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Found 342 results

  1. So after some fidgeting around I finally found the perfect combo to get the rear plugs out. This can be done without removing anythings, without rocking the engine, without cutting the firewall lip. I did all three of my rear plugs in under 15 minutes, and the hardest part was just getting the wires back in because of the goofy plastic tubey thingy that they go in. Here's what you'll need: 1/2" socket wrench 1/2" 5" extension 1/2" to 3/8" socket adaptor 3/8" universal joint 3/8" 3" extension 3/8" extension connected to your spark plug socket Here's what you do: First remove the plug wire. You may have to use a little bit of force and some twisting and wiggling, but it can be done. With the socket and first extension already connected, lower it into the plug hole enough so that you can still hold it with one hand (and not drop it in). Once you have it down far enough for the second 3" extension to be down past the lip, pop it on to the first extension. Drop it a little further so you can get the U joint on. At this point you should be able to get the socket most of the way down onto the plug. You should be able to now pop the adaptor on, and then the 5" extension. Once you do this, it's pretty self explanatory. You'll have to loosen the plug and then reverse the process (removing each section), but then you should have your plug out, and installation of the new plug is reverse. Again, took me all of 15 minutes to do all three, and half that time was probably fighting to get the wires back on
  2. Well, just a few minutes ago, my brother and I arrived home. I had just picked him up from work. I turned to back into the parking area across the street from my house. I put the car in reverse and began turning back in the other direction to straighten the car out. The steering wheel got very stiff, it felt as if I lost all power assist. The steering didn't act up before this. It made no moaning or grinding noises when this happened. I get the car parked and pop the hood. Reservoir is full, there is no puddle underneath the path of the car. I start it back up and turn the wheel back and fourth while my brother watches the steering pump. Wheel is equally stiff the whole time. He said the pulley is turning and there's no fluid shooting out. So does anyone know what the issue might be? The only problem I've had with the steering previously was in the winter, the pump moaned and squealed like a banshee until it warmed up. It never was abnormally stiff or losing any fluid whatsoever. Not long before it got cold, I drained the fluid out of the reservoir and replaced it with Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak, hoping that its conditioning properties would prevent any headaches in the near future.
  3. I had been using a cassette adapter for my MP3 player like everyone else, but since it sounded so awful I wired it straight into the head. Still needed to have a cassette in there so that it would switch inputs, but then it started making this constant clicking sound and won't reverse or eject. Is there a way to get this thing out and make the clicking stop?
  4. It happens a couple minutes after starting, if I go in reverse or drive sometimes it'll stall out with out my foot on the gas. I changed plugs, wires, map sensor egr valve gasket, cleaned throttle body iac and egr, fuel pressure was normal, cant find vacuum leaks. Does anybody have an idea or have had this problem before? map sensor reads bad but I replaced it and tested the new one, code 33 is coming up, I used a multi meter at the plug and its getting 5 volts. Here's a video.
  5. 3rd or 4th annual, I've lost track. For the Columbus meet (date of June 26th - 28th) We're bringing it back regardless. For those unaware, Ruffles All-Dressed chips are awesome chips that are only available in Canada. We'll be selling bags for $5 each with 100% of the monies going to maintenance and upkeep of the forum, we'll be bringing 20 bags so reverse on this thread $5 X 20 bags = $100 for the club. This year Matt (Got2BGM) has been kind enough to buy half of the allotment and I'm buying the other half (I would recommend cornering me and getting chips from me as soon as I get there as his could be counterfit Chinese chips) Thanks to all who purchased in the past, and thanks again to Luke for all he does, looking forward to seeing him at the meet. List name and reservations below in the format: 1.) PsychoMatt (2 bags) 2.) Nunzi (1 bag) 3.) Luke (3 bags) =============== Total 6 bags And then keep on adding.
  6. just got a decent condition 1988 regal custom. 90k miles no rot minor rust when it's cold or first started it stalls when you hit the gas at idle. it will idle smooth and no CEL. when you go to accelerate it bogs and stalls or almost stalls then grabs. tried disconnecting MAF but it got worse and bucked during the driving range too. once it's warmed up after 5-10 minutes driving off idle is a very small hesitation but drives nice. oddly if I shut it off hot and restart it seems to reset the stall timer and you have to drive it a few minutes before it's ok again I got it for $400 and don't want to have a money pit.I have 4 other cars but i wanted a comfortable automatic American car
  7. ok so, im not finding what i need, but i know this has prolly been an on-going topic on here. but ive been away from here for a while so i feel like a newb again. heres the situation, maybe someone can direct me to a thread or help me in general. i went to start my car earlier (2002 chevy impala with 127k miles on it) it stalled out for what ever reason, im not sure myself. it didnt feel like it fully started however, like it was barely running and i threw it in reverse being hasty and it died. well. then the ol ignition felt the need to stick in the acc spot so my power was stuck on and couldnt start the car. well after fighting with it i found it didnt fully go into park (sigh) but i got it all figured out and working, but now the car just wont start. the key fights me more than ever but its not even kicking the starter on (at least im not hearing anything coming from it when i had my girlfriend turn the key for me while i listened to what was going on) i know we have a recall on them, and i can get it swapped for a new one. but i kind of need to get it to where i can drive it there due to funds and how far away the dealership that can do the recall repair is. any advice anyone can give me? from the sounds of the things ive had going on with electronics, it sounds like it could possibly be the BCM. any thoughts on that as well? thanks in advance guys. any help is appreciated.
