perfomance as I can by putting a new muffler on. (My car is slow enough as it is) Oh, I don't care about sound at all, so if losing backpressure makes the car loud as hell, so be it. Ok, now, for what I already have. (I don't even know if this makes a difference) I have pretty much stock everything. Stock cat, stock 2 1/4 piping (it IS 2 1/4, right?) , etc. I do have a warm-air intake (It's a K&N cone filter) So that's great in getting the air IN, but it needs to leave too. I also have a FDP chip (not sure if that matters)... Oh, and I don't have head work or anything like that done. So pretty much bone stock. I AM looking to buy a 2.5in catco high-flow converter (or ANY high-flow converter) one of these days. And if I can find a nice, cheap place, I might go with a custom 2.5in catback. But for now, I just wanna put in a muffler. I DO wanna get that Ultraflo (which is 2.5in in/out), but again, I'm not sure if that would make me lose too much back-pressure/performance. Also, if it's NOT too much, if I ever get the 2.5inch complete exhaust, will it be too much then? Gah, sorry if this is hard to decipher. Hopefully someone knows what I mean. One last thing, there shouldn't be a problem welding the 2.5in muffler to my existing 2 1/4in piping, right? they can just use a reducer or something, right? Thanks, and sorry this is such a long post. -MaD-
  3. Hows it going guys, had to get a new radiator due to a leak, wont use any kind of stop-leak unless the manufacturer agrees to buy me a new car. So i of course order the bigger radiator from AZ, got it and installed it all the while distracted enough to forget to space the damn cooling fans and the drivers side fan ate a hole into the radiator. No problem, under warranty got another coming. What im wondering is if anyone has had this situation before and what was used to space the fans out slightly enough to clear the radiator and on any of the w-body 3100`s out there are any known to have fan shrouds? Figured some washers would be good enough, dont know. Kind of drunk and just wanting to talk cars i guess.
  4. Pictures speak for themselves: The task really wasn't that hard, just took my time. I strongly believe there is no way you can get the center axle nut off without an impact. It wouldnt budge with a 24 inch breaker but the impact twisted it off in about 45 seconds. I then used a two jaw puller from harbor freight ($13 for three) to push the axle out of the wheel bearing. Of course I sprayed everything down with PB blaster the night before to help with the rust. Since the spring is shaped like a cone I used two sets of spring compressors because I was paranoid. Here is how much I had to compress the spring to get the upper mount back on. If you have an impact, you don't need the special tool, just beat up on it with your 15/16 socket. I reused the isolator as it looked just fine to me. Getting the assembly out I was able to do just fine by myself, but since I'm not a big guy I needed a helper to get it back into the wheel well. Once I got the upper mount in it was a one person job again. If you're unsure about your bearing plate, I found a good test to be when the car is on the ground, grab the bearing plate and try to turn it side to side. It should move about 3/4 of an inch side to side. My drivers side was frozen solid, passenger moved freely like the new one does. Oh one final thing, before I started I made numerious marks with a sharpie on the spring, isolators, mounts and strut assembly so I could line everything up the first time. I'm sure I would have been pretty pissed if I had to do something over. What it looks like with the assembly out
  5. I've got a '95 Olds Cutlass Supreme with an L67. I have cooling fans from a 2000 GTP on it; however, I'm a bit baffled about the way they operate. Both fans run on the low-speed setting. On the high speed setting, only the fan on the passenger's side runs. Is this correct? I checked the voltage on the driver's side fan motor, and it drops to 0 when on the high speed setting. It seems like both fans should run on the high speed setting to me (although I do not know the way the system works). I have had cooling problems with this thing since I put it together last August. It stays cool as long as it's not idling still for >20-30 min. I just replaced the original 3.1 radiator with a radiator with 3 additional rows (when counting vertically). The core of my original radiator was 34 rows tall, while the newly installed one was 37. The radiator shop I purchased the radiator from claims that these 3 additional rows provide the same cooling efficiency with the stock 5/8 inch core width as a radiator with the stock number of vertical rows (34) with a 1 inch core width. This new radiator did help the problem, but I would still rather have both fans running on the high speed setting. That would ameliorate it completely I think. Have you guys with stock early 2000s GTPs observed the way the fans work? Thanks, Andy
  6. Those of you with aftermarket tips and stock mufflers, please post pictures. Looking at my TGP it looks like I only have about 8-8.5'' of length from the tip to the stock muffler - I'm not seeing too much that will fit in that same space, even if I modify the tips and cut off an inch or two. I generally prefer dual round outlet tips w/ rolled edges. If anyone happens to know of a short version of those, let me know. I want the tips to sit at the same place the factory ones do now rather than protrude farther(not a fan of that). On the off-chance I can't find something short enough to work as-is or with light modification, I might just keep the stock tips. I like the way they look, but kinda want something different at the same time.
