Jump to content

why do stock brakes suck?


brian89gp
 Share

Recommended Posts

Now there is an idea. Probably be able to remove the booster, screw on a mounting plate to the firewall plate, then bolt that on.

 

Anybody know or have a way to measure stock line pressure?

 

 

A pressure guage would be the best bet. I know machine shops have these for there machines, so I'm sure you can pick up a line pressure guage somewhere. I'll look around, see what I can find.

 

 

EDIT: I've looked. Theres really no brake line pressure guage available. If you have a little enginuity(sp?) i bet you can adapt something like this to fit in line: fuelgauge.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest TurboSedan

are there different master cylinders available for the W-bodies or are they all the same (besides ABS differences)? does anyone know the piston diameter in the W-body master cylinder?

 

for comparisons sake, i had to upgrade my Lebaron's stock 21mm master cylinder when i swapped the rear drums out for discs. i definately noticed a difference in pedal feel/effort when i swapped to the correct 7/8" master cylinder. i'm swapping in a 24mm master cylinder very soon...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can get the knuckle assembly out of a gen 2 gp, they have 11.25 rotors...

 

My car has 11.25s in the front.. I think his would too since it's a GTP.

 

Only REALY late year 95 models and up got the 11.25" fronts.

 

I got them on my 95! They're really not that much better than the earlier ones. I've added the rear discs from a 94GP with Powerslot rotors all around and Hawk HPS pads and the braking still isn't that great. Metallic pads seem to stop the best, but wear quicker, dust more, and squeal more. The HPS pads barely dust and work much better after repeated stops though.

 

Tim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can IMPROVE your breaking distance and time and break life by simply sliding the floor shifter to "N" when you try to stop. believe me the car has NO problem stoping from 100mph to 0 in nuetral

Brian's car is a 5spd... therefore I'm 99.9% sure he has had the car in neutral before when trying to stop. 8)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you tried BrakeBest copper metallics from O'Reilly? I think they work very well, but kick out terrible amounts of thick black dust and don't last long. I've been trying Wagner Severe Duty pads from O'Reilly too. I think they work pretty well also, but I'm not sure as I put them on the '88 and it wasn't my daily driver.

 

Also very important is to make sure your rear calipers are working like they should. Good rear brakes makes a big difference in overall stopping ability.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I havn't tried either of those pads. When I first put the PF pads on they were new on new rotors. Within 2 weeks the rotors were scorched and blue with heat discoloration. I didn't think that I drove that hard, but who knows.

 

I ran across some 4 piston Wilwood calipers for 1" rotors in Jegs for around $140 each. Its real damn tempting to fab up a bracket and see how those work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I havn't tried either of those pads. When I first put the PF pads on they were new on new rotors. Within 2 weeks the rotors were scorched and blue with heat discoloration. I didn't think that I drove that hard, but who knows.

 

Thank you. Glad I'm not the only one, the PF pads are way too agressive and aren't exactly a "problem solver".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...