  8. My sister has a 1994 Olds Cutlass 3.1. The transmission will not go into reverse or shift out of first gear. Checked the trans fluid. Level is fine at op temp. Color is brown.
  9. Alright, I'm stumped. The Lumina has been making a clunking noise when I shift into reverse. Well, not when I shift, but once I start to move after shifting. It only does it after I shift into reverse, and I can get it to do with with my foot on the brake and pressing the accelerator as well. It drives fine, shifts fine and smooth, and makes no noise whatsoever when shifting as I'm driving. It's only one clunk after it starts to move in gear. The motor mount is only a couple years old, the CV axle was just replaced, as was the trans mount. The dog bone mounts are original, but the noise seems to be coming from the trans itself. You can tell the noise is coming from the drivers side. Anyone have any other ideas or things I should look for?
  10. Check Engine light came on, and it read a P1870. I haven't noticed any transmission issues at all. However, it has stalled once right after starting and putting it in reverse...then another time it took a good 10 seconds before starting. Was curious if maybe they're related? Perhaps a neutral safety switch? I think I read that sometimes that will cause a P1870. Has anybody else experienced this? Car runs fantastic otherwise, and aside from those two times starts just fine, and always shifts smoothly. 125k miles.. thanks!!
  11. Ok, I've had a noise coming from the front of my cutlass for a while and now it seems to be getting worse. It started off sounding like a rattle when going around a right hand corner at 25 mph on the right front side. Now that sound is coming from the left side now along with vibration coming through the floor. It's really bad when going in reverse and turning the wheels either way. I've jacked up the front end and checked wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods, and the struts, basically performing a safety inspection on th front end. I have also checked the cv axles and they do have vertical play on both sides. Could this be the noise source? It seems ok at highway speeds (65-70 mph) but seems more intense at 55mph or slower. It does make a pop sound when going from reverse to drive if that helps out any. I know it needs motor/trans mounts also, just haven't had the motivation to replace them yet. Sorry for being so long winded, but I hope it's enough info to possibly pinpoint my noise source.
  12. I've found a housing that has the letters Chevrolet across instead of the painted on bowtie. Do you think it would look better on my 1st gen lumina than my peeling painted on bowtie housing? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
  13. im gonna need to go buy a new set of etorx but i wanted to know if anyone knew the size of them badboys?
  14. Im bored so im making a how to thread Why a gen 2 rack you ask, several reasons: -availability, newest jy 1st gen racks are 14 yrs old and newest gen 2s are a couple wks old -ratio, in my car i used a 2001 regal rack 13.2:1 ratio=responsive as shit if you wanna slow it down gps use a 17:1 -just sounds kool What about the magnasteer wont it be hard to steer with it not connected? -thats only on 97 and earlier magnasteer racks on my 01 rack i kinked the hose a little to firm it up a bit Parts youll need -gen 2 rack of your choice 99-current -gen 1 outer tie rod ends -gen 2 ps lines -power steering fluid (duh lol) Tools -jackstands -jack -breaker bar -flare wrenches -ratchets -tape measure -combination wrenches -prybar First step -get the car on jackstands and place a jack under the subframe -remove the REAR subframe bolts, should be 18 or 19 mm Step 2 -lower the subframe until you can see the steering u-joint, usually has a boot so youll have to pull that back use an 11mm wrench to remove the bolt that holds the joint to the rack -pry off the joint then lower the subframe as much as you can without binding Step 2 -remove ps lines with flare wrenches Step 3 -unbolt tie rod ends and remove from spindle -remove rack to subframe bolts Step 4 -remove rack from car Step 5 -staighten the ends of your old rack -measure center to center of your original rod ends -put gen 1 ends on your new rack as close to the measurement from your old rack as possible Step 5 -bolt rack and rod ends to subframe and spindles Step 6 -install gen 2 ps lines The rest of the reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly bleed the ps lines and have it aligned as soon as possible good luck
  15. Had to make another hour-long drive after getting home from the meet, and in the middle of it, I think my shift select cable decided to take a dump. All other gears work but there seems to be a ton of horizontal play and I have to really slam it to to the left to get it into first and second. Third and fourth are fine. Anyone had this happen and it didn't involve replacing the cable?
  16. Well when I put in drive or any gear it starts in 2 gear. Of course reverse works. But only 2, 3, sometimes 4th will work when shifter in 3rd or D.but I got no 1st gear other gears seem to shift smooth 4th gear kinda Boggs into gear when I'm cruising at 40.
  17. Well when I put in drive or any gear it starts in 2 gear. Of course reverse works. But only 2, 3, sometimes 4th will work when shifter in 3rd or D.
