Guest hambone2 Posted December 31, 2002 Report Share Posted December 31, 2002 has anyone else had problems with the turn signal switch on the supreme ? a few years ago it stopped working and after a bit of 'joeing' around i was able to determine that the hinge on the switch on the inside of the steering column had worn to the point where contact was no longer being made ( this also effected my brake lights ). i managed to jury-rig a non-conductive spacer on the opposite side of the hinge to allow contact to be made but this solution wears out every year... i know i could just replace the switch but has anyone come up with a different solution ? also, does anyone know what adhesive can be used to hold down a lifting dash ? right where the vent. is at the top of the dash ( under the front window so it is hard to clamp ) it is lifting ( around two inches ). i have tried rubber cemment and construction glue ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmo1234 Posted December 31, 2002 Report Share Posted December 31, 2002 I used this stuff called Liquid Nails, and the dash has stayed glued for the last month in this hot Florida sun (even in the middle of Dec, still hot as fruck, got up to 78F today) Anyways I had to take out the top of the dash on my Euro (pretty easy only a couple of screws and clips) to get to the edge near the window were it was peeling and around the defrost vent. Then it was easy to clamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted January 1, 2003 Report Share Posted January 1, 2003 My turn signal switch on my Grand Prix went out on me a year ago, to the point where smoke would come out of the steering column!! Anyway, I don't think there is any way around getting a new one. I just broke down and bought a new switch, it was 60 or 70 dollars, way too much if you ask me, anyway that is what I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismellrealbad Posted January 1, 2003 Report Share Posted January 1, 2003 my switch cost $110 fucking dollars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve94CutlassConver. Posted January 1, 2003 Report Share Posted January 1, 2003 I know that several recalls on cutlass turn signal / wiper systems have been issued . Mine is a 94 and having trouble with wipers / cruise / blinkers / brake lights , seems everything in the turn lever "pod" is screwing up , dealer wanted 600 bucks to fix , I've got it half way apart and found my wiper problem ....... 1 wire off the connector ( which was the recall on the wipers ) I' m in contact with the Atlanta district office now trying to get this fixed under the recall my "dealer" knew nothing about . Good luck. STeve 94nowipersconvert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NORBI Posted January 1, 2003 Report Share Posted January 1, 2003 I think thats one of those things that go bad on all w-bodys couple times in a car's liftime. I just changed my 3rd one.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismellrealbad Posted January 1, 2003 Report Share Posted January 1, 2003 kind of like those pesky alternators? in general is what i mean...not directed twards you norbi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NORBI Posted January 2, 2003 Report Share Posted January 2, 2003 Your alternator went bad? I had a same problem with them but i was getting them from junk yard so i just thought that i had a very bad luck with them but now that you just said that you have a problem too must be something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfox340 Posted January 2, 2003 Report Share Posted January 2, 2003 Ismellrealbad + Robby, You paid WAY too much... for me, $5 for the switch at a junkyard... but then again it had the same installation of my parents 1988 Chevrolet Celebrity wagon. - RedFox340 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted January 2, 2003 Report Share Posted January 2, 2003 Hey, RedFox, I know I paid way too much, but I have had bad luck with junk yard parts (e.g. alternator). Yeah, I will agree, alternators seem to go bad a lot on W-bodies. Mine went bad, so I got one from a junk yard, a used one, and 30 minutes after installing it, I heard it break while driving on the highway, so I had to buy a brand new one, needless to say, I was pissed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismellrealbad Posted January 2, 2003 Report Share Posted January 2, 2003 Your alternator went bad?I had a same problem with them but i was getting them from junk yard so i just thought that i had a very bad luck with them but now that you just said that you have a problem too must be something else. what i meant was when i baught the car from you, the alternator was bad, and when i said that it sounded like i was bitching about it but i wasnt at all. what i emant was how alternators seem to go on these car all the time....and like the turn signal switch those seem to go on all our cars too. Redfox: I paid the dealer too much, but in my opinion i had no choice. i refuse to get a part like that from out of the junkyard....for the time and frustration it took me to switch out that fucking thing, id rather have paid 110 for a brand spanking new one, then pay 5 bucks for one from a junkyard only to have that fucking thing break on me again in 3 months. it took me around 3 hours to switch that damn thing out. between snaking the wires down the coloumn, to splicing the ignition wires (witch for some reason run into the turn signal switch connector), to pulling the god damn wheel off (i dont have the correct puller for my wheel, so that was a bitch right there) it took all that time. im glad i wont have to do it for another 5-10 years BTW...does ANYONE have a steering wheel puller they'd like to sell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hambone Posted January 2, 2003 Report Share Posted January 2, 2003 thanks for the info.... i will try the liquid nails on the next warm day... i guess the switch is a weak spot for the vehicle... i do not enjoy the idea of spending three hours, not to mention the hassle, of switching out the switch. i guess i will just redo the hack i currently have... it works for a while ( around a year ) but then wears out and has to be redone... the good thing is it only takes about 1/2 hour to complete... Q: is that di-electric grease that is used on the horn ring ? i guess i have been lucky with the alternator... i only have had to have one installed and it was covered by the warranty... my current electrical problems are the power locks and drivers seat... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted January 3, 2003 Report Share Posted January 3, 2003 power locks and the drivers seat is on the same circuit if it helps any, you could check the fuse/breaker under the pass side dash. As for the switch, the only time I got one from the junkyard is one I found that was somewhat new with no wear, and it was free. Otherwise I would have bought new for $60ish. It took me at most 90 minutes to do it on my sisters car recently. If you have a steering wheel puller, a 7mm socket, a torx bit (T10 or T15) and a phillips screwdriver, it's easy to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismellrealbad Posted January 3, 2003 Report Share Posted January 3, 2003 power locks and the drivers seat is on the same circuit if it helps any, you could check the fuse/breaker under the pass side dash. As for the switch, the only time I got one from the junkyard is one I found that was somewhat new with no wear, and it was free. Otherwise I would have bought new for $60ish. It took me at most 90 minutes to do it on my sisters car recently. If you have a steering wheel puller, a 7mm socket, a torx bit (T10 or T15) and a phillips screwdriver, it's easy to do. The puller i lacked....the torx screws bolt down the switch to the column. i just used an allen wrench for that. those 7mm screws u need to undo to get under the dash to 1) remove the panel and 2)u have to unscrew that box under the dash to get the wires out. oh and you'll need an eyglass screwdriver or somthing really small to pull the 2 ignition wires out of old and new connector if u dont like splicing wires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted January 3, 2003 Report Share Posted January 3, 2003 The turn signal switch is an easy fix, I have never replaced mine although it has gone out 2-3 times in 8-yrs. I usually just remove the steering wheel and everything else necessary to get to the switch. Then remove the switch but leave its wiring in place as I don't remove it completely. After that I use a flathead screwdriver and pop it apart (don't lose the ball bearing or spring!). Once it's apart, I clean/polish the contacts on both sides. Then I bend out the bendy-contacts some more, grease them up, and snap the switch back together. This usually works for 2-3 years, but that's not that bad because brand new switches don't always last that long either. I had used liquid nails on my dash before, about 3-4 years ago I think. It has become brittle and hard and doesn't hold as good as it used to. I would either try clear liquid nails, or what I am going to try next is Permatex clear Adhesive Silicone. That stuff is SUPER STRONG when cured and stays pliable. I even used a THIN bead of it to hold both halves of the seatbelt buckles together, and that has lasted MANY years. I think the Permatex adhesive silicone might be the strongest, longest lasting adhesive I've ever experienced. Only problem is it doesn't have any adhesive qualities UNTIL cured so you'll need clamps to hold it together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hambone Posted January 3, 2003 Report Share Posted January 3, 2003 i have managed to remove the streering wheel several times without a puller, so things will be okay there. i just put my knees behind he wheel and with the nut flush ith the shaft hit it with a ball-peen. shock vibrations and back pressure loosen it up fairly good. then since the . i have dug into the column but the switch looked awfully hard to remove. for me the problem was a weak hinge on the switch. bending the contacts would not work. the only option was replacement or figuring a method to compensate for the sprung hinge....which is the option i chose... once again, anyone know what is the type of the grease to use on the horn ring thing ? i have checked all of the fuses ( usng electric continuity checks ) and am thinking it might be a bad ground problem. under the driver's seat there has always be a re-occurring 'white dust' build up. to me this usually signifies electric current issues... come summer i figure i will have to pull the seat and do a proper cleanup... maybe i will try the Permatex as well... my seat belt bukle broke about two years ago i think that might be a good solution, thanks ( bigest problem now is the -18 C temps brrrrrrrrrr usually hve to wait for around 0 and use electric heater in car to keep inside temps up as things cure... thanks to all who have offered suggestions et all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted January 3, 2003 Report Share Posted January 3, 2003 You really aren't supposed to hammer on the steering shaft in the column, it's built in such a way that it collapses and absorbs impact of the driver during a collision. By hammering it, it could damage it (this was a warning in the tech manual) but if you're doing it lightly then it shouldnt be a big deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hambone Posted January 3, 2003 Report Share Posted January 3, 2003 thanks for the tip, didn't know that! once i got it off first time i have never had trouble since as i push it on and rely on the nut ans c-clip to hold... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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