TurboKid Posted August 18, 2005 Report Share Posted August 18, 2005 As said in my posting before. My car is smoking like crazy at idle. This happens about 2 minutes after its been running and then disapears when I accelerate hard and then never comes back. Now, I've been told that it could be A: my turbo shaft seal B: my turbo compressor seal C: my oil return line It's not a cracked head or coolant leakage, my levels are perfect and it doesn't smell like coolant, trust me I have experience with burning coolant,lol. My question is, what happens to the inside of the oil return line? If it doesn' t leak I don't understand what could happen to the inside of it. Also, does anyone know where I could get a replacement or do you guys just use high temp hydraulic hose?? 2nd question, Has anyone rebuilt there own turbo? Is it hard to do or worth doing yourself?? I have about 130K on my engine now, and she's been running hard at 14psi, but this is my first major problem. I raced my buddies last night, one has an SHO, and the Other had a SC 5.0. I smoked them, but in the end I looked like the knob when my car was litteraly smoking like a chimney. They laughed at me, but I kept reminding them who just got smoked by a sunbird, lol I really need to get this fixed!! All thoughts would be appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skalor Posted August 18, 2005 Report Share Posted August 18, 2005 I would start with the oil return line which is the easier of the two to replace. They go bad because the inside of the tubing comes apart and blocks flow. Anyways, if that doesn't work then come back and I'll tell you how to change the turbine seal if you want to do it yourself. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted August 18, 2005 Report Share Posted August 18, 2005 Why did you create a whole new thread for the same problem? Next time, just bump the old one. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboKid Posted August 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2005 Is it the compressor seal you changed or the shaft seal? Sorry, for reposting I just wanted an answer ASAP!!! :oops: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skalor Posted August 19, 2005 Report Share Posted August 19, 2005 I changed the turbine shaft seal. I used the one in the first link below, but the second link is what the stock one looks like. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T2-T25-T28-Turbo-Stagger-Gap-Turbine-Shaft-Seal_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQitemZ7993980505QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T2-T25-T28-Turbo-Turbine-Shaft-Seal_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQitemZ7993602920QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Posted August 19, 2005 Report Share Posted August 19, 2005 $6.50 for shipping a piece of metal smaller than a penny, WTF I am new to turbos and am wondering where that piece goes, can you point it out to me. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted August 19, 2005 Report Share Posted August 19, 2005 i believe that is what my turbo needs. mine will start smoking if it sits at idle a few minutes, but the smoke goes away as soon as i drive it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted August 19, 2005 Report Share Posted August 19, 2005 i have that problem too, lol, its just a rare occasion thing tho, like once in a blue moon it does it, how do you change them, is it hard? im sure a ton of LG5 guys with the stock turbo need this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skalor Posted August 19, 2005 Report Share Posted August 19, 2005 It actually pretty easy to change once you have the turbo out. All you have to do remove the wastegate actuator rod. Then remove the turbine housing via 4 bolts and maybe a mallet to tap it off the center section. Then remove the nut on the compressor housing with an impact wrench, but be careful because it's reverse threaded. Then the turbine wheel/shaft should be able to pull out of the center section. The seal itself is on the shaft so just replace it and put it back together. Now, I would try to keep everything clean as you don't want to get dirt in the center section. I also cleaned off all of the carbon on the turbine side of the center section. There a plate that comes off after you pull the turbine wheel/shaft out and it's usually caked on pretty good. I never took the compressor housing off so the compressor wheel just stays trapped in the housing. That's pretty much it except that you have to make sure the turbo is clocked right when you put it back in. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skalor Posted August 19, 2005 Report Share Posted August 19, 2005 $6.50 for shipping a piece of metal smaller than a penny, WTF I am new to turbos and am wondering where that piece goes, can you point it out to me. Thanks It goes on the shaft to seal the turbine housing so oil doesn't leak out. Usually they just get coaked with burnt oil and start leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 19, 2005 Report Share Posted August 19, 2005 Skalor, have you seen any of the replacement fan blades or cartridge. something ate up the blades on mine. I guess a pebble got in there or something .I don't know what did it, it was off my parts car and I want to rebuild it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skalor Posted August 20, 2005 Report Share Posted August 20, 2005 I was going to buy a GT28 turbine wheel/shaft from ATPturbo.com for $150 but I was unsure if it would interchange with my stock one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted August 20, 2005 Report Share Posted August 20, 2005 I was going to buy a GT28 turbine wheel/shaft from ATPturbo.com for $150 but I was unsure if it would interchange with my stock one. Yea since its a larger wheel you have to have a machine to hone out the compressor housing for it to fit/not run into the housing setup for the smaller T25 wheel, and fit with tight tolerances, not easy for the diy'r. Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skalor Posted August 20, 2005 Report Share Posted August 20, 2005 Actually, where I work we have 2 mills, 2 lathes, and a CNC so I'm sure I could get it done. In fact I already bored my housing out a little(.055") around the turbine wheel to see if it would effect pressure in the exhaust manifold without effecting the spooling. Anyways, I wasn't worried about boring it out to fit the wheels. I was more worried about the shaft diameter being different. I've still been thinking about it so I have to call the guy up and ask him to measure the shaft diameter. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted August 20, 2005 Report Share Posted August 20, 2005 Actually, where I work we have 2 mills, 2 lathes, and a CNC so I'm sure I could get it done. In fact I already bored my housing out a little(.055") around the turbine wheel to see if it would effect pressure in the exhaust manifold without effecting the spooling. Anyways, I wasn't worried about boring it out to fit the wheels. I was more worried about the shaft diameter being different. I've still been thinking about it so I have to call the guy up and ask him to measure the shaft diameter. 8) That certainly is not normally the case for most people :shock: , nice for you to have access to all this equipment 8). There are many T25 owners (other than the TGP/TSTE owners) that have done the T28 even T3 into a T25 center section, did not hear of there being a need to machine out the shaft hole or swapping to a new center section, but you don’t want to assume so good idea with check first before you spend the cash 8) . Yea I tried that honing out the turbine exducer hole but did not try much (can’t add it back in :shock: ) but did not get as much results I wanted yet, and no chance to keep going back to see just how far you can go taking a little more away till backpressure looks good(?) and spool is not an problem. Did you notice any change/run a before and after backpressure reading?? Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skalor Posted August 21, 2005 Report Share Posted August 21, 2005 The reason I was unsure if it would fit or not was due to the fact that the NS111 GT28 turbine wheel is only available in dual BB center section. I didn't know if they had a bigger diameter shaft to deal with the added speed at which they can spin. I haven't measure the backpressure since I bored it out, but I did measure it before so I'll just have to get around to doing that one day. The NS111 GT28 turbine wheel is a 9 blade wheel compared to our 11 blade wheel and it's supposed to flow a lot more air. Have you tried a 9 blade turbine wheel in our turbo?? I think that if I were to get the GT28 .86 A/R turbine housing and this wheel that it should help alot with the excessive backpressure...or at least it should. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted August 21, 2005 Report Share Posted August 21, 2005 The turbine wheel I have been using has 9 blades as I recall, been a while since I had these in my hand, been on the cars for a while but I do remember there were less blades and some mods to them (I have a pile of notes, always have notes on everything done and thought and researched). As I recall hearing from a reputable turbo performance shop is that the GT stuff won’t work with ours, bigger shaft like you said and maybe longer/wider CRHA so no dice, looked into this a while ago, so many dead ends, and I was using that frustration to find some relief somewhere, I was more motivated the more I was challenged! Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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