  18. When I start up my 93 Cutlass Convertible, I heard a Loud clank/Clunk noise every 2 to 3 seconds. It's not a rapid noise, and it only does this while in park. I can reverse smoothly, the car drives fast & smooth on the road and the transmission Shifts with no issues and never misses. Sound comes from under the vehicle and I can feel it sort of under the drivers seat. Engine is quiet and smooth so I know it isn't that. Any Ideas what this could be?
  19. Have a 1991 Pontiac Sunbird LE 3.1 V6 with an analog display speedometer that is no longer operational. Have verified the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and it is outputting a very clean sine wave as input to the Engine Control Module (ECM). The ECM is outputting a very clean square wave to the electronic speedometer cluster as input to the speedometer PCB board. So I am in the process or reverse engineering the PCB board which is not a problem with the one exception being the ICs on the board. Have not been able to find the datasheets for the ICs on the PCB board and was hoping someone on this site may be able to provide information on the ICs or point in the right direction to find the information. Attached is a picture of the electronic speedometer PCB board and the ICs I am trying to identify are as follows: IC1: 9907A CS9101J IC2: 1681B CS9048J RA1: D-1 Thanks,
  20. stew

    quick question

    91 Lumina base, reverse quit working a month ago, went to drive it to work Friday and started moving and it just stopped going, will not even attempt to go into gear. 3 speed auto. take it that it is dead and would need either a rebuild or replacement? Thanks!
  21. I had a strange thing happen today, hoping someone knows what happened. I got my car out for the 1st time today drove 25 miles or so, parked for 1/2 hour. I got in, started it, when I put the shift in Reverse, no go, tried to go forward, same thing, it felt like the shift linkage was disconnected. I shut it off, then restarted it and everything was fine. Drove to a store parked, 20 min. came out and it worked fine and I drove home, Like nothing happened. It seems to be fine. Any ideas?.. Thanks for any input. Redpine '94 Cutlass, 3.4, 80,000 miles
  22. I have a 1999 Grand Prix GTP. Yesterday I drove an hour on the freeway upon getting home my car did not want to go in the drive way, it was like i was stuck in neutral. I went through the gears and reverse worked along with 2 and 1 but no D or 3. There where no signs of anything wrong. no rough or hard shifting or no shuttering what so ever and my fluid is not dark nor does it smell burned. Does anyone have any idea what went wrong or what may be broken ?...
  23. On my way to work this morning had a slightly more than gentle encounter with a Ford truck and it messed the front passenger side corner up some. Plus the hood at that corner was damaged along with the front bumper and drivers front panel is damaged from the past. So ive decided to just replace everything that can be taken off vs attempting body work(saving that for damage in the back on the drivers side) My question is are there any good ways or tips for getting the all the lines right and body pieces fit? I figured the hood first then the front bumper then side 1\4 panels and installation is reverse. Im hoping i can find one in good shape the same color as mine but as long as i dont have to mix to many colors i can live with it til i can get the entire car repainted.
  24. Does anyone know the wiring pinout for the gls mirror w/maplights, I bought one off ebay it has a 16 pin connector......PLEASE HELP... Thank you This is what I know 1-not used 2 - Microphone (if the mirror is equipped with it) 3 - "Passenger Air Bag on" notification (if mirror is equipped with that display) 4. - "Passenger Air Bag off" notification (if mirror is equipped with that display) 5 - auto day/night signal, which comes from the LH outside rearview mirror 6 - Temp probe connection ( if mirror is equipped with display) 7 - Temp probe connection (if mirror is equipped with display) 8 - Ground 9 - Reverse Dim Inhibit signal so the mirror will not dim when the vehicle is in reverse, another says it's a supply voltage from a back-up supply (if 12v is applied to this pin, the mirror will not dim ) 10 - Microphone (if mirror is equipped) 11- keypad signal (out) for On-star (pressing any button puts out a 5v multiplexed signal on this pin, - 12 - keypad supply (5v) voltage (in) for the buttons 13 - ignition voltage (12v -main power IN to the mirror) 14 - keypad green LED signal 15 - keypad red LED signal 16 - auto day/night signal return line to the RH outside mirror for day/night signal What I want to know is if there is a connection for maplights without ignition turned on?
  25. Hi. 1996 Lumina 6 cyl auto. Problem started a few weeks ago. Hard to find reverse. I had to go through all the gears and it would go into reverse eventually if I went down a hair from park. Now it takes 5 to 10 minutes to get it into any gear. In neutral, I can rev the motor. I reverse or any forward gear, I can feel the motor drag and the car moves in the proper direction about 1/2 inch and stops dead like it is in park. Almost like it is in reverse and forward at the same time. Once it goes into gear, I can drive the car all day with correct shifting, no noises or slipping. Local trans shop said I need a new trans. The fact that they took 2 minutes to come up with that statement and that it shifts and operates perfect once it goes into gear make me wonder if it is a popular problem and if it is an easy fix. Thanks.....Jim
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