  7. Hello, I own a 95 Cutlass Supreme convertible in excellent shape but I do want to replace one interior part but I have no idea what it is called. Please see the image I copied below. The arrow indicates the part I want to replaced. What is it called and/or the part number? I've tried interior post, post cover, column, column cover but no luck. On in my car (black interior) in its center, it has puckered causing about a 2 inch bump... Any info is appreciated. Thanks everyone
  8. Happy to join this community, hope you all are doing well. My likes are... Lumina's that don't break down , Ice Cream that melts, and people that still giggle at there own farts. My dislikes are... the word dislike , bolts you cant reach, and that guy at the tire shop who laughed when I asked if they had any 17-18 inch wheels for a Lumina. Been a car guy all my life , started out real young taking them apart and not knowing how to put them back together.....you know now that I think about it... i still have that same .....never mind that. "Hey honey " (what) "If i write something real stupid how do I erase it?" (.......) "Oh never mind its right there next to the Submit New Thread button"
  9. I have a 2000 Grand Prix GT, and being the clever individual that I am i decided to put a tiny screw in one of those half inch holes under both ends of the balancer shaft. Since the screw is now keeping the cam company, i thought this might be the right section to post a thread. I've spent about 4 hours of quality time with my car and a tiny magnet on a stick, and the screw is still in there. Shop says 1000+ most likely, so I was hoping someone might know how i could un-screw myself?
  10. It's a 1993 cutlass supreme convertible with the auto climate controls. Now, for the story... When heat is set to 90 the passenger side blows hot and driver side luke warm. The actuators are all working properly. The climate control has no error codes and tested good. The following items are new: New water pump, Thermostat, radiator, and heater core. Knowing that all these items were new, I started looking closer at the heater box. I removed the both lower underdash panels, as well as, the lower part of the dash where the ash tray is. I then removed the lower heater box cover exposing the heat core and bottom blend door. I started checking the actuators one at a time verifying that they are work properly. The last thing I checked for was the operation of the blend door from heat to cold. This is where things get interesting. When I start adjusting the temp from 90 to 60 the blend door opens and closes. The problem is that when I set it to 90, the blend door comes down and instead of closing completely flush against the 3 x 8 opening, the blend door closes on the passenger side but closes at an angle and the drivers side has a one inch gap. Therefore, the luke warm air on the drivers side and hot on the passenger. So the question is, has anyone ever run into this problem? is the door broken or can something be bent or is something installed improperly? I know the answer is anyone of these but I wanna know if anyone has ever run into this problem before.
  11. I have a 1993 Cutlass Supreme convertible with the 3.4 DOHC engine. I change oil religiously every 3,000 miles. Upon a cold start, the oil pressure needle is about a 1/4 inch above the second hash mark. When I say second hash mark. If you could pretend that the oil gauge was the fuel gauge it would show a quarter inch more than a quarter tank left upon startup and stays on the quarter mark when idling hot. I know its acceptable for these engines to have 15psi when idling hot. Well, my question is, the gauge is not numbered so you really don't know the true oil pressure unless you put a mechanical gauge on it. Does anyone have an idea of how much oil pressure is when its at the quarter mark?
  12. Long story short. I have a 96 se coupe. Driver door and fender were hit. I bought replacement fender and door. Installed both. Door does not shut tight. Fits good as far as up and down, but the back side of the door protrudes from the body about 1/4 inch, front of the door seems to line up with the fender just fine. When the door is shut I can push it in about that 1/4 inch. I am guessing the hinges can be shimmed etc.. in some way to solve this problem. Just looking for any help in what I need to do for an adjustment to make the door shut properly/completely. Thanks.
  13. Engine Diagonal Brace: one of the two metal bars that are attached to the strut tower with one longer bolt (actually just outside it) and to the front of the engine compartment with two smaller bolts. These are the braces that must be removed to access the coolant overflow tank on one side and the washer fluid reservoir and battery on the other side. So I guess I removed and reinstalled the engine diagonal brace one two many times because one of the smaller bolts on the front of the engine compartment just keeps spinning and never gets snug. The threads on the bolt are fine, but most of the threads in the hole came out with the bolt. The damaged threads are M9x1.25. So what to do? (1)I have a tap and die set, but I've never done this sort of work before. Will I get good threads if I jump up to the next largest size (M10x1.25)? (2)Can I use a helicoil? I am hesitant because the bolt only threads through metal that is about 3/8" thick, but the bolt is at least an inch long. I thought helicoils need to bottom out in the hole. Thanks for any help.
  14. Basically I know to get T-50 stainless staples, but what size staples do I need? 1/4 and 1/8 inch staples? Does the size really matter?
  15. Hey Guys! What' up? Just joined the forum today but it gonna take me a few days to get me page/garage filled up. Im the second owner of my 2003 Monte Carlo SS which i purchased from a long time family friend a little over a year ago. I bought it with 116K on the clock and it needed some TLC. It now has 137K and still ticking. Have a few small mods to it ie: Double Din Radio, 12' infinity sub in custom fit box, 5% tint, painted factory wheels, blacked out badges, Ram Air Intake, 180 Thermo, Thrush Turbo Muffs w/ 2.5 inch chrome tips. Here a few pic of her. The day i brought it home. Monte Carlo meet @ High Point State Park, NJ fall of 2013 Cruising to the Park. Photo Cred: Montess2K Having fun in the snow!
  16. I'm slowly getting back to my Cutlass L67 swap, I've got one (million) thing(s) holding me up... All of the guides say to use an L36 high pressure power steering line, and that it should be installed before the engine because it's difficult to do it after. And that's as much detail as any of them go into about it and don't mention it ever again. I was originally going to make my own, or have one made from a place I know where I can get a good price on SS-braided lines, but not knowing the actual shape and routing I will need in the end makes that very difficult to do from the start. Then I decided I was just going to finish the swap cheaply, and maybe in the future I'll do a proper rebuild with custom parts and mods but for now I just want to get it running. So in looking for that hose, I found that nearly every L36-equipped car I've looked at has a slightly different hose shape and routing. So which one do I need? I did find one thread where it was said that they used a Z34 hose (I believe they specified 1998), but looking up that hose on RockAuto returned two different types, one 5 foot long hose and one 33 inch hose using different routings. I'm not sure which one I need, or maybe both of them will fit, or maybe any L36 hose will fit. I've got a new 2.25-turn rack installed and that hose is the next step that I'd like to get sorted out before dropping in the engine (or moving on to the next question). Anybody have more specifics on exactly which hose(s) will fit? Thanks!
  17. I had the need to work against the firewall today and removed the engine strut mounts (Dog Bones) on the 90 Lumina. The struts fell apart, so I picked up a new set. (the rubber fell out of the struts) Upon re-assembly, I noticed that the mounts are out of alignment. Picture bolting the strut to the frame, then bringing the engine side of the strut up to the engine, but the engine mount does not align with the strut. It's as if the engine needs to be moved to the right (driver-side) by about 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch in order for the strut to drop into the mount. I have a feeling the new struts will suffer if installed with the alignment issue. Anyone know of a fix for this? Having not had to remove the engine struts since I had the transmission rebuilt, I wonder if the engine had been moved, thus throwing the struts out of alignment. Thanks for any help or suggestions!
  18. Alright then guys, my name is Dustin and this is my 95 GTP, Nikki. Torch red and cross lace. Kenwood blue tooth and 3 10 inch subs. A few mods, nothing fancy until this summer when we finally get that L67! I've had her for about five years now and probably the only guy in Texas who actually likes this car haha.
  19. Hey guys, I've been taking leaps and bounds ahead with my car, so I'm starting to plan a pulley drop now. I'm kind of up in the air with which size though. I have Gen V supercharger, so from what I've ready the upgrade of going from a Gen III to a Gen V is like a 0.2 inch pulley drop in itself. For example: Gen III w\3.6 inch pulley=Gen V w\3.8 inch pulley, Gen III w\3.2-Gen V w\3.2, etc. When I ran an HAI, stock exhaust, and stock tune, I very rarely had 1 degree of knock retard. I now have SD headers, the same HAI, and still have a stock tune and since installing the header I haven't seen any Kr at all. I will be getting a tune before the pulley drop, I'm not too sure who to go with and there is NO ONE even remotely local to tune it in the car. So, I'll have to with a canned tune of some sorts...Anyone recommend a box tune? Also, I'm up in the air on which pulley I should go with, a 3.4, 3.5, or 3.6? I'm wondering if I could get away with a 3.4 without any intercooler. Thanks guys!
  20. I'm new here so I'm not sure if this has been asked before or not, but I have a 95 Lumina LS with 5 1/4 inch front door speakers and was wondering if I would be able to install 6 1/4 or 6 1/2 inch speakers without much trouble. Anybody know?
  21. Okay starting this post to be more on the point of suspension issues with the w body regals and our options on what to upgrade. Please school me if needed and i do need some. I have in boxs kyb gr2 struts. Should i buy new stock springs? If i do go with lowering springs are the zzp ones a good option? I am only looking for the 1inch drop they advertise. Let me know what you think. I may be re-using the old springs depending on what you guys say.
  22. So i ordered some kyb gr2 struts from zzp and i am going to re -use my springs. The rear sags a little and currently has a half inch of clearance. I have read there is a slight stock rear sag but the front has about two inches. When i redo the struts will it all level out and if not how do lower the front to level it to the back? Can i just get a diff sway bar??
  23. I'm interested in putting some 16 inch rims off a Gen 3 regal GS on my Gen 1 regal custom. It looks like the bolt pattern is the same, I'm just concerned about the clearance of the wider tires.
  24. Hello, I am having a suspension issue with my 2002 Chevy Impala with 139,000 miles. When I turn around in a circle it appears like I have a flat tire or the car is rolling up and down. This happens both on the left and right turns. (It does not have to be all the way to the right or left for it to happen). Not really hearing anything like clicking or any groaning. Could it be the front wheel bearings need replacing? I jacked the car up and held both front tires at 12 oclock and 6 oclock and pushed in and out and there was a little play probably only 1/8 inch on both sides when I did it. I checked the sway bar and it does not seem cracked. The boots on the CV joints appear ok. Any other ideas on what it could be? Thanks
  25. What would be the best way to restore my 97 Cutlass Supreme SL 16 aluminum rims? They need some serious help! I it bought like this and I don't know much about restoration, any tips would help.
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